engine problem when it warms up

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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 04:37 PM
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engine problem when it warms up

Hey everyone, I just recently bought a 2000 tl-p. Now I noticed it has this issue. I f I drive for a while then stop somewhere to buy something. Say for 20-30 minutes. When I get back in my car it'll turn on but then stall on me. To start driving I would have to rev it up enough that it gives me a chance to slam the car into drive and go. Eventually it'll screw up my transmission also by doing this. Reading around I heard it could be a dirty egr. Took apart the engine and cleaned everything up.. it was pretty bad in there. Put it all back together and it did it again. So I kept reading and read that it could be a screwed up egr valve. I don't have $100 for a new one right now so I fabbed up a egr delete. Once again it almost did it to me just now. I was only stopped for 5 minutes so im not sure but it did almost do it making me think it's going to happen again anyways. So does anyone else have a suggestion please! This car is the best I've had and dont want to have to get rid of it. (Obviously I've always had older cars and nothing luxury lol.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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I take it you don't have any CELs? It honestly sounds like you might have an ignition switch issue. Hondas are known for having this problem.


Here is a good video on how to test to see if you have the issue:


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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Check the 2nd Gen "DIY" sticky for more details on common problems and fixes.

Check for a vacuum leak. Clean the TB intake and IAC valve. Make sure that the top cover plate was installed properly after the EGR passageway cleaning was done. Try some fuel system cleaner such as Seafoam in your gas tank.

Also, take the car to your local auto parts store and have them read the CEL codes. While there, have them do a load test on your electrical system. Our cars start to do funny things if they are not getting their juice.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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Guess I should have mentioned that oops. Yes has CEL. All cylinder misfires. Yes I don't feel a misfire. This is the reason i kept believing it was the egr.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Btw just saw that ignition switch video. Doesn't seem to be the problem. It happens when the car is hot and after being stopped for about 20 minutes. Turns on but stalls with the CEL. And sometimes triggers on the TCS light!
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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May need new NGK plugs or perhaps a bad coil.
Try searching other threads concerning "misfire".
Many things can cause a misfire code, so it's the process of elimination.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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When I get home tomorrow I'll try the coil pull check see if it does anything. Even though the engine runs as smooth as a babies butt lol. Any other ideas what it may be. or where can I listen for the most probable vacuum leaks. Definitely not the brake booster btw. Thanks
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 05:31 PM
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The tcs light that sometimes comes on with the cel confuses the crap out of me!
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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Can you post all the codes that came up? The tcs and cel at the same time coming on sounds like a separate issue than the misfire problem.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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I'll write them down tomorrow morning as im at work until 7am. However they were cylinder 1-6 misfire. And the tcs would only come on if I sit there trying to turn on the car by revving the engune instead of slamming it into drive. My car is still very driveable but I cant go somewhere if I'll be there less than enough time for the engune to cool. If it matters my RPMs when idling stay at 500
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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Have you looked at your air filter it might have been neglected or as 3.2TLc mentioned Clean the TB intake and IAC valve. Also check your coolant level, when cold check if theres any antifreeze in the radiator. Keep us updated
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 05:50 AM
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Yes there's antifreeze in the radiator. Cleaned the throttle body when I cleaned up the egr ports. Will be checking out the IAC valve and after reading up on it today it sounds like a good possibility. Air filter is also decent. Maybe 6-10,000 miles worth on it.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 05:54 AM
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Noticed a possible leak of antifreeze near around the upper radiator hose on the radiator end or maybe the radiator cap. For some reason I havnt seen it leak even staring at it with the engine hot and running. But I see splashes on my engine cover, above the fans, and that metal cover that covers the headers.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 06:15 AM
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Last thing. Now I noticed while driving.. only accelerating.. I hear a slight whistle from the passengers side behind the dash.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 07:57 AM
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If you see signs of coolant leaking, try to isolate the leak. Could be a pinhole near the hose end or a loose clamp. Check the coolant in the rad when it's cool, if it's low....you could have air within the cooling system, which can cause idling problems. Have the system pressure checked if ya can't locate and repair the leak.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 09:58 PM
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A clogged catalyst can cause low rpm's did it have a code for that ? Are you hooking up a scanner ?
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:20 PM
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Okay so, I had the following codes.
P1491 - has to do with my EGR delete.. that's fine
P0301-05 cylinders 1-5 misfire (obviously these are multiple codes)
p0300 - Random misfire
and very unfortunately. ..
P1740 - 4th gear pressure switch

took apart the intake and recleaned it, cleaned up the IAC, and seafoamed my car. Put a new radiator cap and refilled my coolant resoivor.

so now my idle seems a little more normal. I was getting about 450-500 rpm at idle before, now I'm at about 550-700 rpm. Got the car warmed up and seemed to start right up. We'll see later throughout the week. I'll post on here if anything happens. Thank all of you very much!

Now I also gotta change the dang purge valve and 4th gear switch -.-
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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Make sure that the cooling system is purged of any air pockets. BURP it !!!
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 01:15 PM
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How did you go about the Egr delete? If not done right it can create a vacuum and exhaust leak
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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The egr delete I made 2 plates out of metal, put some rtv on the engine area, put a gasket, put more rtv above the gasket, put the metal, put more rtv above the metal, and put the last peice of metal and bolted it down. Checked the area and no leaks.

However now my car stalls in idle when on drive and warm. Seems to be broken IAC maybe? Damn cars are a PITA! I had also gotten a P1399- random misfire all cylinders. but upon deleting it it hasnt come back up.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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And no misfires felt
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 04:44 PM
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Did you check the connections on the injectors when you did the egr cleaning.
Im suspecting the timing belt probably jumped a tooth giving you the stalling issue.
When your starting it does it start up right away or does it hesitate to start up?
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Starts up with no issues fortunately. All my problems seem to come up soon as the car warms up.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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You put timing belt on your post and I nearly took a dump in my pants! Lol
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 05:41 PM
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Recheck all the work that ya recently done. Maybe the plate got flipped when ya cleaned the EGR passageways ? What's that whistling sound....try to find the source, as it may be a vac leak. Is your cooling system topped off in the rad ? Perhaps have it pressure checked.

PS, If ya did a thorough cleaning of the TB intake and EGR system.....try removing that plate blocking the EGR valve. The valve itself seldom goes bad and bypassing it may be causing ya grief, IDK.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 06:13 PM
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Egr gasket is correct. Triple checked that one lol. Coolant is topped off as well. Gonna spray hoses tomorrow see if I catch the leak. Ill try to put back the EGR Valve see if it helps any. Will update tomorrow.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Dont know why I said egr gasket. I ment IM gasket is correct
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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EGR valve can be cleaned no need to replace it, Yea the timing belt would be the last thing on my mind. If you can get a video of the problem on here it can give us more clues.
Also if you have a scanner What is the STFT %
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 07:23 PM
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Oh no, I wish I had one of the good ones, I got a cheap $40 one from AAP. I originally performed a cleaning. Kept happening so I did a delete. The delete got rid of most of my misfire codes. I am hoping to god that this may just be the IAC giving me issues now since I did take it apart to clean it good maybe I broke something in it. Did get it to spin without restriction. Also I checked the coils via the disconnect while running method and they are all good.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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Did you see this on the coils when you took them out ?
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:04 PM
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Erick I'd have to take another look in the morning along with looking at the injector plugs. Didn't really notice whether or not I saw that line. Btw the whistling seems to be around the area of the serpentine belt. Maybe the belt itself. I got a lot of maybes -.-
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000tlp
Erick I'd have to take another look in the morning along with looking at the injector plugs. Didn't really notice whether or not I saw that line. Btw the whistling seems to be around the area of the serpentine belt. Maybe the belt itself. I got a lot of maybes -.-
Check the coils first since the plugs for the injectors are hidden under the intake. Its ok I was the same way when I started working on cars, In the end its rewarding when you fix something yourself.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Besides for the money issue that's why I like fixing my own car, for the satisfaction that I did it myself. Thanks for the advice. You don't happen to have a picture of where the injector plugs are do you. Trying to find it on google.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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On the 12th picture you'll see them, Check the easy stuff first before doing this.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Awesome thanks a lot. Will check all the small things and redo everything I did and do that last. Worst comes to worst and I cant do it by friday I'm gonna have to find the money somehow for the mechanic.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 07:14 AM
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Hey to begin, MERRY CHRISTMAS / HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE!
So most of my issues are gone, however my car idles at very low rpms when warmed up. Reaching as low as 300 rpm sometimes at idle. This ofcourse causes the car to tremble. Any ideas what I can look for? Thanks!
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Merry christmas, Have you looked at the MAP sensor? see if its loose from its 2 screws that hold it down also check the connection. The sensor is on top of the throttle body.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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2000tlp - So what did you do to solve the 'hot start' problem ?
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 06:03 PM
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Can almost guarantee hot idle issue is IAC. REPLACE it don't mess with cleaning. A maf issue SHOULD set a dtc for something along the lines of out of range too high or too low. If possible look at MAF pids on scanner for voltage and grams per second. Check you air intake for proper sealing as this will cause turbulence over maf- incorrect reading.
As stated before check STFT AND LTFT pids this will indicate vacuum leaks or fuel issues. I will try to check back if you need additional help
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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May want to check the fuel pressure. Could be a faulty FP regulator or a leaking fuel injector. Maybe the pump is restricted ?
Perhaps the PGM-FI main relay is not working right. Just a few things to consider checking, IDK.
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