Key Fob
#1
Key Fob
Has anyone had a problem with key fobs not working? My fobs have stopped working numerous times. The fobs have a burnt plastic smell. I am unable to unlock or start car with the fobs. I have brought it to the dealership numerous times and they have not found the problem. The dealership is not looking into the root cause. They are insinuating I or someone is doing something to them. It is costing approximately $400 per fob to replace and reprogram. Can someone please help?
#2
Family Hauler
Is this for both of your key fobs? I haven’t had any issues nor have I read of any other issues. Anything other info you can share? Where do you store them, how long they last, etc?
#4
My guess is they are stored to close to the vehicle and it sees them so they are communicating with the vehicle often to drain the remote batteries real quick. Move them further from the current location for a while to do a test.
#6
Instructor
From your note it appears that both fobs are in close proximity to each other, perhaps even touching. Have to tried keeping them apart?
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#8
Instructor
A "next step" might be to check the voltage of the battery in the fob after it stops working. If the battery is spent (voltage now too low) then something or someone is "communicating" with the fob. Another possible sign is if the fob seems warm to the touch since you mentioned the "burnt smell".
#9
That’s a very strange behavior that you’re experiencing with your key fobs. Do you know what your dealer did to diagnose your complaint?
The burning smell seems concerning and a potential fire hazard so that seems like a huge liability on their part if they didn’t do perform a proper inspection. Maybe stating that you feel it’s a potential fire hazard will potentially escalate the severity of the problem?
How old are the key fobs? Is this something new? I wonder if it’s a defect in the circuitry given the burning smell.
The burning smell seems concerning and a potential fire hazard so that seems like a huge liability on their part if they didn’t do perform a proper inspection. Maybe stating that you feel it’s a potential fire hazard will potentially escalate the severity of the problem?
How old are the key fobs? Is this something new? I wonder if it’s a defect in the circuitry given the burning smell.
#10
I have had my fob not respond when I had another fob from another car maker in the same pocket. Interference maybe?
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Tesla1856 (07-17-2022)
#11
Burning Brakes
This is interesting ... which model do you have?
Models with Remote Engine Start System
NOTICE:
The Remote transmitter is equipped with two
batteries: A standard replaceable CR2032 coin
button battery and an integral non-replaceable
rechargeable battery. To prevent permanent damage
to the rechargeable battery, replace the CR2032
battery every three to four years.
It looks like both models of FOBs use a CR2032 (like our Audis).
From my notes:
Replaced in both (Driver-1 and Driver-2) FOBs with Duracell Alkaline CR2032-3v
- Voltage when new 3.25 volts.
Old batteries were both 2.99 volts (with voltmeter, but with "no load on it" of course)
I kinda doubt voltage under the load of running the fob is near that.
Easy to replace. Did both FOB's for this vehicle. Did not have to re-program/re-link.
Will see if it helps (it did).
Batteries end-up only lasting about 1.5 years.
I wonder if FOBs being stored only about 15ft away from vehicle (inside on counter) makes a difference
(like it ends up being close, so maybe always generating new fresh codes to un-lock car if needed).
If hard to get apart ... a tiny-bit of silicone grease on the battery-tray's side rails (NOT near PCB or battery) might help getting it apart next tine (in 1.5 years).
Models with Remote Engine Start System
NOTICE:
The Remote transmitter is equipped with two
batteries: A standard replaceable CR2032 coin
button battery and an integral non-replaceable
rechargeable battery. To prevent permanent damage
to the rechargeable battery, replace the CR2032
battery every three to four years.
It looks like both models of FOBs use a CR2032 (like our Audis).
From my notes:
Replaced in both (Driver-1 and Driver-2) FOBs with Duracell Alkaline CR2032-3v
- Voltage when new 3.25 volts.
Old batteries were both 2.99 volts (with voltmeter, but with "no load on it" of course)
I kinda doubt voltage under the load of running the fob is near that.
Easy to replace. Did both FOB's for this vehicle. Did not have to re-program/re-link.
Will see if it helps (it did).
Batteries end-up only lasting about 1.5 years.
I wonder if FOBs being stored only about 15ft away from vehicle (inside on counter) makes a difference
(like it ends up being close, so maybe always generating new fresh codes to un-lock car if needed).
If hard to get apart ... a tiny-bit of silicone grease on the battery-tray's side rails (NOT near PCB or battery) might help getting it apart next tine (in 1.5 years).
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