anyone out there ever hear of this harness that supposedly connects right into your aftermarket unit to the existing connections in your car?? and I heard its used to match the frequencies for premium sound out of your new unit. otherwise ur sound will suck. is this true?

 

......yeah that is a harness used by everyone.......its cheap......around $10.....and easy it use.......one end plugs into the factory HU plug and the other end has the wires to the aftermarket HU.......no need to cut wires to install an aftermarket headunit.......go to any install shop and should have one for your car.....and as for the sound not being good if you don't use one never heard of that....as long as all your wires have good connections.........

 

Actually this is not correct. The part you are looking for is called the OEM1 from PAC. You would use this module for installing an aftermarket headunit into a vehicle with an amplified BOSE system. It allows you to "signal match" your factory headunit. If you did not use this part you would have to...
(1. Bypass you factory BOSE amplifier and replace all your interior speakers.

(2. Have horrible sound from your aftermarket deck.... Because, you would be sending an amplified signal to your amplifier.

The PAC OEM1 lets you trim the input signal to your BOSE amp which results in awesome sound from your new deck. But still keeps all your BOSE amps and speakers in tact.

I believe the part runs about $50 bucks. You will also need the METRA 70-1771 harness. The OEM1 module is about the size of a cigarette pack and will fit under your new deck. I the dash.

This is all stuff that you can do by yourself. But, I always recommend that you choose a professional installer to complete the install. It removes the liability from yourself.

Let me know If you have any further questions.

 

Is there a harness for the plug that plugs into the Bose amp from the headunit? I am going to go from stock HU to a 3sixty.2 and this would make it easier to return the car to stock if I ever sell it.

 

I'm assuming that you have a 2nd Gen CL also?

I also assume that you're adding a Rockford Fosgate 360.2 subwoofer amp? To run subs?

If this is true..... you can tap the wires at the input of your BOSE amp right in the trunk. You can then use a "low wattage" high to low converter. This will give you RCA outputs to your new amp. You can also get you amplifier turn on at this same location.

Here are some pics of the CL trunk and BOSE amp.




Here is a link to the DIY section that will show you all the wire colors. Thanks to Jonesi.

https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/cl-radio-amp-wire-diagrams-300743/

 

Yeah, I want to know if there is a harness to connect to that plug so I dont have to cut and splice.

 

There is not a harness that plugs into the BOSE harness.

 

dude UNCALD 4 u know your effin product man. right on.

two ?s

so with these two parts, I dont have to cut any wires right?

and

the metra harness, how much does that guy run approximately and do u stock these parts??? if so, how much for this metra one?

thanks

 

With these two parts you will not have to cut any wires. It's a straight plug in type setup. You would wire your deck harness to the input of the OEM1 integration piece. Then you would wire the Metra harness to the output of the OEM1 piece. The PAC OEM1 also has output level sttings on it. This means that you can adjust how much signal you want your BOSE amp to boost.

I'm not at the shop right now to check prices but I'll check it out tomorrow morning for you. If you decide to purchase these parts from me I can also wire up the Metra harness to the OEM1. This way you would only have to add you deck harness to complete your install. Easy.

I'll PM you tomorrow morning with the info.

 

You do not need to cut and splice. You can use a T-Tap. I'm not sure if you've ever seen one. You should be able to buy these from ebay. Very inexpensive. Let me know if you can't find any.

 

Sorry... This whole time I meant "PAC OEM2". The difference is that the OEM2 is the newer version of the OEM1. RCA inputs and such.

 

wow your making this sound so easy. all I have to do is plug it in and thats it huh. sweet. look forward to your p.m.

p.s I understand you have the hottest looking double din kit for the CL/TL. I have the Alpine IVA-W200. might as well give me a price with this included if you could. thanks UNCALD 4 . appreciate it.

p.s.s should I purchase all these items from you, do I really need to have this installed professionally? I mean how can I mess it up? do I need a special tool to remove my factory bose system? thanks again.

 

Your INBOX is full.!!

 

crap. sorry about that man. I ll go clean it out now.

 

what do i need to do to the bose wiring to bypass it i dont car about cutting it up but i want it bypassed and need help any sugestions?

 

If you bypass the Bose amp your deck will not run the 2 ohm stock speakers. But, there are instructions in the DIY section.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, Uncald you seem very knowledgeble this might also benefit others, i went to a local audio shop and purchased a Quality line converter brand name is Perhipheral. I installed this for my aftermarket navigation system, although it sounds good and i did tap remote turn on to the OEM bose Amp thats located in the trunk. im getting alternator whine, i read that the two black wires on my LC need to be grounded, if Uncald or anyone else has input on this that would be greatly appreicated. Thanks

 

Would the navigation speach still be able to work through a new deck with this harness being used?

 

yes i understand the stock speakers will not work i already took them out i just want to know if i got this down right i conect the right rear+ with the other right rear + ect ect ect but then do i leave it unpluged or plug it back into the amp and if i run speaker wire to my deck and hook up all the correct wires it should work?

 

That's a great question. I've never had a chance to try it. I'm sure that there is a way to make it work. But without a test car I have no answer for you. Soddy.

Leave it unplugged @ the amp. You can wire up your deck using a harness (Metra 70-1721). Assuming you did a good job everything will work great.

 

sorry to hijack, but I also have a question

I currently have a Pioneer Z1 installed, and still have my stock speakers, sub and amp. The only thing is, the sub aint workin.

Now, what I'm plannin on doing is this, I got 4 brand new speakers, Kicker KS60 6" and also something called "Peripheral SVEN4" here's the link to it: http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...trSearch=SVEN4

What I want to do is install these new speakers, and keep my stock sub and amp.

Will it be possible with this new adapter that I got?

 

It's possible without that adapter.

I wanna see pics of your dashkit.

 

Correct, 2001 CL-S with Navi

Not a 360.2 amp, a 3sixty.2 signal processor, from there it will run to a Kicker ZR360 to run a 12" Kicker Solobaric D (The Old Round One, Yeah!), a kicker ZR 240 to run a set of old Diamond Hex components in the front (The original black Hex when Eton made them), and a ZR120 to run a pair of Daimond Hex Mids in the rear (Again Old Skool).

I see from your posts that you use a line driver before your amps and I think I may as well as people have noted siginificant sound improvement when using a line driver before the 3Sixty. Most of these posts have been on the bimmer forums though and they have a balanced signal running from the HU to the factory amp.

After all that my question is:

Rockford recommends installing the 3Sixty after the factory amp because it will equalize all the stuff Bose does and it is a supposidly better signal. My thinking is that it would be better to install before the Bose amp, possibly using a line driver to imprive the signal coming in to the 3Sixty.

Any thoughts you have on this would be appreciated.

 

If you're grabbing the signal before the amp then you really don't need any additional sound processor. Just a line driver.

Deck->line driver->amp->speaker.

Keep it simple.