How to wire preAmp outs?
#1
How to wire preAmp outs?
Today, I put in all the wiring for my 4-Ch amp. I took out the factory radio, and found the 2 low-level signal wires, orange(left) + Blu/Grn(right) from the wiring harness. I cut the orange wire, tried to wire a female rca plug to it. Hooked it up to an amp, but it gives a hissing noise and no music.
Can anyone tell me how do I hook up RCAs to these 2 low-level signal wires? Please help...
For now, I am just using the EQ bypass, but really would like to get the amp going.
Can anyone tell me how do I hook up RCAs to these 2 low-level signal wires? Please help...
For now, I am just using the EQ bypass, but really would like to get the amp going.
#2
Sho1,
You have the RCA pins wired ok, but the common(orn/blu) needs to go to the barrel of the RCA's. Keep in mind, you will lose fader capability with this wiring config.
Myself, I went with the EQ bypass and a couple of 2ch LOC's off the speaker outputs to feed the amp. I have read that a few people have had problems with noise using the line level signals off the HU(prior to the EQ) like what you are doing.
If you want some more info, run a search using the usernames:
Iggy
Brewboy
Darkshear
alanc45
The database on this forum got screwed up when they did the change over, but there is TONS of info deep within.
Good luck
You have the RCA pins wired ok, but the common(orn/blu) needs to go to the barrel of the RCA's. Keep in mind, you will lose fader capability with this wiring config.
Myself, I went with the EQ bypass and a couple of 2ch LOC's off the speaker outputs to feed the amp. I have read that a few people have had problems with noise using the line level signals off the HU(prior to the EQ) like what you are doing.
If you want some more info, run a search using the usernames:
Iggy
Brewboy
Darkshear
alanc45
The database on this forum got screwed up when they did the change over, but there is TONS of info deep within.
Good luck
#3
so both left and right input would use the org/blu common iput for the barrel part, right? I will give that a try this weekend... and tell you guys how it works out....
hopefully, I don't encounter the noise problem...
Thanks for your great help, I will keep you guys posted
hopefully, I don't encounter the noise problem...
Thanks for your great help, I will keep you guys posted
#4
I went through all this, and ended up replacing the HU anyway. I got it to work, but was never happy with SQ.
When I did mine, I took the preamp out (small black harness) and ran it into an AudioControl 3.1, then to the new amp. (A line driver, or the line driver feature of the 3.1, is necessary for the factory sub to work--it requires a high signal).
I really didn't want to change the dash, but the new HU with the metra kit really doesn't look bad!
Also, my sticky thread "comprehensive data" has links to the threads that deal with grabbing the preamp signals.
When I did mine, I took the preamp out (small black harness) and ran it into an AudioControl 3.1, then to the new amp. (A line driver, or the line driver feature of the 3.1, is necessary for the factory sub to work--it requires a high signal).
I really didn't want to change the dash, but the new HU with the metra kit really doesn't look bad!
Also, my sticky thread "comprehensive data" has links to the threads that deal with grabbing the preamp signals.
#5
Ok, I finally decided to just take out the factory HU and used the Metra Kit. I had a 2000 Sony Xplod flip face HU from a while back. I was surprised with the results! I had the factory sub wired to the Sub out from the HU. The whole system sounds really good now Really happy with the results!
I have running Boston Acoustics RC 61 Component series 6.5" in the front doors
Infinity 6.5" Coaxial in the rear doors.
The only thing I don't like is that there isn't that much mid bass, I had the sub out level turned all the way up, the factory sub just sounds boomy...
maybe I will try adding an amp to the factory sub, maybe that will help...
Anyone has good results with factory sub and aftermarket amp?
I have running Boston Acoustics RC 61 Component series 6.5" in the front doors
Infinity 6.5" Coaxial in the rear doors.
The only thing I don't like is that there isn't that much mid bass, I had the sub out level turned all the way up, the factory sub just sounds boomy...
maybe I will try adding an amp to the factory sub, maybe that will help...
Anyone has good results with factory sub and aftermarket amp?
#6
Hi again,
Cool! I'm glad it turned out good! I'm still working on mine. Couldn't get a natural sound, was tearing the doors apart to measure for new speakers, when I discovered the speaker grills are really affecting SQ. (I'm not in the processes of reworking the factory grilles--what a pain).
As for using the stock sub, you have a couple of options. You can use a line driver to jack up the preamp signal and feed it to the Bose EQ (the black harness you've already worked with), or you can bypass the stock amp completely and get a new amp to drive the stock sub.
Once again, I really wanted to keep the stock sub, but ended up with a big ugly box in my trunk. The problem is that the stock sub is 1-ohm, and you need a 1-ohm stable amp to drive it. The cost of a 1-ohm amp exceeds what a decent amp/sub/box costs, and you'll never get the same performance with a free-air sub mounted in ten square feet of sheet metal.
If you can find a good deal on a 1-ohm stable amp somewhere, I'd really like to know how it sounds. I think the stock sub is really impressive for it's size, and I'd bet it would sound great if it weren't for the rattles.
The line driver idea is worth considering too--I think you can get one cheap, and the amp that's there is made specifically for that sub. Sounds like you already have the system set up this way, you just need to amp up the sub preamp signal to really know how it sounds.
Cool! I'm glad it turned out good! I'm still working on mine. Couldn't get a natural sound, was tearing the doors apart to measure for new speakers, when I discovered the speaker grills are really affecting SQ. (I'm not in the processes of reworking the factory grilles--what a pain).
As for using the stock sub, you have a couple of options. You can use a line driver to jack up the preamp signal and feed it to the Bose EQ (the black harness you've already worked with), or you can bypass the stock amp completely and get a new amp to drive the stock sub.
Once again, I really wanted to keep the stock sub, but ended up with a big ugly box in my trunk. The problem is that the stock sub is 1-ohm, and you need a 1-ohm stable amp to drive it. The cost of a 1-ohm amp exceeds what a decent amp/sub/box costs, and you'll never get the same performance with a free-air sub mounted in ten square feet of sheet metal.
If you can find a good deal on a 1-ohm stable amp somewhere, I'd really like to know how it sounds. I think the stock sub is really impressive for it's size, and I'd bet it would sound great if it weren't for the rattles.
The line driver idea is worth considering too--I think you can get one cheap, and the amp that's there is made specifically for that sub. Sounds like you already have the system set up this way, you just need to amp up the sub preamp signal to really know how it sounds.
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