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Hello, Everyone
I just realized that my car is leaking gas from the tank. Have any of you had this problem before any help figuring what could it be?
Thanks,
What annoys me is I didn't even know any manufacturer in the world still used steel tanks back in the early 2000s; I mean, I'm like 95% sure every other car we've owned since the early 1990s had plastic gas tanks.
Kind of odd. You would think, it would be more likely to rust through, under, or near the edge of the strap. Any other significant rust issues on your car?
I've been for the most part staying ahead of it but I did have some rust in the rear floor pan and of course some around the lip of both rear wheel wells. The factory underbody rust proofing is starting to get brittle and crack which allows moisture to get trapped, thus the floor pan issue. I took care of it but was a real PIA. Other than that the car is in pretty good shape.
"RUST NEVER SLEEPS" Since my car lives near the Mason Dixon line, I'm right on the fringe of the rust belt. my car does have a a rust issue at the right rear wheel well lip, but no other rust evident. I have removed the rear seat, and carpet to check, but no rust viable. Fingers crossed.
I had the same issue with my '00 TL, if I filled my tank more than 2/3 the gas smell was so strong I had to park my car outside for fear of detonation! I had the tank replaced at a local shop I trust (not a dealer) - $425 parts and 6 hours labor.
That's what I did. Surprisingly, they aren't all that expensive. Just a PIA to remove and replace
What did you use to coat the fuel tank? Rubberized Asphalt undercoating spray or Krown or something?
So disappointing to find out my fuel tank is leaking after spending a good chunk of change on an exhaust upgrade, I would've fixed the fuel tank first had I known.
I'm also surprised the fuel vapors didn't throw evap codes.
What did you use to coat the fuel tank? Rubberized Asphalt undercoating spray or Krown or something?
So disappointing to find out my fuel tank is leaking after spending a good chunk of change on an exhaust upgrade, I would've fixed the fuel tank first had I known.
I'm also surprised the fuel vapors didn't throw evap codes.
The new tank on my Accord didn't need any additional coating; the tanks come pre-coated from the factory and it looks like the new tanks have additional coating layers in rust prone areas.
The new tank on my Accord didn't need any additional coating; the tanks come pre-coated from the factory and it looks like the new tanks have additional coating layers in rust prone areas.
Did you get the OEM tank or a good aftermarket one?
Also is it recommended to replace the fuel sender, fuel pump and internal filter while the fuel tank is out as a preventative measure?
I ended up with a Honda tank; couldn't find an aftermarket one. I simply reused the pump and filter as the car only had 190,000 miles on the clock when the tank started leaking.
I ended up with a Honda tank; couldn't find an aftermarket one. I simply reused the pump and filter as the car only had 190,000 miles on the clock when the tank started leaking.
Sounds good, I'll still probably replace the internal filter and strainer since they're still original and the car has over 262k on it. I'll leave the pump and sending unit alone if I can't find an oem one for cheap then.
Clear coat or Rubberised Ashphalt coating or both?
So I just ordered the new tank from Spectra part# HO14A.
im just wondering what's the best way to coat these tanks so that it lasts as long as possible and that the coating doesn't wear off quickly.
Should I spray the tank with clear coat or rubberised asphalt coating and paint?
or clear coat the metal then spray the asphalt coating?
Is there anyway to confirm a rusted tank, without dropping the entire tank? (E.G. smoke test?) I've looked for visible leaks underneath but didn't see anything obvious.
My 2000 TL has lived in NJ all of it's 183K miles, I have a P1457 "leak in EVAP system" and sometimes get wiffs of VERY strong gas walking around the car, and I'd rather not drop the tank until I'm 200% positive there's a hole in in.
To the people wishing to extend the life of new tanks; the old ones have already lasted 16-18years. Are you guys honestly looking to keep this car an additional 18yrs?
Is there anyway to confirm a rusted tank, without dropping the entire tank? (E.G. smoke test?) I've looked for visible leaks underneath but didn't see anything obvious.
My 2000 TL has lived in NJ all of it's 183K miles, I have a P1457 "leak in EVAP system" and sometimes get wiffs of VERY strong gas walking around the car, and I'd rather not drop the tank until I'm 200% positive there's a hole in in.
To the people wishing to extend the life of new tanks; the old ones have already lasted 16-18years. Are you guys honestly looking to keep this car an additional 18yrs?
Mine was very obvious; fill the tank, observe puddle under the tank.
Just bought a 2001 from a "friend." Noticed the tank was 1/4 full when test driving. After I bought it and filled it up, noticed the puddle of gas. I was hopeful it was filler neck, but it's definitely coming from the top of the tank. After it goes down 5gal. the leaking stops.
Doing the rear brakes and eyeing the suspension, but it is rusted to hell.
Would you guys fill it 1/2 - 2/3 full and continue driving it?
I was under the impression that the most difficult part of dropping the rear suspension was disconnecting the struts, which requires you to remove the rear seats. Can anyone else verify?
The fuel tank is integrated with the rear subframe. It drops as one giant piece.
I personally wouldn't ignore any problems on this car unless you aren't planning on keeping it long term.
Hmmm, I rather doubt the rear seats need to come out of the car to remove the rear suspension; I know the seats in my 2001 Accord didn't need removal and it is virtually the same car as the 2G TL.
I was under the impression that the most difficult part of dropping the rear suspension was disconnecting the struts, which requires you to remove the rear seats. Can anyone else verify?
The fuel tank is integrated with the rear subframe. It drops as one giant piece.
I personally wouldn't ignore any problems on this car unless you aren't planning on keeping it long term.
Is there anyway to confirm a rusted tank, without dropping the entire tank? (E.G. smoke test?) I've looked for visible leaks underneath but didn't see anything obvious.
My 2000 TL has lived in NJ all of it's 183K miles, I have a P1457 "leak in EVAP system" and sometimes get wiffs of VERY strong gas walking around the car, and I'd rather not drop the tank until I'm 200% positive there's a hole in in.
To the people wishing to extend the life of new tanks; the old ones have already lasted 16-18years. Are you guys honestly looking to keep this car an additional 18yrs?
Recently went through a P1457 evap system issue. I found the purge valve, mounted on the canister, near the left rear wheel, to be inoperative. If your issue, is also this purge valve, I recommend, the purchase of the two purge valve mounting screws, prior to replacement. If your car is operated in the rust belt, these screws will most likely be badly rusted, and difficult to remove! NOTE; A smoke test, is the best method to thoroughly check the system. Would be fairly easy , to smoke test the fuel tank, as well, just to confirm a rust through issue.
Just bought a 2001 from a "friend." Noticed the tank was 1/4 full when test driving. After I bought it and filled it up, noticed the puddle of gas. I was hopeful it was filler neck, but it's definitely coming from the top of the tank. After it goes down 5gal. the leaking stops.
Doing the rear brakes and eyeing the suspension, but it is rusted to hell.
Would you guys fill it 1/2 - 2/3 full and continue driving it?
In a nut shell, NEVER! This is a very Dangerous Issue! Even barring a collision, any externally produced spark, and or small flame,could have really bad consequences.