DX-6 Alternatives
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
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I'm sure there is... but I did a LOT of searching before stumbling onto the POLK DX6s.
1. They fit the small door frame hole
2. They fit the stock screw hole pattern
3. They fit the shallow window clearance
4. They are an exact fit for the existing 3/4" factory spacer/basket. (Just cut the plastic rear basket off to create a open air spacer).
5. They have a FULL SIZE 1" silk dome tweeter
6. They are the MOST efficient speaker that I could find at that size with a full size tweeter and good frequency response. Other NICE speakers generally require more power than the headunit is capable of providing. (i.e., aftermarket amp)
7. They have a convenient terminal strip on the back that makes it easy to change the crossover frequency or cutdown the level of the tweeter with a series resistor.
8. They sound a LOT better than the stock Bose and can still handle the extra power of an aftermarket amp in the future.
That's some of the reasons that I keep pushing them... BUT THE MAIN REASON IS THAT THEY HAVE BEEN DISCONTINUED... I wanted us TLS owners to be able to jump on them before they were all gone... They listed for $169/pair but can typically be found at close out prices of around $100 bucks. For $100 bucks, I consider them disposable if something bigger and better comes along in the upgrade future. For now, they do quite nicely for the money and work involved.
Somebody will find something that they like better out there... There's always something better, and everybody likes something different... especially with sound. Sound is definitely subjective. But again, I don't think anybody has been disappointed with the Polks, considering the cost and the ease of installation and modification capabilities.
No hard feelings to anyone who wants something else... But as outlined above, they are a great bang for the buck!
Good luck on your search!
Southbound
1. They fit the small door frame hole
2. They fit the stock screw hole pattern
3. They fit the shallow window clearance
4. They are an exact fit for the existing 3/4" factory spacer/basket. (Just cut the plastic rear basket off to create a open air spacer).
5. They have a FULL SIZE 1" silk dome tweeter
6. They are the MOST efficient speaker that I could find at that size with a full size tweeter and good frequency response. Other NICE speakers generally require more power than the headunit is capable of providing. (i.e., aftermarket amp)
7. They have a convenient terminal strip on the back that makes it easy to change the crossover frequency or cutdown the level of the tweeter with a series resistor.
8. They sound a LOT better than the stock Bose and can still handle the extra power of an aftermarket amp in the future.
That's some of the reasons that I keep pushing them... BUT THE MAIN REASON IS THAT THEY HAVE BEEN DISCONTINUED... I wanted us TLS owners to be able to jump on them before they were all gone... They listed for $169/pair but can typically be found at close out prices of around $100 bucks. For $100 bucks, I consider them disposable if something bigger and better comes along in the upgrade future. For now, they do quite nicely for the money and work involved.
Somebody will find something that they like better out there... There's always something better, and everybody likes something different... especially with sound. Sound is definitely subjective. But again, I don't think anybody has been disappointed with the Polks, considering the cost and the ease of installation and modification capabilities.
No hard feelings to anyone who wants something else... But as outlined above, they are a great bang for the buck!
Good luck on your search!
Southbound
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 698
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Here's the thread that started out all of the Polk DX6 madness. If you have a week, feel free to read all about it.
It will tell you how I searched and discovered the Polks...
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...d&pagenumber=1
Have Fun!
Southbound
It will tell you how I searched and discovered the Polks...
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...d&pagenumber=1
Have Fun!
Southbound
Eurotrash
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 752
Likes: 44
From: Marin County, California
Polk DX-6 installation in 2001 CL-S
Dear Southbound:
I am very grateful for your thorough series of Polk DX-6 installations and mods, and I'd like to add my observations.
I have a 2001 CL-S, which uses a 6.5" in each front door (with a tweeter in the sail panel) and a pair of coax 6x9's in the rear deck, so it's different from a TL.
I have always found Polk's approach to middle-end hi-fi to provide the smoothest sounding speakers for the money, whether for home or car audio. I have installed a couple of pairs of an early Polk 4" model (MM-1?) in 1989, but found that they were too fragile for a car environment, even mounted in the dash driven with modest power. They barely outlasted the warranty and left me with a poor opinion about Polk car audio. But they sounded great.
When I got my car (2001 CL-S) in January, I thought the factory system could be adjusted to sound pretty good, but after a couple of months I thought something was amiss: It was the Blose speakers. They were obviously designed with a spectrum analyzer to provide a pretty good frequency response with steady sine waves, but they had no transient response ("speed" or "snap") and tended to muddle everything. As my hunt for replacement speakers began, there you were, Southbound, with an excellent assessment of the situation. You are exactly right about all the advantages of the Polk DX-6's, and I found a pair cheap on eBay. I overlooked my previous bad experience and looked forward to much improved Polk sound.
I decided to forgo the mods and just install the speakers and then decide where to go from there. On the passenger side I disconnected the factory tweeter and installed the DX-6. But on the driver's side I decided to keep the factory tweeter connected and instead disconnected the fabric dome tweeter in the DX-6 (a shame, I know). This way I could keep the imaging higher up and replace the factory tweeter with a small fabric dome tweeter at a later date, if necessary. And I lucked out! As it turns out, the EQ circuit in a CL is not so pronounced as in a TL, thanks to the CL having factory tweeters, I presume. And the factory tweeter isn't as awful as I expected, now that the Blose mids are gone. And the system sounds so much better: percussive attacks are fast, and voices are intelligible, but volume is slightly down, as expected. I think it sounds smoothest with the treble turned down three LCD segments and the bass flat. Sorry, I don't think I'll be trying out your termination mod until the rear speakers are replaced. Now the weakness in the system comes from the crappy 6x9's in the deck, even with the fader all the way forward. They try so hard to make bass, to no avail. Now I'm thinking of making an adapter/spacer so I can mount a pair of 8" free air woofers in place of the 6x9's. It always amazes me that people will make a separate trunk space-robbing woofer cabinet and not take advantage of the trunk volume itself and mount free air woofers in the deck (or in the pass-through).
A couple of observations: Go ahead and just use the factory screws as they won't really interfere with the rubber surrounds on the Polks even though they look like they touch. And when bending down the terminal piece on the Polks to clear the opening, make sure the leads behind the woofer cone are pulled clear so they don't cause a vibration due to the extra length they now have to rattle against the cone. Check this after mounting by playing them loudly before the door trim goes back on. And, for what it's worth, the Blose 6.5" mids in the CL are in fact 2 ohms impedance.
Keep us up to date on any further improvements. And thanks again!
Tosh
I am very grateful for your thorough series of Polk DX-6 installations and mods, and I'd like to add my observations.
I have a 2001 CL-S, which uses a 6.5" in each front door (with a tweeter in the sail panel) and a pair of coax 6x9's in the rear deck, so it's different from a TL.
I have always found Polk's approach to middle-end hi-fi to provide the smoothest sounding speakers for the money, whether for home or car audio. I have installed a couple of pairs of an early Polk 4" model (MM-1?) in 1989, but found that they were too fragile for a car environment, even mounted in the dash driven with modest power. They barely outlasted the warranty and left me with a poor opinion about Polk car audio. But they sounded great.
When I got my car (2001 CL-S) in January, I thought the factory system could be adjusted to sound pretty good, but after a couple of months I thought something was amiss: It was the Blose speakers. They were obviously designed with a spectrum analyzer to provide a pretty good frequency response with steady sine waves, but they had no transient response ("speed" or "snap") and tended to muddle everything. As my hunt for replacement speakers began, there you were, Southbound, with an excellent assessment of the situation. You are exactly right about all the advantages of the Polk DX-6's, and I found a pair cheap on eBay. I overlooked my previous bad experience and looked forward to much improved Polk sound.
I decided to forgo the mods and just install the speakers and then decide where to go from there. On the passenger side I disconnected the factory tweeter and installed the DX-6. But on the driver's side I decided to keep the factory tweeter connected and instead disconnected the fabric dome tweeter in the DX-6 (a shame, I know). This way I could keep the imaging higher up and replace the factory tweeter with a small fabric dome tweeter at a later date, if necessary. And I lucked out! As it turns out, the EQ circuit in a CL is not so pronounced as in a TL, thanks to the CL having factory tweeters, I presume. And the factory tweeter isn't as awful as I expected, now that the Blose mids are gone. And the system sounds so much better: percussive attacks are fast, and voices are intelligible, but volume is slightly down, as expected. I think it sounds smoothest with the treble turned down three LCD segments and the bass flat. Sorry, I don't think I'll be trying out your termination mod until the rear speakers are replaced. Now the weakness in the system comes from the crappy 6x9's in the deck, even with the fader all the way forward. They try so hard to make bass, to no avail. Now I'm thinking of making an adapter/spacer so I can mount a pair of 8" free air woofers in place of the 6x9's. It always amazes me that people will make a separate trunk space-robbing woofer cabinet and not take advantage of the trunk volume itself and mount free air woofers in the deck (or in the pass-through).
A couple of observations: Go ahead and just use the factory screws as they won't really interfere with the rubber surrounds on the Polks even though they look like they touch. And when bending down the terminal piece on the Polks to clear the opening, make sure the leads behind the woofer cone are pulled clear so they don't cause a vibration due to the extra length they now have to rattle against the cone. Check this after mounting by playing them loudly before the door trim goes back on. And, for what it's worth, the Blose 6.5" mids in the CL are in fact 2 ohms impedance.
Keep us up to date on any further improvements. And thanks again!
Tosh
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Boston
I've read into much of the Polk DX6 threads and just had a simple question that I can't seem to find an answer to. Can I just replace the factory speakers with Polk DX6's without any other modification, i.e terminator mod? In other words, plug and play. If so, how much better is the sound quality?
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 698
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Tosh,
Great write up is right! It's obvious that you know your stuff! Nothing I say, will ever fool you... I have to admit that I had a problem deciding whether to buy the CLS or the TLS. When we first sat in a TLS on the lot, I brought a CD and asked the salesman if I could checkout the stereo. I knew that it sucked from the first moment. I was very disappointed with the premium Bose system. I then went to the CLS and checked out its stereo. I felt that it sounded much better due to the tweeters, and almost went with buying it over the TLS for the stereo alone. However, my wife convinced me to go the more practical route and buy the sedan, even though the CLS felt better and sounded better to drive.
However, I'm sure that I would have eventually arrived at the same point that you are now. You make some very good points about how the EQ must not be nearly so pre-emphasised due to the use of tweeters. That would definitely make the stock Polks sound better without having to do any freq. mods. I find it interesting that the Blose midrange speakers are 2ohms? This would explain why the Polks do sound noticeably less in volume to you. They are about 3db softer than the TLS 4ohm Blose... but 2ohm speakers would put out another 3db for the same input, which would have you down by about 6db with the Polks as compared to the stock CLS blose system. As long as you can still drive the amp into limiting, that's as good as it gets without adding an extra market amp. You have done some nice trials with the tweeters. Whatever sounds best to you is what counts. I, too, would prefer the tweeters to be higher up in the doors like the CLS. I would think that some nice 6X9 coaxial speakers that had some real punch and some decent bass might sound really nice for you as an option. Then add a subwoofer between them, if needed, and you would be totally happy. I know what you mean about taking up valuable trunk space for subwoofer boxes when the volume of the trunk can be made to accomplish a lot of the same effects. But to each his own... I'm not about to flame anybody for their preferences or tradeoffs.
You are also very cognizant of sinwaves vs. complex audio waveforms. Therefore, you should have been very interested in the audio waveforms that Iggy posted for me showing the terminator mod's effect. The transient response is definitely improved along with overshoot, ringing and damping, etc. When you get all of your speakers replaced... I think you're the kind of guy who would appreciate the difference that you would hear by adding the terminator mod... I know, I know.... I sound like a broken record... but try it, you'll like it.
Iggy,
The Actual "true impedance" of a speaker does vary with frequency and the crossover network involved. However, it is customary to design the voice coil to have a "DCR" (DC resistance) that is close to the overall impedance of the speaker. This is due to the fact that GOOD amps are direct coupled, (as opposed to AC coupled using a coupling cap) and they do not like to see a short circuit down at very low frequencys or at their idle DC current. Therefore the voice coil uses enough turns at the right gauge of wire to provide a resistance that stays close to the speakers AC impedance... So if you simply take an OHM METER and ohm out the terminals of a speaker you can find out its nominal impedance. The factory Blose ohm out around 3.8ohms DCR, and the Polks ohm out around 3.6ohms DCR, I believe... (it's been awhile since I checked them from memory) Therefore they are rated as 4ohm speakers. Just like the blose subwoofer only ohms out at around 1/2ohm DCR, that takes a very stable amp to drive that low of an impedance speaker. I doubt that it really does it well. A new subwoofer amp, and a higher impedance subwoofer would probably provide a more stable and solid sound. What ohms is the Kicker RM8? If its 4ohms or so, I would assume that the stock amp would not drive it that loud. The lower the impedance, with the same signal voltage, obviously means more power and more SPL. However, the tradeoff is making a truly stable amp to drive that heavy of a load. The amp is continuously on the verge of its self protection mode, and whenever a very fast transient spike comes along... it can't faithfully reproduce it while it's trying to fold itself back at the same time. Then it flys back up and overshoots after the transient has passed... This produces a "mudflap" sound when you were hoping for clean, smooth and tight bass. But with a fixed 12volt power supply... it's a compromise that blose makes. The real solution, of course, is to have an aftermarket amp that has an internal step up power supply in order to feed more that 12volts to the speakers. Then you can get back to the range of normal speakers, and design the output stage of the amp to remain stable throughout all types of waveforms.
Ihommec13,
YES, YOU CAN SIMPLY REPLACE THE FACTORY BOSE SPEAKERS WITH THE POLKS DX6s... They are as close to "plug and play" as you will find. The only thing you have to do to mount them, is to cut the back out of the factory spacer/basket, and then replace the factory connector with simple push on crimp connectors.
The sound improvement in this case is still well worth the time and money involved. I started out this way, but eventually came up with the rolloff mod to tame down the highs. Since the Polks have an actual tweeter, and the stock EQ was set to boost the highs so that the paper single cone blose speaker could begin to produce some sort of highs... you will probably find things pretty bright. However, if you turn the treble control down by about 3 clicks, it starts to sound fairly decent. As stated above, you will gain and instant improvement in attack time respone and clarity. This means snare drums are crisp and vocals are not smeared. Yeah, you can go this simple and easy route, and still be glad that you did. The other mods are just fine tweaks upon this upgrade.
Thanks for all of the reponses guys... and as usual, GOOD LUCK! Southy
Great write up is right! It's obvious that you know your stuff! Nothing I say, will ever fool you... I have to admit that I had a problem deciding whether to buy the CLS or the TLS. When we first sat in a TLS on the lot, I brought a CD and asked the salesman if I could checkout the stereo. I knew that it sucked from the first moment. I was very disappointed with the premium Bose system. I then went to the CLS and checked out its stereo. I felt that it sounded much better due to the tweeters, and almost went with buying it over the TLS for the stereo alone. However, my wife convinced me to go the more practical route and buy the sedan, even though the CLS felt better and sounded better to drive.
However, I'm sure that I would have eventually arrived at the same point that you are now. You make some very good points about how the EQ must not be nearly so pre-emphasised due to the use of tweeters. That would definitely make the stock Polks sound better without having to do any freq. mods. I find it interesting that the Blose midrange speakers are 2ohms? This would explain why the Polks do sound noticeably less in volume to you. They are about 3db softer than the TLS 4ohm Blose... but 2ohm speakers would put out another 3db for the same input, which would have you down by about 6db with the Polks as compared to the stock CLS blose system. As long as you can still drive the amp into limiting, that's as good as it gets without adding an extra market amp. You have done some nice trials with the tweeters. Whatever sounds best to you is what counts. I, too, would prefer the tweeters to be higher up in the doors like the CLS. I would think that some nice 6X9 coaxial speakers that had some real punch and some decent bass might sound really nice for you as an option. Then add a subwoofer between them, if needed, and you would be totally happy. I know what you mean about taking up valuable trunk space for subwoofer boxes when the volume of the trunk can be made to accomplish a lot of the same effects. But to each his own... I'm not about to flame anybody for their preferences or tradeoffs.
You are also very cognizant of sinwaves vs. complex audio waveforms. Therefore, you should have been very interested in the audio waveforms that Iggy posted for me showing the terminator mod's effect. The transient response is definitely improved along with overshoot, ringing and damping, etc. When you get all of your speakers replaced... I think you're the kind of guy who would appreciate the difference that you would hear by adding the terminator mod... I know, I know.... I sound like a broken record... but try it, you'll like it.
Iggy,
The Actual "true impedance" of a speaker does vary with frequency and the crossover network involved. However, it is customary to design the voice coil to have a "DCR" (DC resistance) that is close to the overall impedance of the speaker. This is due to the fact that GOOD amps are direct coupled, (as opposed to AC coupled using a coupling cap) and they do not like to see a short circuit down at very low frequencys or at their idle DC current. Therefore the voice coil uses enough turns at the right gauge of wire to provide a resistance that stays close to the speakers AC impedance... So if you simply take an OHM METER and ohm out the terminals of a speaker you can find out its nominal impedance. The factory Blose ohm out around 3.8ohms DCR, and the Polks ohm out around 3.6ohms DCR, I believe... (it's been awhile since I checked them from memory) Therefore they are rated as 4ohm speakers. Just like the blose subwoofer only ohms out at around 1/2ohm DCR, that takes a very stable amp to drive that low of an impedance speaker. I doubt that it really does it well. A new subwoofer amp, and a higher impedance subwoofer would probably provide a more stable and solid sound. What ohms is the Kicker RM8? If its 4ohms or so, I would assume that the stock amp would not drive it that loud. The lower the impedance, with the same signal voltage, obviously means more power and more SPL. However, the tradeoff is making a truly stable amp to drive that heavy of a load. The amp is continuously on the verge of its self protection mode, and whenever a very fast transient spike comes along... it can't faithfully reproduce it while it's trying to fold itself back at the same time. Then it flys back up and overshoots after the transient has passed... This produces a "mudflap" sound when you were hoping for clean, smooth and tight bass. But with a fixed 12volt power supply... it's a compromise that blose makes. The real solution, of course, is to have an aftermarket amp that has an internal step up power supply in order to feed more that 12volts to the speakers. Then you can get back to the range of normal speakers, and design the output stage of the amp to remain stable throughout all types of waveforms.
Ihommec13,
YES, YOU CAN SIMPLY REPLACE THE FACTORY BOSE SPEAKERS WITH THE POLKS DX6s... They are as close to "plug and play" as you will find. The only thing you have to do to mount them, is to cut the back out of the factory spacer/basket, and then replace the factory connector with simple push on crimp connectors.
The sound improvement in this case is still well worth the time and money involved. I started out this way, but eventually came up with the rolloff mod to tame down the highs. Since the Polks have an actual tweeter, and the stock EQ was set to boost the highs so that the paper single cone blose speaker could begin to produce some sort of highs... you will probably find things pretty bright. However, if you turn the treble control down by about 3 clicks, it starts to sound fairly decent. As stated above, you will gain and instant improvement in attack time respone and clarity. This means snare drums are crisp and vocals are not smeared. Yeah, you can go this simple and easy route, and still be glad that you did. The other mods are just fine tweaks upon this upgrade.
Thanks for all of the reponses guys... and as usual, GOOD LUCK! Southy
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Thread Starter
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Re: DX-6 Alternatives
Originally posted by southbound
I'm sure there is... but I did a LOT of searching before stumbling onto the POLK DX6s.
I'm sure there is... but I did a LOT of searching before stumbling onto the POLK DX6s.
So, I really searched.
Soundcity: $80:wow:
I assume they were in stock and have been shipped. My credit card got charged!
.
Pro
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If soundcity doesn't really have any... try www.speedsound.com That's the last place that I knew of that had any left in stock.
Good luck!
Southbound
Good luck!
Southbound
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Joined: Aug 2002
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I ordered one pair from Speed & Sound for $109 + $12 shipping.
After seeing a post about Sound City I ordered another pair for $80 + 1.95 insurance.
I haven't received either shipment yet, but I do have a tracking # for the Sound City order. I'm going to call Speed & Sound tomorrow - I placed my order 11 days ago and my credit card has been charged, but no speakers.
Too bad Sound City is out! That was a great deal (OK, not as good as Southy's $59 at Frys', but still decent anyway.)
After seeing a post about Sound City I ordered another pair for $80 + 1.95 insurance.
I haven't received either shipment yet, but I do have a tracking # for the Sound City order. I'm going to call Speed & Sound tomorrow - I placed my order 11 days ago and my credit card has been charged, but no speakers.
Too bad Sound City is out! That was a great deal (OK, not as good as Southy's $59 at Frys', but still decent anyway.)
Thread Starter
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Originally posted by got_3.2?
i just went to soundcity.com i didnt see the Dx6 anywhere on the site.
i just went to soundcity.com i didnt see the Dx6 anywhere on the site.
Now, I can't find the DX-6s on their site anymore.
Maybe they're out and have corrected the site, OR, I got a pair, then they ran out!
_
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Good news egilsrud! I was going to ask you if you ordered your DX6s via the telephone from www.speedsound.com ? They wouldn't take internet orders on line, but rather provided a phone number to call. When I called, a very nice lady answered and spoke to me all about what a great deal the DX6s were. She said when they were gone, they would be gone... SO I ordered two pairs just for backup... She definitely knew whether they had them in stock or not... it wasn't like some dimwit taking my order and saying they pass my order along. This lady new her inventory. They did ship by UPS ground which did take about 7 days to arrive.... When you were saying you had gone 11 days I was beginning to wonder, and was going to ask if your ordered via the phone. Sounds like you're cool with them now... So that's not an issue anymore. I had the same type of experience that you may be having with Sound City back in April from www.competitionsound.com They took my order online and claimed they were in stock. After waiting a month for my rears, I finally called them and they said that they were backorderd? Backoredered from a source that is no longer made???? Anyway, I have YET to receive any speakers from Competition Sound... However, they never actually charged my credit card, although they took the number.... I have written them off at this point. This may be the same deal with Sound City... Until you see your account statement actually being charged, they may have just taken the number for an order that will never happen?
Give Sound City a call and see what the real deal is... if they can't make good, go to speed and sound while you still can. If that doesn't work, (it's the last source that I know of) Give BFOR3 an email and buy the speakers off of him. I met up with him and bought my rear DX6s from him after competition sound didn't deliver. His were brand new and installed in April, 2002. By the nice look of his ride... he definitely takes good care of things. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them used from him if it's your only choice. I know that he would prefer not to ship, but perhaps some deal could be made.
The good news is that .05uF caps are EASY to get. THEY MAKE THEM EVERYWHERE... they are actually very common. It's just a matter of finding the right kind of electronics supply stores. You shouldn't have to wait long for them to arrive. In the meantime, you can do the resistor and rolloff cap mod, and let the RTV dry. Remember, the resistor is pretty much essential for these speakers to sound right with the factory EQ... the additional roll off cap is optional and subjective depending upon the individual's hearing and listening preferences. The stock treble control just doesn't allow you to turn down the highs on the POLKS without losing too much of the midrange as well. With the resistor and rolloff cap, you can turn up the treble a few notches which brings back your midrange snap and punch while not becoming too sibilant in the highs. Do all the mods and you will be happy! (at least for a while)
eggbert, egilsrud, I too, can't find any POlK DX6s listed anywhere on Sound City's website. It's hard to believe that they update their website immediately... therefore, they may have been out of stock of these for a week or a month or so, until they finally dropped them from the website. Here's the link from "Speed and Sound" That gets you directly to the Polk DX6 page... they still say they have them, and refer you to the phone number that I used to order mine. I hope their page is still current? TOO BAD that these nice simple replacement speakers are going bye bye fast.
http://www.speedsound.com/polkdxseriesspeakers.html
GOOD LUCK! Southbound
Give Sound City a call and see what the real deal is... if they can't make good, go to speed and sound while you still can. If that doesn't work, (it's the last source that I know of) Give BFOR3 an email and buy the speakers off of him. I met up with him and bought my rear DX6s from him after competition sound didn't deliver. His were brand new and installed in April, 2002. By the nice look of his ride... he definitely takes good care of things. I wouldn't hesitate to buy them used from him if it's your only choice. I know that he would prefer not to ship, but perhaps some deal could be made.
The good news is that .05uF caps are EASY to get. THEY MAKE THEM EVERYWHERE... they are actually very common. It's just a matter of finding the right kind of electronics supply stores. You shouldn't have to wait long for them to arrive. In the meantime, you can do the resistor and rolloff cap mod, and let the RTV dry. Remember, the resistor is pretty much essential for these speakers to sound right with the factory EQ... the additional roll off cap is optional and subjective depending upon the individual's hearing and listening preferences. The stock treble control just doesn't allow you to turn down the highs on the POLKS without losing too much of the midrange as well. With the resistor and rolloff cap, you can turn up the treble a few notches which brings back your midrange snap and punch while not becoming too sibilant in the highs. Do all the mods and you will be happy! (at least for a while)
eggbert, egilsrud, I too, can't find any POlK DX6s listed anywhere on Sound City's website. It's hard to believe that they update their website immediately... therefore, they may have been out of stock of these for a week or a month or so, until they finally dropped them from the website. Here's the link from "Speed and Sound" That gets you directly to the Polk DX6 page... they still say they have them, and refer you to the phone number that I used to order mine. I hope their page is still current? TOO BAD that these nice simple replacement speakers are going bye bye fast.
http://www.speedsound.com/polkdxseriesspeakers.html
GOOD LUCK! Southbound
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Hi Southy, thanks for the reply.
Dayum, the Polks are nice! When I first took them out of the box, my first thought was "there's no way these speakers will fit in the door". Of course they will, but I was surprised at the heft of the magnet and the quality of the materials. I can't wait to hear how they sound!
As far as my order from soundcity.com - I did call them last week, and they provided a tracking number. The UPS web site indicates that they will be here Monday. Too bad I leave on Monday for a business trip to LA
Thanks again for all the help - I'm gonna get rolling on the Dynamat (no pun intended).
Dayum, the Polks are nice! When I first took them out of the box, my first thought was "there's no way these speakers will fit in the door". Of course they will, but I was surprised at the heft of the magnet and the quality of the materials. I can't wait to hear how they sound!
As far as my order from soundcity.com - I did call them last week, and they provided a tracking number. The UPS web site indicates that they will be here Monday. Too bad I leave on Monday for a business trip to LA
Thanks again for all the help - I'm gonna get rolling on the Dynamat (no pun intended).
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Joined: Feb 2002
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Cool!
eggbert,
You won't find a better or easier upgrade for $80 bucks!
You can't lose on this deal... It's like I've told everyone all along... If later on, you decide to scrap the entire system and do a complete overhaul... the speakers are disposable at this price. You will certainly get your monies worth, no matter how long you end up keeping them.
I've got TWO backup pairs to replace all four of mine, just in case they somehow deteriorate down the road.
They sure beat the blose... egilsrud sure sounded pleased at the results for the effort and money. Some people may think they suck, but what do you want for a closeout price of $80bucks?
Good luck!
Southbound
You won't find a better or easier upgrade for $80 bucks!
You can't lose on this deal... It's like I've told everyone all along... If later on, you decide to scrap the entire system and do a complete overhaul... the speakers are disposable at this price. You will certainly get your monies worth, no matter how long you end up keeping them.
I've got TWO backup pairs to replace all four of mine, just in case they somehow deteriorate down the road.
They sure beat the blose... egilsrud sure sounded pleased at the results for the effort and money. Some people may think they suck, but what do you want for a closeout price of $80bucks?
Good luck!
Southbound
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 154
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Ash3ktl, give Speed & Sound a call - I think they still have some. You'll pay a bit more ($121 including shipping), but they're worth it.
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
I do agree that, given the low cost and ease of installation, it is the simplest way to upgrade the factory system.
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
I do agree that, given the low cost and ease of installation, it is the simplest way to upgrade the factory system.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by egilsrud
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
But they were _really_ closeouts.
They were bubble wrapped, no Polk box. Just the speakers and the grills, slightly dusty but no evidence of ever being mounted.
Haven't tried them yet... busy... will be a few weekends before I have that kind of time to play with the car.
egilsrud, what condition were your DX6s in? Still in box or not?
.
Instructor
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Mine were in the box with all the original packing material. I don't see any difference with the pair that I got from Speed & Sound.
I plan to install them tonight or tomorrow - if I notice anything unusual I will let y'all know.
I plan to install them tonight or tomorrow - if I notice anything unusual I will let y'all know.
Cruisin'
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 18
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Polk mods?
I'm sorry to ask a question that I KNOW has been asked a million times, but............stupidity reigns!
I understand the Polk mods will pull down the factory EQ highs designed for the Blose speakers. If true, where can I find this info on the Board?? Even tho' I've got a active EQ installed for the front speakers, I just can't damp them down enough without losing the mid and mid-bass.
Many thanks,
JOHN
I understand the Polk mods will pull down the factory EQ highs designed for the Blose speakers. If true, where can I find this info on the Board?? Even tho' I've got a active EQ installed for the front speakers, I just can't damp them down enough without losing the mid and mid-bass.
Many thanks,
JOHN
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 698
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Their are many threads that talk about the mod. Do you have the Polk DX6s or some other make of speaker? As long as you have components or coaxials with a way to get to the tweeter wiring without destroying the assembly, then the mod should also work for any speaker using the STOCK HEAD UNIT... If you have an aftermarket amp, then it is best to bypass the EQ. This flattens things completely, (at the cost of some gain) and it prevents the tweeter resistor from possibly getting too hot with the extra power of an aftermarket amp. The problem that you are having in not being able to bring down the sibilance without also affecting the desired midrange is EXACTLY what this mod was designed for in the STOCK SYSTEM... I'm a bit surprised that a multiple band EQ can't take care of it? But, then again, that BLOSE EQ is a BEAST TO BEAT! So this mod could also help you....???
Do a search for a thread that I started called "Polk DX-6 Fix" or something like that. It was the first thread involving the mod.
Good Luck!
Southbound
Do a search for a thread that I started called "Polk DX-6 Fix" or something like that. It was the first thread involving the mod.
Good Luck!
Southbound
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 77
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From: NJ
Originally posted by egilsrud
Ash3ktl, give Speed & Sound a call - I think they still have some. You'll pay a bit more ($121 including shipping), but they're worth it.
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
I do agree that, given the low cost and ease of installation, it is the simplest way to upgrade the factory system.
Ash3ktl, give Speed & Sound a call - I think they still have some. You'll pay a bit more ($121 including shipping), but they're worth it.
By the way, I would like to thank you for turning me on to Sound City - I got a pair from them for $80, apparently just before they ran out of stock.
I do agree that, given the low cost and ease of installation, it is the simplest way to upgrade the factory system.
eggbert-
My DX6s were also in factory packaging. I even tested them on my home theater. They are pretty good. Hope the ones you recvd are allright.
Southbound-
In case I don't find DX6s, are there any other "compatible" speakers? Also I wanted to know whether you've started on the subwoofer mod yet.
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