2000TL: replacing headunit/speakers/wires question
ok i have an alpine 9833 headunit and sps170a speakers coming to replace my stock stuff. i have a mono amp and sub already wired and plan on using the vdrive from the headunit to power the doors. i have a couple questions about some things:
1) is it worth it to replace the stock door speaker wires since im only putting 26w rms to the doors?
2) do i even need a wiring harness if i plan on replacing the stock door speaker wires?
3) should i use a distribution block or just stick 2 fused power lines on the battery?
thanks
1) is it worth it to replace the stock door speaker wires since im only putting 26w rms to the doors?
2) do i even need a wiring harness if i plan on replacing the stock door speaker wires?
3) should i use a distribution block or just stick 2 fused power lines on the battery?
thanks
1) I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of changing the wire, which makes 2) moot.
3) I would stick two fused lines on the battery (or the (+) feed to the fuse box under the hood), as long as it looks clean.
3) I would stick two fused lines on the battery (or the (+) feed to the fuse box under the hood), as long as it looks clean.
thanks for the advice. if i decided to amp the doors to 30 or 40w would stock wires be sufficient? i saw a thread i think with ou sig saying it was a great improvement but his system is a vast improvement over what i have in mind. just wondering what kinda wattage the stock lines become a bottleneck at.
as for the power lines i guess ill just strap the two fuse holders together and punch another wire thru the same grommet.
as for the power lines i guess ill just strap the two fuse holders together and punch another wire thru the same grommet.
Replacing the front speakers wires is a tremendous effort, but in my opinion worth it. I would hook everything up and see if you're happy with it. You can even run temporary wire just to hear the difference to see if it's worth the effort to you.
Using a harness and keeping the stock HU makes it a lot easier to go back when you decide to sell the car. (Although I didn't do either...)
I ran my power from the primary fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, then used the grommet by the gas petal to get inside the cabin.
Using a harness and keeping the stock HU makes it a lot easier to go back when you decide to sell the car. (Although I didn't do either...)
I ran my power from the primary fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, then used the grommet by the gas petal to get inside the cabin.
Originally Posted by DerrickM
Replacing the front speakers wires is a tremendous effort, but in my opinion worth it. I would hook everything up and see if you're happy with it. You can even run temporary wire just to hear the difference to see if it's worth the effort to you.
Using a harness and keeping the stock HU makes it a lot easier to go back when you decide to sell the car. (Although I didn't do either...)
I ran my power from the primary fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, then used the grommet by the gas petal to get inside the cabin.
Using a harness and keeping the stock HU makes it a lot easier to go back when you decide to sell the car. (Although I didn't do either...)
I ran my power from the primary fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, then used the grommet by the gas petal to get inside the cabin.
thanks for the info! i might test it with a separate larger wire and see if i can even tell. i think my ears are pretty suck so we'll go from there. i just needed to know if i should go get a harness or see if i could/should go an alternate route
derrickM. if i have a new headunit, mono amp and sub and just want to use the factory wiring to the door speakers, do i have to do anything to bypass the stock eq? im not really sure how its wired back there with the current stock setup.
i guess what im asking is does the stock setup work like this?
(headunit) -> (eq) -> (headunit) -> (all 4 doors) ALSO (amp) -> (sub)
i guess thats how im reading this from the stickied, but im really only concerned about the door speaker wiring of course.
i guess what im asking is does the stock setup work like this?
(headunit) -> (eq) -> (headunit) -> (all 4 doors) ALSO (amp) -> (sub)
Originally Posted by DerrickM
3. Bypassing factory eq
Preamp goes out from HU to Bose EQ and back (the summed output doesn't come
back).
Three signal wires (left, right, summed l+r) plus a common.
These leads can be cut and tapped to get preamp out to an aftermarket amp, or fed back
into the HU to use the HU amp an bypass the Bose EQ. Leaving the summed and
common leads will allow factory sub to continue to work.
Preamp goes out from HU to Bose EQ and back (the summed output doesn't come
back).
Three signal wires (left, right, summed l+r) plus a common.
These leads can be cut and tapped to get preamp out to an aftermarket amp, or fed back
into the HU to use the HU amp an bypass the Bose EQ. Leaving the summed and
common leads will allow factory sub to continue to work.
Last edited by shogun; Apr 8, 2005 at 10:50 AM.
Yes, you're correct. The speaker wires in the main harness go straight to the speakers without hitting the EQ. The EQ is a loop from the HU back to the HU.
Although that's not true for the OEM sub amp--it gets its input from the Bose EQ.
So, replacing the factory HU automatically bypasses the Bose EQ (on the 2nd gen TL).
Although that's not true for the OEM sub amp--it gets its input from the Bose EQ.
So, replacing the factory HU automatically bypasses the Bose EQ (on the 2nd gen TL).
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