hey guys,

So I do a pretty good job of upkeep on my TL. The car is Redondo Red, which only looks good when its REAL clean. I clay when needed otherwise my main tools are a PC 7424 with zymol cleaner wax, and then apply meguiars #26. This set up has maintained my paint to be in pretty good condition with no swirls, etching, marring, water damage.

My Problem:
I dont have a garage but i have a car port with an unpaved driveway. Lots of dust likes to fall on it all the time. So I am constantly rinsing it off for a dollar at the local DIY wash. However, everytime I go to dry it, I get light swirl marks all over on the hood, doors, trunk....the only way to fix the problem is if I apply a quick layer of wax or detailer which usually solves the problem immediately.

I use microfibers that are fairly soft and nonabrasive, I am trying to prevent having to keep reapplying wax everytime I just rinse the car off.

Am I going about this the wrong way? Should I avoid just rinsing and proceed to do a whole wash everytime or are the towels my problems and I should buy some waffle towels or would the application of a good sealant help prevent this.

Anyhelp would be much appreciated...Thanks

 

It's perhaps the fact that you aren't washing it but rather rinsing it instead. Simply rinsing your vehicle won't ensure that all the debris has been removed from your vehicle's surface. If it's really light dust, you can just QD it down and wipe it with some good MF's. Otherwise, you'll be better off just washing it as normal and drying it with thick MF's or WW's.

 

I would opt for the complete wash, or $ rinse followed by a No Rinse Wash and Shine. Waxing afterwards isnt solving anything, its only hiding your issues. The Z Cleaner Wax is very very OTC, and filled with ahem.....fillers.
Lets talk basic wash and wax here.
A quality auto shampoo (or NRWS) are mandatory steps. Due to the fact that you reside close to a dusty road only complicate matters with microdust buildup. If this isnt removed frequently it adds to a complicated wash and maintenance routine. You may want to consider a dual bucket wash system equipped with a Grit Guard. The Grit Guard will help retain the dirt from being reintroduced to your wash mit. Also consider pre treating with a 1 gal sprayer if using NRWS.
Surface slickness is important so dust has nothing to adhere to.
A once over clay and polish will really help the wax or sealant adhere, thus allowing for easier debris removal. Even if you do the polishing by hand, your a step ahead.....

 

Yea, I either use the zymol or meguiars cleaner wax, they seem to work pretty well, but I understand what you mean when you say they arent actually solving the problem...just filling it in

Exceldetail, what brand NRWS do you suggest, also I havent actually applied a "polish" with the PC, i felt the cleaner wax's were doing their job enough. What sort of polish do you recommend for a paint that doesnt already have too much damage...

So a good polish will help the wax/sealant (perhaps UPP) to adhere better to make this less of a problem?

 

ONR is only made by Optimum. Your best bet is to provide us with some pictures so we can have a better idea of what we can suggest to you. The polish will be good for removing any paint defects you may have and by providing a clean surface (so long as it really is clean of everything) for your LSP to adhere, your LSP should experience greater durability.

 

Pics would help.

 

I dont have a camera but I will try and get one tomorrow. Not sure how much you will be able to see though, like I said the paint is in pretty good condition, this only happens when I dry after rinsing.... I think I would only need a light polish...just to get the wax to adhere better.

Should I do a Dawn wash to strip off all the wax and then take a picture...I guess that would help see paint imperfections better.

and also im not sure of the effect its making, I think light webbing describes it best.

 

Yeah...there is no way you can just rinse a car off and then dry it.

Some spider webbing huh...

Sounds like you need a good polishing, then sealant, then I guess you could apply some good wax.

What kind of pads do you have for your PC?

Have you read through some of the good articles on the proper steps cleaning your car?

 

Are you saying to apply a sealant and then a wax?...I thought you would apply the wax and then a sealant. Any particular polish you would recommend?

I am using the meguiars yellow polishing pad with the cleaner wax and then the finishing pad with the #26. Have you had any experience with those? Honestly I havent been too impressed, im prolly gonna purchase the Lake County pads sometimes soon.

Yea I definitely try to read as much as I can before I make a thread, but this seemed to be a reoccuring problem and since I literally rinse the car off 2 or 3 times a week...it gets kinda annoying, so I thought I would see what azine had to say. Ultimately I thinks its a rinsing issue, I should go ahead and bucket wash the car when it collects a thick layer of dirt on it.

 

Well...have to wait for some others to chime in to verify.

I just got a PC myself so I am learning.

What I was told was to use a White Polishing Pad with a Polish.

For a lot of people...especially beginners.

A lot of people use Poli-Seal...which is a polish and sealant "all in one" product.

Once your finish is sealed and protected...then I believe you can apply your "last step product" aka LSP. ie. Wax, FS UPP, etc.

Check this great thread out...good read.

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/new-car-care-suggestions-advice-684980/

 

Thanks man....appreciate the help

 

No problem...

 

Is the full process is wash, polish, wax, and then seal?
I'm not sure if I'm supposed to wax or seal first.

 

Yeah, sealant then wax, not the other way around. The cleaner wax is essentially an all-in-one product and by having you follow it up with #26 is just layering the #26 on top of whatever protection is left by the cleaner wax. I also wouldn't go so far as purchasing new pads unless you really have the money to throw around. A lot of professional detailers use the Meg's pads with great success so I think you'll be better off by working on your technique and knowledge.

Technically the full process is wash, clay, polish, IPA wipe down, seal then wax.

 

i think you reapplying the swirls with your rinse and dry method, and probablly not correcting the swirls fully with just a cleaner wax.

sounds like you're a detail freak like the rest of us, but it sounds like your process and technique may be a little off, care to share what your usual process is.

sealant for the durability then wax for a little bit of depth and wetness.

Also for dust, Jazz made a maintenance thread, which shows you how to properly maintain your car with a California duster and quick detailer, might wanna check that out to help with your dust problem.

 

A California Duster would be a much better option than the quick rinse and drys you're doing.

 

Ah..............
If you live on a dusty gravel road, I wouldnt even consider a Cal Duster.....

 

Its not the pads ability to buff that I dont like...Its the fact that the pad has literally started to deteriorate as I use it (hence me buying new pads), little yellow pieces start getting over everything, haha...maybe this too is operator error?...

But it was merely a comment, I understand that I must work on "technique and knowledge". This is why I decided to seek advice by posting on the forum, if you just going to tell me to do a better job then it doesnt really help very much.

I definitely think this is the problem, I was confused on the definition of a Cleaner wax...I believed that it had somewhat of a polishing function but in actuality...it doesnt, instead just fills in the errors.

I cant do thorough washes all the time but when i do its a wash, clay,cleaner wax, and then meguiars 26. If the oxidation is heavy I will use Megs UC in certain areas.

Has anybody used Megs UC as a polishing agent?, I have read that it is possible if done carefully.

It sounds like in order to fix the problem I should polish -> seal -> wax

What is a good overall polish(poorboys, pinnacle, optimum)?, nothing too abrasive, just to deal with light webbing/hologramming/hazing???, haha im not sure which to describe it. I will try and post a picture this weekend sometime, I know how much pictures help.

A duster would be nice too, but for right now I feel want to "correct" this problem instead of just filling it in.

 

I'm not quite sure how my posts have construed as "telling you to do a better job"...

I've been fairly helpful in all of my posts regarding your concerns and if you feel like I offended you, I guess I will just not say anything anymore.

 

Denzil

Perhaps I took that comment the wrong way. Trust me, no offense was taken and I appreciate everyones advice. I agree that I will be better off working on my technique and performance, that is the exact reason why I'm here.

IYO: Would Meg's UC work as a decent polish before I apply the LSP in order to get the LSP to adhere better, I only refer to Megs UC because I have a bottle on hand...otherwise Im going to have to order more product.

 

What do you mean by UC? Ultimate Cut Compound aka M105?

 

exactly....although i dont know the difference between Megs 105 and Ultimate Compound

 

your car has oxidation already!? Pinnacle products are kinda expensive im sure they're worth it. but you can get the same results from more budget friendly brands like optimum and poorboys. i personally use optimum and ive had great results when i first started. poorboys seems to be pretty popular also. either one should work. you'll defidently need a light abrasive and a white polishing pad at least, then you may need a compound and an orange pad depending on the damager

im not 100% sure, but i dont think cleaner waxes have any correcting abillity, i think they just prep the surface to allow for optimum bonding between the wax or sealant.

a picture would defidently help. honda/acura isnt too hard. most of the time you only need a light abrasives. but again with the rinse and dry method, little debris may have got caught in your towel and there could be more damage. try to take a couple of pictures in the sun, hood, roof, trunk, a couple panels. and im sure everyone would be happy to gauge it for you.

the deterioration of your pad seems abnormal, ive seen pictures of beat up pads that still suffice but don't fall apart while buffing. might wanna use more product.

As for claying, claying everytime you wash...cant hurt...but its not necessary. when you clay your taking off your wax or sealant, so youll have to reapply everytime, which is a waste of product.

 

DAM 5 min edit

and finally i know your eager to correct, but as excel says its all in the maintenance. while your investing in some correction products. it would be worth your while to spend that little extra to ensure the swirls wont come back, such as a good wash mitt, waffle weave towels, and youll defidently love ONR.

 

Ultimate Cut Compound is just another name for Meg's 105 or M105. It's a pretty heavy duty compound and takes some patience to learn since it can have a pretty high learning curve, at least with version 1.

If you want to prep your paint (meaning clean your paint's surface of everything without doing any paint correction), you could do an IPA wipe down right before LSP application. However, if you want to do paint correction with M105, that's totally fine too. It just takes time to learn how to use the product. Also, since M105 is a compound, it really should be followed up with a final polish to get the paint looking really good. Usually M105 will finish to the point where it'll still be slightly hazy but most, if not all, of the paint defects should be removed.

 

In small areas there is light oxidation...otherwise the paint is in great condition...this is why I need a polish to specifically make the LSP adhere better...not so much "correct" the paint. Maybe when I get all the wax off the car more imperfections will come out, hopefully then I can snap some photos.

I dont usually clay everytime I wash, just when I feel it is absolutely nessecary, the last time I clay was in December.

 

Try to minimize claying to just a couple times a year, unless your close to railyards or factory's or even the coastline.

 

Yeah, I would take Patrick's advice. I really only clay my vehicle at most twice a year but realistically I only do it when I do a full detail on my vehicle that involves paint correction. By the way, my definition of full detail usually includes paint correction.