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I think this is the same track that had a shit-show of an event last year or the year before.
This may not be the best place, but we don't have a Legend forum. I didn't see any mention of addressing the ignition system - what's the condition of the plugs, wires, and distributor? What about the oxygen sensor?
Thank you for getting back to me. I have new wires, and have NJK spark plugs which have always let me down on other cars, I just ordered DENSO plugs and they are in coming in tomorrow. I was going to try Aldo "hot" plugs as they worked great in my Jensen, but I've opted out of that idea as that might burn the valves or something bad. I have two oxygen sensors one on the "back" of engine and one on "front". Back is suspect. Should I use penetrating oil on threads so I don't break it off? (or other idea) The distributor "looks" brand new I changed the cap and rotor. What do look at in there? Thank you this is the pointers I was looking for. LOL Since there are probably 5 Sterlings and no Legends left on the road in the US I'm quite sure there won't be any forum.
Have you done a trackday before? In case you haven't, I would recommend finding a good track day organizer that people vouch for.
Not sure how it works at that track, but the ones in my area have some open track days, then other days have time slots for the organizers or whoever books it.
You get don't to go on the track until you undergo a safety class to learn etiquette. Everything is structured and you are put in a group corresponding to your level of experience. They take things very seriously and drill into your head what to do in case X happens.
Originally Posted by civicdrivr
I think this is the same track that had a shit-show of an event last year or the year before.
I haven't done a proper sanctioned day before. Did one of those dream car lapping experiences around this track several years ago.
Aside from hosting a couple weekend events for the local club-racing scene, I think this place in particular does mostly their own open events. Not really familiar what kind of training happens there. I suppose not much.
Thank you for getting back to me. I have new wires, and have NJK spark plugs which have always let me down on other cars, I just ordered DENSO plugs and they are in coming in tomorrow. I was going to try Aldo "hot" plugs as they worked great in my Jensen, but I've opted out of that idea as that might burn the valves or something bad. I have two oxygen sensors one on the "back" of engine and one on "front". Back is suspect. Should I use penetrating oil on threads so I don't break it off? (or other idea) The distributor "looks" brand new I changed the cap and rotor. What do look at in there? Thank you this is the pointers I was looking for. LOL Since there are probably 5 Sterlings and no Legends left on the road in the US I'm quite sure there won't be any forum.
Try to do this systematically to rule out faults. I'm not a mechanic, and this is going to sound like a Holiday Inn Express commercial, but I've seen so many Wheeler Dealers that it seems to me just checking to make sure that what's there works makes more sense than swapping parts. I don't know if a warm engine causes the plugs to stop getting current to make a spark. But that sounds unlikely. I would try to figure out if the engine is still getting fuel when it's warm. I've seen Edd China pull the injector and see if the injector sends fuel into a clear bottle.
There's apparently some way to get the OBD to use the CEL to display a code with long and short flashes on older Hondas. You might want to look at that too.
Thank you for getting back to me. I have new wires, and have NJK spark plugs which have always let me down on other cars, I just ordered DENSO plugs and they are in coming in tomorrow. I was going to try Aldo "hot" plugs as they worked great in my Jensen, but I've opted out of that idea as that might burn the valves or something bad. I have two oxygen sensors one on the "back" of engine and one on "front". Back is suspect. Should I use penetrating oil on threads so I don't break it off? (or other idea) The distributor "looks" brand new I changed the cap and rotor. What do look at in there? Thank you this is the pointers I was looking for. LOL Since there are probably 5 Sterlings and no Legends left on the road in the US I'm quite sure there won't be any forum.
You'd be surprised - I see a few Legends and Vigors on the road still. These two forums still seem pretty active, but I'm not sure what level of support they'd offer:
Hondas have, in my experience, been pretty picky when it comes to spark plugs. Generally, I've had good luck with NGKs, but there's nothing wrong with Densos. Good luck!
Try to do this systematically to rule out faults. I'm not a mechanic, and this is going to sound like a Holiday Inn Express commercial, but I've seen so many Wheeler Dealers that it seems to me just checking to make sure that what's there works makes more sense than swapping parts. I don't know if a warm engine causes the plugs to stop getting current to make a spark. But that sounds unlikely. I would try to figure out if the engine is still getting fuel when it's warm. I've seen Edd China pull the injector and see if the injector sends fuel into a clear bottle.
There's apparently some way to get the OBD to use the CEL to display a code with long and short flashes on older Hondas. You might want to look at that too.
I agree that it shouldn't be the spark plugs, but if they're old/coked up, it may be worth it to replace them anyway. I'm leaning towards O2 sensor, but I've seen some of the pre-OBD Honda's do some funny stuff as a result of the distributor.
Also, if memory serves - those Sterlings have electronics from Lucas, so...
Carrying over from the Supra thread, regarding Toyota's finance offer of 0% for 60 mos. or a $3500 rebate, which is the largest offered for any of their models.
Do manufacturers charge early loan payment penalties? Figure that only banks pull that crap. I only got a loan from elsewhere once, through a credit union. No early repayment fee.
No penalty through Subaru either. Bonus: I was somehow able to make car payments using my Chase Sapphire (that offer is gone now). Racked up a lot of points this way.
Dealership finance departments are unpleasant to deal with, but I noticed they generally have the best rates for new cars, plus they are more willing to play ball on pricing if you tell them you'll finance through them.
Take the cash back, then pay it off early to save a ton of money. Normally only get this kind of deal on an outgoing model year (i.e. 2019), or something that's been sitting there for ages.
For sure, if you get 0% financing you are better off milking it.
But I am a twinge financially irresponsible no matter how old I get, and to combat that I would prefer to just pay it off early and take the cash rebate instead. Otherwise its just extra temptation for me.
I am sure other people could make much better use of the extra money they would have every month though.
I've heard of early payment penalties, but I've never experienced it before. I wouldn't think a factory backed financing offer has that.
With that said, if you qualify 0%, what's the incentive to paying off early? It's not costing you anything to make minimum payments.
It depends on how much you put down and end up financing. I think at $40K financed at any interest rate lower than 3.5% from another lender means take the cash.
I think most people would do better with zero interest.
Agree with you guys, stipulation being if you do have the money but need to bide your time for a year or so, it would probably still be better to just pay off after a year and take the cash?
Holey phuk, I looked at the offers on the Supra. If you take the $3500 cash back, the lowest APR available is 5.04% that's some subpar used car bullcrap. Rate is almost as high as my first auto loan on a used car at age 19 (yeah I know).
I guess this is what financing looks like on low volume models. Anybody finance an Aston lately? What's interest look like for that?
The discount doesn't outweigh the savings on the the 0% offer. For the cash rebate, you'd need to secure a rate lower than 2.5% to save anything.
This. With my credit union's current rates (2.99% for 60mo), the total interest paid on a $50k purchase is nearly $3900. That said, if you plan on paying cash in full, I'd take the $3500.
Originally Posted by Costco
Agree with you guys, stipulation being if you do have the money but need to bide your time for a year or so, it would probably still be better to just pay off after a year and take the cash?
Holey phuk, I looked at the offers on the Supra. If you take the $3500 cash back, the lowest APR available is 5.04% that's some subpar used car bullcrap. Rate is almost as high as my first auto loan on a used car at age 19 (yeah I know).
I guess this is what financing looks like on low volume models. Anybody finance an Aston lately? What's interest look like for that?
BYO financing or use the dealer to get you through to a bank. Toyota doesn't care to finance Supra's when their money is being made on Highlanders, Rav4's and Siennas.
That, and rates across the board are shit right now. When I got my R in 2018, rates on new car purchases can be had for 2.19%. The lowest rate I've seen lately has been around 2.6%, through credit unions (for 60 months).
That, and rates across the board are shit right now. When I got my R in 2018, rates on new car purchases can be had for 2.19%. The lowest rate I've seen lately has been around 2.6%, through credit unions (for 60 months).
My C.U. is offering 2.49% APR, but only over 36 months .... The 60 month rate is 3.24% .... Auto loans taken over 3 years just seems crazy to me.
That, and rates across the board are shit right now. When I got my R in 2018, rates on new car purchases can be had for 2.19%. The lowest rate I've seen lately has been around 2.6%, through credit unions (for 60 months).
Yup, I think the loan on my R was 2.39% or something like that back in 2018. That said, it's nice not having a car payment.
Originally Posted by mrmako
Subaru offering 0% on a lot of their lineup. 63 months to boot.
Actually peeking at a leftover 2019 JGC 4wd Altitude, my neighbor being a sales mgr at a local dealer could help.
I imagine FCA gives them incentive to move old stock, so maybe I can squeeze more than the listed discount (which is about the same as on a 2020).
The C will need front tires if/when we start going back into the office, and had a battery alert yesterday (which didn't return after a restart), and it'll be out of CPO warranty next month.
The financing deals seems insane right now. I saw Jeep and Dodge offering 0% for like 84 months and no payments for the first 90 days? Didn't look into the fine print, but that was insane to me. Dealers definitely should be more easy going with 2019s, I would think.
Actually peeking at a leftover 2019 JGC 4wd Altitude, my neighbor being a sales mgr at a local dealer could help.
I imagine FCA gives them incentive to move old stock, so maybe I can squeeze more than the listed discount (which is about the same as on a 2020).
The C will need front tires if/when we start going back into the office, and had a battery alert yesterday (which didn't return after a restart), and it'll be out of CPO warranty next month.
If you do it, get the Mopar warranty. One of the situations where I'd actually recommend getting the warranty.
Originally Posted by Costco
The financing deals seems insane right now. I saw Jeep and Dodge offering 0% for like 84 months and no payments for the first 90 days? Didn't look into the fine print, but that was insane to me. Dealers definitely should be more easy going with 2019s, I would think.
The no payments is a bit misleading, all that does is pushes your loan out 3 months lol.
I honestly didn't look into the GC as much but my normal C was plagued with many issues from the rear diff, front suspension, electronics, etc. The GC doesn't have the trans issues the cherokee does at least.
This is one of the credit unions I bank with; the rates are all over the place.
Financing over 3 years is usually ridiculous, but I usually go for the longest term I can (with reasonable rates). Here's my reasoning:
I financed the R for 72 months (not at the rate above, obviously). If I paid minimum payments, it was a difference of ~$150 over the life of the loan compared to 60 months, and around $250 compared to 48. I never pay minimum payments, so the car will be paid off early. But this offers me the flexibility to pay a lower amount if I hit a rough patch. Obviously, that would not be the case with the current rates, but 2+ years ago, it was a much smaller difference.
My thinking too. I financed through Subaru because they had 0.9%, I chose 60 months for the same reasoning. I think they had 72 months but it was like 1.9% or something.
I actually did hit a rough patch so I was glad I opted for the longer term. Still managed to pay it off early, interest is just wasted money.
Think it's a given that everyone in here knows, but gotta negotiate based on total price, not payment amount.
When I bought my Passat, it was so hard to get the salesperson out of talking in monthly payments. Didn't make the negotiations very fun.
This is why I've bought two cars from Shoofin' ... The Passat lease was the easiest thing I've ever done other than take a train to Long Island to get the car. If I buy again, I'm going to call him.
Totally forgot about @Shoofin , hope he's doing well health-wise and in business. Haven't seen him post in a long time.
Originally Posted by Aman
When I bought my Passat, it was so hard to get the salesperson out of talking in monthly payments. Didn't make the negotiations very fun.
Used cars are a whole different ballgame thanks to the immense variance, I would think? Unfortunately have no experience with this, only bought used cars through private parties. My impression was always you could save quite a bit through dealers, if you were able to negotiate well.
Luckily, all my financed cars (3), the salesperson never pushed the "What do you want your payment to be" angle. Was able to keep it on track with the OTD number.
Totally forgot about @Shoofin , hope he's doing well health-wise and in business. Haven't seen him post in a long time.
Used cars are a whole different ballgame thanks to the immense variance, I would think? Unfortunately have no experience with this, only bought used cars through private parties. My impression was always you could save quite a bit through dealers, if you were able to negotiate well.
The payments definitely were their angle, ugh.
Not so much anymore with internet advertising being what it is.
05-22-2020, 10:09 AM
I think this is the same track that had a shit-show of an event last year or the year before.
