TL: Jus got a 99 tl
Not much bad here. Getting the bass to the cabin requires thinking ahead. You either pull the factory sub (as I have) and let the subs in the trunk play into that, or you can do something with the ski pass. But beware cancellation effects no matter what you do (study up on trunk positioning), and a side effect of pulling the sub is that you might see white light in the sub hole through the rearview mirror at night thanks to the center-mounted stoplight. Might want to install something to keep that from happening, as it is annoying.
I recommend running active with processing, install your tweeters in the Apillar, and door speakers as big and as well deadened/sealed as you can get. Rear speakers need not be touched because the sound stage of the front should be quite convincing, especially running active with sound processing to handle the time alignment concerns you'll run into.
Head unit is a piece of cake to wire but a royal pain to get to in the first place. Do make sure you get your wiring all in the first time, nothing quite like pulling the center dash area apart TWICE because you forget a wire or two. Power wire (1/0 for me) was easy, though I do recommend techflex to protect the wire. It goes on the driver's side btw.
I recommend running active with processing, install your tweeters in the Apillar, and door speakers as big and as well deadened/sealed as you can get. Rear speakers need not be touched because the sound stage of the front should be quite convincing, especially running active with sound processing to handle the time alignment concerns you'll run into.
Head unit is a piece of cake to wire but a royal pain to get to in the first place. Do make sure you get your wiring all in the first time, nothing quite like pulling the center dash area apart TWICE because you forget a wire or two. Power wire (1/0 for me) was easy, though I do recommend techflex to protect the wire. It goes on the driver's side btw.
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