Current Score:
Rat: 1
Torque Wrench and pliers: 1

And the battle continues.

Here is a little DIY to help those in need of this fix.

Click here for the PDF DIY.

Also:
Open offer to anyone in and around Houston TX or willing to drive there:
Bring the replacement wire and I'll help you/show you how to change it and use my tools for whatever consideration you feel reasonable and some good conversation.

1-2 hours for the car to cool, plus 1-2 hours for the R&R.

 

Yes a thread resurrection, but I'm very thankful for the work of people like jdb8805. This posting is an example of what makes Acurazine a great resource for the DIY'er.

I just used this thread to replace a knock sensor wire on our Honda Pilot and the steps are essentially the same. Here are some additional tips that helped me with this job:

1. I found the hardest part of the job involves the knock sensor wire replacement. I used a ratcheting 10mm box wrench to loosen the 10mm bolt holding the bracket. Once loosened I used a junction/swivel with a 3 inch extension to ultimately take the bolt out and then a magnet to steady things once the bolt was about to get unattached from the motor block. I also placed a paper towel under this bracket in case the bolt dropped. Installation was reverse but I used some blue painters tape to hold the bolt into the socket.

Attaching the end of the wire to the knock sensor was also a pain until I thought of using a long straight blade screwdriver to ultimately rotate the connector 90 degrees like I needed.

2. It wasn't clear regarding the removal of the injectors, but you do NOT need to remove the clips that keep the injectors attached to the rail. Just a gentle rocking motion is needed to ultimately remove the injectors.

3. In step 3 of the PDF, I found it was easier to simply remove throttle body instead. I am also installing the Outlaw Engineering thermoblock spacers in this job. So the throttle body needs to get removed for me anyway. It's a great time to do this job since all the intake components are removed.

4. The fuel injector rail also benefited using the swivel junction and a 3" extension for starting the two 8mm bolts holding the rail to the manifold. Again, I used some paper towels for insurance in case I dropped a bolt and used the masking tape on socket trick for re-installation.

5. My Walmart did not carry Throttle Body cleaner but I found the Carburetor cleaner worked very well for cleaning the intake manifold. My manifold was pretty clean- I attribute that to having an oil-catch can for the last 4 years.

I still need to reinstall the manifold and all the hoses- I'll do that tomorrow and hopefully the P00325 error code will disappear. This was the biggest mechanical job I have had to do so far, but it wasn't too bad. The hardest part was dealing with the knock sensor wire for sure.