My CT Engineering Short Shifter came in the mail today. Since I searched this forum and nothing came up regarding the shifter install/review, I decided to make a thread myself.

Here's link to the product:
http://www.ct-engineering.com/Produc...9/Default.aspx

It comes in a small package with instructions, two small allen head screws, locktite threadlock and the actual shifter adapter.

Instructions are pretty basic, doesn't go too much into detail. Very minimal diagrams showing each step, but it's enough to get through the installation if you have swapped out shifters in your previous cars. It doesn't list tools that you'll need in the instructions so I'll list them here.

12mm socket
8mm socket with extension
Philips head Screwdriver
Needle nose pliers (not necessary but very handy)
Allen key set (not sure which size is exact, but I have a bag of allen keys so I just dumped it out and tested which one fit snug)
2 -13mm or 1/2 inch open ended wrenches (i had one of each)
grinder/sander/saw/sharp blade


Pull shift knob off, twist off the boot adapter. Then pull up on the center trim piece, unplug seat warmer harnesses. Pull off ebrake trim piece.

Open center compartment, pull rubber mat out. unscrew the two phillip head screws inside. unscrew the two screws in front of the compartment. Undo the harness clips. there are three more screws (8mm heads) in front of the shifter (this was not mentioned in the instructions). Take out the entire center console.

take out the little retainer clips that hold both shift cables to the shifter. pop the cables off and move to the side. Unbolt the 4 12mm bolts holding down the shifter assembly. Now comes the tricky part. There are 2 retainer/mechanism that holds the cables in place. There's a white lock tab that you can pull back so it unlocks the mechanism. You can now spin the entire thing with your hands. Spin Counterclockwise until it doesn't spin anymore. These are spring loaded so you have to hold them in that position while trying to pull the cables away from the assembly.

Once you do the same for both, you should be able to take out the assembly altogether. Now for the Grinder/sander part. Theres a tab that would hold the harness lines, that tab needs to be grinded/broken off. I didn't have a saw/grinder/etc, so I took a nice size clamped, locked it down and snapped the tab off. It snapped perfectly, but its just a flimsy plastic piece anyways.

Now to pull off the plastic blue cap on the bottom of the shifter. take two 13mm or 1/2 inch open ended wrenches. Use it together to pry off the plastic cap. Once off, pop the cap onto the CTE adapter. use thread lock on the allen screws and use it to lock the adapter to the end of the shifter. This will extend the bottom of the shifter, lengthening the travel at the bottom of the pivot point, thus shortening the throw of each shift.

now put everything back in reverse order.

This took about an hour to do. Very easy car to pull apart the interior, especially for a newer Acura.. Then again, everything underneath the carpets looks just like a newer civic (which I already installed an aftermarket bucket seats and a subwoofer/amp).

So was it worth the 60 bucks?

Sure. I guess. If you like crisper, quicker throws. It does however feel a bit notchy, instead off the buttery feel of oem. so every throw actually has a more accentuated selection feel into the cogs. It's ok, but I think there are ways of making the throws shorter. I'll have to see how other aftermarket shifters feel compared to this.

I went for a drive and immediately, I knew it felt different. I couldn't tell at all that the shifts got shorter, but I do know which gears I'm putting the shifter into better. It feels like its falling into a notch.

Its a good, well made, product. I think if I had to do it again, I would wait for an adjustable one. I know at least for my Subarus, there were tons of good adjustable shifters out there and for Honda/Acuras, I know the Buddy Clubs is an actual full shifter assembly replacement.

 

Thanks for your post! I was looking for a short shifter, but at the end of the day, I realized that I like the feel of the stock and that shorter throws won't really help performance when the oem clutch isn't meant for really fast shifting. I'm like the stock feel too, so I knew this wasn't for me.

 

Yeah. I'm starting to get used to it. I see that it definitely quickens the shifts, but yeah I can't seem to get the clutch right with it. no matter how quickly I shift or even let go of the clutch early, it just gets jerky and sometimes I don't let off gas soon enough that it seems like i'm flat-foot shifting.

Either way, I like the short shifting in my little track car with all mechanical feel.. This car, not so much.

 

That you for sharing. This will help people decide, as for me.. You confirmed my fears.

 

That's not you...the car has rev hang to help burn excesses gasses between shifts (emissions thing). With Flashpro, you can remove the rev hang and you'll be able to shift faster and not sound like your revving between shifts.

 

Thanks for sharing the review!

 

no.. freakin.. wonder.. I swear i let off the gas (early too) before I suppress the clutch but it feels like the damn car's gas pedal is stuck in between the shifts.

good to know. looks like another $700 to shell out on making this car "normal" aka how it should have been from factory.

can't complain though. Only "luxury" car maker that had a manual sedan available on the lot, with choices too. It was hard for me to turn down because after 2 weeks of trying to test drive some manual non-economy sedans and this was the only car I found.. It's hard to blame the ILX, even with all the shortcomings.

no prob!

 

For casual everyday driving, the rev hang helps to make shifts smooth, especially considering the long throws of the shifter...haha, 5th gear feels way out in texas somewhere.

That notwithstanding, once we slap on suspension on this car, it'll be much more fun, I'm sure. That, coupled with Flashpro and a downpipe and this we'll have plenty of power for DD duties. I just wish I had a LSD.

 

yeah.. flashpro, downpipe, rear sway bar, wheels/tires and coilovers. that's all I'm doing. Once all that is done, it'll be my perfect daily. I can finally start working on my track car again.

 

Nice write up. So it provides a 22% reduction in shift throw. As far as I can tell, the ILX is ~50 mm stock. This would make it about 39 mm! That's pretty good. From what I recall, the S2000 was around 45 mm, same as the CR-Z. The current TSX is ~58mm for comparison.

 

There may be something else at play. Around 2007-2008 Honda started adding a clutch check valve to slow the clutch pedal return. We believe this was to reduce the shift shock to the drivetrain if you revved it up and side stepped the clutch. I recall that AP2 S2000 drivers were retrofitting the AP1 clutches to get around this 'problem'.

 

I just installed the buddy club short shifter in my 2014 ilx dynamic, if anyone is interested in pics let me know ! the Buddy Club is amazing so worth it.

 

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