Check all wiring and connections first, then start swapping things with known good ones till you single the problem out.

Nobody knows of a decent LOC because as said they are all crap and you shouldn't be running one.

 

you're bitching about your LOC going bad, and everyone says they're having problems with them, so why do you want to buy another one? that logic doesn't make sense to me...

maybe get an amp with speaker level inputs?

the HU would solve the problem if your LOC is bad, since you wouldn't need one, and that would give you much cleaner signal to your amps...

Ported box would save you space and simplify your system so you're not running 2 sizes of subs and 2 sub amps...

 

Thats it Im swapping the LOC (there $15)

Getting an amp with speaker level inputs is your first good idea but im not changing my amps My wife would kill me!!

I would like a cleaner signal you got me there but decks in 2G CLs look like shit !!!!!!!!!

Oh and I dont want to simplyfy my system I like it the way it is

 

Looks just fine to me:




and $15 every couple months or whatever is going to add up to a new amp mighty quick... That's why I'd sell all that stuff and get a deck, good amp, good single sub, and build a good ported box, and be done with it... It'll run like a champ and give you similar results to what you have now... Again, this is just what I'd do if I were in your situation...

 

But then he would lose his ricer lights and we cant do that or it will be slow.

 

dude this is one of my car it may be a ricer to you but it fits the style

I have a

05 magnum RT
03 Rav 4
88 300 zx tt
80 trans am indy pace car

and my other cars dont look like this one if the sytling fits the car I do it and you cant say it doesnt fit besides what are you driving

 

This is where we differ I dont like it no offence

I like the nice clean look of stock but I have been looking into a 7" touch screen HU but the black finish does not match and I think it would drive me crazy

 

I have a 88 Chevy K5 Blazer (4wd) which is about to have a Kicker CVR 8" in a 4th order installed, a 92 Chevy Ex Cab K1500 (4wd) with my SPL setup, 2004 Nissan 350Z (all stock) (6sp manual) which is getting a SQ setup (only need a h/u) because the factory BOSE blows, and a 2000 Kawasaki ZX6R.

 

White trash

 

AHAHAHAHAHA, nice. Just because I have older 4wd vehicles you assume I am white?

I like you. You are fun.

 

I called your cars white trash

 

You're just mad because I'm right and in about a week the Z is going to have better SQ than your car, and the 92 is far louder than your car.

 

Me personally I like all kinds of cars ford toyota honda dodge whatever I can apperciate the engineering of any car I dont want to put labels on them

When some one takes the effort to do something on there car I apperciat that as well but even more I dont put them down and call them ricers ( it is as hard two replace the heads on a 63 plymouth fury as it is to upgrade the turbo on a 88 300zx I know ive done both) so apperciate peoples work and dont judge some one you dont know

 

Dont care like I siad I love my setup and wouldnt change it for the world

But send me some pics I would love to see it

 

I found the solution to the problem of LOC for acuras so you wont fry the LOC if anyone is interested I posted on a audio forum and this is what I got

After the amps shut off, check the LOC for excess heat. My guess it will be pretty hot and just shuts down to cool.

The Bose package requires a high voltage type LOC that can handle like 50 watts per channel or more. If using a non-Bose LOC, it may not handle that extra power and shut down. Eventually, it will fry this LOC.

As noted, these amps do not have high signal, (Speaker level) inputs. They are only RCA's and a line level up to 4 volts is the max input I believe.

One thing that might work very well here is to tap off your rear speakers and use a high voltage LOC to obtain the correct voltage range for your amp RCA's. Let's have a look as I think Dave Navone makes high/low converters for Bose systems. Yep, here's a look at what Navone Engineering offers:

http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7

 

Wait, are you tapping the speaker wires before or after the factory amp? This could significantly effect the power that's going through the LOC... Hopefully you're tapping your signal before your factory amp. If you tap after the amp, what he said is completely true...

Sorry this took so long, I don't have a factory amp, and I'm not 100% familiar with vehicles that do. I always assume they're optional, and unless stated, cars don't have them...

 

Exuses Exuses J/K

no I thought it was clear that it was after. I know it makes no sense but when I first installed it, just 2 10s it worked fine and had for a while so figured fine if it works I dont have to splice at the back of the deck and run RCAs all the way up from there

So it was a quick thing to do but I just got lazy and now im thinking he gave me a good solution with changing the least amount of products and the LOC looks good as well so im going with this.

I think im re doing my system in the summer again to all fiber glass and alot more trunk space( Im going to go for a more OEM look) Im good with fiber glass boxes but not so good with porting them I was thinking of porting the 2 10s or the 2 12s not sure yet got any tips

 

I'd do a single 10 or 12 (your choice) ported. look into brands such as Ascendant Audio, Digital Designs, Revolution Design, Resonant Engineering, etc. Most people have not heard of these brands, but they make awesome stuff. Right now, I'm running a single RD Alpha 12 ported, and it's ungodly loud (when I want it to be) but I can turn it down and listen to country and it sounds great... If you want some good suggestions and a ton of helpful info, go to www.caraudioclassifieds.org. It's a very helpful forum, and they will point you in the right direction...

 

thanks for the info you have been very helpful at the end of this forum ( not at the begining) but thanks