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Struts are part of the suspension geometry, shocks are not. The TL shock is bolted to the frame, shock, where as a strut would eliminate the upper control arm and attach to the knuckle/spindle and become part of the suspension as a structular support.
Last edited by Turbonut; Jun 27, 2011 at 11:06 AM.
If you're just looking for run-of-the-mill OE replacements (shocks, that is; TL doesn't have struts), go to NAPA and get some Monroe Sensa-Trak. That's probably what your local chain (Firestone, Goodyear, etc) would get.
KYB and Tokiko are also OE replacement options, but you may need to order them on-line.
Whatever you do, get new bushings for the top hats; perhaps even Type-S bushings for a little firmer support.
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
My experience with Monroe is they last about a year then it's time to replace them.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
Struts are part of the suspension geometry, shocks are not. The TL shock is bolted to the frame, shock, where as a strut would eliminate the upper control arm and attach to the knuckle/spindle and become part of the suspension as a structular support.
What you are referring to is a McPherson strut. Mechanically, a strut is any structural element used to brace or strengthen a framework by resisting longitudinal compression. A spring seat shock, as in the TL, is technically a strut (but not a McPherson), because without it the car would fall down on its wheels. What you find in an old chevy is only a shock, because you can take it out, and the springs still hold the car up.
..what are exactly the top hats bushing? i was looking online and think you are refering to the RUBBER, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING? let me know if iam wrong thank you
thank you guys for all the replies..i think iam gonna go with the konis
You won't regret it. I got the Konis and H&R Sports from shox.com for ~$720 which is a pretty decent deal. Been running them for a few months now at 1/2 turn from full soft and couldn't be happier with the drop and handling. The ride is notably firmer than stock, but far from rough and overall it's much more compliant. Just gotta order the RSB now.
I need to buy shocks & struts for my 2005 TL .. which ones are my best options not too expensive please ..
TOKICO HP or HTS (with our sale). See the post below.
Originally Posted by HOCKEYMAN23
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
Yes these are a great value for the price we have them listing at. They are better quality than the HP shocks due to some higher quality internal components and they have damping adjustment.
My experience with Monroe is they last about a year then it's time to replace them.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
If you are looking for the shock on the market then the KONI is your best bet. It can be paired with just about any spring, generally has the longest life, and offers damping adjustment as well as different ride height perches.
We have all these parts on our website. Just put in your vehicle info.
My factory shocks are blown after 70k miles. I'm looking for the most aggressive handling available at the cheapest price. I am leaning toward the HTS, as they seem like a great deal after that promotion.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
My factory shocks are blown after 70k miles. I'm looking for the most aggressive handling available at the cheapest price. I am leaning toward the HTS, as they seem like a great deal after that promotion.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
You would really have to set the damping to full soft and then adjust accordingly. It may be too soft so you would have to turn the dial to set it exactly like you like it. These shocks can work with OE springs so that would not change the longevity.
What you are referring to is a McPherson strut. Mechanically, a strut is any structural element used to brace or strengthen a framework by resisting longitudinal compression. A spring seat shock, as in the TL, is technically a strut (but not a McPherson), because without it the car would fall down on its wheels. What you find in an old chevy is only a shock, because you can take it out, and the springs still hold the car up.
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
Hockeyman23-I just installed the same dampners on my car with some H&R sport springs. I'm not sure if it's the rebound or compression in the rear, but it sort of feels like it's bottoming out. I have the rear dampners turned 3 full turns from firm. The fronts are set to 2 full turns from firm. What are yours set to and have you noticed anything similar? Thanks.
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
I'm confused. Firestone is telling me that I need struts for my '07 TL (base). However, the forum here says the TL does not have struts. Which is it?
dont get hung up on terminology.
we have shocks, but most people confuse the two and or use the two interchangeably.
firestone will not sell you something that wont fit.
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
First, you need to get an alignment.
an alignment is crucial and provides 2 things for you.
1. it gets your car to track straight.
2. it serves as a tool or a trouble shooting guide.
point number 1 will cure your funny tire wear, as the car is made to "toe-in"
if toe is not set to 0, you will have funny tire wear when the car squats to accelerate or to corner.
point number 2 will show you how far out of spec your car is.
if alignment tech cannot get car into spec, the sheet will give you clues on what may be wrong, like bushings, shocks, etc.
Struts are part of the suspension geometry, shocks are not. The TL shock is bolted to the frame, shock, where as a strut would eliminate the upper control arm and attach to the knuckle/spindle and become part of the suspension as a structular support.
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
Sound like what my normal auto place said, took my car to another place and he said my shocks are fine. I don't have any steering issue and my car feel normal to me. I have inner tire wear and feathering issue too. "justnspace" and members said to zero out my toe, so I guess my next step is to get a alignment and have then zero out my toe.
Again, shocks don't have to blow out or bleed to death to be bad. They start leaking internally over time and get softer and softer. Sometimes it can be subjective. My OEM shocks had softened enough by 40k that I replaced them with Konis. Some people might not have noticed the difference.
My shocks has 163k on them and I mostly drive on highway, to me it seem like my shocks has gotten stiffer overtime or I just don't remember. I guess that a good sign that my shocks are still good?
At 163k, there's no way your shocks are still good. Maybe they're doing a little something but I doubt it's much. You're probably hitting the bumpstops easier now and the ride has become harsher. Shocks most definitely don't stiffen up over time.
I have to fully agree with turbonut in his definition. I don't think the quote is going to post and I don't have the time to fix it but you know what I mean.
So I have not seen any good posts on how to replace TL 04 rear struts/shocks I have just done this using this as the primary resource but it misses some really important tips. As an infrequent member I can not create a new post so putting this here. If any experts are able to create a new channel/conversation I can move the content where it will be easier for members to find.
So first comment is to get the rear seats out you really do need a screwdriver or plastic lever to push the seat cusion out of the way on the lower bolts. Otherwise I found the socket kept slipping off the bolt.
As to removing the rear socks here are some tips I picked up from utube on hondas and my own experience.
1.What ever you do only release/undo the 2 mounting nuts under the parcel shelf. Undo the bolt hidden by the bulkhead and one the other side of the rubber mount only
2. Remember when removing what I will call the lower pivot bolt to use a breaker bar and use gravity or your foot to assist. This means you will be working on the nut on one side of the vehicle and the bolt on the other.
3. To give your self more space loosen the break sensor cable and the plate that links to the sway link bar This shows the plate with both the pivot and mounting bolt removed. Next unclip the sensor cable and push the whole plate down and out of the way.
4. You will need a lever bar to push the lower suspension down and take pressure off the pivot bolt. Even with the that you may need to use a punch to push the pin out and possibly a soft mallet to knock it out.
5. Once you have the whole unit free push the bottom in towards the centre of the vehicle and again use a pry bar to push the break assembly down to give you space to pivot the top of the strut out from the wheel arch. As you can see here I was using a garden shovel/space to provide leverage.
Removing unit using local garden pry tool!!
I will not comment on compressing spring and replacing as there are lots of posts and videos on how to do that. I will say that I managed this without air tools and a bit of patience. You will need a breaker bar and sockets though.
An old thread, but 100% correct.
