TSX Finally Done!
06-18-2005, 10:41 PM
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TSX Finally Done!
First off, thanks to everyone on this fourm. I learned quite a bit and still do.
I picked up my 2005 TSX non-Navi about a month ago, and now it's done for now.
I was going for a clean, SQ setup that let me use my trunck.
Here's how it wound up!
6.5 Diamond Hexes (thanks Ron from StreetEffectz!) that are bi-amped by
MB Quart 4200 (4 x 100w @ 4 ohms)
1 x JL 12w32 that I got from dnd2984 (who still has one more left in Black Market)
being driven by a MB Quart 1000 (1000w @ 1ohm). I put the Remote Gain and Freq by the VSA. No pic on that tho but maybe later...
The two MB amps were $510 from Crutchfield so how could I go wrong!
What's also nice about them is that the controls are on top behind a small panel. Have to use a hex tool to open, but that's not too bad.
And look Eld - NO REAR FILL! That let me bi-amp the comps not to mention save the money for the rear speakers/install and put it into the amp rack and the front components.
Install was done by Audio Sensations in Cincy so give them a call!
Here's some happy snaps:
I picked up my 2005 TSX non-Navi about a month ago, and now it's done for now.
I was going for a clean, SQ setup that let me use my trunck.
Here's how it wound up!
6.5 Diamond Hexes (thanks Ron from StreetEffectz!) that are bi-amped by
MB Quart 4200 (4 x 100w @ 4 ohms)
1 x JL 12w32 that I got from dnd2984 (who still has one more left in Black Market)
being driven by a MB Quart 1000 (1000w @ 1ohm). I put the Remote Gain and Freq by the VSA. No pic on that tho but maybe later...
The two MB amps were $510 from Crutchfield so how could I go wrong!
What's also nice about them is that the controls are on top behind a small panel. Have to use a hex tool to open, but that's not too bad.
And look Eld - NO REAR FILL! That let me bi-amp the comps not to mention save the money for the rear speakers/install and put it into the amp rack and the front components.
Install was done by Audio Sensations in Cincy so give them a call!
Here's some happy snaps:
Last edited by nbagadio; 06-18-2005 at 10:46 PM.
06-19-2005, 12:36 AM
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that really nice and really clean. i am thinking or readoing my sub install for a third time so that I can have it behind the seat like that and I can put the seats down if i want sometimes.
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06-19-2005, 12:48 PM
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Congrats! Glad to see a car set up like yours : ) I would ask for a little mote on your sound - what do you like, what songs sound best, what have you heard in songs that you never noticed before, anything like that?
Glad you found a shop that you were happy with - I know you were worried about a good installer.
So the HU interface obviously went well, yes ?
My only comment is that I'd put the remote in the NOT AN ASHTRAY or in the center console.
But a great looking install and well done to you!
Glad you found a shop that you were happy with - I know you were worried about a good installer.
So the HU interface obviously went well, yes ?
My only comment is that I'd put the remote in the NOT AN ASHTRAY or in the center console.
But a great looking install and well done to you!
06-20-2005, 08:56 AM
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More info...
The sub sounds fine! Not sure if it's "ok" to do facing in the car, but I trust my installer who also pushed me into the bi-amp setup. I think we account for the 1000W into the sub through the gain. I'm sure the JL will hold up for awhile!
Power = Control is what they told me and it makes sense to me!
As far as the cost, the amp rack and the custom sub box was just $200.
Eld, I find new things all the time in different songs. Just this morning, I heard a chorus in Tupac's California Love. I listened to Joss Stone and her vocal are so amazing on top of the instruments. Heck, I thought one song was really muddled when I listened to it on other systems, but after listening to it on my new setup, it must just be produced badly (Three Doors Down - Let Me Go)!
Glad everyone liked it. Just thought I'd share to generate new ideas since I asorbed so many from you guys!
Power = Control is what they told me and it makes sense to me!
As far as the cost, the amp rack and the custom sub box was just $200.
Eld, I find new things all the time in different songs. Just this morning, I heard a chorus in Tupac's California Love. I listened to Joss Stone and her vocal are so amazing on top of the instruments. Heck, I thought one song was really muddled when I listened to it on other systems, but after listening to it on my new setup, it must just be produced badly (Three Doors Down - Let Me Go)!
Glad everyone liked it. Just thought I'd share to generate new ideas since I asorbed so many from you guys!
06-21-2005, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nbagadio
Sounds unbelievable! Can't tell you how much detail you can hear in the music.
Here's pic of the remote...
Here's pic of the remote...
How does it effect the sound?
Yep..I see it Eld! At least that part is covered up usually.
? lol....
06-22-2005, 11:25 PM
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OK, bi-amping can mean a couple of things.
In high-end home audio, it means having one amp connected to one set of drivers and another amp connected to another set of drivers. Like, you could have a 6 and tweeter two-way peaker, and you could have 1 30-watt amp on the tweeters and one on the woofers.
In this setup you are still using the passive xovers inside the amp. Rarely done except by audiophiles and not neccesarily then. The speaker has to be set up for it too (2 sets of terminals and a removable jumper bridge).
But as the term is usually used in car audio, it means having 1 amp play bass and 1 amp play mids and highs.
Technically, if you use a 3 or 4 channel amp, having 2 channels play mids and highs, and the other channel or channels play bass, you are bi-amping, even though it looks like it's only one amp. In many ways, it's two amps. (There are varying opinions on the tradeoffs, plus and minus, on using two separate amps, and I'll get back to that later).
So let's talk about speakers for a minute. Let's think about a three-way home spekaer - let's say it's got a 10" woofer, a 5"midrange, and a 1" tweeter.
Back in the day, we used to do a lot of similar car systems with two 10" woofers, two mids, and two tweeters on one amplifier - like a Rockford Punch 150.
How do you keep the woofers from playing voices and sounding for shite, or the mids from playing bass and failing and blowing up? You need passive crossovers. These go in between the amp and the speaker, and filter unwanted notes from the speaker.
Mid/tweet component sets come with passive xovers, and you've seen a lot of them. But xovers taht work at lower notes take big honkin' coils of wire and big expensive capacitors.
Then, after you buy those big heavy parts, they sap a lot of power from the amp, making the system sound worse. The more complex filters you use for better sound, the more power they suck out of your amp, and the more they cost. Big inductors
So what started to become popular in the late 80's was active or electronic xover filters instead of passive filters, and running one amp for bass and another amp for mids and highs.
Benefits? Well, when a big bass note hits a one-amp system, if the bass amp distorts a little, it's the mid and high amp too, so the distortion is audible from ALL the speakers.
If the bass amp distorts a little bit in a bi-amp system, nothing is heard through the mids and tweets.
Also, you can now tune the system by making the two amps different volumes. You can much more easily change the xover points for tuning.
With multi-channel amps with 1 power supply there is some savings, but best results are acheived by separate amps...NOT that the diff is very great.
In high-end home audio, it means having one amp connected to one set of drivers and another amp connected to another set of drivers. Like, you could have a 6 and tweeter two-way peaker, and you could have 1 30-watt amp on the tweeters and one on the woofers.
In this setup you are still using the passive xovers inside the amp. Rarely done except by audiophiles and not neccesarily then. The speaker has to be set up for it too (2 sets of terminals and a removable jumper bridge).
But as the term is usually used in car audio, it means having 1 amp play bass and 1 amp play mids and highs.
Technically, if you use a 3 or 4 channel amp, having 2 channels play mids and highs, and the other channel or channels play bass, you are bi-amping, even though it looks like it's only one amp. In many ways, it's two amps. (There are varying opinions on the tradeoffs, plus and minus, on using two separate amps, and I'll get back to that later).
So let's talk about speakers for a minute. Let's think about a three-way home spekaer - let's say it's got a 10" woofer, a 5"midrange, and a 1" tweeter.
Back in the day, we used to do a lot of similar car systems with two 10" woofers, two mids, and two tweeters on one amplifier - like a Rockford Punch 150.
How do you keep the woofers from playing voices and sounding for shite, or the mids from playing bass and failing and blowing up? You need passive crossovers. These go in between the amp and the speaker, and filter unwanted notes from the speaker.
Mid/tweet component sets come with passive xovers, and you've seen a lot of them. But xovers taht work at lower notes take big honkin' coils of wire and big expensive capacitors.
Then, after you buy those big heavy parts, they sap a lot of power from the amp, making the system sound worse. The more complex filters you use for better sound, the more power they suck out of your amp, and the more they cost. Big inductors
So what started to become popular in the late 80's was active or electronic xover filters instead of passive filters, and running one amp for bass and another amp for mids and highs.
Benefits? Well, when a big bass note hits a one-amp system, if the bass amp distorts a little, it's the mid and high amp too, so the distortion is audible from ALL the speakers.
If the bass amp distorts a little bit in a bi-amp system, nothing is heard through the mids and tweets.
Also, you can now tune the system by making the two amps different volumes. You can much more easily change the xover points for tuning.
With multi-channel amps with 1 power supply there is some savings, but best results are acheived by separate amps...NOT that the diff is very great.
07-04-2005, 09:04 PM
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Ok,
so I had to play around with the settings from the install shop and it took me awhile to get the system dialed back in (at least I think they're dialed in
I looked around and didn't a thread on how to tune in a setup...how to set up gains or how to tune the sub. Any guidelines like start with the tweets, set up their gain and freq, then move the the mids.
I'm still really struggling with the sub, especially with this amp.
Also,
If it turn it up to a volume of "40", I notice the CLIP/CILP
lights start to flicker on both amps. Should I get a cap? If so, any recommedations? If not, any other advice?
Thanks again!
NB
so I had to play around with the settings from the install shop and it took me awhile to get the system dialed back in (at least I think they're dialed in
I looked around and didn't a thread on how to tune in a setup...how to set up gains or how to tune the sub. Any guidelines like start with the tweets, set up their gain and freq, then move the the mids.
I'm still really struggling with the sub, especially with this amp.
Also,
If it turn it up to a volume of "40", I notice the CLIP/CILP
lights start to flicker on both amps. Should I get a cap? If so, any recommedations? If not, any other advice?Thanks again!
NB
07-04-2005, 09:11 PM
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what ive noticed while messing with my system is that, a lower gain on the amp but higher subvolume on the headunit sounds better than higher gain and lower subvolume 
07-08-2005, 08:53 PM
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Without even trying Eld, saved me again. I saw in another post what he has his TSX set up as and I started there as a guide. Nearly nailed it! I can't remember the exact details, but I think Ken said 2.2Khz for the tweets. Mids cutoff @ 60hz. Sub starts @ 80 hz down.
Amazing...
Thanks eld!
Amazing...
Thanks eld!
07-08-2005, 09:59 PM
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Glad it helped... especially since I meant to reply to this earlier and forgot.
The "Clip" indicator shows when the internal peamp in the HU is distorting and clipping the top of the waveform off.
Most HU's do it at 75 or 80% of volume. That the TSX HU doesn't until 40 is a very good thing.
The "Clip" indicator shows when the internal peamp in the HU is distorting and clipping the top of the waveform off.
Most HU's do it at 75 or 80% of volume. That the TSX HU doesn't until 40 is a very good thing.
07-09-2005, 02:45 PM
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as far as bi-amping goes, if i have my Headunit pushing my midrange/tweeters, and set the hipass on the crossver for those so it doesnt play the bass, then i have my amp for my subs play the low stuff, i have a bi amped system yes?
07-09-2005, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cali TL
as far as bi-amping goes, if i have my Headunit pushing my midrange/tweeters, and set the hipass on the crossver for those so it doesnt play the bass, then i have my amp for my subs play the low stuff, i have a bi amped system yes?
Alpine first did this like 15 years ago with HUs like the 7273... it had a preamp in and a preamp out, so you could install an electronic xover OR an EQ/xover and EQ and hipass the deck amp. Worked great for a low-cost system.
07-10-2005, 05:00 AM
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I need a box like yours!
nbagadio:
That looks SWEET!! Good Luck tuning!!!.....I'd definately install a cap. Rockford Fosgate makes a really good one.
Could you please hook a brother up?
Would you find out if your installers would make a sub box like yours for 2-10's? I can't find a custom-fit box made like yours (flush and forward firing) anywhere, and I love the clean look also. You said you got your box and amp rack for $200. That's way reasonable. Also, would they be willing to ship it if they could make one?
I'd really appreciate it if you could help me out. Thanks in advance!!
That looks SWEET!! Good Luck tuning!!!.....I'd definately install a cap. Rockford Fosgate makes a really good one.
Could you please hook a brother up?
Would you find out if your installers would make a sub box like yours for 2-10's? I can't find a custom-fit box made like yours (flush and forward firing) anywhere, and I love the clean look also. You said you got your box and amp rack for $200. That's way reasonable. Also, would they be willing to ship it if they could make one?
I'd really appreciate it if you could help me out. Thanks in advance!!
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