Aftermarked Amp With Stock Wiring
Famous last words "Uh, which wire should I cut?"
I've connected my amp to the stock wiring, but I have a few questions...first does it matter if you use the wires off of the 12 pin connector or the 14 pin connector? On the 12 pin connector there it is labled cavity 7&8 (BLU/GRN & ORN/BLU) Equalizer unit BASS + & - . On the 14 pin connector there are two sets of BLU/GRN and ORN/BLU wires, cavities 3&5 are BLU/GRN labled Stereo amplifier (BASS +) and Audio Unit (Right output), and cavities 10&12 are ORN/BLU, one labled Stereo amplifier (BASS -) and the other Audio Unit (common output). (to clarify what I am talking about see http://users.adelphia.net/~krisnlore...o/schframe.htm take a look at the last diagram on the bottom)
So which ones should I use??? I am pretty sure it would not be cavities 5 & 12 on the 14 pin connector, but does it make a difference if I use the Equalizer unit (BASS) on the 12 pin vs. the Stereo Amplifer (BASS) on the 14 pin connector?
The reason I ask is because I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 connected to a Kenwood Amp that gets its input from the stock line outs (which ones, I dont remember). A buddy of mine has a similar set up, but he has an Orion NTense 10" connected to the same amp, but his input is comming from an aftermarket head unit.
Thanks for everyone's help in advance.
So which ones should I use??? I am pretty sure it would not be cavities 5 & 12 on the 14 pin connector, but does it make a difference if I use the Equalizer unit (BASS) on the 12 pin vs. the Stereo Amplifer (BASS) on the 14 pin connector?
The reason I ask is because I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 connected to a Kenwood Amp that gets its input from the stock line outs (which ones, I dont remember). A buddy of mine has a similar set up, but he has an Orion NTense 10" connected to the same amp, but his input is comming from an aftermarket head unit.
Thanks for everyone's help in advance.
splitz,
I assume all you are doing is trying to get a line level signal for the sub. If that is the case, then you will want to use the two shielded wires that are in a brown sheathing(BLU/GRN & ORN/BLU) leading to the 12pin connector on the stock sub amp. The stock sub amp is located behind the rear seat back on the pax side. It's about the size of a cigarrette pack.
Basically, take the 14pin connector out of your mind, that one is located physically on the EQ unit hidden up behind the Head unit, which does you no good.
Think of it this way, the two connectors have the same wire harness going between them but Bose decided on a funky way of labeling them. If you study the schematics for a while and try to trace the wires in between it starts to make sense, except for one thing, You will find that a couple of the wires magically change colors between the connectors. That's just the way they did it.
Like I said before, the two sheilded wires in a brown casing are the one you want.
Have fun
Iggy
I assume all you are doing is trying to get a line level signal for the sub. If that is the case, then you will want to use the two shielded wires that are in a brown sheathing(BLU/GRN & ORN/BLU) leading to the 12pin connector on the stock sub amp. The stock sub amp is located behind the rear seat back on the pax side. It's about the size of a cigarrette pack.
Basically, take the 14pin connector out of your mind, that one is located physically on the EQ unit hidden up behind the Head unit, which does you no good.
Think of it this way, the two connectors have the same wire harness going between them but Bose decided on a funky way of labeling them. If you study the schematics for a while and try to trace the wires in between it starts to make sense, except for one thing, You will find that a couple of the wires magically change colors between the connectors. That's just the way they did it.
Like I said before, the two sheilded wires in a brown casing are the one you want.
Have fun
Iggy
Iggy,
Thanks, connected it last year and didnt remember exactly what I did, but it sounds like I did it right...too bad I was hoping I was wrong cuz something just isnt right with the system vs. my friends.
Also a quick thanks for all of the other info you've posted, I'm waiting for magiviper to re-host the pdf you all created. I'm going to do the EQ bypass as soon as its up.
Laterz,
Splitz
Thanks, connected it last year and didnt remember exactly what I did, but it sounds like I did it right...too bad I was hoping I was wrong cuz something just isnt right with the system vs. my friends.
Also a quick thanks for all of the other info you've posted, I'm waiting for magiviper to re-host the pdf you all created. I'm going to do the EQ bypass as soon as its up.
Laterz,
Splitz
The one that was posted at http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...0&pagenumber=1
magiviper posted a reply asking you for it...I guess it might be lost and gone forever if you dont have it. If it doesnt turn up, I can probably create one from all of the info posted and what I end up doing in the next few weeks.
magiviper posted a reply asking you for it...I guess it might be lost and gone forever if you dont have it. If it doesnt turn up, I can probably create one from all of the info posted and what I end up doing in the next few weeks.
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