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And J, i paid 2k CAD for my advans, no caps, some rash on all the wheels, same tires as you.
Your asking price is nearly 3k canadian. Which is probably worth it since that extra grand is what ill have to spend to get mine refinished and get centre caps.
We will see what I can do. I have a 4 mile drive to work everyday so it shouldn't be that bad... I am trying to save up the money I make from my part out to find a semi cheap beater with a heater!
I was able to snag the "Red Stripe" tails from Rockstar. Always liked how they looked. I kept my red rear sides off the 05 so I will have those to match the Red Stripes.
Heres a side by side to show the slight difference.
I forgot another mod I made to those was that I drilled individual little holes for the leds to shine through in the frosted cover...you'll see...cool little tidbit!
I'm glad you like them! Enjoy, Beez!
Thanks! Trying to find time to do everything is the hard part! Just waiting for paint to dry, I mean HeelToe to ship my shifter bushings so I can take care of the short throw with that. I told myself I wouldn't but, I think ill buy a knob while I wait for the bushings...
No need to. I am leaning towards the Raceseng knob. Just need to drink heavily one night and hit submit order... That way I have an excuse to spend that much on a knob!
No need to. I am leaning towards the Raceseng knob. Just need to drink heavily one night and hit submit order... That way I have an excuse to spend that much on a knob!
Thanks though!
you will not regret it. it's a piece of art. looking back i would have even paid a little more for it haha, crazy as that sounds. it feels that good (and looks great!).
I keep going back and forth between the silver and charcoal...
charcoal was my first choice way back when...last minute i decided it was too dark and didn't stand out enough for me so i went silver with the translucent clear over it.
looking back i'm very glad i went silver. charcoal would be too dark for me but it works for some interiors (like ryanfett's interior)
I ordered the Hybrid Racing Shifter Bushings and was able to get these in yesterday. Took all of 20 minutes. Hardest part was getting the small bushing back on the post. For $74 dollars and 20 minutes of your time, I'd say it is worth it. The shifts feel a lot stiffer! I do have a Comptech Short Shifter that I will be putting in this week if I can find a couple hours to work on it, otherwise this coming weekend I will get that done.
short shifter is a LOT more noticeable than the bushings...
nice job, man...
sorry I was a little loopy yesterday and couldn't remember exactly what I did to get them to fit easily...the small one sucked but I recall having to look up how to do it on the forums and asking Marcus.
Yea, I was able to get it one without having to loosen up the bracket that holds the cables. Is there anything I should watch out for when doing the CT Short Shifter install? Seems pretty straight forward!
Yea, I was able to get it one without having to loosen up the bracket that holds the cables. Is there anything I should watch out for when doing the CT Short Shifter install? Seems pretty straight forward!
pretty straight forward if you can do it outside of your car. unfortunately someone tack welded my center console support brackets to the car during initial assembly so i had to do everything inside the cabin which SUCKED. hopefully you don't have that issue. but if you do, i can tell you that it's doable haha
Do you guys think the UR Crank Pulley is worth the $$? I don't see many people running them. Is there a reason that many do not run it or is it one of those useless mods like the TB spacer?
I had one on the black car...I thought it reved and dropped faster...
I was told not to couple it with the blue car becuase of the lightweight flywheel...
eventually I threw it on there and personally, I felt like it felt lighter on it's feet with it.
but most will argue it's all placebo...
Majofo had an oem one fall apart on him...so for maintenance and longevity purposes, I'd do it...
i purchased one and then sold it right away because the manufacturer told me i needed a certain belt and i needed to replace the belt every 3 years. i can't do the 105k service at home so i didn't want to pay a shop to do that every 3 years (probably not necessary but i don't like to take my chances with something related to timing like that).
it will make your car rev faster, just gotta weigh that against my "perceived" negatives
to be clear.
that's for the undersized pulley, which I didn't have...
I had the stock sized lightweight one...
no that was for the stock sized one. i never even took a look at the undersized one. i sent some emails to xlr8 about it and they told me the suggestions directly from the manufacturer. whether it "needs" to be done that's another subject. to me it wasn't worth it (just my own mindset)
by another belt i mean they had a specific gates model they wanted. i just wanted to use oem
no that was for the stock sized one. i never even took a look at the undersized one. i sent some emails to xlr8 about it and they told me the suggestions directly from the manufacturer. whether it "needs" to be done that's another subject. to me it wasn't worth it (just my own mindset)
by another belt i mean they had a specific gates model they wanted. i just wanted to use oem
On my 2004 DGP I had the under drive (smaller) pulley which does require a different belt than the stock sized one. The stock sized aluminum one requires the same size belt as OEM. To get the most of those perceived gains, you would probably go to the underdrive (smaller) pulley, but the stock sized one might be a noticeable difference too. The only car I had it on was automatic, and I didn't notice it TOO much with that.
As for the 105k service and belt maintenance, the guy may have been telling the truth about having to change it every 3 years, but you wouldnt have to do the 105k service. The main focus on that is the timing belt which is internal in the engine, whereas the pulley we're all discussing is outside the engine. That belt does get replaced with the 105k, but its really easy to do since its literally right in front of you (its same belt as Power steering pump). Not sure if I misunderstood what you meant, but hopefully that makes sense lol
On my 2004 DGP I had the under drive (smaller) pulley which does require a different belt than the stock sized one. The stock sized aluminum one requires the same size belt as OEM. To get the most of those perceived gains, you would probably go to the underdrive (smaller) pulley, but the stock sized one might be a noticeable difference too. The only car I had it on was automatic, and I didn't notice it TOO much with that.
As for the 105k service and belt maintenance, the guy may have been telling the truth about having to change it every 3 years, but you wouldnt have to do the 105k service. The main focus on that is the timing belt which is internal in the engine, whereas the pulley we're all discussing is outside the engine. That belt does get replaced with the 105k, but its really easy to do since its literally right in front of you (its same belt as Power steering pump). Not sure if I misunderstood what you meant, but hopefully that makes sense lol
OP said CRANK pulley.
Originally Posted by BreezyTL
Do you guys think the UR Crank Pulley is worth the $$? I don't see many people running them. Is there a reason that many do not run it or is it one of those useless mods like the TB spacer?
without being a shit talkin fool, might i just interject one warning
i ran them for years without issue on the tl...although when i used a set on my S2000 rear, i noticed a few stress cracks in them.
well, after putting them on the rear of the S and hooning (read that: doing doughnuts and going sideways)...I removed them from the rear and they were hard to get off.
Tried to stack them and realized they were bent..all the pressed in studs were tilted slightly in.
That made me worry...
I contacted akata and they basically made excuses and politely told me to eat a dick (small one, not big or hairy)
After that I swore I was done using their spacers...
So now I use DMV motorsports or more recently i bought eibach.
On the TL, I'm sure you'll have no issues, I didn't...
but I felt like I'd be a bad friend if I didn't at least tell you my story.
for sure!
I actually dug through some archives and your thread came up about them! Is a thinned walled 21mm socket essential? Im excited to get these wheels pushed out a little bit! it should look tits with some negative camber dialled in!
I also commented on a video of yours on youtube. Not sure why but it was in my recommended. Dude just went right through the stop sign in blues farewell
Nothing really new to report this past weekend with the opener of archery season on Saturday. I did how ever clean her up and slapped my 530's on. The wheel gap is killing me but I will have to deal with it until April unless I can find a cheaper vehicle for winter.
My pup wanted to help with the part out on my 05. That car is almost ready to head to the scrap yard.
I am thinking of saying screw the baseline dyno run and put my intake on. The shop that would do the Dyno run is only open til 5 during the week and I can't make it unless I burn a day of vacation. No bueno! Maybe this coming weekend I will get this done.
curious what you ended up netting on all the part outs?
always makes me wonder how lucrative it is when I see the guys buying totaled ones on facebook group.
530's are +20 and I have a set of steelies with winter wheels if I need to run them. I currently have 3 sets of wheels/tires and once I finish my 8.5 Aspecs I will have 4! I'm a wheel whore and my girlfriend hates it! I also have a old set of winter wheels I'm trying to sell. My garage looks like Tirerack's warehouse!
LOL, I will strip it and take it for one last beat run! Probably gonna have to pull it home!
curious what you ended up netting on all the part outs?
always makes me wonder how lucrative it is when I see the guys buying totaled ones on facebook group.
So far I am around $1,500. I still have big money items so I should be around $3,000+ once sold. My goal is $2,100, which was my highest offer for the car as-is with the bad trans. Thought I could part for more, which I believe I will. Part inquires come and go in spurts and have slowed down a little now. That is why I am stripping it, and calling the junk yard to come get it. I will pull the motor/trans before I do that though. Am I able to pull the motor thru the top with a cherry picker?
