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Issues with shifter & N and D light after new TRS/NSS
I’ll add my video showing some of the issue to this but basically I just recently installed a new transmission range switch/sensor. It is also apparently known as a neutral safety switch. Anyway, I followed the DIY for the 2007 TL S on here but instead of leaving it in park I followed the other DIYs and put it in neutral before following the guide as well as the OEM service manual. After install the car will go through all the gears correctly, but the N light and the D light wont light up on the dash but the gear will be engaged. You’ll have to watch my video to see what I mean. Not sure what to do here, I have a 5AT 2007 TL-S.
It also today after filling up at the gas station light up the D light when I was starting the car (when it was in park). Then the D light disappeared after a second.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I know I must have installed something wrong but I’ve retraced my steps and redid the installation process twice now and still the same result.
Is it possible that the trans. gear selection switch was damaged when leaving it in 'N', following the 'DIY' on here , versus it being in 'P', per the manual, when the battery was disconnected and then reconnected?
Is it possible that the trans. gear selection switch was damaged when leaving it in 'N', following the 'DIY' on here , versus it being in 'P', per the manual, when the battery was disconnected and then reconnected?
I doubt it, I’ve seen multiple people install the switch with the car in neutral. I could try reinstalling it in park possibly? I don’t know though for sure, just don’t think that would really negatively affect the switch in any way.
I would think so as well.
In the manual, it does not state at step #1 to place the car in 'park' specifically at the outset. You only find out later in step#15 when it tells you to move the control shaft from 'P' to 'N' by using a 6mm wrench.
Do you have the thread link to the 'DIY' you followed here?
I would think so as well.
In the manual, it does not state at step #1 to place the car in 'park' specifically at the outset. You only find out later in step#15 when it tells you to move the control shaft from 'P' to 'N' by using a 6mm wrench.
Do you have the thread link to the 'DIY' you followed here?
Thanks for the links.
What trans. issues / symptoms / codes were you experiencing that compelled you to replace the range switch?
I had the code P0706 I believe and I was experiencing a whole abundance of symptoms that compelled me to do the replacement. Erratic shifts, random shifting, etc
I have already replaced engine mounts, need to replace transmission mounts (got scammed by shop or else they would have been already done as well)
I did every transmission pressure switch as well (3rd and 4th) there’s 2 of one just can’t remember
The only other thing that is strange to me is before this job can be done, per the manual, is the car is placed in park, ignition is shut off. The ECU registers that the range switch & gear selection switch is in park. The battery is disconnected, power is lost to ECU. Repair takes place, new range switch is manually adjusted to 'N', the trans control shaft is manually adjusted from 'P' to 'N', to match the new range switch. Everything is reinstalled, the battery is reconnected, power restored to ECU; however, the gear shift is still in park when power is restored. Then in step#28, it instructs to turn the ignition to ON (II) and move the shift lever through all positions and check transmission synchronization. What light would be lit on the dash and on the gear selector before the shift lever was moved to check synchronization 'N' or 'P'?
The only other thing that is strange to me is before this job can be done, per the manual, is the car is placed in park, ignition is shut off. The ECU registers that the range switch & gear selection switch is in park. The battery is disconnected, power is lost to ECU. Repair takes place, new range switch is manually adjusted to 'N', the trans control shaft is manually adjusted from 'P' to 'N', to match the new range switch. Everything is reinstalled, the battery is reconnected, power restored to ECU; however, the gear shift is still in park when power is restored. Then in step#28, it instructs to turn the ignition to ON (II) and move the shift lever through all positions and check transmission synchronization. What light would be lit on the dash and on the gear selector before the shift lever was moved to check synchronization 'N' or 'P'?
The thing is the switch comes in neutral & the lines on the assembly line up for neutral. So I had used the key slot on gear selector to put the car in neutral with the parking brake up. Followed the DIY on here for the 07 TL-S just excluding the park adjustments or marking of anything. So basically mixing a portion of the other DIY I linked and that one.
When I turned on the car the first time I believe the light actually came up as D or maybe P instead of neutral at first I think D, not 100% sure I can’t remember. Then the lights would go blank, so I would shift it into drive and then you can follow up in the youtube video of what happens after that. So you’re on to something there, it came up as a different light N didn’t light up when I put the key to the 2nd run position.
It also today after filling up at the gas station light up the D light when I was starting the car (when it was in park). Then the D light disappeared after a second.
Mine does it too. P and D comes ON for a second every (?) time I turn the key to ON position.
It doesn't really matter how you replace the range switch. Hell do it in D if you desire so. Wrong would be rotating the range switch 180* or more (if possible). But since switch is keyed it doesn't matter between P/D/N whatever.
Also I believe switch has a mark for neutral position, so "most right" way of replacing it would be N.
Position of the shifter when reconnecting the battery doesn't matter. Car checks for the position, no for the event of changing the gear. Switch has a separate contact point for each gear position.
When you had no N light, and moved to R, N actually lit up for a brief moment.
Now do a little test:
If you cause the no "N" light situation, and move the shifter very slightly towards the R(but don't really move outside of N), does the N lights up?
If yes, then maybe the cable is the problem. Either links on the ends are worn out, or it's out of adjustment. It can be adjusted, but you will need to get to the shifter bottom.
Theory is that if you move from R, it's still within the region to engage the contacts, but if you move from D, it fall outside because of slack.
So, if the new range switch was set to neutral to match the trans control shaft as part of reassembly, then reconnected to the shift cable control lever and then you used the key slot to adjust the gear selector into neutral before turning the ignition to ON(II), you have a gear selector out of adjustment, perhaps?
Mine does it too. P and D comes ON for a second every (?) time I turn the key to ON position.
It doesn't really matter how you replace the range switch. Hell do it in D if you desire so. Wrong would be rotating the range switch 180* or more (if possible). But since switch is keyed it doesn't matter between P/D/N whatever.
Also I believe switch has a mark for neutral position, so "most right" way of replacing it would be N.
Position of the shifter when reconnecting the battery doesn't matter. Car checks for the position, no for the event of changing the gear. Switch has a separate contact point for each gear position.
When you had no N light, and moved to R, N actually lit up for a brief moment.
Now do a little test:
If you cause the no "N" light situation, and move the shifter very slightly towards the R(but don't really move outside of N), does the N lights up?
If yes, then maybe the cable is the problem. Either links on the ends are worn out, or it's out of adjustment. It can be adjusted, but you will need to get to the shifter bottom.
Theory is that if you move from R, it's still within the region to engage the contacts, but if you move from D, it fall outside because of slack.
Yes, I thought I showed it in the video but if I do what you say yes it’ll light up the N light and it will stay until I move it into D or whatever else.
Now I’m also experiencing no light on D when I put it into drive but the car is still in drive and I’ve driven it without it. So I’m assuming I must have messed with it and caused it to go out of adjustment. I’m sorry to ask to be spoon fed here but do you know what I should do then to readjust the cable?
Thanks OP for the mental gymnastics this issue presented. It was a thorough learning experience, indeed.
Looking back over this thread, to say the least, if I ever get a P0706 and have to grapple with this f-tard trans. range switch replacement, I'll know what NOT to do!
Thanks OP for the mental gymnastics this issue presented. It was a thorough learning experience, indeed.
Looking back over this thread, to say the least, if I ever get a P0706 and have to grapple with this f-tard trans. range switch replacement, I'll know what NOT to do!
hahaha, yeah this has been a fun experience lol at least i’ve hopefully been pointed in the right direction or the solution, I believe it will be the shift cable that is causing the problem.
Shift cable adjustment did not fix the issue sadly, ended up having a honda master tech look over it and used some type of tool to check the sensor I guess it was off in the very very slightest. All he did was adjust it and it was fixed.
So I guess it was my bad! Whoops, thanks for all the help everyone.
