if having a 4 180watt@ 35rms speakers and 2 1000watt@ 500 rms subs?
what amps and power ,to power these units?

 

 

English uses words called adjectives, adverbs, nouns, verbs, and pronouns - assembling them in fairly rigid, defined ways, combining them into strings called sentences.

You, on the other hand, don't.

 

Cheeze got !

 

To translate....What are you asking??

 

what im asking is..
tell me a amp that makes these work good with out problems

 

OK, here goes.

Home audio has US laws that somewhat regulate the claims that equipment makes can make.

Car audio doesn't... makers can tell some pretty outrageous lies.

On top of that, many specs (like watts for a speaker) tell you NOTHING about how it sounds, what makes it sound good (if anything does) or what NOT to do about it.

Those speakers - I don't understand what your'e saying about them - but it sounds like you're saying they are 180W "peak" and 35 RMS. Hey, that sounds like a reputable manufacturer telling only one lie - "180". The 35 is probably true. A really unscrupulous company would have lied on the 35 too...

But in truth, I don't know WHAT those speakers are so I can't make any recommendation that has a chance of being right. Most 35W RMS speakers are low end made to work off of HU power, and won't sound very good (relatively) on any amp. But there it is... tell us what you have specifically, Brand, Model, and I would be happy to help more...

 

MATCH THE TOTAL RMS ON YOUR SPEAKERS WITH THE RMS ON YOUR AMPS or your amps can slightly underpower them if you don't have the money... will still sound fine...

 

so is that waht all the "CEA Compliant" huff n puff is about?

 

It is an attempt, hopefully the more manufacturers use the standard. I am sick of seeing 200+ watt headunits....

 

Pretty much totally disagree, doesn't matter a goddamn.

 

Cheze, a basic way to figure out which amp you want is to match the power by the RMS rating. Don't worry about the max power the speakers can take, the rms is much more important. You said each speaker is 35 rms, and you got 4, so you want a 4 channel amp which will give around 35 watts rms per channel. Same with subs, they are 500 watts rms, so find an amp that is 2 channel, 500 watts per channel.

There are a lot more configurations you can go with, if you tell us exactly what speakers (brand and model) and subs you have, we can help you out better.

 

Where do you guys get that the RMS rating has anything to do with sound?

First off, you have NO idea who made these speakers. IF you know, you might decide to distrust the RMS rating entirely.

Second, you don't know what he's trying to do. If I am building a system that is supposed to sound good, I don't pay much attention to maximizing RMS wattache on my amps - it's a theoretical exercise. The budget, what fits, and the like, do a lot more to dictate what to use than that measure.

I had enver heard of this technique before, and I have to say, it doesn't do anything for you.

 

^^^umm, i'm no pro, and i know you are, but i would doubt that its smart to buy speakers that handle 35 watts continuous power and power it by an amp that gives out 100 watts to each speaker. Also, if you got subs that can handle 500 watts continuously, you won't maximize your potential if you feed it 200 watts. Obviously brands and voice coil configuration and all that shit makes a difference, but basically, you wanna make sure power-wise your system matches up.
I said if he told us exactly what he has, it allows us to help more. What I told him is just a basic and easy way to narrow down choices for an amp.

 

uncleb, this statement may seem to be a sensible way for it to work, but please be assured that it's not a rule. Measuring efficency is different than power handling, and they are not directly linked.

How much power you need to blow things up (power handling) vs. how much power you need to "maximize potential" are two different things. With subs, power compression is one effect that will get in the way... but with door-type speakers, quite often giving them more power reveals their inadequacies.

I guess I am much more a fan of giving better speakers less power, when it's what fits the budget, than maximizing your wattage.

 

I guess it's like driving on "ZR" rated tires. If you don't drive to the speed limits of the ZR rating, are you not getting the theoretical benefit of the tire? In once sense, you're not maximizing it - but if the rest of your suspension, or you as a driver, are not capable of safe and proper driving at ZR speeds, then this benefit is only theoretical. You're still driving on good tires.

 

yeah, i know that, i'm underfeeding my subs by 250 a piece right now....i mentioned it just as a basic thing to go by, a way to keep things simple.

I'm not saying its necessarily bad to give 200 watts to a sub that handles 500 watts, but it's probably better if you can get closer to that number, because you'll have your sub pushing harder, which it is perfectly capable of doing (unless you try and give it like 700 watts or something way over like that).

 

my speakers are
2x Pioneer TS-A1670R 6-1/2" Speakers
2x Rockford Fosgate FRC4306 6-1/2" speakers
2x Rockford Fosgate P312D4 12" subs

would Rockford Fosgate P8002 2-Channel Car Amplifier for the subs work good?
speakers im not shure what sub i want yet..but i kno i need atleast 50rms x4 for them speakers..right?

 

Hey dudarino, It's an easy way to give someone an answer... and it works. We all don't have the time resources to study the damn wave's and exursion and all that.

So, matching the rms on an amp to your speaker is okay. You wouldn't want to go with the max watts... and I told him to slightly underpower the speakers to be more affordable. although it's not as clean of a sound....
It's better to slightly underpower them so you don't blow them as easy in my opinion... If you overpower them then you spend more money and some dumbass can get in your car and blow your speakers.

I guess audio dudes will overpower.
Normal people will match.
Cheap people will underpower.

Screw it all and just match the rms on a good brand amp.