After Market Stereo Cutting out
#41
Check all wiring and connections first, then start swapping things with known good ones till you single the problem out.
Nobody knows of a decent LOC because as said they are all crap and you shouldn't be running one.
Nobody knows of a decent LOC because as said they are all crap and you shouldn't be running one.
#42
Drifting
how is change your box to a ported one
Get a HU
And all LOC are crap
A solution
One of my components is broken I belive it is the the LOC is that what you think and if no then what do you think if yes then do you know who makes a decent one and what kind I should B running
Get a HU
And all LOC are crap
A solution
One of my components is broken I belive it is the the LOC is that what you think and if no then what do you think if yes then do you know who makes a decent one and what kind I should B running
maybe get an amp with speaker level inputs?
the HU would solve the problem if your LOC is bad, since you wouldn't need one, and that would give you much cleaner signal to your amps...
Ported box would save you space and simplify your system so you're not running 2 sizes of subs and 2 sub amps...
#43
To many cars in my garage
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Thats it Im swapping the LOC (there $15)
Getting an amp with speaker level inputs is your first good idea but im not changing my amps My wife would kill me!!
I would like a cleaner signal you got me there but decks in 2G CLs look like shit !!!!!!!!!
Oh and I dont want to simplyfy my system I like it the way it is
Getting an amp with speaker level inputs is your first good idea but im not changing my amps My wife would kill me!!
I would like a cleaner signal you got me there but decks in 2G CLs look like shit !!!!!!!!!
Oh and I dont want to simplyfy my system I like it the way it is
#44
Drifting
Looks just fine to me:
and $15 every couple months or whatever is going to add up to a new amp mighty quick... That's why I'd sell all that stuff and get a deck, good amp, good single sub, and build a good ported box, and be done with it... It'll run like a champ and give you similar results to what you have now... Again, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation...
and $15 every couple months or whatever is going to add up to a new amp mighty quick... That's why I'd sell all that stuff and get a deck, good amp, good single sub, and build a good ported box, and be done with it... It'll run like a champ and give you similar results to what you have now... Again, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation...
#46
To many cars in my garage
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I have a
05 magnum RT
03 Rav 4
88 300 zx tt
80 trans am indy pace car
and my other cars dont look like this one if the sytling fits the car I do it and you cant say it doesnt fit besides what are you driving
#47
To many cars in my garage
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Looks just fine to me:
and $15 every couple months or whatever is going to add up to a new amp mighty quick... That's why I'd sell all that stuff and get a deck, good amp, good single sub, and build a good ported box, and be done with it... It'll run like a champ and give you similar results to what you have now... Again, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation...
and $15 every couple months or whatever is going to add up to a new amp mighty quick... That's why I'd sell all that stuff and get a deck, good amp, good single sub, and build a good ported box, and be done with it... It'll run like a champ and give you similar results to what you have now... Again, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation...
I like the nice clean look of stock but I have been looking into a 7" touch screen HU but the black finish does not match and I think it would drive me crazy
Last edited by MrFluffy; 03-15-2009 at 01:43 AM.
#48
I have a 88 Chevy K5 Blazer (4wd) which is about to have a Kicker CVR 8" in a 4th order installed, a 92 Chevy Ex Cab K1500 (4wd) with my SPL setup, 2004 Nissan 350Z (all stock) (6sp manual) which is getting a SQ setup (only need a h/u) because the factory BOSE blows, and a 2000 Kawasaki ZX6R.
#53
To many cars in my garage
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Me personally I like all kinds of cars ford toyota honda dodge whatever I can apperciate the engineering of any car I dont want to put labels on them
When some one takes the effort to do something on there car I apperciat that as well but even more I dont put them down and call them ricers ( it is as hard two replace the heads on a 63 plymouth fury as it is to upgrade the turbo on a 88 300zx I know ive done both) so apperciate peoples work and dont judge some one you dont know
When some one takes the effort to do something on there car I apperciat that as well but even more I dont put them down and call them ricers ( it is as hard two replace the heads on a 63 plymouth fury as it is to upgrade the turbo on a 88 300zx I know ive done both) so apperciate peoples work and dont judge some one you dont know
#55
To many cars in my garage
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I found the solution to the problem of LOC for acuras so you wont fry the LOC if anyone is interested I posted on a audio forum and this is what I got
After the amps shut off, check the LOC for excess heat. My guess it will be pretty hot and just shuts down to cool.
The Bose package requires a high voltage type LOC that can handle like 50 watts per channel or more. If using a non-Bose LOC, it may not handle that extra power and shut down. Eventually, it will fry this LOC.
As noted, these amps do not have high signal, (Speaker level) inputs. They are only RCA's and a line level up to 4 volts is the max input I believe.
One thing that might work very well here is to tap off your rear speakers and use a high voltage LOC to obtain the correct voltage range for your amp RCA's. Let's have a look as I think Dave Navone makes high/low converters for Bose systems. Yep, here's a look at what Navone Engineering offers:
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7
After the amps shut off, check the LOC for excess heat. My guess it will be pretty hot and just shuts down to cool.
The Bose package requires a high voltage type LOC that can handle like 50 watts per channel or more. If using a non-Bose LOC, it may not handle that extra power and shut down. Eventually, it will fry this LOC.
As noted, these amps do not have high signal, (Speaker level) inputs. They are only RCA's and a line level up to 4 volts is the max input I believe.
One thing that might work very well here is to tap off your rear speakers and use a high voltage LOC to obtain the correct voltage range for your amp RCA's. Let's have a look as I think Dave Navone makes high/low converters for Bose systems. Yep, here's a look at what Navone Engineering offers:
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7
#56
Drifting
Wait, are you tapping the speaker wires before or after the factory amp? This could significantly effect the power that's going through the LOC... Hopefully you're tapping your signal before your factory amp. If you tap after the amp, what he said is completely true...
Sorry this took so long, I don't have a factory amp, and I'm not 100% familiar with vehicles that do. I always assume they're optional, and unless stated, cars don't have them...
Sorry this took so long, I don't have a factory amp, and I'm not 100% familiar with vehicles that do. I always assume they're optional, and unless stated, cars don't have them...
#57
To many cars in my garage
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Exuses Exuses J/K
no I thought it was clear that it was after. I know it makes no sense but when I first installed it, just 2 10s it worked fine and had for a while so figured fine if it works I dont have to splice at the back of the deck and run RCAs all the way up from there
So it was a quick thing to do but I just got lazy and now im thinking he gave me a good solution with changing the least amount of products and the LOC looks good as well so im going with this.
I think im re doing my system in the summer again to all fiber glass and alot more trunk space( Im going to go for a more OEM look) Im good with fiber glass boxes but not so good with porting them I was thinking of porting the 2 10s or the 2 12s not sure yet got any tips
no I thought it was clear that it was after. I know it makes no sense but when I first installed it, just 2 10s it worked fine and had for a while so figured fine if it works I dont have to splice at the back of the deck and run RCAs all the way up from there
So it was a quick thing to do but I just got lazy and now im thinking he gave me a good solution with changing the least amount of products and the LOC looks good as well so im going with this.
I think im re doing my system in the summer again to all fiber glass and alot more trunk space( Im going to go for a more OEM look) Im good with fiber glass boxes but not so good with porting them I was thinking of porting the 2 10s or the 2 12s not sure yet got any tips
#58
Drifting
I'd do a single 10 or 12 (your choice) ported. look into brands such as Ascendant Audio, Digital Designs, Revolution Design, Resonant Engineering, etc. Most people have not heard of these brands, but they make awesome stuff. Right now, I'm running a single RD Alpha 12 ported, and it's ungodly loud (when I want it to be) but I can turn it down and listen to country and it sounds great... If you want some good suggestions and a ton of helpful info, go to www.caraudioclassifieds.org. It's a very helpful forum, and they will point you in the right direction...
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