Amp Problem
Amp Problem
i just installed my L7 and kenwood amp, and its been killing my battery. I thought it was a bad ground connection becasue it only dies if it sits over night, so its not that big of a draw. when i unplug the amp, it doesnt die. Anyone know what it could be?
Originally Posted by uncald4
The amp is not hooked up right. Or your connection at the battery is very loose.
well thats defiantely not the problem. my battery still dies when my amp is hooked up. Anyone know what could be wrong. My ground is good, my battery cables are tight, and all fuses are good.?
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Originally Posted by spencer_homer
well thats defiantely not the problem. my battery still dies when my amp is hooked up. Anyone know what could be wrong. My ground is good, my battery cables are tight, and all fuses are good.?
your suppose to wire the remote wire to the ciggarite thingy or something that turns on wehn you turn on your car.
i believe that you tapped the remote wire into a wrong line.
what i did wiht my TSX is that i tapped the ignition wire into one of the wires that is connected to the ignition.
Last edited by daicacharco; Apr 23, 2007 at 09:08 PM.
Originally Posted by spencer_homer
u mean like mix them up?
spencer homer,
Do you have a digital multi meter (dmm) or ammeter?
If so, there's a few things to measure. The current draw, input voltage (battery) at the amplifier, and Remote ON voltage in the following states
1) the car is off
2)ACC is on, stereo off
3)ACC is on, Stereo ON
If you're blowing fuses then thats a big indicator that an excessive amount of current is being drawn.
The current draw can be measured by doing the following. Disconnect the battery to amplifier connection (positive side). Connect the battery side of the wire to the DMM's amps(current) + input (designated by red color) and connect another wire from the amplifier batt+ to the DMM's amp - input. Now the DMM should be connected in series with the battery line to the amplifier.
BATT (+)->DMM(amp +)->DMM(amp -)->AMPLIFIER (BATT+)
How to interprete?...
The remote ON voltage should be near 0V in states 1 & 2 and close 12v in state 3.
(look at your amp's spec to find out what the appropriate remote on and off voltages are)
If you see current when the car is off (0.1 Amps and higher), that could be bad sign. Verify the remote ON voltage is close to zero. If the remote ON is high (close to battery voltage ~12V), the your remote signal is improperly high. If the remote on is low (~0V), then your amp seems like the problem.
What current do you see when the amp is operating 'normally' (radio on, but zero volume? if this is high, then again this could be another sign that your amp is bad OR is just really power inefficient.
Good luck
Do you have a digital multi meter (dmm) or ammeter?
If so, there's a few things to measure. The current draw, input voltage (battery) at the amplifier, and Remote ON voltage in the following states
1) the car is off
2)ACC is on, stereo off
3)ACC is on, Stereo ON
If you're blowing fuses then thats a big indicator that an excessive amount of current is being drawn.
The current draw can be measured by doing the following. Disconnect the battery to amplifier connection (positive side). Connect the battery side of the wire to the DMM's amps(current) + input (designated by red color) and connect another wire from the amplifier batt+ to the DMM's amp - input. Now the DMM should be connected in series with the battery line to the amplifier.
BATT (+)->DMM(amp +)->DMM(amp -)->AMPLIFIER (BATT+)
How to interprete?...
The remote ON voltage should be near 0V in states 1 & 2 and close 12v in state 3.
(look at your amp's spec to find out what the appropriate remote on and off voltages are)
If you see current when the car is off (0.1 Amps and higher), that could be bad sign. Verify the remote ON voltage is close to zero. If the remote ON is high (close to battery voltage ~12V), the your remote signal is improperly high. If the remote on is low (~0V), then your amp seems like the problem.
What current do you see when the amp is operating 'normally' (radio on, but zero volume? if this is high, then again this could be another sign that your amp is bad OR is just really power inefficient.
Good luck
the amp could still being pulling current from the battery when 'off'. if your battery is weak/old, then that might just be enough to kill it.
your sound system may be fine, but just need a new battery.
if you have a voltmeter, you could check the battery voltage when
1) car is off
2) car starting
3) car on
below 12V in state 1 is getting weak. If in state 2 its below 10V, then you may need a new batt.
state 3 shows the alternator voltage is working properly. probably close to 14V. If this is low, then your alternator is not charging your batt properly.
your sound system may be fine, but just need a new battery.
if you have a voltmeter, you could check the battery voltage when
1) car is off
2) car starting
3) car on
below 12V in state 1 is getting weak. If in state 2 its below 10V, then you may need a new batt.
state 3 shows the alternator voltage is working properly. probably close to 14V. If this is low, then your alternator is not charging your batt properly.
why don't you go check out the alternator and see if its not charging the battery enough when the car is on....if its not charging the battery completely then it could explain why the car is dying...as for the amp pulling the power...no amp should do that useless the amp is staying on once the car is off.....check all your wires and see if something is loose......other than that......
Originally Posted by joerockt
Well, its a good thing you double-checked 

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