I bought a ultrastarter car alarm, I had one on my old teg, it was installed professionally, however when I sold the car I removed it for the guy to install on my new car (which I have sold).
I remember almost all of the wires were spliced in, however I would like someone to clear a thing or two up for me.
The "starter output" wire I believe gets spliced into the ingition harness going TO the starter.
The "heater/acc." wire gets spliced into the ACC wire coming from the ingition.
The "ingition output" wire I believe I splice into the ingition harness, after the ingition.
I am also concerned with the "antigrind/starter kill" wire, dont know where that goes, maybe to a relay?
Ground while running output - (250ma)

Here is what wires the alarm goes to: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...65782&get=last

Sorry for all the questions, I just wanted to clear some things up.

Thanks

 

I have never touched one of those alarms in my life. You have any install instruction source?

The antigrind wire and the starter output wire usually go to the two sides of the cut starter wire.

But what car do you have? These wires vary a LOT by car. YOu might need a bypass module too...

 

It is for my winter beater which is a 2000 mitsu mirage.
So I cut the starter wire in 1/2, and connect the anti-grind and starter output to each?

 

I called the company up, they answered all of my questions. I should have thought of that earlier. They said all the wires get spliced into the ingition harness, I dont have to cut anything.
But if I were not to cut anything, how can the starter kill work?

 

Uh, it won't?

 

cut the black/yellow in half and follow this direction http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp#sk1
use the first one on that page

 

bngu1, thanks for posting a diagram, im sure it will really come in handy when I recieve the alarm. But which one would I use for starter kill, and also a remote start?

 

the first will work for you, cause if you remote start and your car is still armed the starter wire is disabled and you will not be able to crank. if that wire give you the option between starter kill or anti-grind be sure to program it for starter kill.

 

Isnt it neccessary to have anti-grind also, so the engine doesnt keep cranking (at least thats what I thought it did)

EDIT: Do I also need to use diodes?

 

oh yeah, forgot that you have to disarm your car before you get in so it will grind the starter. my bad..... ok, this will work but i have not tried it. connect it as starter kill just like the the12volt.com page want you too. but on pin 85 of the relay all two diodes white stip going away from the relay and connect the starter kill wire from the remote start module to the one of the diode and connect an anti-grind/2nd igntion or 3rd ignition wire to the other diode. how this works is when you arm your car, the starter kill wire will acitivate the relay which will disabled the starter wire. and when you remote start the anti-grind/2nd or 3rd ignition wire will activate the relay. so even if you disarm the alarm the relay will still disabled the starter wire because there is ground going into it from the anti-grind/2nd or 3rd ignition wire.

 

lol, im confused. Ill just call them up when the alarm comes in, and see what they say. Thanks for the info tho.

 

hey bngu1, does this look right for starter kill and remote start?

 

it's the same setup as the one from the12volt.com the only difference is they switch pin 85 and 86 around and it works either way.

 

Do I need a diode for pin 87a to the starter wire, so the remote start does not feed electricity back into the relay, or its not going to do anything?

 

it better if you do but not necessery, i don't think. i've never used one and all of them worked fine.

 

Lol, ok. One last question. On the alarm it has a wire for "ingition Output", where does that get connected, to the main harness for the ingition in the car? im just confused on that one wire now, since it is "output".

 

if it is a thick ignition wire then it is connected to the car's harness. if it is a thin wire and the manual say it is a negative (-)ignition output then it is use to activate a relay for 2nd or 3rd ignition or can be use for anti-grind or bypass module for newer cars with immobilizer; which your mirage don't have.

 

Thanks for your help. Everything works on the car, keyless entry, remote start... It took me about 2 1/2 hours to put in, wasnt bad at all. One question though, there are 3 different settings for the anti-grind/starter kill wire, as follows:
1) Active (-) when locked and during remote start (anti-grind)
2) Passive (-) when locked/30 seconds after ignition is OFF, or button #2 is pressed.
3) GWR (-) Output during remote start only (anti-grind/Bypass).

I believe it is currently set on setting 3, but when the car is armed, I go to put the key in the ignition and the car starts when I turn the key. Would setting 1 or 2 enable the starter disable?

It must be a cheap alarm because it doesnt have any door pin inputs, I even had to use a relay which I had laying in my garage to convert the (-) horn output to a (+) output for a spare siren I had laying around (because it didnt come with one). But I dont really care, just as long as the remote start and keyless entry continues to work.

 

program it for "1" i believe it is setup to be starter kill and anti-grind. so just program for "1" and forget all about all those diodes and connections i posted before.

 

Ok, thanks for all your help and knowledge, it really helped the install go by alot faster!

 

setting 1 did work. The only thing that sucks now is since there are no door input triggers, I cannot trip the alarm off. Even when it is armed, I goto put the key and start the car, the starter disable works, but the alarm doesnt go off...
Since I used a realy to convert the horn (-) output to a (+) output for my siren, it only chirps every 2 seconds when I push the panic button.