After Market Stereo Cutting out
03-13-2009, 06:54 PM
#1
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After Market Stereo Cutting out
Liek the title says my Subs are cutting out after about a minute. I have 2 amps and 4 subs and the amps stay on but no sound
I think its the LOC but I would like some varification on this before I buy A new one
I think its the LOC but I would like some varification on this before I buy A new one
03-13-2009, 07:20 PM
#3
To many cars in my garage
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Got pics of it not finished yet thou
thanks I think im gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new set,
unless any one has any other ideas
thanks I think im gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new set,
unless any one has any other ideas
03-13-2009, 08:25 PM
#5
Right now I'm only running one to my sub amp. I'm running input from the left and the right speaker. axxess ADCT2 2 channel.And its held up the best out of all the others.If I was running two amps I would either install 2,or get a 4channel loc. I dont think I would run Y rca's from 1, 2 channel,because you would be spilting the signal.And the signal might be to low for the amps. amps output might be low and distorted.or cut off.
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03-13-2009, 08:46 PM
#10
my first one lasted about 2 months.The second one I was to lazy to drive far to get one a didnt want to wait to order one.so stupid me went to walmart right down the street and got one.That thing was a piece.It lasted 2, 1/2hour rides and was smoked.you could've just got a bad one.good thing there pretty cheap.
03-13-2009, 09:06 PM
#13
I'm definitly not a stereo installation master but basically you are running 4 channels. If the Y cables work then thats less wiring.your trunk install is looking good.Is your alt stock?did you do the big 3? and are your subs in ported enclosures.
03-13-2009, 09:08 PM
#14
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I hate ported Subs I didnt do the big three I may do it this summer but I think im gonna wait till everything goes what kind of alternator are you running
03-13-2009, 09:12 PM
#15
the first one I had was 60w per channel .some brand made by RF.And that one didnt blow from useing it .it came off the deck,hung on one of my subs and got beat to death.80 per channel walmart.JUNK and I think the one I have in now is either 60/80w per channel.At lest 60w per ch.
03-13-2009, 09:19 PM
#16
my alt is stock right now but I've been looking into somthing bigger.since I installed my pulleys theres been a big difference.I didnt think so at first.but when my amp is banging my cap goes 10-11v and dont sound as powerful as it did before.under half vol sounds great over that everythings draining.
03-13-2009, 09:24 PM
#17
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Im still hitting 12+ volts at idol so Im gonna keep it stock for now, maybe put a drie cell battery in because I need to replace a battery on my 88 300zx so ill put the CL battery in that
03-13-2009, 10:21 PM
#19
It looks like you don't have an aftermarket head unit, correct? In my experience line out converters are usually just a half-ass solution.... best bet is to go with an EQ. An aftermarket headunit will usually do the trick though....
Im still accepting ideas on why this thing is cutting out
03-14-2009, 12:00 AM
#22
Drifting
If you're running a true RF 3000-1 amp, there's no way you're voltage is that high... With the electrical you have, you'd be right around 6v, which would blow your amp... By the time your voltage got that low, your 4 subs would be absolutely roasted (P1's are rated at what? 100rms, and the P2's are 250rms)... Also, that RF amp alone would draw enough current to absolutely kill your alternator unless you have a bank of batteries. Also, the RF 3000-1 would be larger than either of the amps shown in your install...
Now, what you actually have are a couple of RF P300-1 amps. Since this is true, the way you should wire up the RCA's on these subs is to wire from the LOC (if you want to continue using one after having all this trouble with them) into one of the amps. Then use the pass-through RCA outs on that amp, and wire from there to the RCA in's on the 2nd amp. This is what those RCA outs are designed for... This should also help with your LOC problem...
You also might want to consider getting bigger amps for those subs, as the P300-1 is maybe enough for the P1's... Especially since you're getting low amounts of signal from the LOC, I'd definitely look into something with more power. Also, look at RMS numbers, not max numbers. RMS is what actually matters, not max...
Now, what you actually have are a couple of RF P300-1 amps. Since this is true, the way you should wire up the RCA's on these subs is to wire from the LOC (if you want to continue using one after having all this trouble with them) into one of the amps. Then use the pass-through RCA outs on that amp, and wire from there to the RCA in's on the 2nd amp. This is what those RCA outs are designed for... This should also help with your LOC problem...
You also might want to consider getting bigger amps for those subs, as the P300-1 is maybe enough for the P1's... Especially since you're getting low amounts of signal from the LOC, I'd definitely look into something with more power. Also, look at RMS numbers, not max numbers. RMS is what actually matters, not max...
03-14-2009, 12:37 AM
#24
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If you're running a true RF 3000-1 amp, there's no way you're voltage is that high... With the electrical you have, you'd be right around 6v, which would blow your amp... By the time your voltage got that low, your 4 subs would be absolutely roasted (P1's are rated at what? 100rms, and the P2's are 250rms)... Also, that RF amp alone would draw enough current to absolutely kill your alternator unless you have a bank of batteries. Also, the RF 3000-1 would be larger than either of the amps shown in your install...
Now, what you actually have are a couple of RF P300-1 amps. Since this is true, the way you should wire up the RCA's on these subs is to wire from the LOC (if you want to continue using one after having all this trouble with them) into one of the amps. Then use the pass-through RCA outs on that amp, and wire from there to the RCA in's on the 2nd amp. This is what those RCA outs are designed for... This should also help with your LOC problem...
You also might want to consider getting bigger amps for those subs, as the P300-1 is maybe enough for the P1's... Especially since you're getting low amounts of signal from the LOC, I'd definitely look into something with more power. Also, look at RMS numbers, not max numbers. RMS is what actually matters, not max...
Now, what you actually have are a couple of RF P300-1 amps. Since this is true, the way you should wire up the RCA's on these subs is to wire from the LOC (if you want to continue using one after having all this trouble with them) into one of the amps. Then use the pass-through RCA outs on that amp, and wire from there to the RCA in's on the 2nd amp. This is what those RCA outs are designed for... This should also help with your LOC problem...
You also might want to consider getting bigger amps for those subs, as the P300-1 is maybe enough for the P1's... Especially since you're getting low amounts of signal from the LOC, I'd definitely look into something with more power. Also, look at RMS numbers, not max numbers. RMS is what actually matters, not max...
-Sorry about the signature but I added an extra "0"
-my clarion amp is getting fixed right now its going to run the 12s once its fixed
-the rca are throught one of the pass through
- thanks for the dis I know what to look at when rating an amp
- your post was no help just a rant to try to show how smart you are
03-14-2009, 10:39 AM
#29
Drifting
-Sorry about the signature but I added an extra "0"
-my clarion amp is getting fixed right now its going to run the 12s once its fixed
-the rca are throught one of the pass through
- thanks for the dis I know what to look at when rating an amp
- your post was no help just a rant to try to show how smart you are
-my clarion amp is getting fixed right now its going to run the 12s once its fixed
-the rca are throught one of the pass through
- thanks for the dis I know what to look at when rating an amp
- your post was no help just a rant to try to show how smart you are
I know you said you hated ported boxes, but if I had to guess, it'd be because you've only used pre-fab boxes which suck and are not meant for any certain driver. When you design and build a box that's right for the sub you're using, they sound 10 times better. Plus when it's tuned low, you still get most of the response that you would from a sealed box, and it gets a ton louder...
Another thing a single sub setup would give you: trunkspace. While this may not be important to you, as it seems seeing your current setup, but it's nice to have...
As for your LOC problem, if you still want to use one, go buy a good one. Not some POS from Walmart. That's why they keep breaking on you. You get what you pay for...
03-14-2009, 11:06 AM
#30
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My system sounds great the way it is actually sounds better than alot of people 4 subs this was not my question anways and I hate how ported boxes sound all my boxes are built to perfect spec ive been building boxes for a long time.
I never siad it was a cheap LOC unless stinger is cheap because thats what I got
I never siad it was a cheap LOC unless stinger is cheap because thats what I got
03-14-2009, 08:08 PM
#32
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Ported boxes are nice one of my friend has two KICKER competition subs in ported boxes and they sound really good
As for saying SQ is better I differ on that point but not fully because his SQ is great but I really like the way mine sound. The way I built my boxes is the way I love the sound I could of built them ported and had diiferent sound but I love the specs I got and I know your gonna says its better to port them etc. My opinion on this is mine is perfect 4 me
03-14-2009, 08:51 PM
#33
4 12's 1600w rms amp
Last edited by richardparker; 03-14-2009 at 08:53 PM.
03-14-2009, 10:48 PM
#34
Drifting
Ok guys, here's some pics from a pure SQ build... And yes, it's ported...
And in case you're wondering, it's for an old RF HX2 being fed by a Hifonics Titan TXI1508... Yes, 1500w for sq... And I can guarantee that this box will sound ungodly better than the 4 12's sealed... the guy that box is for wants pure sq... If it get's loud, that's just a plus...
And in case you're wondering, it's for an old RF HX2 being fed by a Hifonics Titan TXI1508... Yes, 1500w for sq... And I can guarantee that this box will sound ungodly better than the 4 12's sealed... the guy that box is for wants pure sq... If it get's loud, that's just a plus...
03-14-2009, 10:57 PM
#35
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Ported can beat a sealed box in SQ any day. You just have to know what you are doing with the design. And the stupid myths that sealed is better for punchy bass, or 10"s are for tight bass and 18"s are for lows only is a crock of shit. Two 8"s can be louder than probably anyone on here, and an 18" can hit 75hz just as fast as your 12 in a sealed box.
If you are wanting SQ I wouldn't go with Kicker.... And especially Pioneer.
Ever think about other variations of ported boxes, like horns, bandpass, t-lines, ABC etc...?
If you are wanting SQ I wouldn't go with Kicker.... And especially Pioneer.
Ever think about other variations of ported boxes, like horns, bandpass, t-lines, ABC etc...?
03-14-2009, 11:29 PM
#36
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You guys are getting carried away I want Ideas on how to fix my sound system, with out changing everything in it because I like it exactly the way it is(Besides it cutting out). I never siad that ported boxes are the crapiest boxes the only thing siad was for my application I most enjoy my sound system setup. You can talk about SQ all you want I dont care If dont like ported boxes it, I dont like them. leave it alone
This thread was started to solve a problem
STOP HIJACKING THIS THREAD
Open your own thread on whats better, ported, sealed 10s ,12s 18s, 55s, for all care and talk about it there
This thread was started to solve a problem
STOP HIJACKING THIS THREAD
Open your own thread on whats better, ported, sealed 10s ,12s 18s, 55s, for all care and talk about it there
Last edited by MrFluffy; 03-14-2009 at 11:34 PM.
03-14-2009, 11:33 PM
#37
Drifting
Ported can beat a sealed box in SQ any day. You just have to know what you are doing with the design. And the stupid myths that sealed is better for punchy bass, or 10"s are for tight bass and 18"s are for lows only is a crock of shit. Two 8"s can be louder than probably anyone on here, and an 18" can hit 75hz just as fast as your 12 in a sealed box.
If you are wanting SQ I wouldn't go with Kicker.... And especially Pioneer.
Ever think about other variations of ported boxes, like horns, bandpass, t-lines, ABC etc...?
If you are wanting SQ I wouldn't go with Kicker.... And especially Pioneer.
Ever think about other variations of ported boxes, like horns, bandpass, t-lines, ABC etc...?
03-14-2009, 11:35 PM
#38
Drifting
You guys are getting carried away I want Ideas on how to fix my sound system, with out changing everything in it because I like it exactly the way it is(Besides it cutting out). I never siad that ported boxes are the crapiest boxes the only thing siad was for my application I most enjoy my sound system setup. You can talk about SQ all you want I dont care If dont like ported boxes it, I dont like them. leave it alone
This thread was started to solve a problem
STOP HIJACKING THIS THREAD
Open your own thread on whats better, ported, sealed 10s ,12s 18s, 55s, for all care and talk about it there
This thread was started to solve a problem
STOP HIJACKING THIS THREAD
Open your own thread on whats better, ported, sealed 10s ,12s 18s, 55s, for all care and talk about it there
03-14-2009, 11:58 PM
#40
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how is change your box to a ported one
Get a HU
And all LOC are crap
A solution
One of my components is broken I belive it is the the LOC is that what you think and if no then what do you think if yes then do you know who makes a decent one and what kind I should B running
Get a HU
And all LOC are crap
A solution
One of my components is broken I belive it is the the LOC is that what you think and if no then what do you think if yes then do you know who makes a decent one and what kind I should B running