Shocks & struts for my TL
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#3
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I might be wrong but the TL does not have struts. It has shocks. If you want to stay OEM, get the ASPEC suspension.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
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#8
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Struts are part of the suspension geometry, shocks are not. The TL shock is bolted to the frame, shock, where as a strut would eliminate the upper control arm and attach to the knuckle/spindle and become part of the suspension as a structular support.
Last edited by Turbonut; 06-27-2011 at 11:06 AM.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#9
AZ Community Team
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If you're just looking for run-of-the-mill OE replacements (shocks, that is; TL doesn't have struts), go to NAPA and get some Monroe Sensa-Trak. That's probably what your local chain (Firestone, Goodyear, etc) would get.
KYB and Tokiko are also OE replacement options, but you may need to order them on-line.
Whatever you do, get new bushings for the top hats; perhaps even Type-S bushings for a little firmer support.
KYB and Tokiko are also OE replacement options, but you may need to order them on-line.
Whatever you do, get new bushings for the top hats; perhaps even Type-S bushings for a little firmer support.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#10
GODZILLA & 3G TL
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#11
Team Owner
My experience with Monroe is they last about a year then it's time to replace them.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#12
Resident Dingo
^ +1
The Monroe is garbage. KYB GR2 is a good oem replacement imo, however the Konis are very nice & also worth the little bit of extra $$$.
Shox Shop (aka shox dot com) has the koni sports for for $638.40 w/ free shipping. pretty good deal imo.
The Monroe is garbage. KYB GR2 is a good oem replacement imo, however the Konis are very nice & also worth the little bit of extra $$$.
Shox Shop (aka shox dot com) has the koni sports for for $638.40 w/ free shipping. pretty good deal imo.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#14
What you are referring to is a McPherson strut. Mechanically, a strut is any structural element used to brace or strengthen a framework by resisting longitudinal compression. A spring seat shock, as in the TL, is technically a strut (but not a McPherson), because without it the car would fall down on its wheels. What you find in an old chevy is only a shock, because you can take it out, and the springs still hold the car up.
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veom23 (07-04-2011)
#15
..what are exactly the top hats bushing? i was looking online and think you are refering to the RUBBER, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING? let me know if iam wrong thank you
#16
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
You won't regret it. I got the Konis and H&R Sports from shox.com for ~$720 which is a pretty decent deal. Been running them for a few months now at 1/2 turn from full soft and couldn't be happier with the drop and handling. The ride is notably firmer than stock, but far from rough and overall it's much more compliant. Just gotta order the RSB now.
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veom23 (07-05-2011)
#17
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-226886.aspx
Use promo code HTS507
My experience with Monroe is they last about a year then it's time to replace them.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
KYB is a decent semi-budget brand.
Konis are very good for both ride comfort and performance but they cost a bit more. I think it was Excelerate that was offering a great deal on them, you might want to see if that's still going on.
If you are looking for the shock on the market then the KONI is your best bet. It can be paired with just about any spring, generally has the longest life, and offers damping adjustment as well as different ride height perches.
We have all these parts on our website. Just put in your vehicle info.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
Let me know if you have any questions.
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veom23 (07-06-2011)
#18
My factory shocks are blown after 70k miles. I'm looking for the most aggressive handling available at the cheapest price. I am leaning toward the HTS, as they seem like a great deal after that promotion.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
#19
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
My factory shocks are blown after 70k miles. I'm looking for the most aggressive handling available at the cheapest price. I am leaning toward the HTS, as they seem like a great deal after that promotion.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
I was just wondering how they would pair up with my OEM springs. Would I need to set the dampers to extra-soft to match the soft spring rate? How would this combo drive with the dampers on a firmer setting? Would the soft spring affect their longevity?
I'd rather not spend another $200 on aftermarket springs, since they all lower the car significantly. I encounter some pretty nasty dips, driveways, and dirt roads in my daily driving, so stock height works just fine for me.
#21
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
What you are referring to is a McPherson strut. Mechanically, a strut is any structural element used to brace or strengthen a framework by resisting longitudinal compression. A spring seat shock, as in the TL, is technically a strut (but not a McPherson), because without it the car would fall down on its wheels. What you find in an old chevy is only a shock, because you can take it out, and the springs still hold the car up.
#22
keep it clean
Go with the Tokico HTS shocks from excelerate. I'm loving mine so far...just installed this past Sunday. Adjustable dampening (awesome) and a crazy good special price. It was like $440 including shipping. They're listed for the 03-07 accord, but they fit our 3G TLs just fine. Just my opinion...
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Why is Firestone telling you that they need to be replaced? Have you noticed a decrease in ride quality?
#27
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
#29
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
an alignment is crucial and provides 2 things for you.
1. it gets your car to track straight.
2. it serves as a tool or a trouble shooting guide.
point number 1 will cure your funny tire wear, as the car is made to "toe-in"
if toe is not set to 0, you will have funny tire wear when the car squats to accelerate or to corner.
point number 2 will show you how far out of spec your car is.
if alignment tech cannot get car into spec, the sheet will give you clues on what may be wrong, like bushings, shocks, etc.
go get an alignment and report back
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nttstt444 (05-20-2014)
#31
Oddly, I went to Kaufman Tire and they also told me that I need new struts. I took the care in because I was having getting a steering alignment. When they looked at the front tires, one tire had worn on the inside and the other tire has "cupping". They mentioned that I needed "struts". They were offering the Monre-Sensa Traks. I declined because they were asking too much. I would like to tackle this on my own. Can shocks impact tire wear?
#32
Team Owner
Monroes generally last a year or so.
Again, shocks don't have to blow out or bleed to death to be bad. They start leaking internally over time and get softer and softer. Sometimes it can be subjective. My OEM shocks had softened enough by 40k that I replaced them with Konis. Some people might not have noticed the difference.
Again, shocks don't have to blow out or bleed to death to be bad. They start leaking internally over time and get softer and softer. Sometimes it can be subjective. My OEM shocks had softened enough by 40k that I replaced them with Konis. Some people might not have noticed the difference.
#33
My shocks has 163k on them and I mostly drive on highway, to me it seem like my shocks has gotten stiffer overtime or I just don't remember. I guess that a good sign that my shocks are still good?
#34
Team Owner
At 163k, there's no way your shocks are still good. Maybe they're doing a little something but I doubt it's much. You're probably hitting the bumpstops easier now and the ride has become harsher. Shocks most definitely don't stiffen up over time.
#35
Team Owner
#36
So I have not seen any good posts on how to replace TL 04 rear struts/shocks I have just done this using this as the primary resource but it misses some really important tips. As an infrequent member I can not create a new post so putting this here. If any experts are able to create a new channel/conversation I can move the content where it will be easier for members to find.
https://acurazine.com/how-tos/a/acur...reviews-423777
So first comment is to get the rear seats out you really do need a screwdriver or plastic lever to push the seat cusion out of the way on the lower bolts. Otherwise I found the socket kept slipping off the bolt.
As to removing the rear socks here are some tips I picked up from utube on hondas and my own experience.
1.What ever you do only release/undo the 2 mounting nuts under the parcel shelf.
Undo the bolt hidden by the bulkhead and one the other side of the rubber mount only
2. Remember when removing what I will call the lower pivot bolt to use a breaker bar and use gravity or your foot to assist. This means you will be working on the nut on one side of the vehicle and the bolt on the other.
3. To give your self more space loosen the break sensor cable and the plate that links to the sway link bar
This shows the plate with both the pivot and mounting bolt removed. Next unclip the sensor cable and push the whole plate down and out of the way.
4. You will need a lever bar to push the lower suspension down and take pressure off the pivot bolt. Even with the that you may need to use a punch to push the pin out and possibly a soft mallet to knock it out.
5. Once you have the whole unit free push the bottom in towards the centre of the vehicle and again use a pry bar to push the break assembly down to give you space to pivot the top of the strut out from the wheel arch. As you can see here I was using a garden shovel/space to provide leverage.
Removing unit using local garden pry tool!!
I will not comment on compressing spring and replacing as there are lots of posts and videos on how to do that. I will say that I managed this without air tools and a bit of patience. You will need a breaker bar and sockets though.
-
https://acurazine.com/how-tos/a/acur...reviews-423777
So first comment is to get the rear seats out you really do need a screwdriver or plastic lever to push the seat cusion out of the way on the lower bolts. Otherwise I found the socket kept slipping off the bolt.
As to removing the rear socks here are some tips I picked up from utube on hondas and my own experience.
1.What ever you do only release/undo the 2 mounting nuts under the parcel shelf.
Undo the bolt hidden by the bulkhead and one the other side of the rubber mount only
2. Remember when removing what I will call the lower pivot bolt to use a breaker bar and use gravity or your foot to assist. This means you will be working on the nut on one side of the vehicle and the bolt on the other.
3. To give your self more space loosen the break sensor cable and the plate that links to the sway link bar
This shows the plate with both the pivot and mounting bolt removed. Next unclip the sensor cable and push the whole plate down and out of the way.
4. You will need a lever bar to push the lower suspension down and take pressure off the pivot bolt. Even with the that you may need to use a punch to push the pin out and possibly a soft mallet to knock it out.
5. Once you have the whole unit free push the bottom in towards the centre of the vehicle and again use a pry bar to push the break assembly down to give you space to pivot the top of the strut out from the wheel arch. As you can see here I was using a garden shovel/space to provide leverage.
Removing unit using local garden pry tool!!
I will not comment on compressing spring and replacing as there are lots of posts and videos on how to do that. I will say that I managed this without air tools and a bit of patience. You will need a breaker bar and sockets though.
-
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