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I know man, front is low as my TL with A-Spec on and 25" lowered haha
Let me know. Crossworth is what I would go with IFFF I wanted one but too much monaaay
I was like, I am getting a Wrangler to my friend.. he replied saying, goin with a two floor garage at home?
It's hard to go to the track for the first time, but once you've tried it, it's hard not to go back again and again.
BTW man.. You need to pick up a set of nice coilovers soon. You will it.
It's so much more fun with it.
I think I missed your post somewhere. Did you say you have the track brake pads?
Cheaper then a speeding ticket too, sooo...
No, I got stock brakes and pads. By the end of the session during hot midday (Session 2), brakes started to jump all over
Thanks to Morgie, cheapest coil I would get starts from $1500. At least.
Price's one thing pushes me away, and I can't lower this car unless I get a Wrangler, which I want a lot. At the end I will just lower it an inch, so that's why it really doesn't pull my attention maybe. Kind of last thing in my list.
Cheaper then a speeding ticket too, sooo...
No, I got stock brakes and pads. By the end of the session during hot midday (Session 2), brakes started to jump all over
Thanks to Morgie, cheapest coil I would get starts from $1500. At least.
Price's one thing pushes me away, and I can't lower this car unless I get a Wrangler, which I want a lot. At the end I will just lower it an inch, so that's why it really doesn't pull my attention maybe. Kind of last thing in my list.
Nice avi by the way!
It's SO MUCH cheaper than a speeding ticket. And you actually get to speed without worrying about being pulled over. It's like almost 1 hour 30 minutes worth of going FULL THROTTLE. You will not be able to do that on the public road ever.
You should definitely get the brake pads and fluid, if you want to track couple times a year. It's a huge upgrade. Our cars don't need any fancy rotors nor BBK until you become a good driver.
For the coils, why don't you pick up the one that I have. Tein Street Flex. I got mine brand new shipped for $1K even. Free shipping/no tax. It's on clearance because there's a new Tein line that's coming out to replace the Street Flex line. It's awesome though. Fully adjustable and comes with the camber plate for the fronts. Can't beat the value.
Anyway, enjoy the car man! It's so glorious to drive.
Brakes should be my next upgrade, true. Will see after installing all the new things to the car.
That sounds like a pretty good deal actually but still... PLUS then I will want 17x9 +35 for damn sure once lowered
Next summer is the time for those may be. Too much going on for now haha
THe W2 is a step up from the W1. It still provides a very consistent feel of the stock pads, use parameters are the same, where it is mainly designed for street use, but with a lot more overhead and the most sporting of the pads that are still non-metallic. Because it is non-metallic like the W1, it has no significant dust issue or noise levels to be concerned. W2 increases driver control feel, a bit more bite, and higher temperature ranges and predictable fall off for when it does fade eventually. You get a slightly better sporting use characters, and endurance, but still without the concerns associated with racing brakes. Perhaps the best I can recommend if you are a typical casual Sunday low speed track folk, or auto-crosser, and still predominantly daily driven car, on summer radials. It is also a good economical upgrade. It's minimal requirement too, if you are a down-hill canyon enthusiast.
W3 is the most economical grade of so called, "metallic pads" which introduce a ton more braking control, very different bite characters that are more intended for track conditions, and use of race compound tires. If you are an avid track driver, or semi-professional autocrosser, this is where you'd start to see very positive and racing use braking forces. Of course, as with any metallic compound mix brake pads, you will encounter increased rotor wear, noises, and black dusting, and daily driven role becomes more a secondary use. It's still perfectly safe for street, as long as you can deal with dust and slight noises. Some can, others abhor it... That's just a choice for what people place as priority. W3 is VERY capable on the Sunday race scene, totally fir for those who use the brakes to 100% capacity, and driving skills to take it there. Autocrossers and canyon runners will feel a new level of control and bite, that extended consistently into very high temperature ranges. It does strike an exceleent balance for those that need a daily driven brake pad, and are not willing to forgo any performance, at cost of a bit of noise, dust, and slightly higher wear rate.
^
From that "Moto-G" guy on ft86club.
That guy knows well. Love to read whatever he talks about. Always details.
Dangit, I meant W2. I will daily the car more then track, don't want extra rotor wear, noise, nor black dust from W3
Thanks Austin! It is fun! Will be more fun in Intermediate level next time. There were a lot of beginners with the "first time" group.
I know Anil, can't wait. Since I like the JDM tips the most, I went and picked the blue tips to make it look different at least and yeah it might look great with black.
Dangit, I meant W2. I will daily the car more then track, don't want extra rotor wear, noise, nor black dust from W3
Thanks Austin! It is fun! Will be more fun in Intermediate level next time. There were a lot of beginners with the "first time" group.
I know Anil, can't wait. Since I like the JDM tips the most, I went and picked the blue tips to make it look different at least and yeah it might look great with black.
Not sure how W2 will be for the track use. But it should be significantly better than the OEM pads.
My Project Mu Club Racer ones are equivalent to W6. A lot of brake dust and squeal. It does wear out the stock rotors faster, but it's easy to pick up the stock rotors for super cheap like under $50 on the forum. haha
I didn't check it while at the track but those numbers are from right after the track and doing 20-30 mph at the pit. Turned it on at the pit.
I did force the car a lot in the last session too.
If the ambient temp was under 80, no problem at all. My oil temps go up to like 240 sometimes when I do 20-30mins of session. I think if you get an oil cooler, it stays at 210 forever.
but as I said, 240 oil temp is not bad if you are on a track...yes for city/highway, that is insane...
just an FYI, when you install the oil cooler in front of the radiator, you are robbing the radiator of cooler air...I saw my coolant temps go up by 5-10 deg across the board since my transmission cooler is sitting right on the radiator...so again make sure there is ample 'fresh' air flow
05-12-2015, 12:15 AM
I was like, I am getting a Wrangler to my friend.. he replied saying, goin with a two floor garage at home?
DSC05050 by Me Kocaman, on Flickr
I am done haha
Now I know what you've been talking about 
it. 
DSC05171 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05182 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05176 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05173 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05174 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05175 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05178 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05179 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
DSC05183 by Mehmet Kocaman, on Flickr
