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Using the wideband input on the ECT2 or ELD is just for datalogging, but couldn't you tap that into the stock o2 sensor and use it rather than the stock sensor? The stock sensor is a 5 wire wideband, but I haven't tried it yet.
Secondary o2s can be eliminated from discussion completely as they are merely for catalyst efficiency and should be gone in any aftermarket turbo setup.
I'd think that aftermarket wideband being 18in post turbo is probably the most common scenario in general. I believe Buicks have it pre-turbo in the manifold though (where's Matt when you need him?!).
Ah, I see now. Working on car last night, realized that widebands are on top......
Going to try to get a dyno tuned schedule in the next 2-3 weeks.
Are you going to have it tuned, or just put on the dyno to see how much power? I'd stick with Dom's tuning unless something is really out of wack on the dyno.
I haven't installed the manual boost controller. So I was thinking dyno tuning would help out a lot with adjusting when the wastegate opens. But I don't mind just dynoing the car as is just to get numbers, but the tune is far from done just because of my driving habits. I finally got a good datalog after 5 weeks.
I haven't installed the manual boost controller. So I was thinking dyno tuning would help out a lot with adjusting when the wastegate opens. But I don't mind just dynoing the car as is just to get numbers, but the tune is far from done just because of my driving habits. I finally got a good datalog after 5 weeks.
A dyno tune may be good for nailing down a WOT run and making sure everything is in order, but I'd still have Dom tune it on the street simply due to the spooling differences.
A dyno tune may be good for nailing down a WOT run and making sure everything is in order, but I'd still have Dom tune it on the street simply due to the spooling differences.
No doubt Dom is doing a great job on my tune. I just need a good stretch of road to hual ass on
Looks too ricey to me, but how can I judge. I'm looking at the Versus bumper. My wife said this hood looks ricey but not the versus TL bumper which is kinda strange - she thinks everything I do is ricey, lol.
Quote: Screaminz28
If you put a sensor post turbo, you wouldn't want to use the wideband into the hondata for that, since it won't match the other stock placement. Perhaps sending that output to both o2 inputs would solve it, but it might cut the voltage in half.
Hondata input from post turbo is for datalog only it won't affect the closed loop they only look at the stock sensors
And you for sure want to turn the stock sensors on and run closed loop, I'm sure DOM will do that, anyone with any tuning experience will do that always and it makes tuning easier anyway
I stand corrected on the subject of the o2 sensors placement pre-turbo. I did some research on the matter and it seems that most people of whom actually did dyno testing report anywhere from a 5-10lb back pressure threshold before AFR readings begin to be affected. This is NOT what I wanted to hear as I was just about to make a further increase in boost (20lbs).
Btw, Bosch does in fact make an oem sensor called the LSU ADV that is capable of withstanding 2.5 bar (or 36lbs) without having its readings affected. Again, it is an oem sensor and isn't currently available in a sensor that's compatible with AFR gauges. Also, AEM makes a kit that allows one to install their o2 sensors pre-turbo then correct the information (based off of exhaust back pressure readings) to display on their AFR gauges. It runs around $250.
Thanks Utah.
I concur on the hood and its "rice" status. I confess I've considered them too but cannot bring myself to disgrace the Accord that much. Lol. I say either add some custom hood vents in the oem hood (stay away from cutting section(s) above the bracing to maintain rigidity) or do like me, add some air ducts into the front bumper and route some 3" brake cooling duct in heat prone areas. I used a 3/4" bore bit and drilled roughly 25-30 holes up front in the center to provide more airflow across the radiator and intercooler which helped quite a bit. Then, on the sides, I used some 3" vent ducts and molded them in to route the brake cooling ducts in. I didn't really see too much improvement on the last one but then again, I'm not really having too many issues lately. I've been tackling heat management for two years and has taken that for me to finally get it straightened out using a combination of around 15 different tactics. Lmao.
As for the dyno tuning, I think it's a great idea. It's said that there is no replacement for the dyno when it comes to either steady state tuning (good for ultimate drivability tweaking) and ignition tuning. Any respectable tuner I've ever known about would agree with this. This is actually one of the bad sides to running ethanol is ignition table tuning on the streets. My previous technique, which uses a combination of time and datalog information, doesn't ALWAYS make for a sure fire tune because ambient temps affect ethanol so badly and the fact that e85 seems impossible to hit knock with excessive advance. I myself have seriously considered dyno tuning since learning e85's characteristics....but I'll probably still never do it as I'm too stubborn. Anyhow, id like to see what sort of gains (if any) are made from dyno tuning a street tune. Especially on the ignition side of things. Please post results if and when that happens!
Oh yeah, meant to ask what size nozzle are you using on the WMI? Have you experimented with any other sizes or water/methanol ratios?
Oh yeah, meant to ask what size nozzle are you using on the WMI? Have you experimented with any other sizes or water/methanol ratios?[/QUOTE]
I have been messing with water meth and the nozzle size must be matched to what mix you run I like 75 meth 25 water with a bigger nozzle than the sellers calculators come up with my k series 2.4 liter likes 2 gallon per hour in each cylinder ( I have direct port injection ) turning on at 10 PSI if I run a 50/50 mix they are to big
for your car I would say a get a 10 GPH and a 12 GPH and play with the mix ratio and see what one gives you a .5 drop in A/F ratio that is what you want don't remove fuel or bad things happen LOL
using the 6mm jet since that was the largest i have. I might have to run dual jets since I have a 4mm and 5mm jet. I am justing the W/M as a safety net so trying to minimize the amount of fuel I take out while still having that denotation and cooling effect still present.
As for the vent I think the one in the picture might help, but I feel like most of the heat is generated by the left side. So maybe vents on each side instead of 1 in the middle.
Another thing I notice with the OEM fan is that the way it blow it move air across the top of the engine, while the slim fans unshroud just blows straight back without moving air over the top of the engine. It's kinda hard to describe, but I can feel the difference.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 07-21-2016 at 04:44 AM.
using the 6mm jet since that was the largest i have. I might have to run dual jets since I have a 4mm and 5mm jet. I am justing the W/M as a safety net so trying to minimize the amount of fuel I take out while still having that denotation and cooling effect still present.
As for the vent I think the one in the picture might help, but I feel like most of the heat is generated by the left side. So maybe vents on each side instead of 1 in the middle.
Another thing I notice with the OEM fan is that the way it blow it move air across the top of the engine, while the slim fans unshroud just blows straight back without moving air over the top of the engine. It's kinda hard to describe, but I can feel the difference.
Hey Ken can you remove the cowl piece under the windshield like the 3G TL's to gain some cooling. That's how I'm running and it helps quite a bit with heat extraction but, you lose the outside air option for heating and cooling the car. On a side note I need to get my methanol system back up and running , went thru a puddle and killed it then the shop removed the controller thinking the system has dead. I was trying to trouble shoot whether it was the pump or controller that was bad. May need to send it out to AEM to test and repair for me, since wiring is not my strong suit.
I keep seeing it mentioned and it reminds me I should be running methanol or water to keep IAT's down.
Hey Ken can you remove the cowl piece under the windshield like the 3G TL's to gain some cooling. That's how I'm running and it helps quite a bit with heat extraction but, you lose the outside air option for heating and cooling the car. On a side note I need to get my methanol system back up and running , went thru a puddle and killed it then the shop removed the controller thinking the system has dead. I was trying to trouble shoot whether it was the pump or controller that was bad. May need to send it out to AEM to test and repair for me, since wiring is not my strong suit.
I keep seeing it mentioned and it reminds me I should be running methanol or water to keep IAT's down.
Hey Jack,
I think I can remove the cowl piece like the TL but the only issue is when it snow it is going to ice up. I want to see if there is a way to fully shield the down pipe on top of the exhaust warp in order to block out the heat. Or another thing I was thinking about was running an auxiliary fan and some how channel the heat out of the engine.
If I'm not mistaken, I may have a preformed mil-spec inconel downpipe heatshield I could let go for cheap that would work out real nice. If you're interested in can post up a photo of it. As a matter of fact I have an entire shelf at the shop that's dedicated to heatshields of all types if you need anything else.
This is a little crazy but, PTP turbo who makes turbo heat shielding ( I'm running their turbo blanket ) sells covers for the exhaust on AC Cobra's that have side pipe exhaust that can burn your leg when getting out of the car. I was looking at them for a friend who has a Cobra and remember them being pretty cheap for the size, $100 or so. You could try these out or contact PTP and see what they can do for you, they seem to have a fair amount of custom heat shielding and could steer you in the right direction if they can't help.
I see what your saying, thought the PTP ones were lace up and cheaper than they were. They have a section for ordering custom heat shields, a flat one like in your pic might not be too expensive. Another idea is to double or triple wrap the down pipe for max insulation. If you could find 1800 degree insulation, you could wrap the down pipe with that, secure it with SS ties and go over it with exhaust wrap to make your own sleeve. The insulation used on the turbo blankets is much thicker and better at containing heat than exhaust wrap, something like that would be the way to go as far as heat reduction. Metal heat sheilds are going to conduct the heat and keep it in the engine bay.
A well thought out heatshield will generally have multiple layers to provide insulation by both material(s) and air gap. Nearly all of your higher quality manufacturers will provide like this. The best (IMO) is definitely a ceramic material of some sort sandwiched by two outer layers of metal. The metal will generally be some sort of Titanium or steel if it's to be used on an exhaust component and could even be aluminum if it's used on downstream exhaust and/or intake tubing. I've had great results with wrapping in DEI Titanium followed by a thicker general purpose foil.
Yeah my goal right now is to keep under good temp as low as it can be with that turbo down there. It was about 95 the past few days and coolant temp jumped over 210 again. So I am planning to trim the one fan shroud and shove that back on the radiator. Those slim fans are not cutting it.
OEM driver side radiator fan and shroud was put back on today. Hopefully it will keep my radiator temp in check better by providing better air flow and the shroud acting as a heat shield to prevent the radiator fins from the radiating heat from the turbo and down pipe.
just wondering does anyone have issues with flashpro datalog getting corrupted for no reason? It has happened a few time now.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 07-23-2016 at 11:53 AM.
Yeah my goal right now is to keep under good temp as low as it can be with that turbo down there. It was about 95 the past few days and coolant temp jumped over 210 again. So I am planning to trim the one fan shroud and shove that back on the radiator. Those slim fans are not cutting it.
Yeah, I agree. The slim fans won't do the trick. I previously had the Mishimoto slim fans and they too SUCKED. I ended up going with some others that carried some 650 cfm's more than they did. Because of this, my alternators charging threshold at idle changed slightly higher due to the increased amperage being demanded. A quick edit in FlashPro took care of that in no time.
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
OEM driver side radiator fan and shroud was put back on today. Hopefully it will keep my radiator temp in check better by providing better air flow and the shroud acting as a heat shield to prevent the radiator fins from the radiating heat from the turbo and down pipe.
just wondering does anyone have issues with flashpro datalog getting corrupted for no reason? It has happened a few time now.
If I were you, I'd consider going with a Mishimoto fan shroud with a better set of slim fans so you can gain some clearance between the fans and the air filter. Then, I'd use some 4" brake cooling duct (to make sharp radiuses without restriction) and route it downwards to the ground. The cooling duct can be compressed to make an oval if need be to make through the subframe area and other difficult parts.
You're definitely going through nearly everything I've already had to go through. For me, it was a lot of trial and error. At least you have some members here that can offer sound and effective advice that will save you lots of time and money in the end.
By far, as you've probably read before, heat management was one of my biggest hurdles with this car. Some issues would take me several attempts before finally successfully resolving.
car might need new brakes and axles again. Getting weird noise and pulsation from the front of the car. Put about 50k on the brakes in 5 years. Autozone axles are probably less than a year old. The additional torque is just raping them.
FWIW I wouldn't be to worried about seeing temps over 210 on a 95 degree day. It will get warm if you are stop and go traffic or moving at low speed. My Integra get's into the 210 range on hot track days. Have you considered adding and oil cooler to your setup? I would be curious to see what your oil temps are running with the turbo, I get over 250 degrees with my Integra on track days.
FWIW I wouldn't be to worried about seeing temps over 210 on a 95 degree day. It will get warm if you are stop and go traffic or moving at low speed. My Integra get's into the 210 range on hot track days. Have you considered adding and oil cooler to your setup? I would be curious to see what your oil temps are running with the turbo, I get over 250 degrees with my Integra on track days.
I have but I would like to also get the one with the thermostat and relocates the oil filter somewhere else.
Make sure you datalog the runs on the dyno. That way you could compare it in Virtual Dyno to what the dyno says. Always neat to have direct comparison numbers.
Make sure you datalog the runs on the dyno. That way you could compare it in Virtual Dyno to what the dyno says. Always neat to have direct comparison numbers.
I'll try. I think the dyno log will read much higher since it is going to be done on a dynapak. So the weight of the wheels and roll resistance will not be accounted for.
I thought with dynapacks, since they are not inertia based, they really load the engine based on the vehicle weight with a dyno brake. I know dynapacks read high on low horsepower cars, but if yours is in the 350 - 400 whp, it should be pretty close to a dynojet, which is what Virtual Dyno is very close to.
I'll try. I think the dyno log will read much higher since it is going to be done on a dynapak. So the weight of the wheels and roll resistance will not be accounted for.
going to go to IMW. I got my baseline from their shop. So yeah, and I understand that there will be difference variation and that the dyno is a tool, and I am using it as a tool to see how much I gain from my 253whp/212wtq NA dyno.
Dont forget to weld them wastegates shut before doing so. That's the ONLY way to get accurate numbers! Otherwise, they will read low.
LOL a couple buddies of mine used to work at a Mazda dealer and they would put vice grips on the wastegate of the turbo Beetles when doing PDIs on them. They were a LOT faster for a short time
07-15-2016, 11:14 AM
