mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

i'm looking for just one sub that won't take up too much space to compliment my stock bose system. i was hoping to do the following:
amp- Hifonics ZX7500 Zeus Series
* Number of Channels 2
* RMS Power (4 ohms) 250 watts x 2 chan.
* RMS Power (2 ohms) 500 watts x 2 cahn.
* RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable
* Bridged RMS Power 1000 watts
* Peak Power Output 2000 watts approx.
* Min. Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
* Min. Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
* THD @ Rated RMS Power 0.03%
* Speaker Level Inputs No
* Amp Preamp Outputs Yes - 1 pair
* Built-in Crossover LP (30 - 150Hz), HP (10Hz - 1.2kHz)
* Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio 95 dB
* Fan Cooled No
* Fuse Rating 60A x 2
* Warranty 1-year SE
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_367.html

and sub- JL Audio 10W3v2
# RMS Power Range : 300 Watts
* Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
* Continuous Power Handling: 300 Watts
* Voice Coil: 2.25" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former
* Available Configurations: Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm
* Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.51"-0.58" (13.0-14.7 mm) depending on specific model
* Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.60-0.90 cu.ft. (17.0-25.5 liters)
* Ported Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.50 cu.ft. (28.3-42.0 liters)
* VRCT Technology: YES
* Elevated Frame Technology: YES

* Warranty - Onlinecarstereo.com 1 Year warranty.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=12512

question is if that would work correctly? and is it worth getting the 12W3v2 having the same price as the 10"? and is the 10W6v2 worth the extra $100? and if anyone has suggestions for a different setup, any help or replies is greatly appreciated.

elduderino

What kind of car do you have?

First off, the woofer seems fine, but remember that a great woofer in a cheap or marginal enclosure is far worse than a more entry-level woofer in an optimal enclosure.

Are you building a custom box? Are you having one built? Or do you want a prebuilt? (JL has boxes that are well-made with those drivers, I believe, but online car stereo doesn't list them as I recall...)

http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS112GW3v2.html

http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/CVS110GW3v2.html

I think the w6 is worth more money... but I think I would go with the 12" w3 rather than the 10" w6, all other things being equal. Using a w6 to complement a facotry system is a bit overkill.

There are two schools of thought on the amp issue. I personally think that buying gobs of bass watts is a waste with an OE system because you either far outpace the OE mids and highs or you don't get your money's worth very often on the amp's performance. Of course, $200 is a great price for that amp.

Whenever you are designing an upgrade, you should decide on three things:

1) A budget you are starting with. Pick a number. You may have to change it. Do it anyway.
2) What's your reference? What are you comparing to? Your last system? A friend's? Your home hi-fi?
3) What kind of music are you trying to be happy listening to? (Everyone says "I listen to all kinds of music. What are your last three favorite albums?)

If you are clear on these three things, you can get good help from experts on your sound purchases.

Tsx536

Eld...does that amp put out more RMS power than that JL 10w3v2 could handle?

elduderino

Depending on which woofer impedance he buys he could configure it that way...

I wouldn't bridge the thing into that DVC sub, that's true. With a sealed box he would only have a problem if he beat on it hard all the time, probably. The w6 would be better from a power handling POV... or getting a smaller amp.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

If u are going to be running a single W3 that amp is not really a good option. Since u are just adding some bass to the bose, I would suggest a differ amp.

The Sub is fine. 10w3v2 or a 12, will be fine for a amp for a kicker. great bang for the buck. If u get a Dual 2ohm woofer get a kicker 350.2. Go with a sealed box.

optionet

personally I like mono amp better, maybe just get a JL 250.1 ? It will be perfect for the 12w3v2.

ou sig

ya that is a great setup, I have heard that exact thing in a SUV and it was very loud and clean

elduderino

But not $200...

I like the idea of a 250/1, but isnt' that 2x as much?

ou sig

basically, you could get the Kicker 300.1 for around $300 in the stores or even cheeper online

Kicker amps are a great amp for good quality power at good prices

elduderino

So what you're saying is, yes, the 250/1 is twice as much.

I like Kicker amps and have recommended them here on this forum... but there's no reason to think it's a better amp than that Hifonics. I don't like Hifonics marketing and never have, but there's nothing wrong with that amp, and I think it's even fully regulated in the power supply section.

elduderino

Checking the Hifonics website (maxxsonics.com) shows that the Zeus 7500 has a fully-regulated power supply, just like the old US_made Zed Audio-Hifonics did. From what I hear Steven at Zed has the PCBs made overseas but still does all the designs here.

That means that the amp makes rated power from 11 to 16 V input power - no alternator or cap needed to get the rated output.

Also, unlike most Class D amps, the Class AB won't generate any FM interference that we know jacks up the TSX receiver (the JL Class Ds seem OK, but we've had negative reports of others).

It has a 45 Hz 18dB/octave subsonic filter, which is good - especially if you go ported it is : ), and the Hifonics protection circuitry make it hard to blow up.

I don't like the robed bimbos in the ads and I think that there may be better sounding amps on the high end, but I can't say that the loosely-regulated Kicker/Chung Lee amps are better than this one.

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

1) my budget right now is probably ~$500 for sub and amp. i wanna try to build my own box b/c i wanna save as much space as possible. and i've always wanted to try to build something for my car <~~~ 3.2CL by the way.
2)haha my last system would be my stock system. i figure that the bose system is good enough, and i wanna buy subs now and add a kenwood touchscreen later on. so is the bose sufficient enough for mids and highs? with the added bass? and the only thing i personally own to compare it to is my altec lansing 5.1 computer speakers. my friend had a system in his rsx with a pioneer HU, diamond audio components, and 2 visonik 10" subs with an rms i think of 300, and a 600 watt kicker amp with four channels, i don't know the specifics. i like his, but i'm not the type to drive around with all my windows down trying to attract attention by blasting my music.
3)i mainly listen to rock/punk, such as american hi-fi, sugarcult, my chemical romance, the juliana theory, etc. but i do like the occasional rap/r&b- the game, 50 cent, jay-z, so i like to listen to heavy bass once in a while.

i was thinking about kicker amps too, but the hifonic amp looked nice and heard it was good, and the price is pretty nice. i guess i should shop for a kicker amp. and one more question, reason i didn't choose a mono-amp is b/c i'd like to keep my options open and use my amp in the future if i decide to expand my system. and do you think i can use the hifonics amp? and i know if i bridged it, it would produce a lot more power than the sub can handle, but can't i control how much power goes to the sub if i bridged it and sent it to the sub somehow?

thanks a lot elduderino!!! before, i rarely saw you prior to all these forums merging, but now, i find myself visiting audio and video more frequently to see what you post and your opinions!!!
and thanks everyone else!!! i honestly value all of your opinions and all of them do contribute to my future purchases.

elduderino

Thanks for the good answers!

One of the things that happens when our musical refreence is PC speaks or iPod headphones is that music with defined highs and extended bass sounds impressive.

It may not sound good after a few days or weeks and it may actually sound fatiguing eventually. The bright highs andthe thudding bass might not be what sounds real after you get used to it. I am not knocking bass, but there is real-sounding drum-note bass, and then there is muddy bass that can be loud but is not accurate. This is one reason that I am more a fan of soft dome tweets (like Alpine, morel, dynaudio, and others have been) than metal tweeters. Metal is easy to sell but hard to live with after a while, IMO. Metal tends to vibrate longer than it should - rings like a bell... and so it exaggerates highs, especially in a car with a lot of hard reflective glass surfaces.

If you want as small a box as possible, you may want to go with the 10" w6v2 rather than the W3... check the specs on the web site. You also seem to be looking for a more well-rounded sound, and since I think you'll upgrade the F speaks (see below...)

If you know you want to replace your head unit, and you want bass, just accept right now that you will be replacing your stock audio system eventually.

Bose has a very poor rep among audio enthusiasts, and if you pull your OE speakers out and look at them you will understand why. They use very cheap materials and EQ the sound in... but the materials don't sound the same for very long, especially in a car, so they sound worse in not too long...

I would recommend upgrading the F mids and tweets at some point, probably when you add the head unit. Trying to integrate aftermarket HUs with Bose OEM amps is like masturbating with a cheese grater - maybe a little pleasing, but mostly painful.

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

hmmm ic, w3 is $100 more so that is a significant amount when it comes to my budget. with that in mind, i will go with the w6v2, although sacrificing trunk space is going to happen, i think it's worth the $100 savings. i probably won't replace the HU until perhaps 6 months from now, or near the beginning of summer. i have to buy my girl a snowboard, which is automically 340 gone.

think the hifonics amp is a good choice though? kicker amps are about ~$40-100 more, and if hifonics can produce the same sound and quality, i'd rather pick up the hifonics amp.

and with the music preferences i have, do you think i'll be happy with the 10w6v2 and hifonics amp? and with the sub, which produces 300w rms, will that be too much for the stock bose system as is? and i'm also assuming i'm going to have to do that bypass stock preamp or something, is there a link or DYI tutorial somewhere?

blumpkin

pussy

U must love that pussy to automatically spend 340 on a board and not an extra 100 for ur cars audio system.
Been there done that, but now my car is the bitch i spend my cheez on.
sorry for the off topic and not mindin my biz, but i can't think up a more perfect reason for that smiley.

slo007

Yes, it is.

Yes, I recommend by-passing the stock amp. The amp will be fine with the w6. I have a W3 receiving up to 150 rms and it is great. (see sig)

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

with 150w rms running, does it outbump your stock parts? i see you have type r's now. was there a significant difference in mids and highs? and are you running stock HU?

bigblazinboot-
it's cool, cept i still have to teach here, which sucks. half a day lost b/c i have to teach her. at least i don't have to buy any boarding stuff this season since i bought it all last weekend.

slo007

I disconnected the rear deck. It was futile. The OEM rear speakers are almost invisible, even running on the stock amp. I'll replace them in the future.

The Type R's have great mids. The tweets are too bright, though (way too high). Any whistle-like sound breaks my ears -- I have to turn the volume down. I plan on replacing the tweets sometime in the future. And yes, there was a significant difference from stock. The OEM TSX system is very muffled and has poor volume. The new system is much cleaner and, of course, more powerful. The type R's are great for classic and jazz music, while the sub is awesome with pop and techno.

I have the NAVI HU, so it's all stock in the dashboard. I don't think it would make a significant difference to add another HU in tandem; though I miss having an MP3 player.

jpswanberg

i wouldn't bother with the rear speakers, as they tend to detract from the staging and imaging of the front speakers. presently i have a 10w3 v2 powered (overpowered?) by a 500/1. sounds great even after 4 + years of use(abuse!). 10w6 v2 should hit a lower frequency and ultimately play louder. slightly more accurately as well probably. jps

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

you running a stock system with that sub too jps?

elduderino

No, he's not...

mr5parkle, just so you know, I've upgraded my stock system with a 75wx4 amp, MB Quart 6x9 woofers, Alpine X-type 5.25s and tweeters, and it "outbumps" any OE system - louder, cleaner, more bass, better bass - and I have NO SUBS and NO BOX!

Think what will happen with a box!

slo007

Smart man to use 5.25's...

jpswanberg

alpine cda9833 (in not an ashtray)
jl 300/4
dynaudio mw160 gt
dynaudio md 100
jl 500/1
10w3 v2 out of my old vw stealthbox
alpine xm radio tuner
alpine ipod controller

Tsx536

I wanna see pics of your deck mounted in the "Not an Ashtray".

Sounds interesting!

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oIBCpvh..._info&i=101PL2

anyone have experience with this? and is this what i need to get my amp hooked up to my stock system? if so, this may be easier than i thought it would be to install myself.

ResidualFreedom

Yes that will give you the ability to change the regular speaker wire to RCA, which will allow you to give your amp (s) sound through RCA's.. some amps have a (+/-) wire input as well as an RCA.

With that product you will also have to run wire to ground it.. looking closely at it I can't see a power input so you may not a power but you will surely need a ground wire.

elduderino

The AudioLink works very well. It is a passive device and does not need power. Howevver, it MUST go directly to wires that go to speakers! If you connect it to wires that go from the head unit to the outboard amp, it won't work well - those wires are very low in level.

Also, the TL uses a different kind of signal (at least I think the Bose system does). RCA's use what are called "single-ended" signals - they have a + and a ground. Bose systems and many other OE amp systems, and pro sound gear, often uses "balanced differential" systems - there is a (+), a (-), and a ground, and they are better at noise -cancelling. The TSX uses single-ended between the amp and the HU, but I THINK the Bose systems in the TL use balanced differential.

Sometimes people use speaker level adapters like the AudioLink as balanced adapters. It is a crappy shortcut - there are better adapters out there by Peripheral, Soundgate, PAN, and others.

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

Peripheral P15
http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.as...cific=jnqqprc8

Peripheral P35
http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.as...cific=jnqrdnr8

Peripheral SVEN2
http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.as...cific=jqergoe8

Peripheral VENDETTAII
http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.as...cific=jnrrfsd8

Peripheral VENREM
http://www.autosoundgear.com/tek9.as...cific=jnrrjpi8

soundgate
http://www.soundgate.com/products/li...put/type-2.htm

ok lost already, which one? i like the sound gate one since they said it was designed to interface with bose systems.

elduderino

Your head unit sends an unamplified, "pre-amp level" signal to your amplifier.

Your amplifier sends an amplified, "speaker-level" signal to your speakers.

Bose systems, like many other factory systems, use a "balanced differential" signal from the head unit to tha amplifer. THis signal type is used in pro audio but not in car audio usually (RCA cables use "single-ended" preamp signals).

Bose systems usually use the same amplified signal from the amp to the speakers as any other system (I say usually since 80's and 90's Nissan Bose systems sometimes used funky speaker impedances, but I digress...)

So what most Acura owners do when adding a bass amp and a woofer is NOT to grab the pramp signal between the HU and the amp.

They usually grab the speaker level signals (and wires) going to the R 6x9 woofers.

This is physically easier. Technically, it's better to go pre-amp, but it's a lot more work and usually with only a woofer being added, there's no benefit.

So you need to decide what you are going to do, but if your car as rear-deck 6x9 "subs" like I think it does, I'd go with the Audiolink and tap the speakers wires right there in the trunk.

mr5parkle

iTrader: (1)

cool, thanks elduderino. and yea, i think the CL has 2 6x9's in the back and was hoping the audiolink would work. hopefully, it'll great, but of course, not like an aftermarket HU.