What kind of 6x9s do you have in the rear deck that fit without modification?

I know there's a bar that keeps speakers that are too deep from fitting properly.

 

i have alpine and didn't need any spacers or adjustments. cost...$99.

 

none. I have JL Audio XR 525 CSI seperates mounted in the 6x9 opening, which complement the XR 650's I'm using up front. No problem with depth, slightly better product than the one-line down 6x9 coax that I would have had to buy if I just wanted to swap out the rears, and all sits nicely under the factor grills.

 

personally i think that puttin components in the rear would not be worth the money since they are really just being used as fills... so i would suggest... either jl VR690CXi or diamond audio m391I... but i would suggest that you go listen to the speakers before you purchase to make sure they suit your preferences....

 

if you believe that the rear speakers are just being used as fills, then by this logic there is no reason to even use coax's and you should go with something along the lines of a MB comps (in this case competitions not components) which provide nothing more than an emphasis on the mids to compliment your subs in the rear. however, if sound quality is something that is important to you, utilizing some components which allow for some directional positioning of the tweeters - along with maximizing the x-overs - can do things to create a spacial effect within your listening environment that straight coax's could never achieve. the previous is nothing more than my opinion, and should not be interpreted as a 'my way or the highway' philosophical belief.

 

see my philosophy is that sound should come from the frount not the back... when was the last time you went to a concert and sound came from behind you... my guess is probably never... proper imaging would have the majority of the music being provided by the front speakers and the rear speakers basically filling in with mid/mid bass.. and yes you are correct you really dont need coxials or componentl... simply mids would do the trick...

 

when is the last time you went to any musical presentation which was in an enclosed environment and not outside in an open facility ... my guess is probably never ... because if you had, you'd realize that sound has a tendency to bounce off of the structural surroundings and therefore arrive at the listeners ears at different times. a lot of it has to do with what kind of music you choose to listen to ... if all you want is mind numbing bass, then there is no need to even have the front speakers connected because all you're trying to do is hasten your need for a hearing aid, while simultaneously entertaining the people in the next town/city/county over. Bose got the most attention for starting this direct/reflecting theory by creating a configuration which incorporated multiple tweeters (601's and lower models) or, in the case of the 901's, 9 full range speakers which were placed to fire in different directions, thereby enhancing the spacial effect which tried to re-create the open sound heard at live events. Mathew Polk came up with another theory in the 80's which proved that by listening to two "channels" (effectively one box placed left/rigt of center), the sound from either channel arrived at the opposite ear nano-seconds after arriving at the primary ear. he referred to this as 'Interaural crosstalk', and dealt with the elimination of this phenomenon by designing speaker cabinets also composed of multiple tweeter/midrange speakers but physically connected by means of a cable. The effect of this cable effectively eliminated this sound-delay problem described above, while simultaneously providing a sound stage which not only opened up across the front of the listening stage, but added a sense of depth which one could not achieve with ordinary speakers. Listening to music through these things gives one the sense of actually being able to identify the exact location of each/every instrument as it was positioned in the recording studio, and if you've even just seen anything on tv which shows musicians in a recording studio you can see that everybody isn't standing/sitting in one of 3 locations - directly in front of you, pooled in a area to the left and pooled in an area to the right. the days of 2 track recordings disappeared probably before you were born. and the effect of opening up the sound stage is far truer than the bs quadraphonic sound systems that were being pushed back in the early 70s - also probably before your time. Not that this is likely to happen, but if you ever get the chance to listen to 'anything' performed in places like the Royal Albert Hall or Covent Gardens in London, you'd be constantly turning your neck to try to see where the music is coming from - because you can clearly 'see' where the instruments are placed, but how the notes get to your ears is a totally different matter. Bottom line, one needs to satisfy nobody but themselves. if you're happy with your set-up, who gaf what anybody else thinks. IMO, and thats all this is, mo --- fill is appropriate for smaller cars - my M3 uses the aforementioned comps in the rear shelf for fill - but I also benefit from the use of a DSP which does a hell of a lot more for front stageing than the use xovers or a simple eq will do. all depends on the driving environment, and personnal prefs. sorry, not trying to hijack this thread ... just offering an opinion/option, which is neither any more nor any less correct than yours.

 

Just cut those silly bars out anfd put some hydrolics in the trunk, you guys gotta be a little more handy than that. I'll post some pics of my new install later. Been working non-stop, approx 30 hours in the last 2 days. Back to the driveway, peace.

 

I have Boston Acoustics but they require a spacer (comes with speaker) to clear the sway bars in the trunk. And I had to get some longer screws from home depot that fit the factory thread. Other than that, they fit perfect. But I only use them for filler and they are powered off an Alpine deck. The new front components are powered by an aftermarket amp.

 

i got infinity kappa 3 ways and i actually set them on 4 big nuts and screwed the bolts through them into a locking nut on the other side (trunk) - works fine with no problem.

 

dont cut the bars! i did and now my trunk lid rattles when i hit bumps.

 

Hey J

Are you getting 6X9's

You know what fits are bostons nx 97, they are very thin they have the Neodymium magnets. dont have as much punch as the infinitys do but much better than bose.

 

I was thinking about it... I wanna replace those back POSes as soon!

I'll check out those Bostons.

 

Let me know it you want some help. I'll be out of town a lot for the next couple of months but i could work you in. just give me some heads up.
but first you need!! to get a small socket wrench. or remind me to bring one over. jk
not really that was a pain in the ass doing it with plyers, it make me laugh when i think of us doing that.

 

I call it 'determination'


It's still a work in progress... I'll let you know when it comes time to tear the rear deck up!

 

I like my Polk SDA-SRSs

 

I wish I could have gotten those, but couldn't justify the cost at the time (even though I could have gotten them at diplomatic discount). However, I am more than happy with my SDA 2's (2nd generation - Polk decided he didn't need the additional mids so he re-engineered the box, removed components, lowered the price, and came up with a better sound). For pure audio listening, prefer them over my Paradigm Studio's which I have in my surround system.

 

I'm not old enough to have bought them new nor familiar with the series. I picked them up for 400 from a friend who thought they were too big and outdated. I think the owners manual reads SDA SRS 2.3TL (only 3 tweeters).

 

I just got rid of my Clarions for the new Memphis Q series speakers. The woofer is made from kevlar. It is soo big ( the woofer) that they are having to make a custom spacer.. It has to be almost a inch tall. so it can fit. The ysound awesome.. As good as the MB Quart Qs. cost a quarter less.

 

my Boston Acoustics Rallies fit perfectly, not too deep, just right. they're actually for sale, PM me if you're interested.

 

I have the MB Quart Speakers in the Rear. THey sound great. No Modifications needed.

I love my MB Quart Q Series components for the front. Sounds Quality over Loudness I prefer.

 

I've been wanting to change out the Blose rear 6x9s in my 2001 CL-S for a while, and I don't know what to do, either. Ever since I changed out the fronts for Polk DX6's (on Southbound over at Acura-TL.com's recommendation - MUCH discussion), I've noticed how nasty the rears are. (Although in fairness, not as godawful as the fronts) In reasonable efforts to silence those POS Blose rears, I have cut the tweeter leads, turned the fader all the way forward, and stuck putty around them. THEY SUCK. They are the first place to check for rattles in the parcel shelf. I thought they were defective, but I noticed the metal speaker basket vibratring against the plastic spacer attached to the front of the speaker. And my system is otherwise stock, and I didn't have it loud. So they need to go.
It seems there are some members on here that like the spacial effect of having tweeters and mids in the back. I appreciate the effect for variety's sake, but prefer the imaging to be determined by only the front speakers. I like Polk loudspeakers for mid-fi in general, but people forget what is THE most important aspect about stereo reproduction: LOCATION, both listener and speaker placement within the listening space. Since I sit in the driver's seat, and the speaker locations are pre-determined, I can't do much about placement. But I can try to ensure that as little highs and mids and as much bass as possible come from the rear speakers.
So I need high efficiency free air 6x9s that fit without too much modding. And they need to make good bass despite what the Blose EQ tries to do. This may be a difficult requirement to meet, especially with all the differing opinions around here... Are there 6x9 free air woofers or those better suited for rear parcel shelves? I probably will never swap amps or headunit, so these speakers need to work with the rest of the factory system. (By the way, the parcel shelf is too flimsy to expect much from any speaker going in there anyway. It needs serious stiffening and damping.)

Tosh

PS Now the factory CD changer, a Pioneer unit, right? is starting to make whining noises changing discs. Should I ask the dealer to change it under warranty?