vasu

A lot of users have wondered what the best product to use was to protect their car. Should they use a wax? What are these synthetic polymers they've heard about, are they right for you? Here is a FAQ to address questions that may arise when you consider the use of synthetic polymers and other car care products. A lot of people had questions with these products and this guide helps to answer them as well as possible. Lets just say that the information that went into this was found to be very useful and informative and I hope to do the same on this new TSX
board.

Let me start off by saying that the absolute best way to protect your car is not by using waxes but
to use a product called a synthetic polymer. The application is similar, but the product is easier
to work with. At the same time they also last longer, protect better, and provide UV protection that
no wax could ever provide. For these reasons it is essential to use a synthetic polymer on your car
if you wish to provide long lasting protection, color richness, and overall beauty. So here's how
I take care of my car. It's a process that requires the least amount of work while ensuring maximum
protection.

FAQ categories will be seperated into seperate posts.
--------------------------------------------
FAQ originally created 7/9/03
Updates:
7/9/03: Added question about clay technique
7/9/03: Added additional car wash technique
7/15/03: Added question about clay sticking
7/26/03: Added recomendation for Zymol Detail, detailing spray
--------------------------------------------
Got any more questions? Ask below

vasu

Personal Cleaning Process


Twice a year I do my hardcore detailing process. This is a 3 day process, and I'm lucky that I have a garage to do it in. I'll do this in June (right after spring finals) and in December (right after Fall finals). I'll use a weekend example, so friday saturday sunday.

Bi-Annual Detailing Processes[list=1][*]Wash car with Dawn Dishwashing Soap [*]Dry car with combination of The California Water Blade and Microfiber clothes . Both available at any Pep-Boys [*]Now that the paint is clean and dry, it's time to prep it. I use whatever clay bar I can find at Pep-Boys. Usually it's Mothers, there's also ClayMagic, Zaino also makes a great one from what I hear but cannot personally confirm. If I see an area of oxidation I use the FF Paint-Prep on it. It's also good at removing stubborn crap that might of gotten on the paint. [*]Friday at 5pm I'll apply the first coat of FF Polish (it's called a polish just because polymer confuses people). I'll let this sit on the car for 24 hours. [*]Saturday at around 5pm, I'll take it off. Since I'm slow and like to take breaks, I'll put the next coat on a little after 7 and be done by 8. [*]At 8am on Sunday I'll take that 2nd coat off and around 10am I'll put the 3rd coat on. I'll take this off that afternoon at 4pm. I'll spend a little extra time buffing with this last coat just to get a great shine. [*]I will then spend the next couple hours doing the same to my wheels (brake dust comes off easier from a protected wheel), headlights and tail lights. I don't do a 24 hour coat, maybe just a 1hr coat. [*]I use Stoner's Invisible Glass, and then RainX the windows and glass and mirrors. I also apply RainX Anti-Fog to the inside. [*]I use Finish First Interior Protectant with Lanolin on all the interior plastics and vinyls. I also use this on the plastic and rubber on the outside (the very bottom of the car , splash guards and any rubber strips and seals). [*]I will use Zymol Field Glaze detailing spray to get that extra bit of shine and get the "wet" carnuba look.[*]Lastly I run some Lysol spray through the air intake for the air conditioner at the base of the windshield, with the AC on. This helps to keep it free of bacteria, mildew, mold, spores, etc.[/list=1]

Regular Maintainence Schedule[list=1][*]Wash the car with the Finish First Wash and Conditioner [*]Dry with Water Blade/Microfiber[*]Spray on and buff to shine with Zymol Field Glaze quick detailing spray. [*]Wipe headlights/tail lights/windows and wheels clean. ( I just do a quick job) [/list=1]
I can do the maintainence part in about an hour, which isn't much time to spend every weekend or every other weekend to keep your car looking great.

So now that you know why you should use them and how I personally use them, here are answers to your most common questions about them:

vasu

Questions about Polymers

What is a synthetic polymer?
A synthetic polymer is an acrylic substance made from molecules that form plastics. Because it cures to the paint and forms an almost plastic like covering, it is very strong. Almost like layering the car with saran-wrap. Polymers differ from waxes in that they are not made from natural plant produced substances and are easier to apply and remove while providing better protection.

How much polymer do I use?
Not much is needed, an amount the size of a dime should cover a 2 square foot area. If you are concerned that this is not enough, do not use more, but instead apply another coat after removing the one you just put on. Not only will you end up using less, but it is less effort, and you'll get more uniform coverage.

What is layering?
Layering is a process is which you apply another coating of polymer on top of the one you already applied. Each subsequent layer can be applied for a shorter period of time, about half the time of the previous layer. The advantage is that you get more and more protection with each coating. You also get more and more shine with each application. For example do the first coat for 24 hours, then the 2nd coat for 12 hours, 3rd coat for 6 hours, etc.

It rained in between polymer coats, do I need to rewash?
Yes, even if the car looks clean there's a lot of stuff from the rain that is on the car. It might look clean, but it really isn't.

How well do polymers work with dark finishes?
The darker the finish on your car, the more you need to use a polymer protectant. Paint finishes such as black, tend to show blemishes more than lighter color cars. There for, it is more important to keep the paint looking good and being able to clean it with minimal effort, something you have to do often with black cars. Polymers allow for easy maintenance of a paint finish, so every time a blemish shows up on your black car, you'll be glad that it wont take you long to bring it back to looking great.

How can I get the same carnauba shine from a polymer?
Some polymer users will notice that the shine on their car is very mirror like. While some like this look, others find it to look a little lifeless and would prefer the wet look they got with their carnauba based waxes. There are two ways to achieve this. 1) After applying your coat(s) of polymer, apply a coat of carnauba wax on top. You aren't doing this for the protection as much as you are doing it for the look. Expect it to last for 2 weeks to a month at most before reverting to mirror like shine of the polymer. 2) Your other option is to use a quick detailer spray that uses plant oils. This will give you the same wet look as a wax, but will take less time and can be reapplied easily and more often. While it doesn't offer any protection, it doesn't really matter since you are doing it for looks.

How long do polymers last compared to waxes?
Depending on how many layers of polymer you put on and how well you let it bond for, you can expect coverage anywhere from 6 months to a full year. With a wax, depending on the climate, you can expect it to last, at most, for 2 months. 1 month is more realistic for uniform coverage.

I used a polymer but it didn't protect, why?
Lets say a carnauba wax is 3mm thick. It's very sticky and basically sticks to the paint. Think about smearing candle wax on something, it's a very sticky substance. But because it's a natural plant product (which can't be replenished and rebuilt from the plant), this also means that it gets dissolved quickly by rain and acids and bases. A polymer, comparatively, is only going to be 1mm thick (that's why when you do 3 coats of polymer, you start getting close to a carnauba shine, but you can't get the oily wet sheen). So while it's thinner, the polymer itself is stronger. But polymers are not a sticky substance like wax is. While the polymer itself is really strong (even at 1mm vs canbuba's 3mm), it can't do anything if it isn't on the car anymore. If a polymer can't bond to a paints surface (and it's a bonding process, not a sticking process like carnauba), it can't protect it well because it will literally come off of the car. If there's no polymer there to protect, it can't protect against bird poop. So if there is anything on the paint that has bonded (dust, sulfur, etc) and it hasn't been clayed/prepped first, OR if you don't let it adhere long enough, it can't chemically bond like it should, and thus will come off quickly. Polymers get their strength from bonding onto the purest paint surface possible and then never letting go (well for several months anyway). Waxes are kind of brutish in that they just rely on sheer thickness to protect your car. Polymers are thin yet hard, whereas carnauba's are thick yet (comparatively) soft. Without a really clean paint surface, and without proper bonding time (these chemical processes take time), the polymer wont be able to hold on that well.

Is it ok to use a polymer on glass and windshields?
Probably not. There is a UV coating either on or in the glass depending on who made it. Some will blend the UV coating into the glass while others apply it to the surface. Since polymers have some emulsification properties, there is a chance that putting a polymer could strip the glass of it's UV coating, if the coating is only on the surface and not blended in. It's probably best (and easier) to just use Rain-X.

vasu

Questions about Carnauba

Why do carnauba waxes have a different shine?
Carnauba based waxes use naturally occurring waxes and oils derived from plants. These oils will settle on the surface of the car and give it a wet look, similar to an oil slick.

How do you remove carnauba?
Unless you have a real hot date coming up, using a carnauba wax properly can be a lot of effort. You still need to let the first coat sit for 24 hours if that's all you plan to use, and after 24 hours a carnauba wax will dry really hard and be tough to remove. The hard way to remove carnauba is just to put your muscle into it and buff until it's shiny. The better way to do it is to sprinkle a little water onto the dried wax and then buff it off. This also helps to spread out the plant oils in the wax and give you a nice smooth, even, wet look.

Can you recommend a good carnauba wax?
The best wax is made by Zymol and their good carnaubas start at $50 and up. If you don't want to spend that much I recommend "Griots Garage Best of Show Wax". Has a great shine to it.

vasu

Questions about Clay

What is this clay stuff I keep hearing about?
Over time, particles can embed themselves in the porous surface of your car paint. These particles are more commonly referred to as environmental fallout and can include sulfur, metal filings, and pollen, dust and soot. Since these particles are embedded in the paint, a mere washing will not remove them. However, a product such as clay or paint prep will be able to. Clay works by rolling over the paint with a lubricant and literally sticking to the particle and pulling it out. Paint preps work by dissolving it out so that it can be removed with cloth.

How will I know if I need to clay my car?
Use a plastic food service glove (clear cellophane type) or if you can't find one you can use clear saran-wrap. Put the glove on, or wrap you finger in 1 layer of saran wrap. If the paint feels gritty to the touch after a washing, then it's time to clay.

How do I clay my car?
Think of claying the car like shaving. The clay bar is your razor, the embedded particles are the hair, and soapy water or a quick detail spray is like your shaving cream. In fact it's almost exactly like that. Spray the lubricant (soapy water or detailing spray) on a freshly dawn-washed car, and then wipe with a little pressure, the clay bar over the paint. The lubricant is so the clay wont stick to the paint completely, and when you wipe it over the paint the clay bar will pick up embeded particles while leaving the paint intact. Wipe up any excess fluid on the paint with a micro fiber cloth. (answer to: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...=5262#post5262)

Is using a clay bar worth the time and effort?
Use a clay bar or paint prep product. There is a lot of stuff bonded to a car's paint surface that you wont be able to see. Without removing this debris, the polymer or wax will not be able to bond, and this is crucial for the first coat of protectant. I recommend claying/prepping at least twice a year, or as needed.

Should there be any sticking?
If the clay bar is sticking to the paint at all, or it feels like it's catching on somethng, then you need more lubricant. Spray more (either soapy water or detail spray) and try again, it shouldn't stick any more.

ssm_tsx also suggests spraying some of the lubricant on your fingers to keep the clay from sticking to you.

Do clay bars scratch the paint?
It is possible to scratch the paint if you do not use the clay bar properly. You must fold or knead the clay a bit as you use it so that you get a fresh and unused piece of clay. The best way to do it is to use a knife or piece of string and slice away a thin layer of the clay as it gets too dirty.

Will claying the car remove rust and 4-way protection offered by Acura?
No, it will leave the protection intact as it's applied during the paint process.

vasu

Questions about Brands

What are good polymers to use?
The best ones to use are Liquitech's Finish First (www.liqui-tech.com and www.finishfirstpolish.com), Zaino's Bros Z-2 (www.zainostore.com) and Klasse. Personally, Finish First is my favorite because it was easier to use and I personally got better results.

I notice you prefer Finish First's polymer over Zaino, why?
First off it's for personal reasons personal reasons. Zaino and Finish First are excellent products that will give you almost equal levels of protection. I found Zaino messy to work with however. I was not a fan of applying the Z1 product (which is supposed to remove contaminants) and then applying the Z2 on top of it. And now with ZFX that's another product to use. It just gets kind of complicated and messy when you're applying 3 liquid products on top of each other. I prefer to remove paint prep products (like Z1) before putting the protection on as it will give a better bond. However, Zaino does not instruct this. Please keep in mind that these are personal preferences and Zaino is still a great product.

What are the two biggest flaws of Zaino and Finish First
The biggest flaw of Zaino is that dust can settle on the car in between coats. They suggest letting the car sit without any additional coats for a period of 12-24 hours before adding your next coat. The problem here is dust can settle and then you seal in the dust which could scratch the paint, or the underlying layer of polymer. However if you can cover the car with a car cover, it becomes a non-issue. Meanwhile, the biggest flaw with Finish First is that they take a traditional approach to polymerizing and don't have any agents to accelerate the process. This means that the first coat has to be 24 hours for maximum protection, and a second coat should be 12 hours, etc. If you have the time and a garage of car cover, this is a non-issue.

What are all these Z products from Zaino?
The most common are Z-1, Z-2, Z-6 and ZFX. Z1 is a paint prep used to remove contamination. Z2 is the actual polymer and goes on top. ZFX can be applied the combination of Z1 and Z2 and will allow it to cure faster to the paint. Z6 is a gloss enhancer and does not provide any protection. It is a detailing spray product.

What is Zaino ZFX, do you recommend it?
ZFX is a product that accelerates the curing time of the Z2 polymer so that you don't have to let it cure for so many hours; it does indeed allow you to make the polymerizing process go faster. However, in my experience, the caveat is protection. When you throw ZFX into the mix, you get it done faster, but the level of protection goes down when you do Z2+ZFX for like 1 or 2 hours (I can't remember how long they recommend using it) vs using Finish First or regular Zaino Z2 for 24 hours. I guess the ZFX is fine if you're in a hurry. Just realize that while the job will get done faster, it wont get done better. Do not expect the same level of protection when using ZFX as when you do a good 24 bond. If you are using the ZFX you should switch to polymerizing 4 times a year instead of two. You will still get protection that will be better and last longer than a traditional wax, but if you have to time to use Zaino or Finish First for a full 24 hours, that's what I advise.

What is a good detailing spray?
My current favorite is Zymol Field Glaze. They also sell one you can find in any AutoZone called "Detail", which is exactly the same except it has less Carnuba sap in it. For the most part, the advantage to using quick detail sprays is to enhance and maintain the gloss on the car. The polymer will do the protecting, so the detailing spray is just to make it look better and also to give the car a just waxed/wet look after a wash. So if this is just for vanity, you want something that will have oils in it that are the definition of a just waxed/wet look. Zymol Field Glaze contains: Carnauba Sap, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Esters, and Propolis (derived from Bees). The polymer is for protection and initial shine while this detailing spray is for that show car look.

vasu

Questions about General Care/Cleaning

What motion should I use for washing and protecting?
In the olden days, the most common method was to use a circular motion. However these days, whether you are washing the car or applying/removing a protectant, you should use straight back and forth motions in the direction of the length of the car.

How do I know what soap to use?
There are only 2 kinds of soap you should ever use to wash your car. Use a dishwashing soap such as Dawn to watch it every time to want to clean everything off and start new. If you are reapplying coats of polymer and you want to clay the car again, it use best to strip everything with Dawn. For maintenance, it is best to use a car wash shampoo that will not strip wax.

What should I wash my car with?
Forum member DEVO highly recommends using soft bristle car brushes from OXO (www.oxo.com). These brushes use very soft bristles that wont scratch the paint and also allow the cleaning process to go by faster. Futhermore, since the bristles don't hold on to dirt, there's no risk of scratching the paint from respreading the dirt back into the paint.

However if you prefer a more traditional approach, either foam or cotton is fine. If you are using cotton, make sure to be careful and not drop it, and rinse it out often. With foam, wring it out often and rinse it out as well. The main thing to remember is not to drop it, and also don't wring out dirty water into the bucket!

Can I use car washes at my gas station?
After making sure the car is clayed and properly polymerized, you should be fine with a gas station car wash. Just make sure to skip the hot wax and use a micro-fiber cloth to dry the car completely as soon as you drive through the car wash and are still at the gas station. Finish it up with a detailing spray and you are good to go.

Do pressure wash systems affect polymer?
The pressure alone will not destroy your polymer paint protection, but if used incorrectly the pressure can chip your paint. For example, if you hold such strong pressure too close to the surface of your car for an extended period, it may cut through the clear coat and maybe even the paint. (answered by hondacious)

Is the soap in commercial pressure wash systems ok?
I'll try to answer this question the best way I can w/o criticizing one's car wash business. Commercial car wash soap is fine as long as it is diluted to the correct strength. The foam soap should be nice and foamy, not watery. The wax used at these car wash systems are worth using because they do work, but for a very limited amount of time because of external factors working against the protection of the wax. Also, because more than likely it is carnauba based and because it is not hand applied the next time you wash it look for that wax to be good as gone. (answered by hondacious)

How do I get rid of bug splatter?
Take a bounce fabric softener and wet it. Rub the wet sheet on the bug guts and they come off the car very easily. Wash the car normally afterwards and everything is gone. (tip by BamaTSX) Another method is to use a diluted degreaser mixture. 5 parts water to 1 part degreaser. Do not allow the solution to sit on the car but remove immediately. (tip by hondacious)

What are good ways to dry the car?
The california water blade is a great way to quickly remove the bulk of the water off the surface of the car. It is made from soft silicone and will not scratch your paint. To finish up the process and dry up the remaining amounts if water, use a micro-fiber cloth or synthetic chamois.

Should I use a rubbing compound?
Only if you want to destroy your paint, or have some serious paint issues you have to resolve by repainting. Compounds will eat through clear coat and are meant for old non-clear coat cars. The modern day replacement, for the most part, will be a paint prep product.

Should I use cloth or foam pads to apply stuff?
The foam pads are better to use because they will not harden up. They are also cheap so you can just replace them instead of trying to wash them.

What should I use to remove stuff?
Microfiber clothes. They polish well and hold on to debris from when you remove products.

How can I keep the car looking great?
If you can wash the car normally with soap and water, then do so once a week or once every two weeks. Follow it up with a quick detail spray to maintain the shine. The polymer will last a long time so you just need to properly remove the surface dirt. Washing a polymerized car should be a quick affair and you can maintain the just cleaned shine with a detail spray.

Are quick detailers worth it?
Most people find that they enhance the shine and make the car smoother and more slippery. They are also good for quick touchups. Products like Zaino Z6 and LiquiTech's Finish Fast are quick detailers.

Is the California Car Duster good?
I'm not personally a fan. It picks up a lot of dirt and debris and that will accumulate in it's bristles. Over time this may cause it to scratch the paint when wiped over it.

What are some good products to use on misc parts?
Stoner's makes a great one called Invisible glass, and Rain-X has a cleaning wipe that also protects. For your tires use either the Stoner's tire spray or the Meguire's tire product (gels and sprays). For interior plastics I like Finish First's interior protector.. it has lanolin and "plasticizers" that help replenish the plastic and bring back a new car smell.

dom

All I can say is wow Thanks vasu.

I hav'nt read through everything yet, but now I know where to check when I have a car cleaning question.

provench

Thanks for posting this vasu ... sticky time

ebcheon

question about clay...

so you're supposed to keep the car lubricated while applying the clay. say i finished claying the hood of my car and the area is still kinda lubricated. do i want to take the clay off the hood before it dries up? or can i finish claying the entire car, which would let the hood dry up with the clay?

vasu

Oh my! You have the claying process all wrong, I hope I didn't mislead you.

You do not actually put the clay on the car and let it dry up and then remove it. The clay is not a wax product.

Think of claying the car like shaving. The clay bar is your razor, the embedded particles are the hair, and soapy water or a quick detail spray is like your shaving cream. In fact it's almost exactly like that.

Spray the lubricant (soapy water or detailing spray) on a freshly dawn-washed car, and then wipe with a little pressure, the clay bar over the paint. The lubricant is so the clay wont stick to the paint completely, and when you wipe it over the paint the clay bar will pick up embeded particles while leaving the paint intact.

It's like this...

Washing car = washing face
Claying car = shaving
Polymerizing face = aftershave/lotion

Let me know if you understand the process, it's VERY important that you do it correctly. At no point should any clay actually reside on the paint and be allowed to dry!

I've added this question and answer to the FAQ

ebcheon

oic... and now it wasn't your description that misled me... i just pictured the process wrong in my head.

okay, so the clay asks as the razor and it doesn't leave any residue on the paint itself. it just shaves off the "hair" and the "shaving cream" off the car, right?!?

i was under the impression that the clay would leave some sort of residue on the paint and i was confused it i was supposed to let it dry or wipe it off while it was still wet.

vasu

You got it, just spray an area with whatever lube you are using and then wipe the clay over it and you'll notice the clay is now a little brown and grainy. Since clay doesn't absorb liquid, the lubricant you use will still be on the paint, so just wipe off the excess with a micro fiber cloth.

Kent

awesome tips vasu!

i read the million post thread over at clubtsx a while back before i got my tsx

good stuff

DEVO

Not to be anal... but I use soft bristle brushes for car washing. OXO (Pep Boys has some of them) makes a whole line of products. I have 3 brushes... 1 big brush that I do the horizontal section (upper car... door handles and above). 2 smaller brush to get everything else except for the lower portions of the car. I use a combination of sponge and cloth in that area (where body panels starts to go under the car). 3rd brush for alloy wheels.

The idea being that bristle don't really hold dirt in (flicks the dirt away) while you scrub. This in turn will reduce spirals in your paint. In fact I don't seen any swirl marks by washing my car in this manner. A sponge on the other hand can trap dirt in and will scratch your paint.

I wash out the brushes after each wash. REMEMBER SOFT BRISTLE ONLY!!! If it hurts (or too rough on your hands) your hand then you got the wrong brush.

vasu

That's actually a great tip. I'm thinking about moving to brushes because they are so wide, I'll be able to wash my car so fast. Esp the ones with the long handle, a few long sweeps, and it'll be done!

How wide is the brush you use, and how long is the handle?

Also about how much did you spend? I'd like to look into this

-vasu

DEVO

I use OXO brushes... the largest one is 2 feet in lenth... 1 foot handle and one foot brush (4-5 inches wide brush).

I paid around 20 USD.

The other one that I use on the car doesn't have a handle... it's a hand brush. It's a little shorter then a foot long and is about 3-4 inches in width. You hold it in the middle.

I paid around 10 USD.

My wheel brush has a handle (6-8 inches in length) and a small brush head (circular like pattern, 3-4 diameter).

I paid around 15 USD.

Even better... I will show you the links of the brushes I have (2nd, 3rd, and 4th Images are the ones that I have):

oxo brushes

LurchRSX

Brushes on paint scare me, so do soft cloth car washes.

vasu

as long as they are soft bristles it will be fine. Soft cloth car washes can be good or bad, it depends on how new they are. If they use newer synthetic brushes, they are generally ok

DEVO

please tell me you don't use a sponge... these brushes are extremely soft... they don't scratch the paint at all.

moda_way

I use a sponge and have never had an issue. Besides, I wash the sponges (meaning I have 1 I use on the lower portion of the car and 1 on the upper portion of the car). The only things I have noticed with using a soft brush is the ability to beat "accidently" on the car with the handle and dirt being trapped in the bristles. That's why I wash my sponges in with my detailing towels (laundry detergent only, not fabric softeners).

LurchRSX

As long as it is a "real" sponge and you clean it you should be ok

DEVO

i don't know what you guys are smoking but sponges no matter what kind trap dirt in them, no matter how often you clean them.

bristle clean up much easier and do not trap the dirt. the handles are made of a soft plastic that unless you use the brush as a hammer, it's not going to dent the car.

gogozy

i gusses it all despend on what compound bristle are made of, it it uses type of polymer that is harder than clearcoat, even split it into hair like fine thickness to make it feel soft, it will still still leave micro scratch, we probably can't see it. the sponge can trap dirt, but it also absort energy, as long as not pressing sponge too hard to the paint during washing it's fine, sponge is no harder then clearcoat, itself is safe.

i prefer cellulose type sponge and i stay away from bristle because they usually use certain type of HDPE plastic that is pretty hard, there isn't too many choice for the manufactory because the stuff need to be UV resistant and chemical restistant. I can be wrong but TSX is not a large car and washing a polymerED TSX with sponge require very little effort so i don't mind sponge.. just my 2c

Jason

Great stuff in this thread. Is it wrong to use my bath towel to dry my car? It's effective with drying me every day...

ebcheon

bath towels are good as long as they're 100% cotton. also, some people recommend that you cut off the edge of the towel b/c they aren't 100% cotton (some other materials added in that could scratch the paint). also, they say its better to get a large bath towel and cut that into 4 squares. its easier to work w/ smaller towels and you have more control over it. moreover, if you drop a towel, don't bother using it again as dirt could have gotten on it, thus scratching your paint.

so technically, i guess its better to buy cotton bath towels and cut them up for car use only.

Jason

That's interesting to know. I was just joking around in my post, wondering if someone would go berserk at my ignorance. I would never personally use a bath towel, I would use a squeegee or chamois. What do you "experts" use? I do mean that sincerely, this thread has been a real eye-opener.

TSXKid

What an incredible thread!

So much to learn...... !!

Thanks Vasu... great job! One question, how did you learn about all this?

Anyway, the bath towels... as long as they are 100% cotton.. no problem. I've used them for years.

As for brushes or sponges ... Brushes scare me. The sponges do work, I've tried them, although you do have to be careful with trapped dirt.

Here is a suggestion, something that I do:

For your regular everyday wash, once, or twice a week, use the following:

CLOTH (100% COTTON) ULTRA SOFT - WASHABLE DIAPERS!

These worked great on my Black Accord ... no swirlies .. none.

At the end of your wash, rinse them in clean water... and let dry.
When they start to wear... get a new one.

A 12 pack costs me $19 Cdn.

Hope that helps.

TSXKid

vasu

About the towels. 100% terry cloth towels are fine if you want to use them. As others have said, cut off the edges, make them into squares if it's a big towel. Also wash them twice before using them the first time to get rid of lint. Make sure to clean out the lint trap in between washings.

Personally, as I stated in the faq, I use the california water blade to remove the bulk of the water, and microfiber clothes to remove water elsewhere.

-vasu

DEVO

If you are going to dry your car off with a towel... make sure that the towel was washed without fabric softner. Just wash with soap and that's it.

You will see some streaking if you use fabric softners.

GRAYTSX

Besides sponges and brushes there are the wash mitts made of lambswool or imitation lambswool. Any comments on these?

odessa

I got a set of lambswool wash mitts at Costco, they seem to work fine, I rinse them often to clear any dirt, thou. This is my first set, so far so good, nothing to complain about.

GeorgeTSX

I am in the process of putting the first coat of Finish First on my car.

Do I want to put FF on my headlights and the tail lights as well?

What about the black parts in between the side windows? There as well?

vasu

headlights and taillights, yeah.

black parts NO NO NO

GeorgeTSX

The black parts I was referring to were just the metal painted parts, not the plastic or rubber ones.

Also, is there really that much a different between leaving Finish First polish on for 24 hours as opposed to say maybe 12 hours?

vasu

Ah, yeah as long as it's metal go ahead and put the polymer on there.

As far as 12h vs 24h. If you can, a 24 hour coat will last longer, resist penetration better (heh heh), and allow for better layering.

If you can at all allow for a 24h coat, please do so. You only have to do it twice a year, so it's not that big of a sacrifice in my opinion.

If you can only do 12h and there is no way around it, then you don't have much of a choice.

I would say though, that if you are given a 12 hour period to work with, and only 12 hour.. It's probably better to do a 9 or 10 hour coat followed by a 3 or 2 hour coat.

-vasu

GeorgeTSX

Ok, I only have 3 hours to go until I hit 24 hours so I will just hang in and take it off then. After that I plan on applying the 2nd coat and waiting 12 hours and take it off tomorrow morning. Then if I have time do the 3rd coat and take it off 6 hours later just before I need to head into work.

vasu

Damn that car's going to look good prepare for jaw droppage

-vasu

DEVO

a mitt can also trap in dirt, but i have friends that use them and no mention of problems.

TWong1200

This is a great thread. Thanks for the tips! I plan on doing my car this weekend.

I do have one question about gasoline. We all get the occasional spill when filling up. I know that the gasoline isn't good for the paint, but what do you do to help this?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.