JS+MS3's 2010 Mazdaspeed3 Updates (Still a 4x4)!
02-16-2012, 04:11 PM
#961
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
i bet people have given you great advice so far but i will chime in anyway.
do not let air out of your tires on your first run. you need a baseline.
when at the tree you will be asked to the pre-stage lights, as you roll forward the first yellows come on and then you roll forward a bit more for the 2nd stage read lights.
-i typically do not roll onto the 2nd stage ready lights until my opponent give me a nod or rolls up.
once at the tree you will have a countdown, do not leave when the green is on. leave when the last yellow turns on. this will net you a great reaction time since it takes .500 for your brain to tell your foot to hit the gas.
Preloading:
driving a FWD high powered car is a bit difficult but it doesnt mean you have to run shitty times, this is where preloading comes in.
preloading simply means finding your optimal launch RPM (whatever that may be) holding that RPM in place and slowly releasing your clutch pedal until your car is on the verge of moving. this will get your right at the perfect spot to release the clutch and go without too much slipping or wheel hop.
the reason i pre-load is because it prevents the sudden jerk of the engine when you launch and the weight transfer is minimized.
once you are on your way focus on your tach, shift 100-200RPM before your fuel cut (this takes time to get perfect) remember your clutch pedal doesnt need to be slammed all the way down to allow you to get in and out of gear, if you can learn to shift rapidly at your clutch sweet spot that will be good for a few tenths.
If you have wheel hop, ease off the gas slowly. if you have wheel spin, stay in it, the tires will grip and be ready for your next run.
if at any minute you feel that youre going to lose control or go into the other lane LET OFF and coast. no sense in killing anyone.
some more tips:
go around the water unless you have slicks.
do not do burnouts as radials just get greasy.
open your hood between runs and let the engine cool off.
since your car is turbo i wouldn't shut it off between runs.
drop 4 psi per run till you find the perfect amount of spin and grip.
inflate your rears to 40 PSI
i currently drive a 93 civic hatch with a b swap. i used to have a swapped 6mt 2nd gen TL
do not let air out of your tires on your first run. you need a baseline.
when at the tree you will be asked to the pre-stage lights, as you roll forward the first yellows come on and then you roll forward a bit more for the 2nd stage read lights.
-i typically do not roll onto the 2nd stage ready lights until my opponent give me a nod or rolls up.
once at the tree you will have a countdown, do not leave when the green is on. leave when the last yellow turns on. this will net you a great reaction time since it takes .500 for your brain to tell your foot to hit the gas.
Preloading:
driving a FWD high powered car is a bit difficult but it doesnt mean you have to run shitty times, this is where preloading comes in.
preloading simply means finding your optimal launch RPM (whatever that may be) holding that RPM in place and slowly releasing your clutch pedal until your car is on the verge of moving. this will get your right at the perfect spot to release the clutch and go without too much slipping or wheel hop.
the reason i pre-load is because it prevents the sudden jerk of the engine when you launch and the weight transfer is minimized.
once you are on your way focus on your tach, shift 100-200RPM before your fuel cut (this takes time to get perfect) remember your clutch pedal doesnt need to be slammed all the way down to allow you to get in and out of gear, if you can learn to shift rapidly at your clutch sweet spot that will be good for a few tenths.
If you have wheel hop, ease off the gas slowly. if you have wheel spin, stay in it, the tires will grip and be ready for your next run.
if at any minute you feel that youre going to lose control or go into the other lane LET OFF and coast. no sense in killing anyone.
some more tips:
go around the water unless you have slicks.
do not do burnouts as radials just get greasy.
open your hood between runs and let the engine cool off.
since your car is turbo i wouldn't shut it off between runs.
drop 4 psi per run till you find the perfect amount of spin and grip.
inflate your rears to 40 PSI
i currently drive a 93 civic hatch with a b swap. i used to have a swapped 6mt 2nd gen TL
I do have Launch Control and Flat Foot Shifting. Should I use both of them? I can set the LC to be at any RPM and I found out that around 2500rpm is the best. I don't know how the road condition is at the track since I've never been to one, but on regular street, when I use my LC, the car just shoots out of the hole. I kinda have to shift into 2nd pretty fast.
And my car pulls the hardest up to 6000rpm, after that it just keeps the power but doesn't pull any harder. So, I should shift when it's at like 5900rpm, correct?
Hopefully, the day won't be too hot!
02-16-2012, 05:26 PM
#962
Because of the stickier surface of the track 2500rpm may be too low. I used to launch my TL at 4000 rpm. No was I could do that on the street and not leave tire chunks on the doors.
What is your redline? And what does your power band look like? Give me gear ratios too if u have them and the speeds at which each gear ends.
What is your redline? And what does your power band look like? Give me gear ratios too if u have them and the speeds at which each gear ends.
02-16-2012, 06:28 PM
#963
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Let me post some datalogs for you later today.
The following users liked this post:
phee (02-16-2012)
02-16-2012, 10:38 PM
#964
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
02-16-2012, 10:42 PM
#965
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
As you can see, the car pulls hardest up until 6k rpm and kinda tapers off from there. My redline is at 6.7k though. But it was proven from other Mazdaspeed3 members that it's best to shift at 6k to achieve the best result at the drag strip.
I can add about 1-1.5 timing for more aggressive map. But if I add +2 timing, I get KR. California really gets some gay quality gas.
I can add about 1-1.5 timing for more aggressive map. But if I add +2 timing, I get KR. California really gets some gay quality gas.
02-16-2012, 10:43 PM
#966
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
So, the track is stickier than the street, right?
02-16-2012, 10:59 PM
#967
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Oh yeah, Calculate = Calculated Load
02-18-2012, 10:16 AM
#972
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Cool. I'll do couple runs with different shifting point to see how it is. 
02-18-2012, 11:32 AM
#973
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I swear Mazda probably paid MSN to have MS3 in that dumb list. 
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/cars-cops-fear
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/cars-cops-fear
02-18-2012, 11:54 AM
#974
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
02-18-2012, 01:44 PM
#976
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Maybe I'm missing something. Let me get the dyno graphs from others who have the same mods.
Most people who are tuned with the stock k04 turbo shift at 6000rpm to get the fastest time.
We got no VTEC.
Only the BT guys run it up to 6700rpm.
Most people who are tuned with the stock k04 turbo shift at 6000rpm to get the fastest time.
We got no VTEC.
Only the BT guys run it up to 6700rpm.
02-18-2012, 01:55 PM
#978
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
No VTEC, Yes Smile.
02-18-2012, 01:58 PM
#979
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Here you go. This guy has everything that I have plus a Downpipe as well as FMIC. But the power points should be similar.
02-18-2012, 01:58 PM
#980
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Ewwww, unibrow!
02-18-2012, 01:59 PM
#981
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yea, I think shifting closer to 6k where the power trails off will put you right into peak torque.
02-20-2012, 01:20 AM
#983
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
These pics were taken more than a year ago. Was just bored at home, so I processed them.
Like 3 minutes into processing them, I realized why I didn't touch these when I shot them. They are pretty shitty. But I'm posting them anyway.
Like 3 minutes into processing them, I realized why I didn't touch these when I shot them. They are pretty shitty. But I'm posting them anyway.
Last edited by JS + XES; 02-20-2012 at 01:26 AM.
02-20-2012, 01:27 AM
#984
אני עומד עם ישראל
^ license plate light out
Car still looks good.
Car still looks good.
02-20-2012, 06:27 AM
#985
That car would love a CCFL plate light... 
Have you ever checked out one of those $20 OBDII bluetooth readers and the android app called "Torque"!?!?
I just got it and am AMAZED at what it can do. Your graphs up there reminded me of it.
Have you ever checked out one of those $20 OBDII bluetooth readers and the android app called "Torque"!?!?
I just got it and am AMAZED at what it can do. Your graphs up there reminded me of it.
02-20-2012, 11:49 AM
#986
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Thanks guys. The license plate lights had been changed to white LED soon after that shoot.
And yes, I've heard a lot of good things regarding that app. Good to hear that you like it.
And yes, I've heard a lot of good things regarding that app. Good to hear that you like it.
02-20-2012, 05:05 PM
#988
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I liked Torque and the bluetooth adapter - when it worked. The adapter worked for about a month.
02-21-2012, 12:04 AM
#989
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
But really, MS3 does very well on the twisties. Google up Insideline review of my car. They did a review just on suspension geometry of 2010 Mazdaspeed3. Mazda didn't touch anything on the engine spec for the second generation because they didn't have to. It's just the handling department that they really focused on improving. It certainly shows.
I loved my 3G TL so much, but in terms of cornering/fun department, it's incomparable to MS3.
You just gotta do a test drive at the dealer. You'll know.
As for the interior space, I just bought a Samsung 55 3D TV and fit that in my car. That TV is fucking huge. That should give you an idea of the utility side of this little hatchback.
02-21-2012, 06:47 AM
#990
To me, a hatchback is the ultimate automobile. And this one is fast also...and affordable. Doesn't get much better than that.
civic, that sucks to hear...had to be within warranty, no? My buddy has a cheap one too, been using it for a couple of years. I love it so far.
J.
civic, that sucks to hear...had to be within warranty, no? My buddy has a cheap one too, been using it for a couple of years. I love it so far.
J.
02-21-2012, 10:19 AM
#991
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Nope, there was I think a 14 day money back guarantee, no warranty though. Doesnt matter to me, I will have no use for the OBDII port soon 
02-21-2012, 10:40 AM
#993
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Who told you I was going to carbs???
02-21-2012, 10:46 AM
#994
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
You guys need to get the cars that work with Cobb AP. It's so fun learning about tuning. Very freaking user friendly too. 
I think I'll get 135 or 335 for my car and get a GTR after? Just because Cobb supports those platforms.
I think I'll get 135 or 335 for my car and get a GTR after? Just because Cobb supports those platforms.
02-21-2012, 12:50 PM
#996
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
02-21-2012, 08:47 PM
#998
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
02-22-2012, 05:40 PM
#999
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
So... next Monday is my birthday and one of my best friends told me that he'll buy me anything that's under $300. I found 2 items that are right under $300.
GoPro = $290 Prime from Amazon
Swift Springs = $299 Shipped
I really really really want both for my bday, but I can only get one.... Which one should I get?
Just to let you guys know, even if I get the springs, I won't install them until later when I decide to get a set of shocks. I'm enjoying every moment with my new rims and tires right now.
GoPro = $290 Prime from Amazon
Swift Springs = $299 Shipped
I really really really want both for my bday, but I can only get one.... Which one should I get?
Just to let you guys know, even if I get the springs, I won't install them until later when I decide to get a set of shocks. I'm enjoying every moment with my new rims and tires right now.
