JS+MS3's 2010 Mazdaspeed3 Updates (Still a 4x4)!
#601
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
^ Haha thanks for the offer, but they're a little too aggressive for the MS6. The widest I'd go is 8" and +45 offset.
#602
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#603
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Ordered an Oil Catch Can
I was going to order it after I do the engine cleaning around 20k miles, but I got a sweet deal on a almost brand new one...
http://www.saikoumichi.com/Stage2OCC.htm
I was going to order it after I do the engine cleaning around 20k miles, but I got a sweet deal on a almost brand new one...
http://www.saikoumichi.com/Stage2OCC.htm
#605
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
It's $160 brand new, I got it for $130 shipped. This is for everything. You have an option of getting a OCC itself.
I don't know which is popular on GTI, you should do some research on it. But, definitely get one for your engine.
There's a long thread on Mazdaspeed forum that did a comparison of various OCC. I forgot the detailed parts on it, but the verdict was "don't cheap out on OCC".
I don't know which is popular on GTI, you should do some research on it. But, definitely get one for your engine.
There's a long thread on Mazdaspeed forum that did a comparison of various OCC. I forgot the detailed parts on it, but the verdict was "don't cheap out on OCC".
#606
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Nothing wrong with the $40 Greddy knock-off catch cans on eBay (the square one, not the cylinders). Just make sure you open it and put some steel wool in there to catch the oil (it helps against the vacuum sucking some of the oil back through). Definitely replace the hoses though.
That catch can you got looks pretty nice though.
PS - why does the site say its $110?
That catch can you got looks pretty nice though.
PS - why does the site say its $110?
#607
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Nothing wrong with the $40 Greddy knock-off catch cans on eBay. Just make sure you open it and put some steel wool in there to catch the oil (it helps against the vacuum sucking some of the oil back through). Definitely replace the hoses though.
That catch can you got looks pretty nice though.
That catch can you got looks pretty nice though.
Our local MSF members are having an install meet at the end of August, so I think that's when I'm going to probably install this.
#608
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
and who cares about OCC... your AVATAR IS HAWT
who's that?
who's that?
#609
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I have no idea who it is. I need to find out.
And I hear you on the laziness part. Ive had my new catch can for nearly a year but Im too lazy to build the bracket, so I just bought a new one that comes with it
#610
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
^ come on man.. find out who she is..
And see? That's why I bought a full kit!
And see? That's why I bought a full kit!
#611
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Update on tuning:
Increased timing by 4* from 2500-6k RPM
Set the cooling fan to come on at 194* instead of 215*
Raised the idle speed from 700-750RPM to 900-950RPM which will help the PCV system to run cleaner, i.e. keep more sludge out of your intake manifold
The car is running pretty damn well with this revision! It's the first time adjusting the timing. I've spent about 5 months to dial in the fueling and boosting.
Please don't say increasing timing like that will trash my stock block or something. I'm still on a pretty conservative threshold. ALso, I have about 60 datalogs of WOT runs for the past 5 months to monitor how the car is actually responding to the adjustments that are being made on the tune.
And I don't really drive during the day at all due to work, so the high temp in Socal is not really an issue for my car.
Increased timing by 4* from 2500-6k RPM
Set the cooling fan to come on at 194* instead of 215*
Raised the idle speed from 700-750RPM to 900-950RPM which will help the PCV system to run cleaner, i.e. keep more sludge out of your intake manifold
The car is running pretty damn well with this revision! It's the first time adjusting the timing. I've spent about 5 months to dial in the fueling and boosting.
Please don't say increasing timing like that will trash my stock block or something. I'm still on a pretty conservative threshold. ALso, I have about 60 datalogs of WOT runs for the past 5 months to monitor how the car is actually responding to the adjustments that are being made on the tune.
And I don't really drive during the day at all due to work, so the high temp in Socal is not really an issue for my car.
#612
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
^ That kind of talk makes me want to get an AP.
#613
#615
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...6975663324.gif
#616
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
It's really fun. I promise. Not just because you get to make more power. It's the learning experience that makes you love your car more.
There are a lot of things you can read in this sub-section called MSF University. There are a lot of tuning experts on MSF actually. If you haven't noticed already, a lot of members' signature has that PERM TUNE emoticon. Those people are the one who had been E-TUNED by this member called DJ. Almost everyone is getting about 30-40whp/wtq just by getting tuned by him without any problems.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f532/
Can I thank you 200 times?
I'll let my friend wikipedia answer this
Dyno tuning
Setting the ignition timing while monitoring engine power output with a dynamometer is one way to correctly set the ignition timing. After advancing or retarding the timing, a corresponding change in power output will usually occur. A load type dynamometer is the best way to accomplish this as the engine can be held at a steady speed and load while the timing is adjusted for maximum output.
Using a knock sensor to find the correct timing is one method used to tune an engine. In this method, the timing is advanced until knock occurs. The timing is then retarded one or two degrees and set there. After achieving the desired power characteristics for a given engine load/rpm, the spark plugs should be inspected for signs of engine detonation. If there are any such signs, the ignition timing should be retarded until there are none.
Another method for setting up the ignition timing on a load type dynamometer is to slowly advance the timing until the power measured by the dynamometer does not increase anymore, then subtract 1-2 degrees for the final advance value.
There are a lot of things you can read in this sub-section called MSF University. There are a lot of tuning experts on MSF actually. If you haven't noticed already, a lot of members' signature has that PERM TUNE emoticon. Those people are the one who had been E-TUNED by this member called DJ. Almost everyone is getting about 30-40whp/wtq just by getting tuned by him without any problems.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f532/
Dyno tuning
Setting the ignition timing while monitoring engine power output with a dynamometer is one way to correctly set the ignition timing. After advancing or retarding the timing, a corresponding change in power output will usually occur. A load type dynamometer is the best way to accomplish this as the engine can be held at a steady speed and load while the timing is adjusted for maximum output.
Using a knock sensor to find the correct timing is one method used to tune an engine. In this method, the timing is advanced until knock occurs. The timing is then retarded one or two degrees and set there. After achieving the desired power characteristics for a given engine load/rpm, the spark plugs should be inspected for signs of engine detonation. If there are any such signs, the ignition timing should be retarded until there are none.
Another method for setting up the ignition timing on a load type dynamometer is to slowly advance the timing until the power measured by the dynamometer does not increase anymore, then subtract 1-2 degrees for the final advance value.
#617
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Anyway, at least for MS3 with a stock K04 turbo, 18.5psi - 19psi is the maximum as far as turning up the boost in Cali (shitty gasoline)
Also, the K04 turbos are so small that pushing the boost more than 19psi is just not a good idea. The gain is extremely minimal (diminishing return i guess), but the boost air temp shoots up HIGH.
That's why we dialed in the fueling and boosting part of the tune first. My car is running very safely with those two things dialed in. So, now I'm going to try to advance the timing slowly to see how much can my car can handle. I will slowly up the timing to the point where I get KR. Then, I'll just retard the timing just a little bit on that RPM area where it was giving me KR.
Then, I'll be done till I get any other power mods which will be late next year.
Last edited by JS + XES; 08-04-2011 at 04:44 PM.
#619
We were actually talking about my old avatar. This one:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...6975663324.gif
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...6975663324.gif
#620
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#621
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Where the eff are you getting those cute gifs???
Share
Share
#622
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Just stumbled upon this...
Don't worry, I still love your car.
Don't worry, I still love your car.
#624
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
#625
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Well damn
So since I bumped your thread to post an old ass picture, how's the car?
So since I bumped your thread to post an old ass picture, how's the car?
#627
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
The car's been running really well. It turned out that I couldn't add more than 2-3 degrees anywhere above 5k rpm. I added about 5 degrees from 3k to 5k though. Adding more timing resulted in consistent KR.
I think I'm finally done with my tune with my current performance mods. Fueling, Boosting, and Timing are all dialed in pretty nicely in a safe manner.
I'm going to get a new dogbone style RMM 88D along with a SMM (Side Motor Mount) probably at the end of next month. It's going to cost me only about $100 after I sell my current RMM 75D, so it's not bad at all. This should help me tremendously with minimizing wheel hop.
I don't really launch my car off the line, but when I do I get crazy wheel hop. People have been getting very nice results from swapping out the stock tires with some wider and stickier tires, but that's going to awhile for me. I want to used up all the treads on my stock tires and get a set of rpf1s with some good summer tires next year. When I do get them + Launch Control, it'll help me rocket out off the line.
I think I'm finally done with my tune with my current performance mods. Fueling, Boosting, and Timing are all dialed in pretty nicely in a safe manner.
I'm going to get a new dogbone style RMM 88D along with a SMM (Side Motor Mount) probably at the end of next month. It's going to cost me only about $100 after I sell my current RMM 75D, so it's not bad at all. This should help me tremendously with minimizing wheel hop.
I don't really launch my car off the line, but when I do I get crazy wheel hop. People have been getting very nice results from swapping out the stock tires with some wider and stickier tires, but that's going to awhile for me. I want to used up all the treads on my stock tires and get a set of rpf1s with some good summer tires next year. When I do get them + Launch Control, it'll help me rocket out off the line.
Last edited by JS + XES; 08-24-2011 at 04:59 PM.
#628
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
RPF1s + sticky tires
#629
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I've seen couple members with that set up..... the car just..... takes off. It chirps a little and goes.
#630
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
AWD solves this problem.
#631
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Yep!
But it takes more horses for AWD to match our power!
But it takes more horses for AWD to match our power!
#632
Moderator
#633
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
OMG I'll never able to even keep up with you. NEVER. Maybe if I BT and put all the supporting mods, which should cost me about $4k. But I would never do that with my car.
But please visit socal sometimes, I'll treat you some KBBQ, ONLY if you let me drive your M5 once. haha I've driven M3 several times but never driven M5 before.
But please visit socal sometimes, I'll treat you some KBBQ, ONLY if you let me drive your M5 once. haha I've driven M3 several times but never driven M5 before.
#634
Moderator
I'll let you know if I'm over that way...test drive is a given.
#635
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Cool man!
#637
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
#638
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
Update on the MS3? Done anything new to it lately?
I just ordered some Denso ITV22s for the MS6.
I just ordered some Denso ITV22s for the MS6.
#639
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I've been working and studying (both full-time) for the past 3 months.. and have to continue this for another 9 months..
AND I'm getting married back in Korea next March. I basically have no free time to do anything almost til next summer.
I'm so depressed these days.
When I'm done with all these stuff, I'm going to order a set of lightweight rims with some good meaty tires. Probably going to end up with rpf1s in 17x9. Oh yeah, I'll put in Swift Springs with the combo to drop the car about 1 inch.
Were you getting some KR? The ITV22s should help you out a lot! How's the car running with the Accessport? Made any key adjustments on the tune yet?
AND I'm getting married back in Korea next March. I basically have no free time to do anything almost til next summer.
I'm so depressed these days.
When I'm done with all these stuff, I'm going to order a set of lightweight rims with some good meaty tires. Probably going to end up with rpf1s in 17x9. Oh yeah, I'll put in Swift Springs with the combo to drop the car about 1 inch.
Were you getting some KR? The ITV22s should help you out a lot! How's the car running with the Accessport? Made any key adjustments on the tune yet?