TL: Installed a new head unit but now I got a few problems

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Installed a new head unit but now I got a few problems

I got my Sony XAV-622 installed. Looks good and dvd quality is awesome, except the stock Bose speakers can't handle it. Once the volume is turned up the speakers get fuzzy and can't handle the bass. CDs not as bad but I still can't turn it up as much. It's more when I listen to music from my Ipod classic and connect it with the usb cable it came with Ipod. Also my bose sub speaker doesn't play. Why?

On my bose unit I used a cassette adapter which connects into the aux of my Ipod and it sounded great. Could it be that I'm connecting it by the usb cable now? And should try connect it with an aux cable? I also read the manual and try changing some settings but nothing. The day I got my car back the installer said "it would sound better if you had a sub" I was thinking in my head, but don't I have a sub? Maybe they didn't know that speaker at the back in between my rear seats is the subwoofer? Or if he was talking about an aftermarket sub.

I am going to the shop today to get this problem fixed but first want to know why this is happening.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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Set the HP crossover to 90hz or so on the front speakers, done.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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How do I do this? Where will it say hp crossover?
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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head unit settings.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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Ok just did. Now it sounds clean. I went to the shop today and it turns out that I need an amp for the bose sub speaker to work. The guy told me they need to bypass the factory bose system (amp). So what I'm getting is a 300w amp and RCA cables. Then I'll be set. With installation and tax it will cost $199.48. What you think?
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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I think the stock sub is a total piece of crap, and you should install a small 8 or 10" sub in the trunk while removing the stock one. Total cost should be about the same.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 06:25 PM
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That's true. I do have an MTX sub sitting in my room that my friend gave me a while ago. I know if I install it I will get the rattling sound in my trunk. I don't want that. One of my friend that used to do installs at Circuit City, when they were open around here, told me I would need to buy padding or however they call it. Which pads all around in my trunk. Helps reduce or eliminate the rattling you get from the loud subs.
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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its called many things but one thing it is.. is necessary. And it won't take a lot, the trunk is a pretty stable, pretty rattle-free thing on this vehicle.

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com or www.raamaudio.com is where I recommend you take your business.

I had 1700W on a pair of high excursion 10's with just a minimal amount of deadening (stop the resonance...done) and things were fine.

IMO the stock sub rattled more than my aftermarket seutp.
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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TL260power
Ok just did. Now it sounds clean. I went to the shop today and it turns out that I need an amp for the bose sub speaker to work. The guy told me they need to bypass the factory bose system (amp). So what I'm getting is a 300w amp and RCA cables. Then I'll be set. With installation and tax it will cost $199.48. What you think?
Just an FYI, you do not need a whole new amp to power the stock sub with a new headunit, all the shop needs to do is run a direct RCA line from the headunit to the stock BOSE amp thats in the car already, thats what they did on mine and works fine now.
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Hi ZwExtreme78,
You mentioned you are using the stock BOSE amp to drive the stock sub. Can you please let me know where the stock BOSE amp is? I have a 2003 TL (4 dr), is it the same as your car?
Thanks,
Tham.
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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From: NOVA
Originally Posted by ZwExtreme78
Just an FYI, you do not need a whole new amp to power the stock sub with a new headunit, all the shop needs to do is run a direct RCA line from the headunit to the stock BOSE amp thats in the car already, thats what they did on mine and works fine now.
Really? They didn't talk about needing to bypass the amp?
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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he meant bose EQ
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:59 AM
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I hate how my system sounds now. Sucks..I guess I need to buy new speakers...
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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If you really want the best sound possible, I'll help but be prepared to pony up money. About a grand, maybe 800.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 02:32 AM
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OK. Let me know what I need?
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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You need a processor, tweeters, mid-woofers, and at least a 5ch amp.

The processor is what is going to cost you the most, but it has a very important job of controlling signal to each speaker, and will handle time alignment, crossover points, etc. On the bright side, because the processor will handle everything actively, you can run individual speakers from the DIY market. That means the speakers themselves will be quite cheap.

The processor will be the hardest to get. I would suggest either the JBL MS-8, or the Alpine PXE-H660. There are a few more processors out there and actually there are a few more coming that claim big performance improvements. The MS-8 has onboard 20W x 8 amplifiers. You'll want more power than that for your front stage speakers and sub, but rear speakers will be just fine. Both processors include microphones to auto-tune the whole system for you, so you don't really have to do much but install them correctly and follow directions. Shop around for the best price on one, as price can vary greatly on these. I usually shop local classifieds or the caco, or diyma website and try ton find the best deal. Secondarily you've got eBay of course.

For Midwoofers,
You can fit a 6.5" but it can be a bit tight of a fit. Consider instead this powerful 5 1/4" Peerless HDS woofer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Peerless-HDS-Gol...item5643f3a54d


For Tweeters, I think this is one of the best tweeters out there today.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Peerless-Vifa-XT...item5643f3a592

For Sub, we got crazy options here so for now I'll just say set back ~$150-200 + a box.

For an amp: I think you'd like this one for the money.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...X4.80-500.html

Alternately go with this one (hint: you can often "make an offer" on their website and get this for under $400...I would try $350)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Audio-NX5.html

Image Dynamics just got bought out, so their previous models are all dirt cheap. This is a monster amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ics-i5800.html

You can go with two amps instead of a powerful 5ch too. Price wise it would be a little bit more of course, but you can get more power. I just picked 5ch amps for simplicity sake.

For power wire, order welding cable from www.wireandsupply.com. I can't recommend what size to get because the different amps have different needs for size.

For wire protection, order techflex from Barry at Furryletters on ebay. You can just call him if you don't want to deal with ebay, btw. Set about $15 aside for all that, including heat shrink.

For rca cables, almost anything works but what you need is a single pair for the head unit to processor connection, and then 3 pair for your processor to amp connections. I make my own RCA's but this is a tough thing to ask of a beginner. So maybe just shop around for solid RCA cables. Size will depend on where you want all your equipment. A 12 footer from the head unit to the trunk and maybe only 3 ft to 6ft from the processor to amp(s).

For deadening, we covered that before but don't forget about it. Rick's products will probably be the best way to go. A box of the deadening mat, and 2 yards of Ensolite peel and stick should do it. 3 yards would be what I would order, because extra materials always come in handy.

Ready to get started?
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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Ok cool. My bad for getting back so late. But I have checked out some of the links. Good info..I'll continue checking out your suggestions and see what' s up..

deadening is for the trunk? To stop the rattle?

Last edited by TL260power; Jul 28, 2011 at 12:23 AM.
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