cltypes6spd

As the subject says, I'm trying to remove the headunit so I can install the audio link pd4 and its wiring harness that plugs into the stock headunit. I got as far as removing the 2 silver strips on each side which reveals the screws beneath. My problem is that I can't remove the 2 side panels. I can't find the screws that connect the panels in the front. I can see that after I remove these panels it will allow me to remove the headunit. I believe there are three screws on each side of the headunit. Is this correct?
Do any other panels need to be removed?

also, I'm looking for the rubber gromet in the engine bay so I can pass the amps power wire but its hard to tell where it is. I know its on the drivers side but it looks hard to get at. Any easy way to access this?

I'm planning on intalling an Apline V12 amp (40x4) and Boston acustics 65 pros in the front and infinity kappas (3way) 6x9 in the rear. i also have a kicker substation 12 inch self amplified box for bass. I can't wait to intall all this cause the Bose system sucks.

Any help is appreciated.

icy CL

not sure if the 03 is the same as the 01-02. but here are some pics on how to remove the hu of the 01-02. also, i had purchased the pd4 and the harness to connect to the hu. but after conencting the harness, i found out i don't need the pd4. not sure if you have the navi, but if you don't and the hu is the same as the 01-02, you don't need to connect the pd4...unless you want to increase the line level output of the hu. what i did was just used the harness and connected it directly to the hu and to my amp (jl 300/4) via some rca barrel connectors available from radio shack . since my amp has sufficient power, i was able to lift the gain on the amp to increase the sound output without hearing much noise. i hear some pink/white(?) noise when i have the volume at the lowest level but don't hear it at all when driving or playing music. it's really up to you.

here are the pics to remove the 01-02 hu.

http://home.att.net/~gmanchu/pic1.jpg
http://home.att.net/~gmanchu/pic2.jpg
http://home.att.net/~gmanchu/pic3.jpg
http://home.att.net/~gmanchu/pic4.jpg

as far as the power wire, the rubber grommet is behind the lining right above/behind the gas pedal, or somewhere in that area and comes out at the top corner inside the hood on the drivers side. this might help...

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=34695

george

cltypes6spd

Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I'm looking for.
Is there any way to get diagrams clearer. Its hard to read them.
Also, where did you get that manual? Was that ordered through acura?

Thanks,
Gus

icy CL

the diagrams are pretty big. if you hold the curser on top of the image, you'll see a little box at the bottom appear with arrows at the corners (ie6.0), click on that box and the image should enlarge. let me know if that helps...if not, i can fix it with photoshop. the manual i have is the acura service manual...costs about $50-$60...but i don't remember where i ordered it.

g

cltypes6spd

Yes, that was exactly it, I had to zoom into the picture, looks clear now.
Thanks for your help.

Just wondering, did you change your front speakers. If so, does the cutout look big enough to hold an aftermaket speaker like the boston 65pros 6 1/2 inch. Looking at the speaker dimensions it says cutout 5 inches, and depth 2 3/8 inches.

Thanks again,
Gus

icy CL

i have the boston pros 6.5 components for my fronts. yes i did need to cut the bottom portion of the speaker holes cuz on the boston pros, the speaker connectors are just too big to fit in the hole. i purchased some speaker baffles from crutchfield to put behind/around the speakers just to protect them from moisture. i also had to use a 3/4 to 1 inch spacer so the boston's magnets won't hit the glass window and metal bracket that supports the window. the bostons come with a plastic spacer...it's about a half an inch thick but i don't think that will be enough. the spacer should be closer to an inch. i had a pair of old spacers from my infinity's which i used in conjuction with those that came with the pros. the tweeters should fit just fine where the stock tweeters are. and...i do think the bostons sound good!!!

SilverKnight

All you have to do is looking at the very first thread of this forum

cltypes6spd

I just spent 4 hours trying to remove the headunit and all I did was get many cuts on my hands and no success in removing the headunit. I have removed all the side panels and removed the 3 screws on each side of the HU. I tried pulling the HU out and it won't budge. I can see some tabs behind the face of the headunit but I can't remove the piece just below the headunit face and the little tray just above the headunit. I pretty sure I'm missing something but I just can't see it. I tried removing the wiring harness on the back of the HU but but there just isn't enough space (that how I got all the cuts).

I managed to pull out the HU about a half inch but now it wont go back in place. This has to be the worst design I have ever seen.

I have looked at the diagrams that were attached to this thread but I'm still stuck.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

icy CL

did you remove the console panel, console panel tray? you will need to pop out the seat heaters before you can remove these. just stick a small screw driver wrapped in electric tape or something so as not to scratch the surface....then just pry the seat heater switches out. refer to pic2. you'll have to remove all those parts. you may have removed the screws that hold the hu but there are tabs on the console panel that are still holding it in place. below the coin holder, pop out that peice of plastic that holds the seat heaters by just pulling on it slowly. you'll see 2 screws that need to be removed before you can remove the console panel. also, the only way to remove the plastic compartment on top of the hu is to completely remove the hu to access the screws or tabs holding it.

SilverKnight

Remember, you would have to remove center console, panel under the sterling wheel, side panels and shift console. There are 4 screws holding the head unit to the dash.
Read this thread http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=51712

cltypes6spd

Finally got it. I knew it was something stupid that I forgot. Inside the armrest below the little carpet there were 2 screws. When I took those out everything else was easy to take off.
Thanks everyone for your help.

Only problem now is that the antenna wire must be loose because I cant get any radio stations. I guess I'll be able to take it apart failrly quickly now

Six Shifter

takes about 25 minutes to take out, and 25 minutes to re-install, once you know where all the screws are. I like the fact that it only requires a phillips-head screwdriver to completely disassemble, but hate the fact that it would only take someone interested in removing it from my presence the same tool!

SilverKnight

It would take that person a while if he want to able to use the HU after the removal. But what is the point of stealing something that you cant use