Sorry if this was already posted but i couldnt find it anywhere. Can clay remove the clear coat?? The thing is that I clayed my 04 TL a couple of days ago but when done and checking on the whole car's paint, i found some areas that felt smooth but weird..like if the clear coat was gone... It really felt like just the paint.. maybe i was wrong..but need to know that...

 

Did you use the clay with a spray to keep the surface moist? I think you need to give some more details so that others can give suggestions. Good luck!

 

Chances are you're feeling some residual clay that's left on the surface. When I use Mother's clay this sometimes happens. Clay Magic it happens more and Meguair's even more. It will rub right off. Do use plenty of lubricant, though (on the car - not trying to influence your personal leisuretime practices! )

 

Yes, I did use the lubricant all the time... and by the way, I used Clay Magic. But the residual stuff, shouldnt it go away when you wash the car after claying? I hope I didn't remove the clear coat.

And 1 more thing... Can NXT wax (Meguires) be layered? i mean if it can be applied more than one time on the same day or will the second application remove the first one...

Thanx for the replys..

 

I usually just rub it off. Washing might work, but might stick despite a 'gentle' wash. Either way I don't think there is any way it could possibly take off your clear coat. I've used it for years and still have plenty of clear coat on my crappy old cars.

I think NXT can be layered like Zaino. Once it bonds, another application shouldn't take it off. Just a guess, though. Haven't used NXT yet.

 

This should really be in the Wax section:

Claying has been around a long time, and it is a fad right now, but actually, I only use it for very specfic uses, such as removing rail dust. Clay can also do things you do not want it to do.

I only use clay when all else fails - and that includes cutting compounds with my orbital cleaner, and 30 years of experience with it.

I do not recommend claying as a routine prep for waxing.

If you search the Net, and look beyond those who have a vested interest in selling clays, you will find others who recommend caution. Claying is a skilled detailing procedure - it takes epxerience to do it right and safely. A couple of facts and hints:

1) Clay is abrasive - it has very fine abrasives in it, and must be used with a lubricant like soapy water or detailing spray.
2) Clay removes things - that is good. But it also removes things - that can be bad. It will remove high paints in the finish, so it does remove some paint or clear - overusing it has risks.
3) Clays got their latest "born again" start in Japan, where this is lots of air pollution, and many white cars - embedded brake or rail material is very obvious on a white car - so the modern clay was developed
4) The clays are patented and only a few companies make them - the rest is bought by outfits like Zaino and re-packaged (and marked up) for sale to us.
5) Clay must be clean - drop it on the ground and it is toast - and how can you be sure that the used clay is clean enough to be re-used? All it takes is one embedded bit of sand and you can be scratching your finish. The reason i prefer cleaners is that they are "clean" to begin with, and the mild abrasives become non-damaging quickly, even with an orbital. You have to be really out of it to scratch your paint with today's polishes and foam pads. And with polishes, there is a great variety of compounds - you pick the lightest one first, then move up to medium, then heavy cut, only using what is needed to correct the paint flaw. With clay, it is 100% what it is - there are various grades of clay, but have you ever seen them advertised? Of course not, each company has the best: Zaino, Meguiar's, Clay Magic, etc.
6) Yes, clay has its merits - and the big selling point is the feel of a PROPERLY clayed area - but did it get that smooth by just pulling stuff out of the paint? - no way, it has worn the surface a tiny bit, smoothing the asperities (hi and lo points of the paint or metal).
7) Clay is very effectve on glass on water spots - it can literally pull them off - now that is hardly a mild procedure if you think about it. It is like your girlfriend waxing her 'stache. Ouch! Or, imagine leaving duct tape on your hand for a week, then yanking it off. Does this seem like a benign, risk-free procedure? Neither is claying.

So, RR uses clay, but RR respects clay. I always start working on a paint defect by the polishing route, using clay only where nothing else will work, and even then, with a great deal of experience and practice on cheap cars over the years.

This guy has got it right (a good site for car care stuff, by the way). I found them looking for 3M Imperial Machine Glaze, which is the best polishing material I have ever used.

http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=0

 

Thanx a lot for the info guys... But still have to check that... Is there a way to check if the clear coat is still there or should I go to a body shop and ask them... Really worried about this... F..k.
Anyways... I appriciate the info u gave me...

PS: The car looks really really good and smooth after doing all the proccess Hope I dind;t do anything wrong...else its gonna be a pain in the ass for a while..

 

Get a cleaner/wax or polish, apply to a section in doubt, and gently rub with white cotton towel. There should not be any color on the towel, except perhaps certain colors where they put a tint in the clear (often done with red). Usually, if the clear is gone, you will know - and how will you know it. Base color coats are not glossy - that is the clear's job.

 

Moving to Wash and Wax.

 

As posted on another forum......and call your dealer, ask him where you paint code is, then give him the paint code and see if it includes a CC.
No complete detail is complete unless you have "clayed" your vehicles surface. Kind of a strange name for a product, but I assure you its completely safe when used as directed. It can be rather intimidating if you have never used before, but once you have, you’ll wonder why you waited so long. Clay is designed to pull contaminants away or simply sheer them from your paint surface, safely, and this is accomplished with ease.
So what equipment or materials is needed? There’s no equipment needed at all! All you need is clay, and a lubricant, and a micro fiber towel for wiping upon completion. Now you can skip the towel if you elect to clay while washing.
There are many brands of clay available, and at least two are usually available at your local auto paint supply store or Automotive parts store (Kragen, Pep Boys). Meguiars makes a new version, better than its preceding version, Mothers makes a nice kit, comes with the clay, a lubricant (Showtime QD), and a small sample of Pre Wax Cleaner. The original Clay Magic I believe still comes with a lubricant as well. Make sure you buy or are using “Fine grade” in the beginning stages.

So lets get started !
Lets assume, it’s the beginning of summer, and you want your ride looking the ultimate! You begin with your normal wash routine (see Proper washing techniques), you’ve removed any tar, gum, and assorted crap stuck to the lower panels with a citrus cleaner or tar/adhesive remover (3M comes to mind). Now you have dried the surfaces with a waffle weave drying towel, and "she" looks good, you rub your hand along the top of the hood, and you feel what seems like specs of sand (If you think it feels good at this point, put your hand in a sandwich baggy)..... Close analysis, its actually tiny bits of metal (Brake linings, rail dust), or just normal industrial fallout. Its inescapable, pollutants happen to everyone, and the reason we need to remove these pollutants is, metal contributes to rust, and once rust starts, it’s usually not good! Not to mention physical appearance anyway.
Make sure your working in a shaded area, on a cool surface. Once you get started, the whole process can be completed in about ½ hr. Lets start with the hood. Unwrap your clay product, and take about 1/3 to ½ of it in the palm of your hand. Place the other portion back in the wrapper it came in, you may need this in case you drop the 1st half. If you do drop it, discard it. Spray the lubricant on about ½ to 1/3 of the surface, just as you would while quick detailing it. Take the clay in your hand and knead it until its somewhat soft. Mold to about the size of a small pancake, and place at your fingertips for easy control. Gently place the clay on the surface and glide it back in a front to back motion (grill to window). Use about 10-12 inch passes and overlap each pass. Fold the clay after each area has been cleaned. You will feel some resistance at first, but with passing motions, you’ll be able to tell the clay is removing pollutants! If you feel too much resistance, your either not using enough lubricant or your surface is REAL dirty. A good way to tell you’re not using enough lube or if your surface is too warm, is the clay is leaving product on the surface. This can be removed, with a micro fiber towel. After each area has been clayed, wipe and buff dry with a micro fiber towel.
Clay will remove a portion of wax or sealant protection, so you should follow up with polishing and sealing/waxing. Clay is not a polish! It will remove contaminants, small areas of road tar, road paint, over spray, fallout, and light oxidation. Any areas larger than an eraser tip should be cleaned with a cleaner prior to using clay, otherwise you will end up polluting your clay for future use. You should be able to clay your surface half a dozen times, depending on the quantity of contaminants.
If anyone has additional comments or concerns, feel free to post, or PM me !
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Somewhere between the clear and Blackfire....

 

Short answer is no the clay cannot remove your clear coat - the clay magic kit (or any kit you get) is very very low abrasive clay - You can (as RR stated) get more abrasive Clay but you have to order it.

From my Meguiars training - Claying will remove "surface" contaminents - basically things that are stuck to the surface of the paint - over spray ( they are painting a building or road and the small lil paint dropletts are in the air - then on your paint...) sap, tar, environmental contaminations - things that normal washing and waxing won't get off. It won't remove swirl marks or scratches, and if you have those and plan on addressing them - you might not need to clay that area. Most horizontal surfaces should be clayed once a year or so (hood roof trunk) also the areas around your wheel wells and rocker panels as they get a lot of contaminets on them.

If you going to actively address an area that is scratched or swirled by using a machine (PC or Rotary) and some sort of compound then you don't need to clay as your going to be removing a small amout of the clear anyways so those contaminents will be going as well.

but short answer is no - you probably did not remove your clear coat... more likely you removed what ever wax or protection was on that section you are feeling as different.

 

Thanx for all the replys, now I can get a better sleep... :P Well, I guess I didn't and I hope I didn't remove the clear coat. Thanx a lot guys.