I am currently researching the differences in the wiring harnesses between model years for the purpose of manual swaps. I know the swap has been done multiple times before, but I've never seen anyone do a deep dive into the wiring. I just bought a year-long alldata subscription so I figured I'd share my findings. I can upload some of the connector pinouts in a Google drive if anyone's interested. Below, I have listed everything on the dash harness that is different between Type-S, A/T, M/T, 01-02, and 2003 models.

The 2003 model seems to be plug and play with the manual harnesses, however the following most be done for the 01-02 models to be compatible:
- Find a way to connect the new dash harness to the cars existing SRS harness (this issue concerns me) (affected connectors: SRS Unit Connector C, C801)
- Create an adapter, or otherwise hack the left side harness to the dashboard harness (affected connectors: C551, C554)
- Find out what the additional driver position memory system (DPMS) pins do on the 03 harness and wire it to the existing driver's door harness accordingly (I only have the wiring diagram for the 2003 models for DPMS system) (affected connectors: C701)
- Determine whether the dash harness connects to the right side harness properly (affected connectors: C582)
- Swap out the dashboard to passenger's door harness connector from the old harness onto the new one (affected connectors: C751)

Dashboard Harness B (Left Branch)
Reference #12 - Steering Angle Sensor (VSA only)
Reference #6 - Connector 302 [to left engine harness] (VSA only)

Dashboard Harness B (Right Branch)
Reference #18 - Radiator fan control module (A/T only)
Reference #14 - Connector 203 [to right engine harness] (Different connector for VSA; pin 1 is wired to circuit 44 only on 03 CL-P)
Reference #6 - Connector 402 [to dashboard harness A] (Different connector for all 03 models: fuse 10 is for navi, pin 7 is wired to fuse 1 instead, pin 16 is wired to circuit 60 for navi)

Dashboard Harness A (Left Branch)
Reference #3 - Cruise Control/TCS/VSA (Removes TCS/VSA switch)
Reference #20 - Driver Seat Heater Switch (Relocated)
Reference #18 - ECM Connector A (03 only)
Reference #26 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (VSA only)
Reference #41 - Memory Erase Signal Connector (03 only)
Reference #19 - Passenger Seat Heater Switch (Relocated)
Reference #42 - Parking Brake Switch
Reference #25 - SRS Unit Connector C (03 only)
Reference #33 - Connector 551 [to left side harness] (Different connector for all 03 models, multiple changes)
Reference #35 - Connector 554 [to left side harness] (03 only, splits up C551)
Reference #38 - Connector 701 [to driver's door harness] (Different connector for all 03 models, has additional driver position memory system pins)
Reference #14 - Connector 801 [to SRS main harness] (Different connector for all 03 models)
Reference #22 - Connector 851 [to rear accessory power] (Heated seat switches)

Dashboard Wire Harness A (Right Branch)
Reference #8 - Connector 205 [to right engine harness] (VSA only)
Reference #2 - Connector C402 [to dashboard harness B] (See reference #6 under dashboard harness B (right branch))
Reference #10 - Connector C582 [to right side harness] (Different pinout for all 03 models: first 3 pins to Fuse 9, Fuse 5, and Fuse 6 respectively; pins 4-7 reserved for VSA)
Reference #7 - Connector 751 [to passenger's door harness] (Different connector for all 03 models: pins 1 and 2 reserved for OnStar)

 

I have detailed wiring references for auto, manual harnesses. Had to do a lot of research for my accord 4cyl 5spd to CLS 6spd swap years ago. Started off with CLS6 eng harness and integrated with accord dash and interior harnesses. Over time switched to CL dash, interior and auto engine harness for motor builds/standalone ecu. I also recently wired up my 00 prelude for a j35. Lot of tedious research, cutting and soldering wires... That said, no one here seems to do any serious builds anymore. So, not sure who'd really be interested.

 

Tedious work indeed but I also find enjoyment in it for whatever reason. Now, an update on my research for the very few people interested: the reason for the extra DPMS pins on C701 is the simple fact that the door multiplex control unit is responsible for dealing with memory seat selections on the 01-02 models, while the driver's power seat control unit carries that burden on 03 models. For anyone wondering, the door multiplex control unit is actually part of the window button assembly on the driver's side (no wonder the connector is so large.) Since the memory selections go straight to the door multiplex unit (on the same harness), there is no need to connect it to the dash or side harness on the 01-02 models. Instead, the door multiplex control unit communicates with the driver multiplex control unit after which the driver multiplex control unit uses a communication line to the driver's power seat control unit to initiate the change.

In simpler terms
01-02
Memory seat button -> door multiplex control unit -> driver multiplex control unit -> circuit X03 communication line -> driver's power seat control unit
03
Memory seat button -> driver's power seat control unit

 

Let's test your resolve with a wiring challenge then...
Running 03 cls 6spd interior harness on 01 accord coupe, cls dash, cls seats... Using either accord or cls driver door harness, master switch, modules and passenger window switch, driver's switch panel will not control the passenger window. But, one can lean over and use the passenger switch and it works fine. Where's the issue?

 

That's an interesting issue for sure; looking at the circuit description, when you use the master window switch there is a series of things that happens:
1. The door multiplex control unit sends a signal to the driver's multiplex control unit through the brown wire in the connector.
2. The driver's multiplex control unit sends a signal to the passenger's multiplex control unit through the pink data line. This is part of circuit X03 which I mentioned earlier.
3. The passengers multiplex control unit controls the window using either the blue down, or blue/yellow up wires.

Which of these is the issue is hard to say.

Now for an update on my research. It turns out the passenger side relay box from 01-02 models are not compatible with the 03 dash harness. The connectors themselves are the same, but the fuses which are used for a few components are actually different.
- 03 models have the door multiplex control unit on fuse 1 instead of fuse 15 (this information is from the service manual, but after looking at wiring diagrams, I think the 03 model has the door multiplex control unit on fuse 8 and the power window control unit on fuse 1)
- 03 models have the moonroof motor on fuse 7 instead of fuse 1
- 03 models have the moonroof open/close relays on fuse 8 instead of fuse 15

The solution for this would be to create some adapters from the new harness to the old passenger's fuse box.

 

I love reading this kind of stuff, you guys are great!
I just wish I had the depth to grasp / retain / put to use these types of electrical analytical skill sets.

 

Not sure if you're talking about my window issue or the 01-02 to 03 wiring stuff.

In any case, I should clarify that I have the CLS 6spd dash harnesses, underdash fuse boxes and underhood fuse box. Basically the whole dash and wiring were swapped out.

The accord definitely uses less electronics on the driver door than the cl. Likely due to lack of memory settings and less complex mirrors.

My theory on the window issue is that switching being done on the master switch is not getting all the way through the dash to the other side. I was thinking of trying to run a wire under the dash, to basically remote mounting another switch. But, it's more of an annoying issue than a real problem. So, I just drive it as is.

 

Everything before my "update" was in relation to the issue you described. You did use the master and passenger window switches from the CL correct?
If you did there only 4 things I can think of being the issue:
- The door multiplex control unit is not connected to the driver multiplex control unit via the brown wire in the driver's door harness.
- The driver multiplex control unit and passenger multiplex control unit aren't connected via the pink BUS wire.
- The passenger multiplex control unit isn't connected to the passenger window switch via the blue and blue/yellow wires.
- One of the multiplex units are broken or otherwise incompatible.

 

Here's my pretty much complete guide to retrofitting an 03 harness into 01-02 cars. This doesn't include the SRS connectors because I haven't looked into that yet. Additionally, I have no clue if this would actually work, but if I ever do this swap myself at least I have this to reference.

C551
Connects dashboard wire harness A (left branch) to left side wire harness. To make the legacy left side connector work with the new dash harness, it is necessary to depin the new C551, and C554 connectors, and replace them with the legacy C551 connector.

Legacy Side -> New Side
1 WHT -> [C554] 3 WHT (Circuit 250)
2 RED -> [C554] 1 RED (Fuse 2 - Passenger’s)
3 LT/GRN/WHT -> [C551] 1 LT/GRN/WHT (Evaporative emission system)
4 BLU -> [C551] 10 BLU (Evaporative emission system)
5 LT GRN -> [C551] LT GRN (Evaporative emission system)
6 BLK -> [C551] 2 BLK (G501)
7 WHT/BLU (Seat Heaters) -> [C554] 5 BLK (G501)
8 BLU/WHT -> [C551] 3 BLU/WHT (Circuit E93)
9 WHT (Circuit M34) -> [C551] 8 Male - YEL, Female - WHT (Circuit M05)
10 PNK -> [C551] 9 PNK (Circuit X03)
11 BLU/GRN -> [C551] 12 BLU/GRN (Security alarm system)
12 BLU -> [C554] 2 BLU (Fuse 4 - Passenger’s)
13 WHT/GRN -> [C551] 13 WHT/GRN (Safety Indicator)
14 GRY/BLK -> [C551] 14 GRY/BLK (Stereo sound system)
15 BLU/GRN -> [C551] 15 BLU/GRN (Stereo sound system)
16 BLU/RED -> [C551] 16 BLU/RED (Circuit 198)
17 YEL/BLU -> [C551] 17 YEL/BLU (Gauges and indicators)
18 ORN -> [C551] 18 ORN (Circuit 178)
19 WHT/RED -> [C554] 4 WHT/RED (Seat Heaters)
20 NONE
21 BLU/BLK (Circuit M35) -> [C551] 20 Male - GRN/RED, Female - BLU/BLK (Circuit 207)
22 BLK -> [C551] 21 BLK (G503)

Unused from new harness
[C551] 4 YEL (DPMS)
[C551] 5 YEL/WHT (DPMS)
[C551] 6 LT BLU (DPMS)
[C551] 7 BLU/YEL (DPMS)
[C551] 19 RED/GRN (DPMS)


C701
Connects dashboard wire harness A (left branch) to driver’s door wire harness. To make the legacy driver’s door connector work with the new harness, it is necessary to depin the new C701 connector and replace it with the legacy C701 connector.

Legacy Side -> New Side
1 RED/BLK -> [C701] 4 RED/BLK (Circuit 11)
2 PUR -> [C701] 5 PUR (DPMS)
3 BLU/BLK -> [C701] 6 BLU/BLK (DPMS)
4 RED/BLK -> [C701] 7 RED/BLK (DPMS)
5 BLU/ORN -> [C701] 8 BLU/ORN (DPMS)
6 BLU/GRN -> [C701] 9 BLU/GRN (DPMS)
7 RED -> [C701] 13 RED (Circuit 12)
8 ORN -> [C701] 14ORN (DPMS)
9 BLU/RED -> [C701] 15 BLU/RED (DPMS)
10 RED/WHT-> [C701] 16 RED/WHT (DPMS)
11 BRN/WHT -> [C701] 17 BRN/WHT (DPMS)
12 BRN -> [C701] 18 BRN (DPMS)
13 GRN/WHT -> [C701] 19 GRN/WHT (DPMS)
14 GRY -> [C701] 20 GRY (DPMS)

Unused from new harness
[C701] 1 YEL/WHT (DPMS)
[C701] 2 YEL (DPMS)
[C701] 3 RED/GRN (DPMS)
[C701] 10 BLU/BLK (Fuse 8 - Passenger’s)
[C701] 11 LT BLU (DPMS)
[C701] 12 BLU/YEL (DPMS)

C582
Connects dashboard wire harness A (right branch) to right side wire harness. The connector should be plug and play.

C751
Connects dashboard wire harness A (right branch) to passenger’s door wire harness. To make the legacy passenger’s door connector work with the new harness, it is necessary to depin the new C751 connector and replace it with the legacy C751 connector.

Legacy Side -> New Side
1 GRN -> [C751] 3 GRN (DPMS)
2 GRN/RED -> [C751] 4 GRN/RED (DPMS)
3 BRN/WHT -> [C751] 5 BRN/WHT (DPMS)
4 RED/BLK -> [C751] 6 RED/BLK (DPMS)

Unused from new harness
[C751] 1 ORN (OnStar System) *Navigation
[C751] 2 BLK/BLU (OnStar system) * Navigation

Passengers Fuse Box Connectors
Connections for passenger’s fuse/relay box. To make the new harness work with the legacy fuse box, it is necessary to swap a few pins between connectors on the new harness.

NOTE: The description on the last 2 may not be accurate, unsure which goes to the moonroof relays and which to the power windows.

[Connector G] 10 GRN (Fuse 7 - Passenger’s) -> [Connector G] 3 (Fuse 1 - Passenger’s) [to moonroof motor]
[Connector G] 3 GRN/WHT (Fuse 1 - Passenger’s) -> [Connector I] 10 (Fuse 15 - Passenger’s) [to door multiplex control unit]
[Connector G] 12 BLU/BLK (Fuse 8 - Passenger’s) -> [Connector I] 10 (Fuse 15 - Passenger’s) [to moonroof open/close relays]
[Connector E] 20 BLU/BLK (Fuse 8 - Passenger’s) -> [Connector I] 10 (Fuse 15 - Passenger’s) [to power windows]

 

Yes, I did. But, the driver side door harness, modules and master switch were from another cl. I sold the original donor car for my swap with those parts still installed.

Btw, thanks for the help. I'll try to check the suggested wires.

 

No problem, if you need any of the wiring diagrams I can send them to you.

Unrelated, but has anyone tried to hack a 2004 TL center console and shifter bezel into a CL? I was comparing the CL center console to other cars and the TL looks to be the most similar. If I get a chance, I might buy one from a junkyard. The yard actually has a 2G TL so maybe I can just do the comparison in the yard.

 

I have some more unrelated nonsense I'd like to share with you guys. I spent some time looking for potential solutions to the cneter console issues that come with the manual swap. One potential solution is to swap the entire dashboard/steering hanger with one from a 6G Accord. This seems like the most plug and play solution but I for one am not fond of the idea of a CL with an Accord interior. So I continued down the rabbit hole and found Yungone501's 6G Accord with a 3G TL dashboard. Now of course, this required some modification but it led me to start looking for other dashboards that would fit older cars like the Accord and CL. The criteria being the dash had to a) look good b) come in a manual variant, and c) not look terrible with the rest of the interior. In my opinion, the interior of the 1st gen TSX somewhat meets these criteria. Not only that, but it might actually fit the CL.





Those mounting points sure do look similar. But anyways, I'm getting ahead of myself; I need to start planning an actual build...

 

That TSX dash does look nice.


Other than the 'dated' look of the 2G dash / interior, can you remind us again of the specific '...cneter console issues that come with the manual swap' you are referring to?

 

+1, cupholder maybe?

I meant to ask why you were inquiring about Yungone501's steering wheel swap. Obviously, it was a unique build in that he modified the car to a more modern j series engine while also integrating 3g tl dash and electronics. But, the interior really doesn't need to be modified that extensively to run a manual. Idk if you saw any of my original 6GA swap thread. But, I first used the CLS 6spd engine harness w/ stock 6GA 4cyl interior harness and electronics to run the CLS6 ecu.

Below is a few pics of the original j32a2 engine, comptech sc and 6spd trans, which worked flawlessly off the stock ecu, while still retaining all the original dash and associated electronics of the accord ( i.e abs, srs, hvac, pwr seats, pwr windows, sunroof, pwr mirrors.)

 

Yea I was talking about the cupholder/handbrake situation, I have no clue where to find it and I'm sure there's a long list of people looking to buy one. Also, if I'm taking the dashboard out might as well swap it with one that looks better to me.

Good point, I was just now thinking about how similar the harnesses probably are between the manual and automatic CL that's it became kind of hard to justify spending so much money replacing them. However, using the manual dash harness definitely feels like the more legitimate way of doing the swap. Maybe I need to consider a 3G TL ECU because the harnesses are likely more affordable; but at that point it truly becomes a wiring nightmare. Also, you have a pretty sweet build, I'll have to take a look at your thread..

Now the reason I was asking about the steering wheel swap was because I like the look of that wheel and it just so happened that it's been done before. I also managed to find a picture of his build with the steering wheel before the dashboard was swapped.

I don't think it looks bad at all, a little out of place maybe. Now for a riddle: the 6G Accord uses 2 bolts to fasten the dashboard on the driver's side, the CL uses 4; how many does the TSX use? That's right 3. Honda must've been looking for a way to make this impossible. Anyways, the more important question is if any of the bolts actually line up. If you haven't noticed, I have no clue what I actually want to do with my CL, probably won't be selling it any time this decade though.

 

Understood.

I was able to source 77230-S3M-A01ZA cup holder assembly, via a member here who knew of one, on ebay.
For the manual CL-S6 parking brake, I had to get a little more creative to source. Ultimately ended up finding an intact CL-S6, somewhere in BFE Tennessee IIRC'ly via car-part.com. Called up the owner and told him I only needed the PB lever assembly. He was reluctant to just sell that piece; however, with a little back and forth he relented due to the lack of traffic at his salvage yard during the height of COVID.
It all ended up in my automatic CL-S below:

 

I do like the more modern dash. But, the 3G TLS ecus and harnesses are not as abundant as one might think. Esp since hondata released their jswap ecu package. Which relies on having several of the TLS specific harnesses and acceleration pedal position sensor.

Believe me, I know how it goes with not knowing what to do when it comes to a major project. My 6th gen went missing for quite a while after lending to a friend, and ended up being found in Phoenix with a seized H series motor and some cosmetic damage. It sat for about a year before I decided what to do with it, which was the j32 swap.

As for the auto and manual harnesses, I am very familiar with the engine bay wiring differences having converted from manual to auto harness and sensors. The auto has much more wiring running to the same placea. i.e c101 & c102 plugs, transmission and the auto ecu. The manual obviously lacks vsa, and all the solenoids for the auto trans. My point to all this is, the auto engine harness can be used to run a manual. Although, there is at least one ecu plug that has to be swapped if you plan to run the cls6 ecu.

As for manual swaps in general, it really comes down to what ecu you are planning to run, if you want it to drive like a factory car and if it needs to pass emissions. The more flexible you are the easier the swap can be.

 

Zeta with the pristine interior.

 

Man finding these parts sounds more difficult than the swap itself lmao, hopefully I can find an alternative solution. While we're on this topic, I bought the TL shifter bezel and heres a picture if it side by side with the one in my CL.

Notice the one from the TL goes further back by a few inches. Im not sure if it would even fit with the center console from the TL. Another thing to consider is that the console side trim would not be compatible between the cars, nor would the woodgrain accent pieces. Half the trim would need to be from the CL and the other half would need to be from the TL.

Also, I was wrong about the 6G Accord having only 2 bolts on the driver side dashboard, It has 4 just like the CL. It appears the 3G TL and 1G TSX share a similar bolt pattern for the dash, so using a TSX dashboard would require the same amount of modification as Yungone501's swap. I wish the newer cars had the same bolt pattern.

Hm, I think the most cost effective solution would be making a custom harness out of the harness I already have. I'm still not sure which ECU I wanna go for. Using the newer TL ECU adds a lot of flexibility in terms of tuning and engine compatibility.

 

I have seen a CLS6 hand brake FS on ebay from time to time. Cupholders not so much.

Funny I still have my original 6GA dash, under dash harnesses, hvac units and frame in a spare room. Also have a CLS6 ecu, engine harness, and mt sensors all chillin. Not sure I'll ever use any of it. But, who knows...still have another car that could use a j swap.

I have been considering an ft450/ft550 ecu myself. Haltech is another trending option. Just no time or spare funds atm.

 

Thank you for this thread, been reading through it like crazy and managed to get most things up and running on my CL-S 6mt swapped '02 TL. I took the long route and took all wiring from an auto '03 CL-S and threw it into the TL so now no power goes to the rear doors lol. However I'm stuck at a crossroads right now because my power windows are acting strange. The driver side window works, the sunroof works, but the passenger side window doesn't. I have continuity between all wires from the passenger window switch to the passenger side fuse box and thought that the passenger side multiplex unit had to be replaced after testing with a few known good switches I have lying around. The motor isn't bad because I can still operate it when touching the negative and positive ends of my drill battery and there is continuity in the wires from the switch to the motor. When checking voltage, I only get 12V to the blue/black wire in the passenger switch and no voltage from the others. The other funny thing is that the driver side window will only work if I use the original TL master switch and I get no operation if I use a CL master switch. The green lights underneath the switches in the master unit light up when the main switch is flipped to the "ON" position, and the green light under the passenger side switch will light up if I press it while the main switch is in the "ON" position. I was wondering if anybody here has ran into similar problems with these cars? Also would the multiplex units need to be programed when they're replaced? I've been trying to get my passenger side window working for so long now with no luck to be had anywhere. Everything else works, door locks, the bulb on the inside of the door, except for the passenger power window. I have access to ShopKey only, so I'm wondering if the wiring diagram on alldata would be any different from this.

 

Well I finally figured out my issue. I've been trying to use the original TL passenger window switch when I need to use a window switch from an 03 CL because I swapped all of the wiring from a manual CL into a TL. That explains why just the passenger side has issues. Since replacing it, it also works from the master switch as well. Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to go about wiring in the rear windows to have full functionality.

 

First of all, sorry about the late reply. It's interesting that you and 619rcr are having a similar issue, wonder if it's a coincidence. So, did you end up using the door harness from the CL or did you keep the one from the TL? If you're still using the old door harness, it's not gonna work with the CL master switch because the master switch (a.k.a door multiplex control unit) is different between those years. The door multiplex control unit from the 03 CL utilizes the power window control unit to make the driver's windows roll back down if it pinches something. If I remember correctly, the 02 TL doesn't have this feature nor does it have the power window control unit. Now I'm becoming concerned about the compatibility of the multiplex control units with each other across model years. From a wiring standpoint, the the door multiplex control unit is the only that changed from 02 to 03, but whose to say whether they are compatible in terms of software. Someone would need to test this out at some point. But anyways, your issue with the passenger window switch isn't related to the multiplex control unit because it is directly connected to the regulator through the relay. Are you using the 02 TL fuse box, and if so did you rewire the connectors like I mentioned in my post to account for the changes that were made to the fuses? If you decided to use the 03 CL fuse box, you would have to wire it differently but I haven't done any research on that. Also, have you checked whether the power window relay is getting power? You should also check if the relay is getting activated when the switch is pressed. Maybe take the relay out and check for continuity in the fuse box while pressing the switch? Your issue lies somewhere between the passenger window switch, the passenger side fuse box, and the window regulator.

Edit: Just saw your reply, glad you got it working.

 

Also, it's strange that the switches aren't compatible, it seems like such a simple part to have changed between the TL and CL. I would've thought the old switch was broken. And can I ask what your plan is with the rear windows? I'm intrigued.

 

Yeah I thought I was going crazy when everything checked out fine. I was getting normal continuity from the brown and pink wires and ample voltage so there's no issue with communications. I also had many different TL passenger front switches on hand and it still didn't work. All other systems worked, except for the passenger front window, and I've swapped multiplexes many a time thinking that was the issue and I kept getting bad units. I only had luck when I swapped in a fuse box and multiplex unit from an '03 CL. Thankfully it didn't have to be manual and any multiplex unit from 03 will work if it is a base, type-s A/T, or M/T. The 02 and 03 TLs do have the pinch feature and the control unit box is pinned out the same as the 03 CL box too. Currently using all wiring and fuse boxes from an 03 CL and no re-wiring had to be done, except for adding a blu/blk wire to the passenger door subharness at connecter "E" pin #20 since the base TL doesn't have that wire as opposed to the CL. Before that I would get no power or function at all to the sunroof or windows. I found that the wires are routed differently from 01-02 CL's. I wonder if 619's issue is related to him not using door harnesses + the driver window control unit from an 03 CL, since he didn't specify what year the harnesses were pulled from. But yeah it is weird that using a CL switch specifically was the answer, but now we know lol.

Currently I don't have a plan on the rear windows as I haven't looked at the schematics yet because my brain is absolutely fried from figuring out my passenger window for the past month or so. I currently have a 03 CL master switch installed so I guess I could start by seeing if the original TL master switch can still operate the front two windows. When using the original TL master switch, the driver front window still worked and the pinch function worked too, even with the 03CL door harness hooked up. If it can still operate the passenger side window, then I'll take a look at the schematic to try and modify the original rear door harnesses to tap into the existing CL harnesses. If not, then oh well. Wire up the rear door locks and I'll have a 4 door coupe.

 

Hey guys, can anyone tell me what pin is used for cruise control on the 6spd? Looking at the service manual, there's only a troubleshooting section for the A/T which states there's a BLU/GRN wire going from the CC unit to the PCM Connector A Pin #5 (CRS). There isn't an explanation for the 6spd.
I don't know which pin the 6spd is using for (CRS) from the Cruise control unit to ECM and was hoping you guys could provide some insight.

 

This diagram doesn't show a wire going to the ECM for the M/T, so I'm confused on how the crusie control system works on the 6spd cars

 

Hi there! Im wondering if anyone has a radio wiring diagram for a 2003 CL 3.2 type s. Bose but no nav.

 

Not sure if this does you any good, though, it was all I could find in the FSM?

 

YES! I have been looking for that on google for days! Thank you so much!

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the SRS for a 2001 Acura CL or service manual

 

Reviving a dead thread here, but I think I came to a realization. Almost 2 years later and I still have no progress on the rear doors as I have just been driving the TL around in all of its 6 speed goodness. Anyway I wired up the original TL driver door wire harness with the original TL master switch and the front windows still worked. Where I ran into an issue and things stopped working and got weird was when I experimented with the passenger front wire harness. I put the original TL front passenger door harness back in, repinned and swapped the white connector from the CL passenger door harness to the TL passenger harness so it can plug into one of the dash connectors. I connected everything back together and now only the passenger window works from the passenger switch. When I get more time I'll swap back in the CL door harness and hopefully I remember to provide an update.

 

@broly

If you need advice / help regarding 6MT 'swap' wiring, try PM'ing the forum member below.

He is the ONLY individual who has recently performed a manual CL-S swap to a 2G TL-S left on this forum who is somewhat active here.
Good Luck!

 

You picked a great time to revive the thread because I just started my CL for the first time in almost a year and a half. The alternator and battery unfortunately kicked the bucket so I had to replace those. I also got some rear break pads and rotors that were delivered today, so I will be doing that when I get to the house tomorrow.

I considered keeping the car as a restoration project but it's not a type-S and the body is in shit condition, meaning the only way forward (at least in my mind) is to buy a body in better condition. I would want the J32A2 with the type-S ECU, so my brand new alternator and fuel pump would be incompatible. All in all the car is a terrible candidate for a restoration, so I'm pretty much set on selling it. It will probably go another 50k miles without major issues, which is why I decided not to junk it before replacing the alternator.

While working on it, I came to the realization that I enjoy being in toxic relationships with unreliable cars, so I think my next project will be a BMW.

As for your issue with the power windows, I can honestly say I have no recollection of the wiring despite creating this thread. I just remember that there were some compatibility differences between the multiplex control units that I failed to fully account for when creating this thread (specifically that the 01-02 CL under dash multiplex units were a different part number than 03.) I have no idea, how, if at all, this affects your power window issue. Sorry I can't be of much assistance on the issue now but I hope you get it straightened out.

 

Thanks zeta if I happen to run into any new snags in the road I'll shoot him a message! I still got some things I want to experiment and I just so happened to figure out my issue at hand just a few minutes ago.

 

No worries man I kinda figured it was a long shot to have someone recollect their memory of this thread all these years later. Found out and experimented just now and got things working again. Also if it makes you feel better about your situation, I swapped my TL-P with CL-S6 motor and my original fuel pump is still going strong. Best of luck to you and your future projects!

 

tbh it doesn't really matter if you pick a type S or non type S project car. @Karanx7 's own experience showed that there are advantages to the non-S, such as having certain pins wired to the right connector.

most people change the motor anyways, so i wouldn't focus too much on that.

regarding the type S ecu, you'll _need_ the 6MT ecu one waqy or another. and that can be hard to find. i would make that a priority, along with the engine wiring harness.

we're all still around. well, i am. and i usually answer messages unless i get some ridiculous questions
- like one time someone asked me for the RL FSM so he can install RL head unit in a vigor, lol.
- that's just not possible. literally not possible because the 04 RL head unit uses the GA NET BUS and was the first of all HANDAs to implement the GA-NET bus to fully handle the satellite radio, navigation, etc, and the 99-03 are just like the 99-03 TL.
- i don't know what he was thinkjing. so i didn't answer.

when i undertook this project i had no alternative car, which made the 6 weeks feel longer than they did.

you will get slaughtered trying a jaarman car. i'm just telling you it's better to start small. i'm the only person in the world to properly do an SLK32 engine in an 05 E320 that came with a similar engine, and even the slight differences were larger than you think.

i do know of a place that has probably everything you need, save the intake hose and clutch tank bracket. but they're in loserville, like i am, so shipping wouldn't be cheap and it'd likely not be worth it.

your head is in the right place though: make sure you have a car with a solid body.

 

Well I'm back for an update. I already posted somewhat of a write-up in the 2G TL forums, but after so long and actually focusing on studying the different wiring diagrams between the TL and CL I got all of the accessories working perfectly. All power windows are functional from their respective switches and the master switch and even the door locks all function. A little splicing, adding pins to CL connectors E on the driver's interior fuse box and adding pins to the CL connectors I and A on the passenger's interior fuse box, then swapping in the TL interior fuse boxes made everything work.