Playing around with HDR...
Playing around with HDR...
Hey guys, I've been shooting in NEF+JPEG mode on my D40x just so I can play with them in Photomatix.
Anyway, I would like some advice/tips on my results.
Just an FYI, the original was shot with ISO200, f/5.6. Sunny as hell outside. Should I have used ISO100?
Before JPEG:
After NEF->HDR->JPEG:
Anyway, I would like some advice/tips on my results.
Just an FYI, the original was shot with ISO200, f/5.6. Sunny as hell outside. Should I have used ISO100?
Before JPEG:
After NEF->HDR->JPEG:
Trending Topics
now with four rings
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 0
From: Bixby, OK
What do you mean? Sorry... not familiar with the lingo yet
I love the look of HDRs. I just need to get better at making them.
Photography Nerd
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 21,489
Likes: 11
From: Toronto
If you shoot on high speed drive, you can probably rattle off 3 frames without much movement. It helps if you can brace yourself off something, but I've done a few freehand.
thats so fucked up dan...
Senior Moderator
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 21,415
Likes: 2,187
From: Space Coast, FL
if you have just 1 JPEG image, go into photoshop, then go to image, adjustments, exposure, then do -2, then save, then undo it, then -1, then save, then undo then +1, then save, then undo, then +2, this way you will get a lot higher range to put into photomatix.
Then put it into photomatix and make sure it is -2, -1, 0 (orignal), +1, +2
Then put it into photomatix and make sure it is -2, -1, 0 (orignal), +1, +2
if you have just 1 JPEG image, go into photoshop, then go to image, adjustments, exposure, then do -2, then save, then undo it, then -1, then save, then undo then +1, then save, then undo, then +2, this way you will get a lot higher range to put into photomatix.
Then put it into photomatix and make sure it is -2, -1, 0 (orignal), +1, +2
Then put it into photomatix and make sure it is -2, -1, 0 (orignal), +1, +2
Let's Go Pens
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 2
From: Hamilton, NJ
So I was playing around with photomatix... I didn't have two identical images of the same exposure so I was playing around with combining two images to see what would happen. Here is a result of one which isn't that great but I like the effect.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evader/2809745455/" title="hdr-test by Evader87, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/2809745455_434d24fc86_b.jpg" width="1024" height="663" alt="hdr-test" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/evader/2809745455/" title="hdr-test by Evader87, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/2809745455_434d24fc86_b.jpg" width="1024" height="663" alt="hdr-test" /></a>
Photography Nerd
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 21,489
Likes: 11
From: Toronto
That's what AEB (auto exposure bracketing) is for.
On most models, it will take three shots at different shutter speeds when you press the shutter. You'll get one underexposed, one regularly exposed, and one overexposed shot. Typically you can control the spread between shots, anywhere from a 1/3rd EV to 2 or 3EV. I find that 1EV is good for most shots, but if you want something more dramatic, try 2EV.
The more frames you capture, the less noise you'll have in your final image.
The problem with torturing a single JPG into a "HDR" image is you just don't have enough data in that file to extend the dynamic range. JPGs are only 8-bits. Your monitor can most likely show all 8-bits at once, so you're looking at everything that is contained in that file right now.
RAW files are 12, 14, or even 16-bits, so there's a lot more data to work with there. The term "HDR" is really being misused because what you're doing with applications like Photomatix is taking the data that's contained in those 12 to 16-bits and compressing it down to 8-bits so you can see it all at once.
You can use Photomatix on a single 8-bit JPG and you'll end up with an effect just like my developmentally-challenged superhero.
It just won't be an HDR image.
On most models, it will take three shots at different shutter speeds when you press the shutter. You'll get one underexposed, one regularly exposed, and one overexposed shot. Typically you can control the spread between shots, anywhere from a 1/3rd EV to 2 or 3EV. I find that 1EV is good for most shots, but if you want something more dramatic, try 2EV.
The more frames you capture, the less noise you'll have in your final image.
Hmm, didn't know Photomatix took JPGs... I see that it does now. I'm gonna try this out! Thanks
RAW files are 12, 14, or even 16-bits, so there's a lot more data to work with there. The term "HDR" is really being misused because what you're doing with applications like Photomatix is taking the data that's contained in those 12 to 16-bits and compressing it down to 8-bits so you can see it all at once.
You can use Photomatix on a single 8-bit JPG and you'll end up with an effect just like my developmentally-challenged superhero.
It just won't be an HDR image.
That's what AEB (auto exposure bracketing) is for.
On most models, it will take three shots at different shutter speeds when you press the shutter. You'll get one underexposed, one regularly exposed, and one overexposed shot. Typically you can control the spread between shots, anywhere from a 1/3rd EV to 2 or 3EV. I find that 1EV is good for most shots, but if you want something more dramatic, try 2EV.
The more frames you capture, the less noise you'll have in your final image.
On most models, it will take three shots at different shutter speeds when you press the shutter. You'll get one underexposed, one regularly exposed, and one overexposed shot. Typically you can control the spread between shots, anywhere from a 1/3rd EV to 2 or 3EV. I find that 1EV is good for most shots, but if you want something more dramatic, try 2EV.
The more frames you capture, the less noise you'll have in your final image.
Heres one I tried with the PS method... exposure levels at -2, -1, 0, 1 and 2.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post