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CV axle fitment question

 
Old 06-03-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Plan B, did you put the wheel back on and lower the weight of the car on it?

Marine Gunnery Sergeant Thomas Highway recommends, in situations just like these, that you use cerebral cognition to improvise, adapt, and overcome.

Good Luck!
I did not in fact try that....thanks. That'll be next, before going back to advanced auto parts and buying that damn tool cuz it's only like $25

Not sure what to do about my ruined boot now though...
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Old 06-03-2019, 06:26 PM
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You just need to give it a VERY HARD kick with your foot on top of the rotor/brake dust shield then it should pop. But before you do that, take a 3lb hammer and nail the outside of the lower control arm around the ball joint repeatedly. The key is to break the rust bond between the ball joint and the lower control arm.

Last edited by t-rd; 06-03-2019 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:02 PM
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Thanks for all of the advice guys. The job is finally done and the car is driving smooth. The only casualty was the boot of the lower control arm, where I accidentally pried it up and exposed that grease. I will be doing both axles with new replacements soon here, this was just to get me driving back to work asap with a cheap replacement.

Here's the old axle. You can tell the donut/harmonizer just traps that salt, dirt, and water. Yikes. I'm afraid to look under the one on the pass. side!

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Old 06-03-2019, 07:10 PM
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^
Wow! That's

They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.


The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??

Last edited by zeta; 06-03-2019 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
^
Wow! That's

They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.


The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
I forgot to add that I ended up bringing out the ol' farm socket set - a 1.5" thick, 2'+ long breaker, and i used the extension (maybe about a foot long?) to wedge into that gap, which 1.5" snugly fit. Then i used a full sized sledgehammer to bang it away. Took a few minutes, but size really does matter in this situation as I found out. What a waste of a trip to the auto parts store! lol
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post

They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
Who is "they"? Do "they" really think a silicon bead will last more than a week? Just asking....
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSauceBoss View Post
I forgot to add that I ended up bringing out the ol' farm socket set - a 1.5" thick, 2'+ long breaker, and i used the extension (maybe about a foot long?) to wedge into that gap, which 1.5" snugly fit. Then i used a full sized sledgehammer to bang it away. Took a few minutes, but size really does matter in this situation as I found out. What a waste of a trip to the auto parts store! lol
Well Done.
Improvise, adapt and overcome.
Gunny Highway would proudly say, OO-RAH!
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared View Post
Who is "they"?
I read it here somewhere, over the years, as a potential deterrent to a problem experienced for the northern folks.


Originally Posted by nfnsquared View Post
Do "they" really think a silicon bead will last more than a week? Just asking....
I hear you.
Logically thinking, if I lived up in your neck of the woods, maybe a better way of saying it could be: Would it hurt?
Practically, if I were to use this recommendation, I would clean the axle shaft area, around the damper, as thoroughly as possible with a solvent and then apply silicone, either in a 'bead' and/or slather said silicone around the rubber damper edges, let it fully cure and hope for the best. Figuring that anything that would hamper or slow down salt/grime intrusion would be a plus.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:05 PM
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CV axle fitment question

So per a recent post, I snapped and replaced a CV axle with a used OEM one.

I wanted something more sustainable than a $30 used OEM one, so I asked around and a couple people suggested the APW ones off of Rockauto.

The APWs showed up at my door a few days ago, but I immediately noticed that they do not have the inner thread/spline on one side of the axle.

So now I'm wondering if rockauto sent me the wrong axles (these were the ones I bought...one pic shows them with the threads, the other doesn't... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=353 )

Or, if i need to transfer the existing one on my old axle onto this new one (which I don't know if that's common, or going to be a PITA)

Has anyone that's rebuilt their CV's - is this a difficult part to transfer over? I haven't done anything besides lay them down next to eachother in the garage for a second, so I'll take a closer look tonight. Thank for any input.


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Old 06-10-2019, 01:27 PM
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Did you order two (right) APWI HO8398's? One goes into the half shaft assembly.

If so, you have two passenger side axles.

APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Did you order two (right) APWI HO8398's? One goes into the half shaft assembly.

If so, you have two passenger side axles.

APWI HO8369 is (left) the driver side axle. This one goes in to the driver side trans. case.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...432641&jsn=335
I'm a dumbass. I opened one box, forgetting that the right and left side are different. I def opened the pass side box. I'm sure the drivers side one is an exact replacement. Thanks for bringing that to light lmao.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:40 PM
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^


Here's to you getting long life from these APWI's.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:41 PM
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
^


Here's to you getting long life from these APWI's.
So are these APWI's good?
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BreezyTL View Post
So are these APWI's good?
According to DMZ, they are suitable inexpensive Chinese alternatives.

Last edited by zeta; 06-10-2019 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
According to DMZ, they are suitable inexpensive Chinese alternatives.
I am getting the wobbles around corners and accelerating around 20 mph. Thought about changing them out OEM is about $500 Shipped for both or go the $120 Shipped route.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BreezyTL View Post
I am getting the wobbles around corners and accelerating around 20 mph. Thought about changing them out OEM is about $500 Shipped for both or go the $120 Shipped route.
Like i said, I heard good things about these but I will also follow up once they're on the car.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:05 PM
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I can wait for results. Hurry, hurry!!
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:33 PM
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I just gambled and bought a Surtrack/trakmotive drivers side axle on Rockauto. Will let you guys know how it goes.

Wanted to order APWI, but for some reason shipping was cheaper to order surtrack with the other parts i was getting. Only upside I guess is the Lifetime warranty with Surtrack/Trakmotive.

I skipped the Cardone as an option completely. Have read mixed things.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BreezyTL View Post
I can wait for results. Hurry, hurry!!
It won't be until this weekend that I'll have time to do it, so you gotta be patient for 4 more days! haha
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:47 PM
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Aren't you getting a nagging cough and chills?... could be the flu... better stay home tomorrow
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