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I was at a 2 way intersection bisected by a highway, and I was going to take off to get on the highway, when BOOM, something exploded, and my car wouldn't move an inch.
I hopped out and pushed the car back a few feet into the less busy road (thank god I didn't get stuck in the middle of that highway, I could have been toast).
Drive light blinked for a second, couldn't put the car into reverse either. I thought for sure my trans is toast, as I'm at 206k on the original. Thought it was weird that I was hearing this "flapping" noise though, like something was freely spinning in the trans.
Tow truck comes and as the car is being loaded the driver is like "I doubt it's your trans considering your axle isn't attached to your wheel anymore" lol. It looks like it sheared off at the outer CV joint. But until I get home from work and inspect it closer, that's all I got.
My question is: Once you lose one axle, the diff would cause zero power to be put to the wheels, correct? I'm just trying to think if there's any reason my trans is also damaged from the takeoff to snap.
Additionally, if anyone has any input or suggestions for changing the drivers side axle, I would appreciate the thoughts.
It is unlikely your trans was damaged, and yes, if you're going to be in there, replace both axles.
Thanks. Have you replaced yours before? There seems to be considerable debate across acurazine searches about cv axles, as in OEM vs aftermarket (with many aftermarket not fitting properly)
Trans should be OK. I'd personally replace both axles and both axle seals while I am at it.
OEM is the way to go otherwise you can look at Raxles or Insane Shafts. Could always do the Vatozone quality with the warranty but from past owners going that route they don't last long. Let us know what you choose and be sure to give your thoughts on the product.
Same situation as some others. Purchased one from Autozone and it had the wrong number of splines on the outer joint. Purchased another from NAPA and had the same problem. Went OEM and didn't look back. 60K miles and so far so good.
Looks like I'm doing both sides, OEM. Thanks for the input from everyone so far.
These two places are where I'm looking at. The thing is, I don't know exactly what part I need until I get home and take a closer look (or, if anyone has past experience, they might be able to chime in). I'm not sure if this is technically the inboard and outboard joint, or the entire driveshaft assembly?
Looks like I'm doing both sides, OEM. Thanks for the input from everyone so far.
These two places are where I'm looking at. Roughly $245 per side, but I also want to drive this car forever, so I'm okay with it, if that's indeed what OEM is going for.
I've gotten trans fluid from bernardi parts before, and it was the cheapest price on the net at the time. But oemacuraparts has them for a whole $2 cheaper, per side....lol
Be careful when reading those diagrams, the $245 price is for the outer joints, the entire assembly is about $520. Unless you are trying to replace just the outer joint, which depending on what broke that may or may not be possible.
Be careful when reading those diagrams, the $245 price is for the outer joints, the entire assembly is about $520. Unless you are trying to replace just the outer joint, which depending on what broke that may or may not be possible.
I noticed that as soon as I posted it, and edited my posting after you replied - Until I find out exactly what needs replaced, I'm going to hold off. All I know is that it appears to have sheared off at the outer cv joint, right before the outer boot.
I gambled last year by buying a set of new AutoZone Duralast axles, I gambled and lost, while smoother than the tired factory axles, they still wobble a bit under acceleration.
I am inclined to buy a new set of OEM axles, however, I've heard at least one of the axles is no longer being made for the 6MT models; I may need to resort to Insane Shafts or some other brand.
Be careful when reading those diagrams, the $245 price is for the outer joints, the entire assembly is about $520. Unless you are trying to replace just the outer joint, which depending on what broke that may or may not be possible.
Wow, I'm stunned at the price difference between the OEM axles for the automatic models versus the 6MT models, the OEM axles for the 6MTs are $252.04 (right) and $235.50 (left). Bizarre.
I noticed that as soon as I posted it, and edited my posting after you replied - Until I find out exactly what needs replaced, I'm going to hold off. All I know is that it appears to have sheared off at the outer cv joint, right before the outer boot.
You may be able to repair a portion of the axle, but repairing/rebuilding CV axles suck. You can run into issues with new and worn older parts, then by the time you buy the pieces separate to fix it, you will be close if not higher in price than just buying the entire assembly, plus the time you have to invest in rebuilding it. I would just replace the entire axle, regardless of whether its OEM or not, it will be easier in the long run.
Originally Posted by horseshoez
Wow, I'm stunned at the price difference between the OEM axles for the automatic models versus the 6MT models, the OEM axles for the 6MTs are $252.04 (right) and $235.50 (left). Bizarre.
Yeah, over the few years I have messed with Honda & Acura stuff they have some oddball pricing on things. lol
Last edited by 05 Acura TL; 05-29-2019 at 10:28 AM.
This is a tough one. I am a big believer in OEM parts, especially when others have stated they have issues with autozone/duralast, even Raxels replacements. BUT a grand for just the parts alone, not including the swearing in the garage, seems a bit crazy.
Seeing used OEM axles for $60 shipped on ebay is tempting. But I guess I need to weigh my risks vs reward here.
So here is something a bit bizarre, when I look up axles for the 2004-2006 TLs, on the various Acura branded sites, there are two for the Automatic models, and two more for the 6MT models, however, if I look on any of the "usual suspects" sites (i.e. Autozone, RockAuto, Advanced Auto...), I see a single common axle for the left side and a discrete axle for each for the right side.
So here is something a bit bizarre, when I look up axles for the 2004-2006 TLs, on the various Acura branded sites, there are two for the Automatic models, and two more for the 6MT models, however, if I look on any of the "usual suspects" sites (i.e. Autozone, RockAuto, Advanced Auto...), I see a single common axle for the left side and a discrete axle for each for the right side.
Hmmm, something don't smell right.
Depending on what the part number says (assuming you are referring to OEM), the two you are seeing maybe one is brand new and the other is a re-manufactured one, Honda/Acura usually has "RMA" or something along those lines with it, for the reman ones. Which depending on the part, car & age you can only get one or the other.
Last edited by 05 Acura TL; 05-29-2019 at 01:11 PM.
Depending on what the part number says, the two you are seeing may be one is brand new and the other is a re-manufactured one, Honda/Acura usually has "RMA" or something along those lines with it, for the reman ones. Which depending on the part, car & age you can only get one or the other.
Nope, checked that; all new parts.
As stated earlier in this thread, the shafts for the Automatic models are something over $500 per side, for the Manual cars, here are the model numbers:
44305-SEP-A02 DriveShaft Assembly, Right DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. $350.04 $252.04
44306-SEP-A02 DriveShaft Assembly, Left DRIVESHAFT ASSY., L. $327.09 $235.50
As stated earlier in this thread, the shafts for the Automatic models are something over $500 per side, for the Manual cars, here are the model numbers:
44305-SEP-A02 DriveShaft Assembly, Right DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. $350.04 $252.04
44306-SEP-A02 DriveShaft Assembly, Left DRIVESHAFT ASSY., L. $327.09 $235.50
Just so I am clear are you referring to an 04-06 to 07-08 difference or something else? If so I was aware of that, after looking at some of the part numbers (OEM) and interchange (OEM site(s)) the only difference I can find between those two (for an automatic at least) is the inboard joint is 07-08 specific and 04-06 specific & so is the half-shaft. However if Honda did it like B/D/H & K series stuff you can just about use any axle on any car as long as it was the right transmission. Even though the part numbers were different and the engine/transmission combo came from another chassis.
EDIT:
After plugging some part numbers in online, some aftermarket axles say they work for 04-06 or 07-08 and other say they work for 04-08 and then some say manual or auto and some don't specify a transmission type. lol
Last edited by 05 Acura TL; 05-29-2019 at 01:29 PM.
Just so I am clear are you referring to an 04-06 to 07-08 difference or something else? If so I was aware of that, after looking at some of the part numbers (OEM) and interchange (OEM site(s)) the only difference I can find between those two (for an automatic at least) is the inboard joint is 07-08 specific and 04-06 specific & so is the half-shaft. However if Honda did it like B/D/H & K series stuff you can just about use any axle on any car as long as it was the right transmission. Even though the part numbers were different and the engine/transmission combo came from another chassis.
EDIT:
After plugging some part numbers in online, some aftermarket axles say they work for 04-06 or 07-08 and other say they work for 04-08 and then some say manual or auto and some don't specify a transmission type. lol
Originally Posted by BROlando
Well...the manual cars all come with Brembo's right? IIRC, the hubs are spaced differently. The spindles are definitely different.
Might explain the issues that people are seeing with splines not fitting the hub.
All of my comments were centric to the 2004-2006 TLs, specifically the 6MT versions with Brembo brakes.
What I found bizarre was the sites which show the same axle for the 2004-2006 TL left side, regardless of transmission/brake type. Clearly I'm missing something.
Yeah, the part numbers and differences in pricing/compatibility were pretty confusing throughout my searches today.
I think I'm going ebay. Found some relatively low mileage OEM ones. And once I do this job once, I'll be able to swap future ones in (if necessary) in a jiffy cuz I'll have the experience at that point.
I found a used OEM shaft on ebay. It's only one state over, and it appears to be in decent condition. I offered them 35 bucks and they accepted
So, in the event this used one fails in the next few months, I figure I would at least 1. have a drive-able car again by mid next week, and 2. I would have the experience to replace the axle again (with OEM) once I can budget a grand towards new OEM ones, or have found a realistic replacement at this point.
There are sets on ebay that are both R and L sides going for ~$110 new, but not oem. The only review on it said that it fit properly and worked, though I'm not sure that's gonna be the selling point for me.
Anyhow, I'm going to continue browsing around for a realistic alternative to OEM in the meantime.
You might want to ping @DMZ, his mechanic, Paul, put an aftermarket set on his TL and he says they are great. I just don't remember which brand he ended up with.
You might want to ping @DMZ, his mechanic, Paul, put an aftermarket set on his TL and he says they are great. I just don't remember which brand he ended up with.
You might want to ping @DMZ, his mechanic, Paul, put an aftermarket set on his TL and he says they are great. I just don't remember which brand he ended up with.
OEM axle was at my doorstep yesterday. 160k on it, and it didn't come with the harmonic stabilizer donut thing. So now I'm questioning whether or not it even was a true OEM from an 05 automatic (possibly rebuilt). You get what you pay for! Not sure how I feel about having one axle with that stabilizer and one without.
Either way, I'm going to take the broken one off my car today in the garage. Putting in an order for the rockauto APWi axles, for both sides after contacting DMZ and confirming they were the ones he used. $120 with shipping, supposed to be here a week from today but I know Rockauto has been good about shipping stuff early.
I'll update with any roadblocks during disassembly.
I looked up the APWi axles and noticed they, like most other non-OEM options, use the same left side shaft, regardless of whether the transmission is automatic or manual.
I looked up the APWi axles and noticed they, like most other non-OEM options, use the same left side shaft, regardless of whether the transmission is automatic or manual.
Yeah, there were no stabilizers on either new shaft that I just ordered. Got the car up right now, cracked the axle bolt, and am about to disassemble. Like other people who've had theirs fail, mine also appears to have failed in the middle of the shaft, next to (or right under) the stabilizer, which must have trapped salt, dirt, water, etc. to increase corrosion.
Yeah, there were no stabilizers on either new shaft that I just ordered. Got the car up right now, cracked the axle bolt, and am about to disassemble. Like other people who've had theirs fail, mine also appears to have failed in the middle of the shaft, next to (or right under) the stabilizer, which must have trapped salt, dirt, water, etc. to increase corrosion.
are you seeing corrosion on the shaft that didn't break? Just trying to see if this is something we can visibly check for.
Also, which side snapped? passenger or driver side?
I still have one that isn't replaced, but haven't got around to checking it. Probably going to get around to replacing it preventatively.
There is corrosion everywhere, but it's typical for living in the rust belt. I'm struggling to get the cotter pin out right now because that's where it's gunked up pretty bad. It was my drivers side - not sure if the drivers side is more prone to failure/abuse, but I have noticed browsing the forums that the drivers side axles seems to fail more often than the passenger. Might just be confirmation bias though. I'll post a picture on this thread of the snapped one when both pieces are out.
Welp I removed the cotter pin, removed the fork and bolt with ease, removed the inner half of the axle by pulling it out of transmission. I got stuck on getting the lower ball joint loose. I put a jack underneath the rotor, used leverage and opposing force with a bar going downwards on the bushing, banged the hell out of the arm for an hour, and I couldn't get it to pop.
but when i showed up, they actually didn't have that tool available at the moment, and said they only had the forks. I said fine, whatever, I'll try them. That was a mistake, because those forks don't work worth a damn, and all I ended up doing was damaging the rubber guard and letting the grease out.
Stepping away from it now because I'm already frustrated enough, but if anyone has any advice, I'm all ears.
^
Well, at this point, since the rubber boot is destroyed, try the 'ratchet handle' method below to move you forward. It works when employed properly and does not destroy:
^
Well, at this point, since the rubber boot is destroyed, try the 'ratchet handle' method below to move you forward. It works when employed properly and does not destroy:
Believe it or not, I already tried that as well (before damaging the boot). Didn't work for me. Then again, I couldn't get a solid jump in, due to how the fender/body panel doesn't exactly allow you to get a good jump onto the rotor.
Believe it or not, I already tried that as well (before damaging the boot). Didn't work for me. Then again, I couldn't get a solid jump in, due to how the fender/body panel doesn't exactly allow you to get a good jump onto the rotor.
Plan B, did you put the wheel back on and lower the weight of the car on it?
Marine Gunnery Sergeant Thomas Highway recommends, in situations just like these, that you use cerebral cognition to improvise, adapt, and overcome.
05-29-2019, 08:29 AM
