imdinky

This post is a bit long and confusing, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what went wrong. Let me run you through the step-by-step and see if you can offer any sort of advice. For reference, I have a 2007 Acura TL 3.2L Base (No Navigation)

After a 3 hour drive from St. Louis, MO back home to Springfield, MO, I was having some A/C issues. The temperature was 90 F all weekend and this wasn't a great time to have issues. I noticed my compressor leaking and took it to an A/C shop to get checked. The A/C shop I took it to said I was a pound low on refrigerant, so they charged my system back up for me. Hours later my compressor started leaking out of the pressure release again. Took it back to the A/C shop and they said I'd need a brand new compressor and it'd be a good idea to change out my condenser too. That night my battery died for no reason (this happens again later), so I charged it up on my battery charger and got the battery and alternator tested at a local AutoZone, since I bought them from there. They also checked the fluid in the battery and said it seemed okay. They said the battery and alternator were both 100%. A few days later, I did the work myself to replace the compressor (put in a Denso 471-1537) and condenser (Denso 477-0643), and there were no leaks in my system. Did a full evac and charged it up with a professional A/C machine (the back of my manual says it can take ~17 to ~19 oz of refrigerant, so to be on the safe side we put in 18oz.) It blew really cold air for awhile and I thought I had fixed everything. The next day my compressor started leaking again out of the pressure release valve on the bottom of it when I let my car idle for 5 minutes while waiting for a friend. I could tell because we had put dye in the system when we charged it back up and it was clearly coming from the pressure release valve. Drove home with the A/C off to prevent the compressor from leaking again. That night my battery wasn't fully dead, but the car wouldn't start. Threw it on the battery charger at 10A for about an hour and I went to check the battery and noticed the terminals were really hot. Once it was done, I went to connect the battery back to my car and got sparks off the terminals.(also, my battery has a lot of sloshing noises). I got the car started and moved it off my driveway and into the street in case something started leaking again. I had it idle for about 15 seconds in the street and the compressor started leaking once more, so I shut the car off immediately. And now this is where I'm at.

I've read a lot about the issue, but I'm so lost. I've read about relays getting stuck to cause a dead battery overnight, Based off some YouTube video I watched about bad relays, the relays I have seem perfectly fine. I checked the A/C compressor relay, A/C condenser relay, and also the A/C radiator relay, all click and none of them seem to have any bad resistance. Those were the only ones I checked. Does my battery sound like it's bad? Sloshing noises, got super hot on the charger, and won't hold a charge? Someone told me to start the car and disconnect the battery to see if the alternator was good, but I don't know if that's a safe thing to do). Could there be something else in my A/C system that's causing an issue? Or maybe it's just some bad fuse or relay somewhere and I'm wrong about those ones being good. I'm just worried that if I keep running the car, I'm going to damage it more if I can't find the issue quickly. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a basic timeline of some of the work I've done to the car
February 2017 - Put in brand new radiator since mine cracked and leaked transmission fluid everywhere
March 2017 - I put in brand new battery, alternator, and serpentine belt
April 2017 - Brand new condenser after a minor accident (whoops. Side note, everything worked amazing for a year after this replacement)
May 2018 - I put in brand new compressor and condenser (and I change out my air filters regularly as well)

Majofo

Unlikely they are related.

The compressor won't engage if it's too low so the A/C pulley should spin freely and not stress out the drivebelt.
Even if the compressor was dragging, you'd hear it slip the belt and you'd notice the effects of it.
Just to be safe, you can get an alternator and battery tester for real cheap.
Check battery condition, then check a/c off and a/c on at idle.

The only draw a compressor has is for the little electromagnet to engage the clutch.
There's a main relay in the top fusebox, if you checked resistance and continuity, it should be fine.
There is a specific value and test procedure listed in the service manual for the A/C relay.
Make sure you abide by it before crossing it off.

I can't see that as being a drain. I'm not even sure it's powered when the car is off.
You can pull the relay with the car off and check to see if it is a drain.

It could be a bad cell in the battery. If you test the system, and everything is fine, and your battery is properly charged.
Yet it's still discharging, it's more than likely a bad battery. Definitely get it replaced under warranty.
Most batteries hold out for 3 years, but it's not all that uncommon for one to die sooner.
Particularly under your set of circumstances with the car the past year. Plus hot summer.

Regarding your A/C issues, I'm a little lost here why a compressor and condenser were replaced
Especially with a new condenser already there. Did you replace all the o-rings and grease them with refrigerant oil?
Did you also remove the old refrigerant oil from the old compressor and then drain that same amount from the new compressor before install?
Did you add refrigerant oil to the condenser? Too much oil anywhere could unseat a seal.

Also, captain obvious here.. what is the high and low pressures at now?
Even though you evac'd and filled after install, air in the system can be causing spikes and cause refrigerant to dump as well.