MEKO

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty much powah this week tonight
GTRs showed up
Both 2000+ HP[

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Duplicate post again

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

Uhhhhh 2000+ hp and no engine shots?

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

I was shy and late
Brother told me to come because of the FRS and GTR
The time I got there, GTRs were coming back from a run on highway.

oonowindoo

did you get your idea of front light bulb colors from that GTi?

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Screw them germans
Yellow fog is a subie thing

oonowindoo

does the GTI has red side too? haha

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Hmm could be... red is for VW/Audi

Ashole

5 people around my brother's GTI, trying to figure out why license plate bulbs doesn't work
fuse is ok
switch is fine
can't figure out hahaha losers
go buy a honda

ok I take losers back
they are friggen pro as hell, I stay away from them

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

oonowindooooo check this one out

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

My brother is back
They messed up the interior bulbs too hahaha
And he just told me, red GTR is 1100 hp
other one stock

oonowindoo

i like the blue one but those rear fenders....i thought the S2000 ones were bad...

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

^
I will be getting a front lip after winter and I like the one that blue has

I was at garage Japan
Brother was at garage German

I got trans/diff fluid changed. Feels like heaven now











I don't know who drives this. Guy from next door but it's slammed

Costco

What fluid did you get? I used Pentosin MTF2 for the trans, which improved cold shifting a LOT, but slightly worried about the lack of testing on the track. Next change might be all Motul.

That 3G TL I want my sports car to handle like a sports car, but if I had a TL I would probably stance it like that. oh lawdy. Was gonna get SBC RPF1s too, but they're too soft for track use.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Motul
I remember you telling me about Pentosin but, went with Motul

Here is the experience.
I made Subaru change the transmission fluid around 2500 but to be honest I didn't feel any difference. I am usually good with feeling every beep on the car I drive too.
Never touched the differential until yesterday 14k miles

Today, I am in love with how tough gear changes are. Feels so solid instead of sloppy.
Talking about engaging the gears with before/after clutch.

Even shifting the gear lever to it's place got much easier and smoother. No harsh feeling

And also, acceleration response is much quicker after a gear change. I guess that has to do with diff...

Those are what I felt. Love whatever happened to this thing.
Now started to think about Perrin Transmission Support Mount and that little spring to make gear shifting easier to get in place..

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I recommend the support mount and the shift spring. Also pick up the shifter stay bushing if you haven't already.

I'd also suggest looking into the Perrin motor mounts. Theres a shitload of slop in the stock mounts, and its wasted energy. The mounts will aid in throttle response too.

Have you looking into the differential and rear subframe bushings?

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Motor mounts is in my mind after what those xlr8 mounts transformed the TL into, really feeling the power engine puts down but I don't want vibration anymore.
Boxer engine doesn't vibrate as much as V, but do you have them? Any vibration?
Perrin FRS BRZ Engine Mount Kit [PSP-DRV-051] - $323.99 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

Doesn't speedfactory sell shift spring?

This is a good combo I guess.
Perrin and Perrin Bushing Combo [PSP-DRV-160-PSP-INR-006] - $74.00 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

Diff and rear subfram bushings? No idea
These?

Megan Racing Rear Differential Bushings [MRS-SC-0603] - $129.95 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

Beatrush Rear Diff Mount Support [S76400MTD-RS] - $182.40 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean soft for track use?
Those are the only rims I want because of being light.
Well, I don't track but... what's being soft for track?

Costco

For the rear diff bushings, I think the best choice is the Whiteline diff insert. Ideally you would just replace the bushings, but I'm not sure how you could do that without dropping the entire rear subframe = massive pain in the asshole.

The solid brace (Beatrush/Cusco style) is a bad idea IMO. Unless it's an all-out track car. It basically makes it a solid mount and will make NVH rise drastically.

RPF1s are great wheels. They just get bent very easily. Potholes, or even just driving over berms on a road course. Going off = almost given that you bend an RPF1. Just be careful.

and I have the shift springs. They're awesome.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

As Costco said, the whiteline inserts are the best compromise. They're easy to install too, which is great. It took me an hour at most for the diff, subframe, and tranny inserts.

I don't have mounts; not sure what I'm doing with the car so I haven't bought anything for it recently.

From what I've heard, the Cusco mounts are slightly softer then the Perrin mounts, but the Perrin mounts are much easier to install. You will feel vibrations at idle with either set though.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

But I am still mixing them up.

This says shift and diff but video shows diff and subframe
Whiteline Shift Kit & Dif Mount Insert [KDT922-KDT926] - $71.81 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

Then what is this?
Whiteline Rear Diff Support Bushing [KDT923] - $53.91 : FT-86 SpeedFactory, Your exclusive source for FR-S / BRZ / GT-86 parts!

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

If any vibrations, then no way to mounts
This car is good for girls. I'll keep it that way
Now way to drone again as well.

Especially after this. I traded my ATLP catback with totally stock exhaust on TL
Just have intake and HFPC
Girl gets in the car, wow car is so loud
Ok get out

Morgan keep the car. Or tell me something more fun, better MPG, good looking car out there.
And this car is fast man. I could keep up whatever comes in front of me on highway.
They say buy a WRX if you want somethhing fast.
I am neck to neck with 2012 model WRX, after 120 I started to pass him.
Or new Evo, I had so much fun with him this week on the way to Rhode Island

There wasn't even once that this car made me dissapointed.
It's really fast and quick in highway. Can't speak for track but...
And all of my runs includes in and out on traffic, so yeah driving gets in too but point is being quick and fast.
Car really gives it.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

Whiteline stuff for everything. Never heard any negative reviews from those.

As for the RPF1s, crapload of my track friends run them. Yes, they do occasionally spin out and run off the track like crazy. Nobody ever bend their RPF1s. I heard they are pretty strong. I have went through some giant vag potholes in LA in my car. No problem so far.

And the good thing about them is that... even if one of them bends, you can replace it for a very cheap price...

I mean I think iBend6+ is more expensive than 2 RPF1s.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

On Sunday, did some nice interior cleaning to Audi and Lexus.
Also washed and waxed my car after 17 days.
I took the Mazda, went to gym.
Starts raining while I am leaving the gym







Mazda got new sparkplugs, engine and cabin filters, oil change, new Michelin Defender tires, new rotors and brakes, tie rods as well.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

So clean. Wow.

And I think couple pages back, I said I liked how your tailight look right now. I take it back. I don't like it. Maybe it's just the pictures, but the color just looks a little off. It looks a little faded? I don't know. I don't know.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

Good point. Cheap.
True

But...
17x9+35 with 245/40/17 = 39.3lbs
Stockies = 40.9lbs



I was expecting better numbers
Only one I would want is 17x8 with 255 tires but that might come to around same weight


Thanks man
My dad's lexus started to have swirls on it and only 3-4k miles
I got 14300 miles, no swirl at all, none no matter where the light hits the paint from hehehe

I knew it damn it. Mixed with chrome, they look pinkish right?
Meh.. I don't want to get them painted because want to see if I will get condensation during winter.
So I could replace em or get a foam for the back or whatever service does ti fix it.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

Have you actually seen the size difference between the stock wheel/tire set up and 17x9 with 245 tires?

It's MASSIVELY wider.

So, keeping the similar weight with massively larger contact patch is actually a win.

The difference it makes is obviously mind blowing. I mean that's how I felt from tracking both set ups on my own car. It was like tracking a completely different car.

If you go with 17x8 with 235s, that's actually the best set up for a stock powered car. But the 17x8 RPF1s look ugly though.

Yeah, it certainly looks pinkish in the picture.

Just keep it as is. You will eventually bite the TOMS or Valenti or other ones.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

That is true as well.
Yeah I know, 17x9 too much for me but 17x8 looks ugly
Saw one FRS parked besides me somewhere. Had 245s both front and back. Looks sexy as as hell from the rear end
Thank god I have mudguards at least and hides the tires hahaha

Ok you just read my mind. I was about to say that I am starting to like blacked out tails
I normall hate it but saw one blacked out FRS on highway. Loved the black tinted tails.

Then which made me think of going with....

oonowindoo

like i said a few months ago...

anything is better than the stock one... *execpt the Chrome Altezza ones*

Do it now!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

If you want lighter wheels then the RPF1s, you'll probably be spending twice the price. My CE28s are about 16lbs each, tires are around 24lbs iirc. The minimal weight savings is absolutely worth it for the grip. The stock tires are garbage and lead to the shitty skidpad numbers you see in magazines.

Whiteline all the things.

If the girl can't deal with a little noise, trade in for a new girl

The issue with the tails is one of the following; overtorqued nuts that crack the back housing of the tails, deformed metal where the taillights mount (because its not reinforced), or most likely, the poor taillight design itself. Water flows down the drip channel around the trunk, under the plastic flap on the tails (because there's no seal there) and over time erodes the taillight gasket and silicone. Block off the gap between the body and the taillight, and you'll stop the tails from fogging up. Both of my taillights did it without any cracks in them, and when I took them off, you could clearly see how water was getting behind the gasket. Don't expect the dealer to fix it. After the third replacement, they'll say the tails arent sealed and will get condensation in them, like most Subaru dealers have claimed (because they're dumbfucks).

And fast is all up to perspective. To me, its slow as hell. I love the car, but the tractor engine completely ruins it. At high rpm, it sounds like the pistons are going to eat themselves. It doesn't like to rev. The power band feels just like my old non-VTEC D15 in my Civic, it just doesn't rev as quickly. The amount of blown motors on the forums is mind boggling. It really shows the weaknesses with the FA20 (oiling first and foremost), and even the built motors haven't been proven as they're still using the factory oil pump. There's one shop that supposedly figured out how to get the pressures up, but they haven't fully proven it, aside from some street pulls.

And no, I'm not bitter about this car at all. Nope, not one bit.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

but Morgan...the real question is...







will it buff out?




Rant away, man...that's your true feeling on the car...wow!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

They took so many shortcuts with this car, it makes you wonder what took so long to bring it to market. And it's infuriating because it could be a phenomenal car. Unfortunately for us, it'll be a phenomenal car after the end user is left to fix all of its shortcomings.

Hopefully the second generation is a Toyota-only vehicle, built in their factory with their tech. You can really see how badly Subaru didn't want to build this car. It's a parts bin job.

And sorry Meko. Your car looks clean.

MEKO

iTrader: (1)

I knew this was coming

My best bet would be 17x8 with 235 tires then... or even try to keep 17x7.5 in front.

I noticed that gap where it gets the water from, but TL had like a foam behind the tails, when you torque the bolts, foam was closing the gaps pretty tight. Wondered if I could build something like that but... anyways will see when it's time to take them off.

That girl is traded... hahaha

Those stories about the engine makes me step back from keeping the car for life..

Enjoying the car really makes me want to improve the N/A with mods but... always doubt behind

I don't even feel like tuning the car for exhaust/intake bolt ons.
What if....................

Wait for the new gay Mx-5

True that it doesn't rev up quickly but I blame the stock car.
TL became a beast after intake and exhaust, thinking this car could do something like that too but then there is engine failure

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

There is a foam gasket between the body and taillight, but its thin, stiff foam. It wears away and doesn't maintain a good seal. Get these if you ever take the taillights off:

http://gasketninja.com

They're made by my friend, Chris. He's a good guy, and I'm running a set on mine. I also picked up some silicone gasket maker to apply to the taillight/gasket surface and the gasket/body surface. I have butyl rubber that I've been meaning to use to block off that gap, but haven't gotten around to it.

I had an intake and exhaust, and it did nothing to help the lazy revs.

Maybe some day the FA20 will behave like a true sportcar engine from the factory/with minimal mods, but I'm not holding my breath. This isn't a Honda engine...

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

I haven't been on FT86 forum forever, so I don't know how things are there in general.

But then, I do have a lot of local 86 guys running multiple supercharger and turbocharger set up. A handful of them are actually tracking the car without much problem. The abuse you put on the car by tracking is MUCH harsher than doing couple WOT runs on the public road. So, tracking a forced induction car that is NA from the factory means something. One of my closest 86 friends has had the Innovative S/C on his 86 for over a year. He drives like a crazy ass but his engine has zero problems.

I mean there are so many things that can go wrong when you actually go forced induction. It's always a great idea to have the right people with the right equipment and right knowledge to work on the car, especially the tuning knowledge.

It's still in a fairly new stage. The engine is a brand new type. It's N/A from the factory. The risk is pretty damn high.

Just gotta wait couple more years to see what really works and what doesn't. Morgan was brave enough to jump on the gun in the very beginning stage of forced induction for FA20. That takes some serious effort and guts.

I'm set on going forced induction when my warranty runs out. That's still 2-3 years away, and I have zero doubts in doing it. Hopefully, by the time I get to go F/I, I would actually be ready to handle that 35-45% more power on the track. I can't even properly go all out on my stock power at the track. I'm the bottleneck, not the car.

And MEKO, go 17x9. Trust me. It looks 10000 times better than smaller set up. And do NOT go staggered set up. Our cars are meant to run the squared set up for the balanced handling purpose.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I know a handful of people that are super/turbo charged as well. One of my friends here runs the Sprintex aftercooled kit with a flex fuel kit. It's a quick car, but with a stock block and those power levels, if you're not watching your oil temp and pressure regularly, you're going to run into problems. These cars run hot from the factory. Oil weight is dependent on oil temperature, and when our oil temps are hovering around 240* on track days (hell, my friend has seen oil temps that high in traffic), the oil breaks down. When the oil breaks down, your pressure drops. Once you're below ~40psi on this engine, you're damaging bearings. Most of the higher powered track cars I know of are running 10w40 oil, and even then, they require 20-30 minute cool downs between runs - and that's with an oil cooler.

And the engine being brand new and n/a from the factory should not be an accepted excuse for the amount (and similarity) of failures that owners have been plagued with, even at stock power levels. Shortly before (and plenty after) my motor blew, there were others throughout the country that suffered from the same issues I saw, with zero modifications to their car. My engine did not blow due to the tune or the supercharger. It blew due to the oiling system.


But yea Meko, don't run staggered wheels.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

At least it looks cool not performing well

My rsx, I had to drill a little hole in the tails after 2 replacements to drain the fkng water out. I think all new cars have shortcomings.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I really do apologize for the rant, Meko.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

Morgan,

It's okay.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I have to say, if you guys can still get a good amount of cash for your cars, why not move onto something you feel fulfilled with?