Twin Cities Acuras
Well I do not have anything booked yet. I want to go but if I do not have someone to split the hotel with I might be out if I can swing it by my self I would be register by now. Hey maybe I could crash with you guys I can bring a sleeping bag. I don't know but it's an idea what do you think.
C'mon MN peeps, we've got to have more willing to head down to KC this year! Someone...anyone??
I was planning on leaving Friday coming back on Monday when are you going and leaving. You lost me on the $60.00. Driving to Ill is way out of my way. I would have to meet you else were. Are you saying I can split a room with you? Let me know.
The room at the clarion is 60 dollars a night... I leave chicago saturday 2am. Come back sunday night... :d
And jorge i got a room already amigo...
three in a room...
fuck it. lol...
And jorge i got a room already amigo...
three in a room...
fuck it. lol...
Haven't been on in a while. Too busy with other things.If you're trying to figure out if you want to do a full-blown build, I'd ask yourself a few questions first...
1.) Are you a glutton for punishment?
2.) Are you able to leave the car sit for 1-2 years while you work on it?
2a.) Are you prepared to continue to troubleshoot it for the next year or more after that?
3.) Do you have deep pockets?
4.) Do you have solid fabrication abilities?
No matter what anyone tells you, NONE of the mods are straight bolt-up style mods. You may get the raw parts, but be prepared to improvise when stuff doesn't go as planned. I don't think there was a single aspect of the car that I can say went flawlessly. There were dozens of blown deadlines, multiple trips to the dyno, LOTS of fab work, and it's still not 100% where I want it yet.
That being said though, I can tell you that, in it's current state, it's the most insane car I've ever driven/ridden in (and I've probably got another 150hp to go).
Wow.. Haven't missed much that past few days I see...
A/C went out in my car last week and the TL has been in the shop all this week.. finally got it back last night!
I gotta say though, I had a new MDX as a loaner and I think I know what my next vehicle is going to be...
A/C went out in my car last week and the TL has been in the shop all this week.. finally got it back last night!
I gotta say though, I had a new MDX as a loaner and I think I know what my next vehicle is going to be...
That'd be me.
Haven't been on in a while. Too busy with other things.
If you're trying to figure out if you want to do a full-blown build, I'd ask yourself a few questions first...
1.) Are you a glutton for punishment?
2.) Are you able to leave the car sit for 1-2 years while you work on it?
2a.) Are you prepared to continue to troubleshoot it for the next year or more after that?
3.) Do you have deep pockets?
4.) Do you have solid fabrication abilities?
No matter what anyone tells you, NONE of the mods are straight bolt-up style mods. You may get the raw parts, but be prepared to improvise when stuff doesn't go as planned. I don't think there was a single aspect of the car that I can say went flawlessly. There were dozens of blown deadlines, multiple trips to the dyno, LOTS of fab work, and it's still not 100% where I want it yet.
That being said though, I can tell you that, in it's current state, it's the most insane car I've ever driven/ridden in (and I've probably got another 150hp to go).
Haven't been on in a while. Too busy with other things.If you're trying to figure out if you want to do a full-blown build, I'd ask yourself a few questions first...
1.) Are you a glutton for punishment?
2.) Are you able to leave the car sit for 1-2 years while you work on it?
2a.) Are you prepared to continue to troubleshoot it for the next year or more after that?
3.) Do you have deep pockets?
4.) Do you have solid fabrication abilities?
No matter what anyone tells you, NONE of the mods are straight bolt-up style mods. You may get the raw parts, but be prepared to improvise when stuff doesn't go as planned. I don't think there was a single aspect of the car that I can say went flawlessly. There were dozens of blown deadlines, multiple trips to the dyno, LOTS of fab work, and it's still not 100% where I want it yet.
That being said though, I can tell you that, in it's current state, it's the most insane car I've ever driven/ridden in (and I've probably got another 150hp to go).
THAT BEING SAID. THE QUESTION IS WHEN WILL WE BE ABLE TO SEE THE INSANATY YOU HAVE CREATED?
No RKC tonight but there is a little mini cruise meeting at the same place. Im planning to go.
Here is a link to the facebook page for it.
http://www.facebook.com/events/430991693592565/
Here is a link to the facebook page for it.
http://www.facebook.com/events/430991693592565/
No RKC tonight but there is a little mini cruise meeting at the same place. Im planning to go.
Here is a link to the facebook page for it.
http://www.facebook.com/events/430991693592565/
Here is a link to the facebook page for it.
http://www.facebook.com/events/430991693592565/
Hehe. There are a couple more things I need to do to it before I bring it back out again. Maybe I'll bring it along to July's C&C or something. We'll see how much time I have available.
That'd be me.
Haven't been on in a while. Too busy with other things.
If you're trying to figure out if you want to do a full-blown build, I'd ask yourself a few questions first...
1.) Are you a glutton for punishment?
2.) Are you able to leave the car sit for 1-2 years while you work on it?
2a.) Are you prepared to continue to troubleshoot it for the next year or more after that?
3.) Do you have deep pockets?
4.) Do you have solid fabrication abilities?
No matter what anyone tells you, NONE of the mods are straight bolt-up style mods. You may get the raw parts, but be prepared to improvise when stuff doesn't go as planned. I don't think there was a single aspect of the car that I can say went flawlessly. There were dozens of blown deadlines, multiple trips to the dyno, LOTS of fab work, and it's still not 100% where I want it yet.
That being said though, I can tell you that, in it's current state, it's the most insane car I've ever driven/ridden in (and I've probably got another 150hp to go).
Haven't been on in a while. Too busy with other things.If you're trying to figure out if you want to do a full-blown build, I'd ask yourself a few questions first...
1.) Are you a glutton for punishment?
2.) Are you able to leave the car sit for 1-2 years while you work on it?
2a.) Are you prepared to continue to troubleshoot it for the next year or more after that?
3.) Do you have deep pockets?
4.) Do you have solid fabrication abilities?
No matter what anyone tells you, NONE of the mods are straight bolt-up style mods. You may get the raw parts, but be prepared to improvise when stuff doesn't go as planned. I don't think there was a single aspect of the car that I can say went flawlessly. There were dozens of blown deadlines, multiple trips to the dyno, LOTS of fab work, and it's still not 100% where I want it yet.
That being said though, I can tell you that, in it's current state, it's the most insane car I've ever driven/ridden in (and I've probably got another 150hp to go).
Giving me an estimate to start my adventure. Stating I'll go JnR Turbo kit instead of a custom kit. Or wait for Subaru's BRZ to come out.
Last edited by bouncer07; May 29, 2012 at 10:41 AM.
Considering you can go over 100,000 miles before you chat te then that is cheap . In years back you had to change them at 25,000 at $20.00 a popyou are talking $100.00 at 100,000. This being concervative.
My previous cars were 08 EVO 8 MR (GT42R), 06 Civic SI (fully built/cammed), 99 GSX (GT35R turbo), and 2000 RS 2.5 w/ 2007 STI swapped all worked done by me so my experiences I have could and can be done. But if not, I got Devote Auto, MAP, and Full Blown to help me with little stuff that I need. The reason why I asked was because this was probably the heaviest car I'm going to turbo and possibly will limit to under 500 whp and not going all out 600+ whp on the build. My experiences with Honda transmissions was probably the worst since they can't take much high boost abuse thus went all motor on a build I decided to do for auto cross on and taking straight line driving to the curves. What's really holding me back right now is the JnR ecu, which I see is still a premature product and the transmission side which is limited since there is no products being offered by some major companies. Thinking it'll cost me lots for this built so I wanted to see what your pockets went.
Giving me an estimate to start my adventure. Stating I'll go JnR Turbo kit instead of a custom kit. Or wait for Subaru's BRZ to come out.
Giving me an estimate to start my adventure. Stating I'll go JnR Turbo kit instead of a custom kit. Or wait for Subaru's BRZ to come out.The trans is still the weakest link for any of us turbo guys (as I found out a couple of weeks ago, heh). There still isn't an aftermarket gear set that we can use unfortunately. I did a bit of searching around and found these guys: WPC Treatment. I'm going to pick up a new set of gears and have them treated by WPC. We'll see how long they hold up.

Regarding the J&R ECU... it's definitely a product in its infancy yet. I had hoped that when I got mine that things like startup, idle and other parameters would have been fully tuned. They weren't. I had to mess around with them quite a bit in order to get the car to even start. Shane up at DB spent a bit of time on them as well, and it's still not perfect. It still takes a few more seconds to get the car to fire and the idle is relatively fragile (though SIGNIFICANTLY better than it was). I also don't know if mine was an isolated case, but I do know that VTEC was not wired in on my latest harness. Just something to watch out for.
Again, it comes down to the fact that nothing is really a straight bolt-up for these things. Double and triple check every part that you get and take the time up front to verify that everything is right before getting it in the car.
I'd say that if you're fine with staying between 400-450 at the wheels, you can do it for $10-$12k if you do a lot of the work yourself. Even at that point though, you may want to just freshen up some of the internals like bearings, rings, seals, etc. It won't tack on much to the cost, but it'll add piece of mind when you're on the dyno.
That reminds me... dyno time... since it is a full stand-alone ECU, be prepared to drop a few grand on tuning. It took me several trips to the dyno just to get it to this point. We started running into fuel issues on the top end so we didn't push it any further that day - which means that I'll be back up there again for more tuning ($$). :/
If you're shooting for 450-500 whp, you can save a little cash, but it's still on the edge of what many of the stock components are going to handle for any appreciable amount of time. The 450 mark seems to be the point at which you're needing to go above and beyond with the upgrades (pistons, rods, trans, etc.).
The trans is still the weakest link for any of us turbo guys (as I found out a couple of weeks ago, heh). There still isn't an aftermarket gear set that we can use unfortunately. I did a bit of searching around and found these guys: WPC Treatment. I'm going to pick up a new set of gears and have them treated by WPC. We'll see how long they hold up.
Regarding the J&R ECU... it's definitely a product in its infancy yet. I had hoped that when I got mine that things like startup, idle and other parameters would have been fully tuned. They weren't. I had to mess around with them quite a bit in order to get the car to even start. Shane up at DB spent a bit of time on them as well, and it's still not perfect. It still takes a few more seconds to get the car to fire and the idle is relatively fragile (though SIGNIFICANTLY better than it was). I also don't know if mine was an isolated case, but I do know that VTEC was not wired in on my latest harness. Just something to watch out for.
Again, it comes down to the fact that nothing is really a straight bolt-up for these things. Double and triple check every part that you get and take the time up front to verify that everything is right before getting it in the car.
I'd say that if you're fine with staying between 400-450 at the wheels, you can do it for $10-$12k if you do a lot of the work yourself. Even at that point though, you may want to just freshen up some of the internals like bearings, rings, seals, etc. It won't tack on much to the cost, but it'll add piece of mind when you're on the dyno.
That reminds me... dyno time... since it is a full stand-alone ECU, be prepared to drop a few grand on tuning. It took me several trips to the dyno just to get it to this point. We started running into fuel issues on the top end so we didn't push it any further that day - which means that I'll be back up there again for more tuning ($$). :/
The trans is still the weakest link for any of us turbo guys (as I found out a couple of weeks ago, heh). There still isn't an aftermarket gear set that we can use unfortunately. I did a bit of searching around and found these guys: WPC Treatment. I'm going to pick up a new set of gears and have them treated by WPC. We'll see how long they hold up.

Regarding the J&R ECU... it's definitely a product in its infancy yet. I had hoped that when I got mine that things like startup, idle and other parameters would have been fully tuned. They weren't. I had to mess around with them quite a bit in order to get the car to even start. Shane up at DB spent a bit of time on them as well, and it's still not perfect. It still takes a few more seconds to get the car to fire and the idle is relatively fragile (though SIGNIFICANTLY better than it was). I also don't know if mine was an isolated case, but I do know that VTEC was not wired in on my latest harness. Just something to watch out for.
Again, it comes down to the fact that nothing is really a straight bolt-up for these things. Double and triple check every part that you get and take the time up front to verify that everything is right before getting it in the car.
I'd say that if you're fine with staying between 400-450 at the wheels, you can do it for $10-$12k if you do a lot of the work yourself. Even at that point though, you may want to just freshen up some of the internals like bearings, rings, seals, etc. It won't tack on much to the cost, but it'll add piece of mind when you're on the dyno.
That reminds me... dyno time... since it is a full stand-alone ECU, be prepared to drop a few grand on tuning. It took me several trips to the dyno just to get it to this point. We started running into fuel issues on the top end so we didn't push it any further that day - which means that I'll be back up there again for more tuning ($$). :/
When tuning, are you putting race gas for tuning?
I've tried the gear treatment (cryogentic/WPC) and it did nothing for me on a Honda tranny (USDM K20/RSX) and went with Albins on my all motor set up. PPG's are expensive but should be well worth the custom gears if you decide to contact them.
When tuning, are you putting race gas for tuning?
When tuning, are you putting race gas for tuning?
I tuned on pump gas (92 octane) and 550cc/min of meth. The whole goal of the car was to have something that I could take on a thousand mile road trip and not have to worry about it.
The WPG treatment is completely different from cryo treating. Did you try WPC specifically? How much of the trans did you have treated? What specifically failed after the treatment?
Ya, but when you don't have 100 bucks.... it don't matter when you have to do it!!!



No one can drop $10K on assesories like you MONEYBAGS
.

and i already have 3 in my room lol...