Well, the TSX needed new wheels....ISF is back (Page 64)
#881
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
^ I'm actually getting the APR splitter myself. I kind of like the racey race design. Subtle yet aggressive at the same time..
https://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/-p-...FYUWHwodLNID9A
https://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/-p-...FYUWHwodLNID9A
#883
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
I am going to eventually do the weaponX carbon lip kit. It will be similar although a little thinner than the carbon kit I had on the ISF. I wish it was thicker but oh well I like the look over all.
Can't find wagon pictures of it but it shouldn't look much different than this on the car.
edit:
This is just the sides on a wagon. Not sure I am going to go for the full aggressive front with the stabalizer rods but maybe. I definitely will eventually go as aggressive with wheel fitment on on the V as I did the F.
I might go carbon crazy again on this car. Going to probably do the vents on the fenders in carbon and I am iffy on the hood. If I did the hood I would paint everything but the bulge in the middle.
Can't find wagon pictures of it but it shouldn't look much different than this on the car.
edit:
This is just the sides on a wagon. Not sure I am going to go for the full aggressive front with the stabalizer rods but maybe. I definitely will eventually go as aggressive with wheel fitment on on the V as I did the F.
I might go carbon crazy again on this car. Going to probably do the vents on the fenders in carbon and I am iffy on the hood. If I did the hood I would paint everything but the bulge in the middle.
#885
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
It actualy provides more clearance than the stock pieces b/c those stock gray ones are removed for this install and the APR lip is thinner. I think one of the guys on the CTSV Forum measured it and this actually gave him a bit more clearance.
The "X" Factor is really how far out you extend it. If you give yourself a really large shelf and stick it out far... clearance will be reduced. I would probably install it similar to the slammed Vagon above...
The "X" Factor is really how far out you extend it. If you give yourself a really large shelf and stick it out far... clearance will be reduced. I would probably install it similar to the slammed Vagon above...
#886
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
The V has a really big overhang for a RWD car. I has to see if the overhang was bigger on the F or not. I had the F lowered to 3.75in off the ground so as long as the V is higher it will be a cake walk getting around town.
#887
Senior Moderator
That APR splitter is definitely not subtle but I still like it. I am glad, though, that I went with my blue Kevlar splitter. That one looks great. Had I not found it, I'd go carbon fiber lips all around. It's so easy to attach them with the OEM clips.
#889
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Finally found my dad a set of winter wheels for the RS7. Not sure how I was able to convince him of these.
Had to have something that will look good since in PA these will probably be on the car for close to 4 months of the year.
Should have some installed pictures early next week.
Had to have something that will look good since in PA these will probably be on the car for close to 4 months of the year.
Should have some installed pictures early next week.
The following users liked this post:
neuronbob (12-19-2015)
#892
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Winter wheels nicer than summer wheels..
#893
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I like that APR splitter, looks very aggressive. I know most of it is marketing bullshit, but is it at least a solid mod, not going to fly away somewhere on the freeway..??? I wonder if it connects to the bumper cover only. It's pretty flimsy.
#894
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
The following users liked this post:
Majofo (12-14-2015)
#895
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (5)
It does, but it connects in the front of the bumper as well as under. And once you install the struts, it's pretty stout. There's a write-up on it on the CTSV Forum in the Exterior section and I think the guy used like 14 bolts to attach it. It's not going anywhere
#896
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Excellent..
Dear Santa, I know I've been naughty, but I can explain..
Dear Santa, I know I've been naughty, but I can explain..
#897
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
So changed the diff fluid this weekend. It wasn't solid black but definitely was dark. No more groan right now though which is awesome.
Also started on plasti dipping all the chrome trim. So far I have the rear done and the drivers side. Passenger side gets done tonight hopefully. Haven't done the fender vents and I am not doing the grill cause it would be a pain to ever get it off the mesh. I am now trying to figure out how to vinyl wrap of plasti dip the chrome roof rails. Also not sure if I want to do the fender vents. Eventually I will get the carbon ones but not till I do the kit.
Also started on plasti dipping all the chrome trim. So far I have the rear done and the drivers side. Passenger side gets done tonight hopefully. Haven't done the fender vents and I am not doing the grill cause it would be a pain to ever get it off the mesh. I am now trying to figure out how to vinyl wrap of plasti dip the chrome roof rails. Also not sure if I want to do the fender vents. Eventually I will get the carbon ones but not till I do the kit.
Last edited by CCColtsicehockey; 12-15-2015 at 06:36 AM.
The following users liked this post:
neuronbob (12-19-2015)
#899
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Pics are coming. Also for the differential fluid change it really is as simple as they make it seem. Even being overly careful and thorough my first time I was done in 1hr from start to cleanup. I paid $59 for the pump and the fluid shipped. If you are paying $120 a year bob to do it once you have the pump it will only cost you $50 from there on out. It is easier and less messy than even the oil change. I am definitely going to do one every year now probably.
#900
Racer
Definitely have to be patient with plastidip, and it has to be decently warm out for it to spray nice. Have you guys seen the Heintz racing V sedan? 800 wheel or something
#901
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Back to my overly detailed build thread posts from TSX days.
So my first time doing the plastic dip things did not go that great. The bottom bumper strip peeled off with the tape and the hatch piece has horrible little bubbles all over it. Then again I did them at the same time and it was my first try. I redid the bottom as a second try and it came out nice and smooth but the tape was too close to it again so if you look straight down at it from the top you see tiny lines of chrome.
The drivers side window trim I did last night came out much better though so starting to get the hang of it all. It doesn't take that long though. Taping and masking is the worst part of it all. You only have to wait 15-20min between coats and 4 of them total.
Taping the first time.
This is the second time for the bottom piece. Notice the gap now between the bottom edge of the trim and the tape. I thought there was not enough gap between bumper and trim for it to work leaving space for it to make its own edge but apparently there is cause it worked perfectly the second time on the bottom.
Second time.
Finished back
Taping for window trim took forever
Tape removed but still had to peel away excess
Finished Trim
So my first time doing the plastic dip things did not go that great. The bottom bumper strip peeled off with the tape and the hatch piece has horrible little bubbles all over it. Then again I did them at the same time and it was my first try. I redid the bottom as a second try and it came out nice and smooth but the tape was too close to it again so if you look straight down at it from the top you see tiny lines of chrome.
The drivers side window trim I did last night came out much better though so starting to get the hang of it all. It doesn't take that long though. Taping and masking is the worst part of it all. You only have to wait 15-20min between coats and 4 of them total.
Taping the first time.
This is the second time for the bottom piece. Notice the gap now between the bottom edge of the trim and the tape. I thought there was not enough gap between bumper and trim for it to work leaving space for it to make its own edge but apparently there is cause it worked perfectly the second time on the bottom.
Second time.
Finished back
Taping for window trim took forever
Tape removed but still had to peel away excess
Finished Trim
#902
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Dirty H-Town, Amerikkka
Posts: 28,432
Received 7,772 Likes
on
5,045 Posts
I like how well the 'dip matches the matte-ish pillar trims... Looks pretty seamless!
#903
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Yeah the dip matches that really well. I am thinking of ordering some of the glossy finish dip for the rear hatch parts as it might look better than the matte.
#904
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Looks great Colt, I have reggo and gloss sitting on the shelf. I've been meaning to dip as well. I've been considering dipping the 3rd brake / trunk light. I think it'll really look slick on the RSM. We'll see.
#906
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I should have some time this holiday.. maybe some extra extra time depending on how the holiday drive goes
The following 2 users liked this post by Majofo:
juniorbean (12-15-2015),
KaMLuNg (12-16-2015)
The following users liked this post:
RPhilMan1 (12-16-2015)
#908
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
By weeks end the car should have a whole new look.
#909
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
Grabbed a day time shot of it while home over lunch.
#910
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Dirty H-Town, Amerikkka
Posts: 28,432
Received 7,772 Likes
on
5,045 Posts
Oh, and if you're curious... Plastidip doesn't work on the exhaust tips. No matter what they say or what other people say, it doesn't.
Well, I mean, it will for a little bit, but it'll start to cook off in short order. I imagine even sooner with a high output motor and a lead-foot like I'm sure you have in the Vagon. Use a true high-temp paint if you're going to spray them.
Well, I mean, it will for a little bit, but it'll start to cook off in short order. I imagine even sooner with a high output motor and a lead-foot like I'm sure you have in the Vagon. Use a true high-temp paint if you're going to spray them.
#911
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Not sure if serious.. but in any case..
#912
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I wonder if anyone makes titanium dipped tips for the V.
#913
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Dirty H-Town, Amerikkka
Posts: 28,432
Received 7,772 Likes
on
5,045 Posts
Serious.
I blacked out the chrome on my truck including the exhaust finisher. "They" said the Plastidip would hold up fine and that it's good up to eleventy billions degrees or something.
Went on one road trip and it started cooking off.
I blacked out the chrome on my truck including the exhaust finisher. "They" said the Plastidip would hold up fine and that it's good up to eleventy billions degrees or something.
Went on one road trip and it started cooking off.
#915
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
bc
#916
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,624
Received 3,836 Likes
on
2,572 Posts
#917
Moderator
Trim looks great! Thinking about doing the same on the chrome trim at least on the side windows on our Flex. Likely in a high gloss to match the pillar trims.
#918
Chapter Leader (Houston)
iTrader: (7)
Oh, and if you're curious... Plastidip doesn't work on the exhaust tips. No matter what they say or what other people say, it doesn't.
Well, I mean, it will for a little bit, but it'll start to cook off in short order. I imagine even sooner with a high output motor and a lead-foot like I'm sure you have in the Vagon. Use a true high-temp paint if you're going to spray them.
Well, I mean, it will for a little bit, but it'll start to cook off in short order. I imagine even sooner with a high output motor and a lead-foot like I'm sure you have in the Vagon. Use a true high-temp paint if you're going to spray them.
#920
Moderator
^ I'll likely go the PD route, to see if I like the look, then look into vinyl later.
I imagine it's a lot easier to remove the PD if you don't like it/it gets scuffed/damaged.
I imagine it's a lot easier to remove the PD if you don't like it/it gets scuffed/damaged.