Blower motor not working after many repairs
Blower motor not working after many repairs
so its been about two months trying to diagnose my heater a/c problem....
at first seemed like the harness and blower motor had went bad.... replace both of them with brand new parts, checked all relays and fuses... still nothin...
i recently read a thread about the transistor or resistor... in which it was explained there was a way to run a climate control diagnostic, i did... and got back error codes K= A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.
N= A problem in the blower motor circuit.
( is there a way to test the transistor or resistor?) before paying for one.
please keep in mind i have no heat or ac at this time.
the heater air mix control seems to be moving fine... it is not locked up or making any sounds seems to be moving freely
i also recently changed the interior air filters.
thanks man any help would be appreciated
harmonic
at first seemed like the harness and blower motor had went bad.... replace both of them with brand new parts, checked all relays and fuses... still nothin...
i recently read a thread about the transistor or resistor... in which it was explained there was a way to run a climate control diagnostic, i did... and got back error codes K= A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.
N= A problem in the blower motor circuit.
( is there a way to test the transistor or resistor?) before paying for one.
please keep in mind i have no heat or ac at this time.
the heater air mix control seems to be moving fine... it is not locked up or making any sounds seems to be moving freely
i also recently changed the interior air filters.
thanks man any help would be appreciated
harmonic
Couple of things right off the bat I can think of:
1. Disconnect the blower motor transistor (aka resistor) and jump the black wire and the blue/red wire with a piece of wire. Once the wire is jumped, turn the ignition switch to on and the blower motor should begin running at full speed. If it does, chances are you have a bad blower motor transistor. If it doesn't engage, go to the next step.
2. Check in the underwood fuse block for the blower motor relay (the largest relay somewhat in the center of the fuse block) and see if it clicks off and on when the ignition is turned off and on. If not check fuse #3 (7.5A) in the drivers fuse block and fuse 56 (40A) in engine fuse block and if good, replace relay with a known good one and see if the blower motor begins working. If it begins working you have a bad blower motor resistor.
1. Disconnect the blower motor transistor (aka resistor) and jump the black wire and the blue/red wire with a piece of wire. Once the wire is jumped, turn the ignition switch to on and the blower motor should begin running at full speed. If it does, chances are you have a bad blower motor transistor. If it doesn't engage, go to the next step.
2. Check in the underwood fuse block for the blower motor relay (the largest relay somewhat in the center of the fuse block) and see if it clicks off and on when the ignition is turned off and on. If not check fuse #3 (7.5A) in the drivers fuse block and fuse 56 (40A) in engine fuse block and if good, replace relay with a known good one and see if the blower motor begins working. If it begins working you have a bad blower motor resistor.
Heater blower motor not working
Hi guys,
I have the same problem. yesterday i put a recycled transistor in and it worked all day but then when out on me this morning on the way to work. so now I'm puzzled. I just checked to blower by grounding it and it works. What should I do next? Should I check the 40A fuse and the relay? Hot and confused...
Rvpilot
I have the same problem. yesterday i put a recycled transistor in and it worked all day but then when out on me this morning on the way to work. so now I'm puzzled. I just checked to blower by grounding it and it works. What should I do next? Should I check the 40A fuse and the relay? Hot and confused...
Rvpilot
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get a new resistor not recycled
you already did the power connector replacement -if burnt??
the plug under front edge of glovebox, take it apart- thats if its not burnt and welded itself together
ck for loose or burnt-or even rusty wires
running fan on 5/high all the time puts a lot of heat thru the wires
the factory leads put a strain on connector- update kit has longer wires $12-20 at dealer
you already did the power connector replacement -if burnt??
the plug under front edge of glovebox, take it apart- thats if its not burnt and welded itself together
ck for loose or burnt-or even rusty wires
running fan on 5/high all the time puts a lot of heat thru the wires
the factory leads put a strain on connector- update kit has longer wires $12-20 at dealer
Just read the end of my last post above, the end was SUPPOSE to read:
If it begins working, you have a bad blower motor RELAY.
Sorry about that. That paragraph was heavily populated with too many terms. So what was the outcome?
If it begins working, you have a bad blower motor RELAY.
Sorry about that. That paragraph was heavily populated with too many terms. So what was the outcome?
I wroung the wires blue/red to black and the blower comes on.
I checked the No.3 7.5A fuse. it is good.
I checked the relay and could barely hear it click,and that is with a harbor freight stephascope. not a good speller.
That is it.
So do I buy a new relay or Transitor??
Thank you all for the help.
I checked the No.3 7.5A fuse. it is good.
I checked the relay and could barely hear it click,and that is with a harbor freight stephascope. not a good speller.
That is it.
So do I buy a new relay or Transitor??
Thank you all for the help.
Well, I have run all the checks listed above by all that have been helping me and so far the relay and fuses checked good. the black to blu/red power check to the blower was good ( blower comes on).
I just installed a new OEM resistor and the system ran good for about 15 min. then it stopped! Now what, any ideas??
Thx.
I just installed a new OEM resistor and the system ran good for about 15 min. then it stopped! Now what, any ideas??
Thx.
Blower motor ????
so its been about two months trying to diagnose my heater a/c problem....
at first seemed like the harness and blower motor had went bad.... replace both of them with brand new parts, checked all relays and fuses... still nothin...
i recently read a thread about the transistor or resistor... in which it was explained there was a way to run a climate control diagnostic, i did... and got back error codes K= A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.
N= A problem in the blower motor circuit.
( is there a way to test the transistor or resistor?) before paying for one.
please keep in mind i have no heat or ac at this time.
the heater air mix control seems to be moving fine... it is not locked up or making any sounds seems to be moving freely
i also recently changed the interior air filters.
thanks man any help would be appreciated
harmonic
at first seemed like the harness and blower motor had went bad.... replace both of them with brand new parts, checked all relays and fuses... still nothin...
i recently read a thread about the transistor or resistor... in which it was explained there was a way to run a climate control diagnostic, i did... and got back error codes K= A problem in the air mix control linkage, door, or motor.
N= A problem in the blower motor circuit.
( is there a way to test the transistor or resistor?) before paying for one.
please keep in mind i have no heat or ac at this time.
the heater air mix control seems to be moving fine... it is not locked up or making any sounds seems to be moving freely
i also recently changed the interior air filters.
thanks man any help would be appreciated
harmonic
Hey Harmonic, if you're still out there.... please check back in with an update if you found what your problem was. Thanks !
Hey RVpilot, it seems that after replacing the transistor pack twice.....the system will work for a while then die again. My guess is that there's a wiring problem somewhere, likely a short or bad ground. Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire from the transistor to the climate control unit.
Check the #3(7.5a) fuse in the driver's side fuse panel box and also check #56(40a) fuse in the underhood box. Also check or swap the relay underhood for the blower motor.
If the fuses are all ok, try jumpering a wire from the blower motor's connector #1 terminal (blue-black) to ground. When turning key on, the blower should run. If not, remove jumper and check #2 terminal for 12v to ground, a voltage reading would indicate a shorted motor, no reading leads to checking the relay for the blower.
Last edited by 3.2TLc; Sep 13, 2012 at 07:45 AM.
welcome, great job finding an existing thread!, but you may want to look thru the main and problems and fixes sections,,
by now, we have found the main fan power connector located under front edge of glovebox has a problem!
The wires are really short/tight which leads to the plugs pulling apart or other corrosion buildup in wire failure
CAN LEAD TO FIRE!
Will look fine on exterior of the plastic plug, but take it apart or look on back side and it will be melted plastic and rusty metal, loose plug into connector etc
Bypass the connector and splice in a new section of wires with your own single wire splice connectors, or pay $25 at acura for new connector with extra wires to confuse you and splice it in!
That's our most common reason for fan failure
ck that part out and let us know if you need more help
by now, we have found the main fan power connector located under front edge of glovebox has a problem!
The wires are really short/tight which leads to the plugs pulling apart or other corrosion buildup in wire failure
CAN LEAD TO FIRE!
Will look fine on exterior of the plastic plug, but take it apart or look on back side and it will be melted plastic and rusty metal, loose plug into connector etc
Bypass the connector and splice in a new section of wires with your own single wire splice connectors, or pay $25 at acura for new connector with extra wires to confuse you and splice it in!
That's our most common reason for fan failure
ck that part out and let us know if you need more help
The climate control unit has a self diagnosis function. Did you run the self diagnosis function?
Check for a bad ground on the climate control wire harness. The grounding bolt is located just above and to the right of the dash cigarette lighter.
Is there power at he control panel on the dash?
The Climate Control Unit (CCU) has a self-diagnostic function built in to the system. To activate it, do the following.
1. Turn the ignition on (II position). Dash lights on, engine not running.
2. Press the CCU “Auto” button and then the “Off” button. Continue to hold both buttons for 1 minute.
If there is a problem with the system then the temperature indicator will throw out an error code. It will be displayed on the 2 digit temperature indicator. It will flash between the numbers 88 and the error code. The code will display as 1 “Digital” line segment of the number 88.
The digital number 8 has 7 segments, 6 on the perimeter and 1 in the middle forming the digital number 8. The number 88 will have 14 segments (14 codes). It is double digits because there are only 2 spaces on the display. Each segment will represent a different set of problem.
It’s hard to explain but, you will understand once it’s lite up. If you get an error code, please take a picture of it and post it here. I will let you know what it means.
To display the error code you may need to hold down the CCU buttons Auto and Off or it may flash between the numbers 88 and the error code.
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