Hello I am I just want to thank U all for your input on this. I am swapping hey 2006 Acura RL with the super handling all wheel drive. I have done hours of research and have not found when exact answer to my questions.

I Lost compression on cylinders four and five I need to swap the engine. My question is what is the easiest way to remove the engine? Do I need to remove the engine and transmission together?
I was hoping to be able to disconnect the transmission from the engine and remove the engine and leave the transmission and sub frame attached.
I know the Acura manual says to pull the sub frame but I do not have a lift and will be working on the ground with jackstands and a cherry picker.

any input would be greatly appreciated. I am attempting this first thing in the morning

 

there are many ways to skin a cat.

check youtube, as many people pull Honda engines out of Honda's ALL the time.
your car isnt special, as it's just a regular honda with the same subframes as ALL the other Honda's!
check youtube

 

Thank You!! For your response. I've done hundreds of fwd Honda swaps just not one w awd. I was worried because the transmission and front differential look massive and awkward to remove. I'm going to give it my best shot today going out the top and leaving the trans in place and I will keep you guys posted thank you so much for your vote of confidence
wish me luck

 

^yeah, most of the RL guys havent pulled an engine, just FYI.
so, you're probably going in blind with the help of youtube and your knowledge of Hondas

Good Luck to you!

 

DXplicitOne pulled the tranny too. https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-866518/page2/

 

I'd definitely pull it with the tranny

 

Yeah I just got the exhaust and most accessories removed to facilitate more room for pulling. I'm thinking the only way to remove it from the top would be to pull with the transmission and get a leveler so I can adjust the angle as I pull it out. Thank you for your guys input I really appreciate it

 

Just got the axles pulled and all wiring (biggest pain) and I am ready to pull engine and trans.

to answer above question no the timing belt did not snap or jump a tooth. I actually just did the timing belt and water pump and full tuneup on it. We got the car with 150,000 miles and the previous owner definitely skipped many oil changes. Inside the engine is basically charcoal black and it was burning over a quart of oil every hundred miles. I'm going to find out where that oil was going but We bought the RL with 150,000 miles and the previous owner definitely skipped many oil changes. Inside the engine is basically charcoal black and it was burning over a quart of oil every hundred miles. I'm going to find out where that oil was going but my suspicions say blown rings and valve seals

anyone know if the yoak for the rear drive shaft can be removed before pull and reassemble after new engine is in ?

 

 

That wasn't a question earlier. It was a link to an RL engine swap thread.

 

Anyone know if I can remove the rear wheel drive yoke on the front differential ? It has about 4-5 14 mm bolts holding it to the transmission

 

Does anybody know if I can remove the front diff where the rear driveshaft hooks up? I got the engine and transmission and differential out but it was a big pain and I think it would be very difficult with the front diff attach. I just don't know if that front diff is removable and easily reinstalled. I know these super handling cars or state of the art and have lots of technology that I'm not used to. I am used to 90s Hondas engibes and I'm worried that there may be some weird spring or clutch inside that differential thar I don't want to mess with. Just trying to take every precaution
thanks again for all your help guys

 

 

Guess you already figured it out but the front transfer case just unbolts

 

Thanks for the reply.

I did not remove the front transfer case to remove the engine and transmission. I used a hoist leveler and used a lot of muscle to get it up and over the radiator support. Busted my knuckles but got it done. Thank you for responding I will definitely remove that transfer case before reinstalling motor and transmission.

 

couple of things I recommended doing on top of usual stuff like... WP, TB and etc...change the RMS in the new motor and in the transmission change the screen filter before installing both. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your input. I am changing timing belt, water pump,, tensioner, idler pullys, rear main, front crank seal, oil filter housing gasket, vtec solinoid gasket, gonna pull oil pan and oil pump to reseal, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, intake gaskets, throttle body gaskets, pcv, exhaust gaskets. Basically going through the entire motor.

I looked up the trans filter and it said disassemble trans. How do I change that trans filter?

Also doing oil, trans fluid, front and rear diff. Hoping to knock out all the maintence and get another 5 years outta the car.

Appreciate everyone's input

 

Might as well do a valve adjustment while your in there as well..


oh and at getting another 5 years out of the car. You'll have MANY more than 5 years

 

look at this thread for guidance.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...change-935660/

 

Thanks a lot guys. Good to find another great forum/ resource w good people that know what they are talking about. Thank You!! RL people.

def doin the valve adjustment while I'm in there. I have to check my h22 every 500 miles lol

this is what I normally tinker w.

 

Got a jdm j35 a w 50k to swap in. Gonna rebuild the blown engine and sell it down the road. Winter project probably. My car is done.


Thanks again guys

 

Definitely not splitting the trans for that filter. Trans shifter well and fluid wasn't to bad. Had some fibers on the drain plug but I think I'll add an external filter and flush frequently over cracking the trans. I already have a lot on my plate w this car lol
thank again guys

 

Anyone seen the valve cover tube wells melt? Looks like it the aluminum melted

 

Has anyone seen the spark plug to boils on the valve cover actually melt. What? Check these out never seen anything like this. Both the old motor and the replacement 50 K motor had this severe pitting and disfomation

 

I moved your new thread post here. Let's keep all the info related to your swap here.

 

Cool Thank You!!

 

 

Looks like blow-by from a loose plug.

Must've melted the coil pack?

 

Both engines?

 

Didn't fry a coil and the spark plug tube is completely dry. I'll resistance check the coils to be sure but the old engine threw a cylinder 4 code and the pic is of cylinder 3. Another weird thing I noticed is the replacement 50 K motor that I got had similar melting around the spark plug tube as well. My old motor had 170 K and the replacement has 50 both shows signs of This spark plug tube melting

 

Too damn consistent - must be a casting fault.

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking. Maybe others should check bank 1 valve covers. Mine were not beyond use but I will definitely be keeping an eye on the spark plug tube wells to make sure my new seals hold up. I would be curious if others have noted the same thing on the j35.

Got the rebuild done today. She fired up first crank. I was very relieved and satisfied that there was not one leak or drip because we completely re-sealed the engine and transmission. My brother was very satisfied and his smile and gratitude was definitely worth for over 30 hours of labor it took for me. I am now know that my brother will have a very reliable car again. Others be warned. Change your oil on time

and thanks again to the community