My wife was driving her car (90 Plymouth Sundance) and it felt like it was dying. Not like a battery or alt dying but more like the engine or tranny. She was able to park at a local nearby park (please hurry as they might tow) and was not able to restart the car. When she starts the car it's trying to turn over but it doesn't. All lights and electrical work. The dang thing won't start. We just did an oil change at a Goodyear on Friday but those places are always shady. I usually do her changes but the last time she did it I was out of town and she took it to Pep Boys where they totally stripped the screw in the oil pan. So I took it to Goodyear where they wanted to charge me $10 for a freakin nut I told him it was too much and he went ahead and lowered his price but I'm thinking he might've messed with something else since he felt I nagged him. Also we use 10w-40, which they've been putting in that car since I've known her. They might've put in 10w-30 which is a little thinner but I doubt we lost the oil. The engine would've ceased by now. I added a quart of 10w-40 just in case. The car does leak oil little by little but nothing major. Any idea what's wrong.

 

No idea whats wrong but that really sucks. It is always good to have a friend with a tow dolly for these kinds of situations.

Good luck, hope it isn't anything to bad to fix.

 

Check for spark. Make sure your distributor didn't wear out. If it has, very easy to replace, and inexpensive (about $10-$15).

 

I have a distributorless car so I don't know how to check for spark on this one. Help I'm slow.

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm

One way is to disconnect the spark plug from a cylinder and lightly tough it to the engine block (away from the battery). Have someone try to start the engine and if you see it spark against the block, then it might be working fine. There is a chance you could shock yourself, so please proceed with caution. If you're not comfortable trying this, then DON'T DO IT; let a mechanic look at your car. I don't want to be responsible for you hurting yourself, and or your car. Don't try to crank the engine too much, just a couple times to verify.

More information on testing for spark here.

When I had a Sundance, there was a black cap where 5 wires were connected. Four of them go to each spark plug in the engine, and the one in the center goes to the ignition coil. If you find this device, you've most likely found the distributor.

If you watch the diagram in the link I posted, you'll see how you can verify if you have ignition based on how the system works. You can also take apart the distributor to see if the wires, leads, and rotor are in a healthy condition. If they look burnt, rusted and/or worn, then there’s a good chance you might not be getting ignition. If this is the cause of your issue, the wire set for a Sundance actually has the leads that push through the distributor cap. I'd replace the cap, rotor, and wires upon a poor inspection. The rotor spins and rubs against the metal tips of each wire. By design it will eventually wear out, it’s only a matter of time.

 

We have it parked in the mall of the Goodyear. She might either ask them or her uncle to look at it. I'll ask them to check that first. It could be that not enough juice is getting to the engine to turnover huh? That could be why the lights still work but maybe not the engine as the battery might be fine. Any chance it could be something like the fuel pump? Thanks for your help.

 

I didn't think to mention the fuel pump...good tought. That's another viable reason for it not starting. Sometimes you can hear them purge when you first turn the key to the ignition. I don't know how to test them otherwise.

Another basic thing you can check is the fuse panel. Make sure none have come loose, or burned out. Are you sure it isn't the battery? Does it click when you try to start it, or is does the engine turn over weak?

 

Neither. It sounds strong when it tries. Definitely no click which it has done in the past.

 

out of gas?

 

Nope

 

There are usually only three major problems. Not enough air, not enough spark, not enough gas. If it is controlled by computer, the computer systems are sometimes bad. You have had plenty of good suggestions above, I.E. no spark, no gas, fuse, battery. The oil shouldn't be a problem. I'd check your fuses, your cap and rotor, and your sending unit for your gas. Is it fuel injected? I'm assuming it is; if it is, then it's best just to take it to someone to see if your getting enough gas, or if the computer is registering. Otherwise, do as above.

 

Is the kill switch engaged?

 

Now that's funny

Check that too.

 

an easy thing to do is get some starting fluid.

open up your air cleaner remove the filter and see if you can spray a little inside.

then if you start it and it sputters a little bit or even almost starts, then you have it narrowed down a bit. (hint: dont spray while you are starting it. spray. stop spray. start.)

my ford pickup stopped starting all of a sudden one day. i traced it back to a blown fusible link to the fuel pump. that sucked. took forever to trace out. but i sprayed starting fluid and it sputtered a bit so i figured it wasn't getting fuel. so with a meter and a haynes repair manual i traced out the circuit from the pump back to the blown link.

good luck.

 

Well my wife's uncle (used to be a plane mechanic) took a look at it. He said that the rotor and distributor don't turn so he thinks that the timing belt might be busted. He recommended a compression check to know if any valves broke which means big $$$ if he's right. I gotta see if I know anyone who can check that. What do you guys think? Could it still be something else?

 

dead battery?

 

that sounds like it could be it. that sucks if thats the case tho.

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...ming_belts.htm

If the timing belt breaks on a non-interference design, there is enough clearance between the pistons and valves to prevent damaging contact. An interference design does not have sufficient clearance between those parts and engine damage would result from a broken timing belt.

if your engine size has a "Yes" next to it. then most likely valve damage has occured.

Diamler-Chrysler
Engine Interference Replace
1.4 Yes 60,000
1.6 (SOHC) Yes 60,000
1.6 (DOHC) Yes 60,000
1.7 No N/A
1.8 Yes 60,000
2.0 (SOHC) No 60,000
2.0 (DOHC) Yes 60,000
2.2 (SOHC) No 90,000
2.3 (Diesel) Yes 50,000
2.4 (SOHC) Yes N/A
2.4 (DOHC) Yes 60,000
2.5 (4 Cyl.) No 90,000
2.5 (V-6) Yes 90,000
3.0 (SOHC) No N/A
3.0 (DOHC) Yes 90,000
3.2 (DOHC) Yes 90,000
3.5 No N/A

 

I believe it has a 2.2L I4 SOHC. Depending on the model, it could have the 2.5L I4 SOHC. He might be in the clear if it is the timing belt.

 

New news.

A second mechanic looked at it but I wasn't there when he checked. He says he checked the timing belt which wasn't broken. After reveiwing the car for 90 minutes in front of my wife and her mom he said that the distributor probably broke as everything electrical was working properly. He's going to try a new distributor to see what will happen. With labor he is charging $180 including the part. Does this make sense?

 

If a mechanic came out to check the distributor and rotor, then he should of had it checked to see if the coil could make a spark, or atleast if the spark plugs are getting a spark. Wheres the mechanic from?

 

I think Cuban. He works as a mechanic but this is some side action. He was recommended by mother-in-law's friend who owns a construction company. I mention this because this mechanic does all their work. I don't know what checks he did exactly since I wasn't there and my wife doesn't know an intake from a steering wheel. He said that if it didn't correct it he's return the distributor and keep looking for the problem.

 

It wasnt a starter?

 

So far no. It's still not 100% settled until he actually changes.

 

If its the starter...you can usually tap on it while trying to crank it....if it starts...you need a new starter...if it doesnt, might not be the starter.

 

Huh??? What do you mean by tapping. Do you mean literally? If that bitch started by tapping it I'd be beating that car's ass everyday.

 

did he take the cap off and try to start it? if he did and the distributer turns then i would think some other tests would be needed to see if the distributer is bad or not. but if he is gonna replace it and not charge you if that doesn't fix it...then cool. let him have at it.

 

'90 Plymouth Sundance? The best way to solve the problem is to buy a new car.

 

 

That'll be next year. We're buying a house beginning of next year. Then my Accord will be paid off in Oct. I work for GMAC so I might go that route or get a Highlander. The car drives fine, engine wise a few minor problems, but yeah it's on the way out.

 

The starter....use a long flat head screw driver and tap the back with a hammer...whiel someone is cranking the car...

 

Timing belt was broken after all. Distributor getting returned. Cost installed $320. No engine damage. Should start after install. I'll let you all know tonight.

 

Good news there was no valve damage. I guess the list wipe0ut posted was accurate.

If you've never changed the cap and rotor, I'd still say it's worth the $10-$15 to get that and maybe a new set of wires. Best case you'll get some better fuel economy and better power. I used to run splitfire spark plugs in my 91 sundance and I noticed the difference. It wasn't drastic, but worth it.

 

He's actually changing the water pump too and towing the car from the shopping center where I pushed it 1/4 mile to all included in the price. I gave him $200 today to get the parts and his "deposit". I should have the car tomorrow night or Saturday. I asked him to check the valves just in case but he's pretty sure there was no damage as he did say that cars like mine (imports) would tend to break.

 

Well I saw the old belt and like 6 ridges of the belt were gone. The belt itself did not break though. He changed the water pump too as agreed and the car started right up. Thanks guys for the help and especially for the reassurance so that I wouldn't freak it. None of you said the car was lost.