can i connect my new amp directly to the stock HU and get any volume? i've tried using a line output converter from the HU and got no volume. when i connected my new amp after the signal passed through the bose amp it worked fine, but the bose amp must have a preset crossover taking out all the bass which is the point of the amp and new speakers.(it still SOUNDS like bose even though its much louder) can i turn the leads from the HU into RCAs and put them into my new amp bypassing the bose amp?

 

No, you can not simply connect RCAs to the head unit outputs. I spent a lot of time trying different methods of making that work. I ended up buying an AudioLink pd4 that makes all the signal conversions for me. Really worked slick. All the EQ resides in the Bose amp, so adding a new amp and speakers really helps. The head unit doesn't suck nearly as much as people say when you get rid of the amp and speakers. I added a Basslink at the same time...

http://www.linkmeup.com/pd4.htm

 

the best way i found to run an aftermarket amp with factory hu is to search for a nice amp with high level inputs and tap into the wires coming from the rear speakers, therefore you will have low noise and cleaner/higher output because the amp does the converting actively so therefore producing cleaner sound.

i have (2) profile 600m 1-channel mono sub-amps at 300 watts rms per channel running (2) infinity kappa 12's with 350 watts rms and i'm getting clear booming ass bass and don't have not one complaint to report about the system at all.

FYI: when you complete your system, you will not here the full bass from your trunk because it is sealed tight. what i do is open up that little trunk access door in the middle of the rear seat(if you have that option) and the bass just comes pouring out of that little hole. you will be surprised........good luck!!

 

The problem you may have experienced with the line output converter is that it is not the right unit. I had to experiment with the SOUNDGATE loc's and talk to their techies until we found the correct one that worked. I'm coming directly out of the factory h/u thru the SOUNDGATE LOC PRE-A, thru an Alpine EQ, into the JL amps, and I have the settings on the JL's down low, and I'm putting out more than enough sound with the volume bar indicater on the h/u at 1/2 than I need, with acres of room for more volume if ever needed.

 

I will tell everyone what i'm tring to do with my system, this may help... I want to add a new 4 channel amp, 6x9s and a 12" sub. leaving the bose amp to power the front. i will call audiolink about the pd2, and soundgate about the LOCB.2 tomorrow to see which will work best. i just want them to recieve their signal from the HU and not the bose amp which cuts out the low bass.

 

oh yeah just to let you all know my LOC was to change from speaker level to preamp level which is why i got no volume. the leads coming from the HU are infact preamp level but are carried through regular wire instead of an RCA. i did a ghetto experiment... i took some RCA cables, cut off the ends on one side and connected the shield braiding to the negative and the conductor to the positive leads from the HU. i plugged the other ends of my cable into the amps RCA inputs and it worked great except some slight huming noise which is from poor grounding. it definitely had more low end bass and thump than when the new amp was connected the to the bose amp. but im worried there might be an issue (impedance, voltage or otherwise) about hooking the stock pioneer HU up to a regular (non bose) amp this way. if not, ill just slap in a Ground Loop Noise Isolator for that huming/alternator interference and be done with it

 

I did the same, solder rca jacks on the stock HU. Then to my audiocontrol 3in1. Built in line driver 13vrms, 24db hi/low crossover, and 3 band EQ. Best part of my system.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/

 

http://www.audiocontrol.com/MobileAu...sh/Three1.html

 

well it looks like im going to install the soundgate LOCB2 behind the HU i got it for $89.95 vs. 149.00 for the audiolink pd2. is it hard to get behind the HU? can i slide it out some how? or do i need to take the dash apart? thanks people!

 

are you replacing your h/u? if not, you shouldn't have to put out that much money for a preamp level conversion. now if you are planning to replace the h/u in the near future well then you should keep your soundgate. if you want a nice preamp level for a nice price then wal-mart has a scosche 4-channel preamp level converter for $17.00(in my area) with input adjustments. the url is below:




http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...%3A3947%3A4429

 

I installed taps at the point where the signal enters the Bose amp. The levels encountered at that point were the same as those used in line level inputs (RCA inputs) which are up to 1000mvolts or 1 volt max. These signals although connected to the Bose amp via twisted pair, they are not speaker level.

What this all means is that with good soldering techniques you should connect the input to the Bose amp to RCA terminals and that would go to your aftermarket amp.

To avoid huming noises you should tap the ground connection between the Bose amp and the Head Unit, connect that to the aftermarket amp ground and to a good chassis ground point.

I got an Alpine 4 channel amp and replaced all speakers. Signal is clean and there is plenty of power to go around.

 

Exactly what part of the English language don't you understand? If you read my post, you should have noted the part that said: "I had to experiment with the SOUNDGATE loc's and talk to their techies until we found the correct one that worked. I'm coming directly out of the factory h/u thru the SOUNDGATE LOC PRE-A ...". I didn't say it at the time, but if you would have asked, I would have told you that the LOCB is not/NOT the correct unit for our application. What you will end up with is "White Noise" throughout the system, and no combination of the settings on the dip switches will correct this. The closest you can come is to have all the dip switches in the lowest position, which effectively cuts all signals in all the bands to mask the fact that the white noise is there. This will also cause you to max out the volume on the h/u, which will provide about as much output as the stock unit gets at about 1/4 full. I originally talked to a technician by the name of Chet, and after about a month, started talking to the Operations Manager, Richare Spees, who admitted that the literature (even on their website) is somewhat misleading on the LOCB since the voltage coming out of the h/u (and hence into the loc) is already at a higher rate than what the loc tries to provide back to the amps. The LOCPREA is the only way to go, as it is a passive unit, you don't need to feed the +12v to the unit. There is no gimmickry involved with the loc (dip switches) to fuck around with, as the entire output is controlled by the use of a pot (potentiometer) on the LOCPREA. Also, you will not escape the existence of alternator windings coming thru lout and clear if you choose to go the LOCB route. Consider yourself warned, as I speak from personal experience with both of these units.

 

well the person i spoke to at soundgate said either the LOCB.2 or LOCPREA would work how ever he said the LOCPREA may not provide the same output voltage as the LOCB, which made since at the time because the LOCB is a powered unit, i guess which may induct that alternator noise. do you know the output voltage of the LOCPREA? does it also need to be installed as close to the h/u as possible? and yes their literature on the web site didnt help much.

 

hey Y2K3CL-S, when i asked the output voltage of the LOCPREA i meant the voltage of the h/u. i understand the locprea is passive and those figures will be the same.

 

freakygene -
thought I had saved the PM between me and a member but I cleaned it out of my queue. Just went into search and found my original post where I discovered the real difference between what the LOCB and the LOCPREA accomplish. Hopefully you'll find your answers in this. And yes, it is still recommended to place the LOCPREA as close to the h/u as possible. Setting it on top of the SRS unit works fine.

shakademus - don't know if you're still trying to decide about this, but I have finally resolved the problems I was having with my LOCB. It is not/NOT the correct unit to use. Problem is that the factory HU puts out 3.15 vrms on the speaker leads, and the LOCB is looking to provide a constant 2.5 vrms output. I was getting white noise which I thought was directly attributable to my EQ, since putting the EQ in defeat mode would terminate the noise - however alternator windings were still present. Went back to SOUNDGATE's webpage and did some more searching of their hardware, and noted the LOCPREA which is a "passive" unit. No need for grounding (which turned out to be an issue with the newer EQ) and no need for the +12v feed either. This unit is basically a "passive" pot (potentiometer). Spoke to the Operations Manager at SOUNDGATE, and he informed me that their product information can be misleading because by saying that the LOCB is used for the installation of aftermarket amps while maintaining the factory HU in effect does not apply across the board. After providing him with the HU output information - as begrudgeing provided by Acura - and some resistance measurements, he agreed that the LOCPREA was the better route to take. AND, after replacing the LOCB with the PREA tonight, all white noise and alt windings are history. Seems that since the output from the factory leads (hence the inputs to the LOCB) were more than the output that the LOCB was trying to provide, the LOCB effectively magnified the white noise/alt windings I was hearing throughout the system. All is crystal now, and I couldn't be happier. I only resurface this thread because I'm still not convinced that trying to solder two individual speaker leads - one positive and one negative - into an RCA is a smart thing to do, but I do not/NOT criticize those who have done this and are happy with the results. The PREA retails for around $62, but I have found them on the web for under $40. Cost more than going to radio shack and buying the RCA's? yup. Happier with the results and the potential ease in returning the system to stock without worrying about things such as cold solder joints and trying to solder in a very confined area? yup.

 

alright i will be installing a soundgate LOCPREA, ill let everyone know how it works. this thread really helped, thanks to all who posted

 

Y2 I went thru the same crap with Sound Gate and Richard. Spent alot of time with those expencive LOCB's. Turn switchs up and great power and sound, but a hiss noise that would drive you crazy. Turn them down ( along with the gains on your Amps and noise got better but sound sucked and your back to the Volume of the factory system. Sondgate kept saying it was a ground or my Audio Contols 6XS Crossover. Also had winding noise. Those LOCB are expensive and Soundgate is making the wrong recommendation. I even had the hiss when the Volume was completly down. LOCPREA is the correct unit to use with the system in our cars. The output Voltage of the LOCB you do not want. That's why it give's out White Noise, its too much signal.

 

that you jg ... this is exactly what I have been trying to say since December of '02 when I had these problems, and why I went back and found my post to shakademus because I knew it had all the info - including the h/u voltages and the problem with trying to use the LOCB vice the LOCPREA since the output of the h/u effectively was more than what the LOCB was looking for and in effect overdrives it - hence white noise thruout.

Appreciate the confirmation of my data.

 

Y2 we went thru the same Crap with Soundgate. What I can't beleive is that Soundgate is still telling people to use those LOCB's. I had the LOCB.2 same problem. They send way to much Voltage/Gain.
I also tried direct wiring without any converter and got alternator noise. To cure this I tried a filter and it worked but also filtered out some of the high's in the system. I also wonder why so many people change out the head unit because thats a great stock head unit if you have the right converter. I wish I had seen your info before I did my system in DEC of 03. Thanks.

 

i think it would be a good idea if there was a sticky about which LOC to use and why. i bet alot of CL owners want to just add an amp and not f* around with the HU and they'll all be going this route.

 

have you guys looked in the Scosche LOC80 or the PAC sin35?
BTW, how many watts does the stock Blose put out into each channel?

 

i read its 3.15v, im guessing thats each channel. and those scosche and pac products you mentioned are to change speaker level to preamp level. our HU's only output a preamp level signal, but carried in 2 wires instead of 1 RCA - which sucks! so using one of those LOC's will do the same thing that caused me to start this thread- low amp volume. which ever product we use it must be intended to have a preamp INPUT and preamp out. which is rare because most HU's stock or otherwise have speaker level outs.

 

Unfortunately, most of the geniuses on this site who have kept their factory h/u's condem the use of any LOC based on their experience of never ever having used one! They are hard-core advocates of soldering RCA's onto the ends of the leads going into (or coming out of) the factory Bose amp and then running them to their external amps. And while I choose not to run the risk of cold solder joints and the ensuing problems that this could lead to, I am not so narrow minded to condem their course of action. However, the same can not be said in return. Therefore, the chances of there being any kind of sticky assw this subject is as likely as the chance of snow in Kuwait.

 

can anyone tell me whats the best way to get behind the HU to install the LOCPREA? is it alot of work?

 

Huh, starting to sound like the $149 AudioLink isn't such a bad deal since it actually works!

Trust me... Been there, done that, solved the problem.