Engine starts up, then stalls - 99 TL 102K
B93P TL Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Gwinnett County, GA
I have this problem on occasion....maybe once a week or so during the fall and spring. Never in the winter or in the summer. This leads me to believe that it may have something to do with winter gas and warm temperature (as stated in TSB-01-001 HEAT SOAK).
I have already cleaned the intake very thoroughly (not a spec of carbon). Cleaned the throttle body and IACV with carb cleaner. Removed the EGR valve and cleaned with carb cleaner. Also opened the bottom pin of the EGR with a screwdriver and sprayed cleaner in there to flush out the gunk. Also cleaned the EGR passage on the engine block. And I still have this problem. Maybe the EGR is failing erratically ....maybe a new one would fix this....who knows?
I also took out the MAIN RELAY and re-soldered all the connections, as one person reported this as a solution to his similar problem. Didn't work.
If you search the forum you will find a person's solution to this problem (sorry I don't have a link as I only saved these posts):
"i noticed while xmas shopping and going into a store for 30 mins n coming back out and cranking up the car it would immediately turn back off and on the second start up have a rough idle like a misfire... my mechanic inspected it and found all the symptoms of the tsb 01-001 on the fuel pressure regulator and pcm... called the dealer and got a price quote for both and the fpr was quoted @ 400 and the pcm was 1250.. does anybody have any experience or problems in this area. the bulletin said tht if one was changed then the otherhas to be changed too.. is this true can i get away with jus changing the fpr and getting rid of the rough idle it feels disgusting and dont wanna damage the engine?"
"YAY! Finally fixez this freakin problem with my hard starts by simply replacing the main O2 sensor along with a bad evap canister and shut valve! no more rough idles or hard starts for me."
I have already cleaned the intake very thoroughly (not a spec of carbon). Cleaned the throttle body and IACV with carb cleaner. Removed the EGR valve and cleaned with carb cleaner. Also opened the bottom pin of the EGR with a screwdriver and sprayed cleaner in there to flush out the gunk. Also cleaned the EGR passage on the engine block. And I still have this problem. Maybe the EGR is failing erratically ....maybe a new one would fix this....who knows?
I also took out the MAIN RELAY and re-soldered all the connections, as one person reported this as a solution to his similar problem. Didn't work.
If you search the forum you will find a person's solution to this problem (sorry I don't have a link as I only saved these posts):
"i noticed while xmas shopping and going into a store for 30 mins n coming back out and cranking up the car it would immediately turn back off and on the second start up have a rough idle like a misfire... my mechanic inspected it and found all the symptoms of the tsb 01-001 on the fuel pressure regulator and pcm... called the dealer and got a price quote for both and the fpr was quoted @ 400 and the pcm was 1250.. does anybody have any experience or problems in this area. the bulletin said tht if one was changed then the otherhas to be changed too.. is this true can i get away with jus changing the fpr and getting rid of the rough idle it feels disgusting and dont wanna damage the engine?"
"YAY! Finally fixez this freakin problem with my hard starts by simply replacing the main O2 sensor along with a bad evap canister and shut valve! no more rough idles or hard starts for me."
As for the FPR, someone correct me if I wrong, but I believe that the TSB applied specifically to the 2000 model TL. So if you have this issue on a 2000 model, then you will have to change both the FPR and the ECU. In the case of a 1999, you should be able to just replace the FPR by itself.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 11
Hey we are probably neighbors, as I live in L'ville as well! But to answer your question, I do have to hold the accelerator to keep the idle at approximately 1500 rpms for about 10-15 seconds for the idle to smooth out. Afterwards, it is smooth as butter with no further issues.
YES! I have to get it started the EXACT same way! In that case 2 questions:
1. Has it ever given you a CEL? Mine has not.
2. Does the problem stop/go away in the summer? Or is it all year round?
B93P TL Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Gwinnett County, GA
I've noticed that this problem usually occurs only during the spring months, and goes away completely during the summer months. I'd say this is my third consecutive spring season that I've experienced this behavior. Prior to that I've never had this issue on the TL. No check engine light has ever illuminated, and my code scanner have never displayed any pending codes or anything in the live data that requires further investigation. The fact that I don't ever experience this issue during the summer months, and the fact that I've done almost everything under the sun as far as checks ... this makes me believe that it has to be something with the winter fuel in warm weather that my engine just does not like.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 657
Likes: 173
Apparently, since the problem has to do with the fuel staying in the fuel line (as opposed to returning in the tank) when the car is shut off....the heat in the engine compartment causes the winter fuel to "separate" (whatever this means). So I guess the fan is installed near the fuel rail (according to that person's post) on the engine to cool the line. I guess this makes sense, because the misfiring happens when you restart the engine after it sits for a while, when warm (causing the fuel to separate), and goes away after 20 seconds or so when the separated fuel is consumed. I shut off the engine and restart it a couple of times and the problem disappears.
Last edited by victus1; Mar 22, 2012 at 02:57 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: houston(cypress), texas
same issue. much more intermitten
ive got a 00 tl. probably a lemon since in two months i changed brakes, rotors, oil, trans fluid, starter, battery, six new spark plugs, drivers side radiator fan motor, and fixed a coolant leak.
anyways. after all of that i still have the aforementioned issue. but MAYBE once or twice a month. just often enough i worry about it. i only use chevron or shell(or another top tier gas like exxon when i absolutely am not gonna make it to either of those) i live in texas and ive been having this problem over the summer so i refuse to believe its winter gas. i'm wondering could it be some sort of leak in one of the gaskets on my IM or TB? im taking auto classes and i know a decent bit about car repairs, but not enough to know if air leaking in behind the TB would fool the computer somehow(i.e. more air than indicated by the sensors). any thoughts on this?
anyways. after all of that i still have the aforementioned issue. but MAYBE once or twice a month. just often enough i worry about it. i only use chevron or shell(or another top tier gas like exxon when i absolutely am not gonna make it to either of those) i live in texas and ive been having this problem over the summer so i refuse to believe its winter gas. i'm wondering could it be some sort of leak in one of the gaskets on my IM or TB? im taking auto classes and i know a decent bit about car repairs, but not enough to know if air leaking in behind the TB would fool the computer somehow(i.e. more air than indicated by the sensors). any thoughts on this?
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Same problem and tried everything!
I am having the exact same problem and I've done everything possible to fix the issue, but nothing has done the trick. I don't believe it's winter fuel either because I lived in Florida when the problem started. It does seems to get worse in the summer months...
If I only let the car cool down 15-30 minutes, I start the car, then it stalls out. I give it gas for about 10-20 seconds and it's fine...runs smooth and knock on wood, no problems.
This has been happening for the past 1 1/2 years, but seems to be getting more frequent.
I have 193k miles on the car, but it started at probably 120k. I've spent over $6,000 and replaced batter, ignition switch, cleaned throttle body, etc. to no avail.
I want to sell the car, but had hoped to fix the problem first. I also live just outside Atlanta in Decatur so I'm close to most of you!
If I only let the car cool down 15-30 minutes, I start the car, then it stalls out. I give it gas for about 10-20 seconds and it's fine...runs smooth and knock on wood, no problems.
This has been happening for the past 1 1/2 years, but seems to be getting more frequent.
I have 193k miles on the car, but it started at probably 120k. I've spent over $6,000 and replaced batter, ignition switch, cleaned throttle body, etc. to no avail.
I want to sell the car, but had hoped to fix the problem first. I also live just outside Atlanta in Decatur so I'm close to most of you!
Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 657
Likes: 173
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 93
Likes: 5
From: Hayward CA
I am having the same problem and still don't know what causes this. After digging into a lot of threads, this seems to have most useful info but the cause is still unknown. So here is the list of might cause the problem:
1. Fuel injector main relay
2. Fuel Pressure Regulator
3. IAC Valve
4. Main O2 sensor along with a bad evap canister and shut valve!
5. EGR passageway
6. Heat soak of "winter gas"
I dont know where to start but I believe FPR takes a high chance. I cleaned EGR last year. Can anyone show me how to check if I have bad FPR? Thanks
1. Fuel injector main relay
2. Fuel Pressure Regulator
3. IAC Valve
4. Main O2 sensor along with a bad evap canister and shut valve!
5. EGR passageway
6. Heat soak of "winter gas"
I dont know where to start but I believe FPR takes a high chance. I cleaned EGR last year. Can anyone show me how to check if I have bad FPR? Thanks
Pro
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 510
Likes: 61
From: Troy, Ohio 45373
Pull the vacuum line off the fpr. If there is gas in the line, the fpr is bad. You can also check fuel pressure with the vacuum hose connected and disconnected. It should have a different pressure with each one. Check the service manual for proper pressure.
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Had the same problem - hard to start after stopping for a short period with a warm engine - 2000 Acura TL 3.2, 188k miles - changed the main fuel pump relay, but it didn't fix the problem; final fix was replacing the battery with an ultra high performance battery with 800 cca @12v. Hope this helps anyone who has the same issue. (Red top optima hp battery)
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
...are you saying that when you run a couple of errands/short trips and and when you return to your car it does not start? Do you have to wait about 5 minutes and stars like nothing ever happens. YOur post sounded somewhat similar and maybe not...no one seems to be able to tell me what it is, not even the Acura shop. I fI drive 300 miles and stop for gas...not one problem, its those short errands and I must be patient and wait for it to cool down...thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
...are you saying that when you run a couple of errands/short trips and and when you return to your car it does not start? Do you have to wait about 5 minutes and stars like nothing ever happens. YOur post sounded somewhat similar and maybe not...no one seems to be able to tell me what it is, not even the Acura shop. I fI drive 300 miles and stop for gas...not one problem, its those short errands and I must be patient and wait for it to cool down...thanks.
The red top battery helped a lot but is not a cure. It makes the car start a lot easier cus it's cranking so fast. The hard start did recure once after the new battery. However, there may be something to the battery theory cus I did notice that the neg battery terminal corrodes very easily. On another thread I read that "When the neg terminal corrodes at the battery its not enough to just clean the terminal you need to replace the whole neg cable". I will try this next if my current attempt does not work.
Current attempt is... 3-23-15 Just replaced the o2 sensors (2), evap canister and shut off valve.
Will update when I know more.
Note: I'm replying for thread #55, we live in NorCal.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Yes same thing.
The red top battery helped a lot but is not a cure. It's makes the car start a lot easier cus it's cranking so fast. The hard start did recure once after the new battery. However, there may be something to the battery theory cus I did notice that the neg battery
terminal corrodes very easily. On
another thread I read that "When the neg terminal corrodes at the battery its not enough to just clean the terminal you need to replace the whole neg cable". I will try this next if my current attempt does not work.
Current attempt is... 3-23-15 Just replaced the o2 sensors (2), evap canister and shut off valve.
Will update when I know more.
Note: I'm replying for thread #55, we live in NorCal.
The red top battery helped a lot but is not a cure. It's makes the car start a lot easier cus it's cranking so fast. The hard start did recure once after the new battery. However, there may be something to the battery theory cus I did notice that the neg battery
terminal corrodes very easily. On
another thread I read that "When the neg terminal corrodes at the battery its not enough to just clean the terminal you need to replace the whole neg cable". I will try this next if my current attempt does not work.
Current attempt is... 3-23-15 Just replaced the o2 sensors (2), evap canister and shut off valve.
Will update when I know more.
Note: I'm replying for thread #55, we live in NorCal.
So far so good, zero hard start problem but, the tl been driven only about 350 miles with some short stops not.
Will update when I get more miles with short stops.
FYI: Below is the link of the original post.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/fuel-pressure-regulator-pcm-hard-starts-757230/
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
Update 3/29/15
So far so good, zero hard start problem but, the tl been driven only about 350 miles with some short stops not.
Will update when I get more miles with short stops.
FYI: Below is the link of the original post.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...starts-757230/
So far so good, zero hard start problem but, the tl been driven only about 350 miles with some short stops not.
Will update when I get more miles with short stops.
FYI: Below is the link of the original post.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...starts-757230/
Pro
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 510
Likes: 61
From: Troy, Ohio 45373
If you have a hard start or slow start. You should look into your grounds. They can be deceiving especially the main ground going from the battery to the trans and frame.
Buying a bigger battery will alleviate the problem and it may go away for good but that's really just a band aid fix. Eventually the problem will recur. You should have no problems with a standard battery made for the TL unless there is a issue that needs addressed.
Buying a bigger battery will alleviate the problem and it may go away for good but that's really just a band aid fix. Eventually the problem will recur. You should have no problems with a standard battery made for the TL unless there is a issue that needs addressed.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
If you have a hard start or slow start. it a chaou should look into your grounds. They can be deceiving especially the main ground. oing from the battery to the trans and frame.
Buying a bigger battery will alleviate the problem and it may go away for good but that's really just a band aid fix. Eventually the problem will recur. You should have no problems with a standard battery made for the TL unless there is a issue that needs addressed.
Buying a bigger battery will alleviate the problem and it may go away for good but that's really just a band aid fix. Eventually the problem will recur. You should have no problems with a standard battery made for the TL unless there is a issue that needs addressed.
Now that I've installed the o2 sensor and evap parts, I need to give it some time to see if the hard start is fix bc if i start trying multiple repairs at once and the hard start is corrected, then won't be able to tell which repair is the correct one.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
...are you saying that when you run a couple of errands/short trips and and when you return to your car it does not start? Do you have to wait about 5 minutes and stars like nothing ever happens. YOur post sounded somewhat similar and maybe not...no one seems to be able to tell me what it is, not even the Acura shop. I fI drive 300 miles and stop for gas...not one problem, its those short errands and I must be patient and wait for it to cool down...thanks.
Whoohoo! No more hard starts after short stops with a warm motor.
I'm going to say my 2000 tl is fixed. Just want everyone to know that my symtoms were the same ones in the Acura SB 01-001, AKA- "Hard Start After Hot Soak".
For the record, my VIN is listed on the bulletin.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
i had this same issue and it was indeed an ignition switch run fine at start up idle low then die. new ignition switch also erg and problem solved but now im haveing probldems with the auto climate control. it just cuts out and i can not turn it on at all. im thinking faulty wireing? it turns ib b stays most of the time.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
i had this same issue and it was indeed an ignition switch run fine at start up idle low then die. new ignition switch also erg and problem solved but now im haveing probldems with the auto climate control. it just cuts out and i can not turn it on at all. im thinking faulty wireing? it turns ib b stays most of the time.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...epairs-867732/
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Parts as wtf!!! Glad i found this post . I have thrown alot of parts and money at my car, because of this problem...worn out parts because of this problem. How did I miss this? I only got an evap trouble code once, after my fans gave out.
Gonna do this the first chance i get. Evap canister and 2 way valve, already have the o2 sensors just sitting here. I also have the other 3 way valve .
lets just see if this resolves my issue...i will be back to repost!!!
Thank you drifter?
Gonna do this the first chance i get. Evap canister and 2 way valve, already have the o2 sensors just sitting here. I also have the other 3 way valve .
lets just see if this resolves my issue...i will be back to repost!!!
Thank you drifter?
Last edited by thoiboi; Dec 19, 2023 at 03:37 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
