sunny201

Okay so I got a Rockford Fosgate T20001BD amplifier. I wanted to know what subs would be good for it. Ive heard a lot of people talking about the Fi BTL, but I dont know how much space is actually needed for the enclosure. Id prefer 1 12" thats why I was looking into this. Or do you all recommend I stay with my 2 12" Alpine Type-Xs?

eggyhustles

port 1 type x @ 2 ohms

fi q would be nice too

sunny201

Well the rockford puts out 2000wrms @ 1 Ohm, and my 2 alpines are ported and sound great, but one of my subs fried because of trunk clutter. So I figured one sub with the same size box that can sound just as loud and I can keep stuff on one side of my trunk. So I need to get another sub to fill that spot, but I figured if Im gonna spend money to do that I can think of changing things a bit.

eggyhustles

size of the box? whats it tuned to?

sunny201

Its a prefabd Best Buy box. Thats why I was looking into changing my system around a bit. I know I wont build a box unless I get something different because it sounds good right now. Im just looking for better(louder)

eggyhustles

those would sound better/get louder in a properly built box. don't switch up your setup..you have a good amp and amazing subs..just installed wrong..

what comps/amp do u have? anything sound deadened?

sunny201

Everything else is stock, I just have my trunk dynamated. I guess Ill just buy another Type-X and then start working on the interior speakers.

eggyhustles

3 is too much..get a properly built ported box for the 2 you have now

dynamat the doors and start working on the interior speakers.

sunny201

No I had 2 and 1 of them fried so I was gonna change it up, but I guess Ill just replace the one that blew with a new one.

eggyhustles

Oh yeah that's right. honestly..1 would do well off 1500 watts..it'll be less work on your electrical too.

sunny201

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.. I guess I am better off just spending money on the interior speakers.

eggyhustles

yes do that.

mattastick

Cascade Designs Omega... 1 12" in a ~2 cubic foot box on that amp should sound amazing... http://www.cascade-designs.com/Omega.html <- there's the sub, and here's a link to a sale that the manufacturer is running right now: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ead.php?t=7013 If I had the money, I'd buy one...

sunny201

I fuckin hate AZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys make me go broke on here. This looks good, I like to abuse my ears daily and actually do use my system at ~max power. This is a good daily driver sub right?, because it will be blasted daily.

mattastick

In short:

For more info, check here: http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...ead.php?t=3266

eggyhustles

he has good subs now, i wouldnt buy new ones.

mattastick

he has 1 good sub... He said the other one crapped out...

Personally, I'd sell your Type X (even though it is a great sub, and I have nothing against it) and buy something like the Omega, or another sub designed to handle all of the punishment that amp is going to dish out...


Side note to the OP, I hope you have substantial electrical upgrades done, because Rockford amps are pretty hungry...

sunny201

I already have a buyer for the Type-X and Im basically loosing only $40 from when I bought it, so I dont really mind because I got what I wanted out of it.

I have 2 Optima Yellow Tops (1 in the trunk), 0 gauge wires, and Im gonna do the big 3 and maybe a cap?

mattastick

Your electrical looks pretty solid, but instead of a cap, I'd look into a dedicated car audio battery. Here's why: The yellow tops are deep cycle. This means that they're good for long periods of time, but they don't work well for short bursts of current draw. A battery designed for car audio (stinger, powermaster, kinetik, batcap, etc.) will discharge very quickly for those bursts when your amp needs more current. You might even consider selling the YT's and getting only car audio batts, but that's completely up to you...

eggyhustles

kinetik 2400 in the back would suit well. that cascade sub is

i'd also look into the fi bl, sundown nightshade, ssa icon, re xxx, hdc3.

mattastick

I like the way you think eggy... I looked at an HDC3, but I can't properly power it... The 2400 would do very well in the back with the yellow tops...

eggyhustles

yeah i dont think a 2400 would fit upfront..maybe a 1400

mattastick

I'm pretty sure that I can fit a 2000 in the front of my 1st gen CL, but that's pushing it...


With a rough guess as to how much power that amp actually puts out (2400rms) Kinetik suggests a 1400 (or larger) in the front and a 2400 in the back, right by the amp... If you've got the cash, that's what I'd do... I'd also do multiple runs of power wire to the rear batt... Do 2 runs of 1/0 wire, fuse them both at each end, and connect the batts in parallel... Should be more than enough current for the RF20001...

eggyhustles

i'd do that too

sunny201

$500 is out of my budget at the moment to spend on a battery, but its something I def gotta look into. Im gonna find someone to buy my second yellow top so I can get one of those kinetik batteries, they seem reallyyy good.

Thanks for all they help guys, Im ordering my CD Omega this week, but now the question is, 12" or 15" lol.
12" needs about 2-3ft^3 and the 15" needs 4-5ft^3?? I dont want to take up the whole trunk in my car.. And then whats a good enclosure designer/calculator that I can use to help me build my box?? Theres a few that I found using google, but what would yous recommend?

mattastick

Yeah, Kinetiks are solid. I have an HC600 and Powermaster D5100R, and love them both, but I'd rather have a larger single battery.

Personally, I'd do 1 12" Omega. You should be pretty surprised at how much bass 1 12 puts out... All you need is a good box. As for enclosure designer, I use RE's Enclosure calculator. I don't have a link right now because I'm at work, but I was using it last night on my laptop. I'll post it when I get home. I've designed a couple of boxes using that software, including one for on1wheel01, who's a fellow 1st gen owner. If you shoot me some external dimensions, I can get something put together for you for at least a rough start. I dunno if I'll be able to do it tonight since I'm building a box for my buddy's jeep, but I'll get on it as soon as I get a chance...

TypeSinNC

iTrader: (2)

Try to find a '04-'05 RE XXX...I had one in my maxima on my T20001bd. It has to be one of my favorite subs of all time. Do you have the birth sheet for that amp? My 20001bd actually put out around 2400w @ 1ohm. I can probably get you some enclosure plans, when you decide on a sub.

I really haven't done much research on our TLs...how do you have your amps hooked up? I'm sure you are using some kind of LOC.

sunny201

I dont have the birth sheet bc I got the amp used. Is there anyway I can find out myself what it is?

Enclosure wise, the outer dimensions of my current setup is 35wide x 14high x 12top, 17bottom Depth.

I need help with the tuning fq. I dont really know that much about it and what frequency it should be.

I have mine set up with a LOC, and connected from the rear sub signal.

mattastick

Are you going to be running a 12?

sunny201

you mean 12" sub? yea, just one though

mattastick

The box you're going to want to shoot for is 2.4 ft^3 tuned to 34Hz with at least 37.5"^2 of port area. I'll try to get some time to play around with stuff tonight, but I have to work on a box for a friend...

mattastick

Here's RE's Enclosure Calculator: http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

I got roughly the right box size, and if you want, I can PM you the specifics...

sunny201

Thanks alot, that would be great if you can do that for me

mattastick

I'll put everything together for you when I get home, after I finish building the box for my buddy. All I have to do is cut the side pieces and rout the holes for the subs...

sunny201

No worries, I have to wait for the sub to get in anyway.

mattastick

Ok, here's what I've come up with:


I can build a solid model to show you what you're going to want to do that the RE Calculator doesn't show you. For example, you're going to want to put 45's in all of the corners, like this:

sunny201

Thats sweet. I just have one question, would it matter if I had the slant in the back instead of the front? Or what if I just had no slant at all then.
And is it safe to screw the amp to the back of the box? I always here mixed opinions on that.

mattastick

Slanting to the back changes a lot of things. I was actually thinking about that this morning... For 1, the port. your port volume (along with box volume and a host of other factors) determines tuning. if you change to slant in the back, you're going to add port volume lowering your tuning. The most concerning thing, though, is airflow. when you the slant in the back, you're forcing air to make a crazy turn in the back corner of the box. If you did a square box (with no slant) you'd need to be at least 14" deep. That's where mine's at right now (34x16.5x14) and it would work for an omega, but it's a little small... My box is just over 2 cubes after all is said and done with, tuned to ~33Hz.

As for screwing the amp to the box, it's your call. I don't like it, but some people swear by it. I don't like it because of the flexing in the box. It "shakes" the amp which can be very bad for it... I'd say do something custom with it. I'd show you pics of what I'm doing, but I'm at work and I don't want to ruin the surprise...

eggyhustles

box looks good..

you guys should visit the bloodbath in here

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/more-bass-more-bass-teaser-697942/

i don't even like going in that section anymore lol

mattastick

Man eggy, you sure got told... Too bad you're right... you should check out caraudioclassifieds.org... My username's 98AckCL23. You'll fit right in...