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You just need to give it a VERY HARD kick with your foot on top of the rotor/brake dust shield then it should pop. But before you do that, take a 3lb hammer and nail the outside of the lower control arm around the ball joint repeatedly. The key is to break the rust bond between the ball joint and the lower control arm.
Thanks for all of the advice guys. The job is finally done and the car is driving smooth. The only casualty was the boot of the lower control arm, where I accidentally pried it up and exposed that grease. I will be doing both axles with new replacements soon here, this was just to get me driving back to work asap with a cheap replacement.
Here's the old axle. You can tell the donut/harmonizer just traps that salt, dirt, and water. Yikes. I'm afraid to look under the one on the pass. side!
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
The 'ratchet handle' ball joint separation method got you moving forward again??
I forgot to add that I ended up bringing out the ol' farm socket set - a 1.5" thick, 2'+ long breaker, and i used the extension (maybe about a foot long?) to wedge into that gap, which 1.5" snugly fit. Then i used a full sized sledgehammer to bang it away. Took a few minutes, but size really does matter in this situation as I found out. What a waste of a trip to the auto parts store! lol
They say, to avoid this in future, for those that have the damper on the new axle shaft, to place a 'bead' of silicone or an equivalent around the rubber edges of the damper to seal out salt/grime intrusion.
Who is "they"? Do "they" really think a silicon bead will last more than a week? Just asking....
I forgot to add that I ended up bringing out the ol' farm socket set - a 1.5" thick, 2'+ long breaker, and i used the extension (maybe about a foot long?) to wedge into that gap, which 1.5" snugly fit. Then i used a full sized sledgehammer to bang it away. Took a few minutes, but size really does matter in this situation as I found out. What a waste of a trip to the auto parts store! lol
Well Done.
Improvise, adapt and overcome.
Gunny Highway would proudly say, OO-RAH!
I read it here somewhere, over the years, as a potential deterrent to a problem experienced for the northern folks.
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Do "they" really think a silicon bead will last more than a week? Just asking....
I hear you.
Logically thinking, if I lived up in your neck of the woods, maybe a better way of saying it could be: Would it hurt?
Practically, if I were to use this recommendation, I would clean the axle shaft area, around the damper, as thoroughly as possible with a solvent and then apply silicone, either in a 'bead' and/or slather said silicone around the rubber damper edges, let it fully cure and hope for the best. Figuring that anything that would hamper or slow down salt/grime intrusion would be a plus.
Or, if i need to transfer the existing one on my old axle onto this new one (which I don't know if that's common, or going to be a PITA)
Has anyone that's rebuilt their CV's - is this a difficult part to transfer over? I haven't done anything besides lay them down next to eachother in the garage for a second, so I'll take a closer look tonight. Thank for any input.
I'm a dumbass. I opened one box, forgetting that the right and left side are different. I def opened the pass side box. I'm sure the drivers side one is an exact replacement. Thanks for bringing that to light lmao.
According to DMZ, they are suitable inexpensive Chinese alternatives.
I am getting the wobbles around corners and accelerating around 20 mph. Thought about changing them out OEM is about $500 Shipped for both or go the $120 Shipped route.
I am getting the wobbles around corners and accelerating around 20 mph. Thought about changing them out OEM is about $500 Shipped for both or go the $120 Shipped route.
Like i said, I heard good things about these but I will also follow up once they're on the car.
I just gambled and bought a Surtrack/trakmotive drivers side axle on Rockauto. Will let you guys know how it goes.
Wanted to order APWI, but for some reason shipping was cheaper to order surtrack with the other parts i was getting. Only upside I guess is the Lifetime warranty with Surtrack/Trakmotive.
I skipped the Cardone as an option completely. Have read mixed things.
I am glad to hear that there is a "decent" axle option outside of OEM or Raxles
For sure, not me, but some guy I know whose name rhymes with mabosssauce has been able to cruise at over 100 smooth as butter, and has had the axles on the car for years now.
For sure, not me, but some guy I know whose name rhymes with mabosssauce has been able to cruise at over 100 smooth as butter, and has had the axles on the car for years now.
Good to know. And I just don't feel right waiting for OEM forever or dropping $800 for Raxles.
Good to know. And I just don't feel right waiting for OEM forever or dropping $800 for Raxles.
Raxles unfortunately are no longer in production. Insane Shafts are however. They are only $370 for a set if your running under 500WHP. $800 for 1000whp.
Raxles unfortunately are no longer in production. Insane Shafts are however. They are only $370 for a set if your running under 500WHP. $800 for 1000whp.
I contacted Raxles a few weeks ago and he said they're made to order or something. I'll consider insane too as I can get them on heel toe
I contacted Raxles a few weeks ago and he said they're made to order or something. I'll consider insane too as I can get them on heel toe
Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, and my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years, BOTH highly recommend AGAINST using rebuilt axles.
Why waste your money? Go with the replacements from rockuto! I have them and they work fine.
.
Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, and my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years, BOTH highly recommend AGAINST using rebuilt axles.
Why waste your money? Go with the replacements from rockuto! I have them and they work fine.
.
i had the same problem with my 2010 tl. the reason they wouldnt fit my car is because the automatic and manual axles are just slightly different. the bearing in my jack shaft, half shaft, whatever you prefer to call it, is going bad and causing a vibration at higher speeds. everytime i ordered the shaft, it was the wrong one, no matter where i got it. i kinda gave up on it too because i dont drive the car much and it isnt that bad yet but a bit annoying. so, if your ever changing your passenger axle, confirm it is for your type of transmission. side by side, they look identical too. but if you count the splines, they are not the same. maybe someone else already covered this but in case they didnt , here ya go
Here's to you getting long life from these APWI's.
