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I have a 21 Aspec that seems to be getting warped rotors at about 36K miles. I’ve decided since I live in the mountains and drive hard that I want to upgrade to the type S Brembo rotors and my dealership will install them for $250 and even warranty them.
My question is should I go with factory pads and rotors or drilled/slotted or two piece rotors? I want low dust so prefer ceramic pads but am stuck on rotor choices. Thanks in advance.
My 2 cents - go with solid rotors from a reputable company like Braking. All rotors are made in China now, it's just a degree of quality control. I have drilled and slotted on another car because towing a trailer in the mountains so I wanted max performance. They transmit noise and vibration into the cabin and that's probably not something you want on a DD. Also, holes and slots take away from the thermal mass of the rotor so they might warp faster in the end. Solid rotors and retorque your front lug nuts every couple months and you should be good.
Thanks. I had drilled and slotted on my TSX for years and loved them- the sound you mentioned was only under hard braking so I didn’t mind esp since I’m always listening to music anyway. What are your thoughts on the two piece rotors? Some say it’s a waste of money while others seem to feel a difference in un sprung weight. Either way even with the factory type s setup I should get better stopping distances with a smaller engine and less weight to the car itself.
the type s rotors are prone to warping as well, and the stock pads are confusingly wasteful with the pad surface area. Racing brake setup seems nice but wont be cheap. Depends how much you want to spend!
the type s rotors are prone to warping as well, and the stock pads are confusingly wasteful with the pad surface area. Racing brake setup seems nice but wont be cheap. Depends how much you want to spend!
Thanks! Paragon makes a nice 2 piece but they are $900 and a lot of people say that’s overkill for a car I don’t track but just drive hard.
I found these last night and they look good and are made in the USA surprisingly. Drilled and slotted setups like this have been great on many of my previous cars but I don’t know a lot about this company.
Damn way to scope creep yourself... Just keep it simple and do the Brembo install from factory for now, Then if you outgrow those, you can move on to the 2piece and beyond.
lol I know. The cheaper one piece I just found don’t have directional veins or I’d have already ordered them. I just don’t want to waste money if I’m going to want 2 piece or a better design than factory. The factory pads don’t even have full surface coverage and the factory rotors for the Type S also suck apparently. That’s why I’m doing the factory Brembo calipers but with *hopefully* better rotors and pads than stock.
I have an A Spec TLX but upgrade to the OEM Type S Brake conversion. I called up GiroDisc and they did a front 2 piece rotors for my TLX.
Then I found Paragon Performance Brake which was locally to me in Los Angeles. I was able to talk to them and I provide them a set of base TLX and the Type S rotors for them to do measurements for them to do a 2 piece rotors.
I have an A Spec TLX but upgrade to the OEM Type S Brake conversion. I called up GiroDisc and they did a front 2 piece rotors for my TLX.
Then I found Paragon Performance Brake which was locally to me in Los Angeles. I was able to talk to them and I provide them a set of base TLX and the Type S rotors for them to do measurements for them to do a 2 piece rotors.
Im in the process of getting carbon ceramic brakes for the front and 2 pc for the rear. Stock type s rotors are like 26 pounds so I should shave around 13 pounds or so on the rotors, another 10 from my custom forged wheels. Rear rotors will only save me 1-2 pounds combined with the wheels another 11-12 total. Shedding about 70 pounds just on wheels and brakes this summer.
Thanks. How much of an improvement is the upgrade to Brembo’s?
Upgrade from the base TLX brake set up to the Type S Brake conversion makes a great improvement on braking response. Even before I did the 2 piece rotor conversion, the stock Type S rotors grab a lot better since the TLX is like over 3700 lbs which is quite heavy for its size.
I have a 21 Advanced. Would the Type S braking set up (rotors, calipers) bolt right on to mine or is some custom work needed to make it fit? Just looking for a bit better performance over stock.
I have a 21 Advanced. Would the Type S braking set up (rotors, calipers) bolt right on to mine or is some custom work needed to make it fit? Just looking for a bit better performance over stock.
It's direct bolt on without modification. But you do need to buy a list of item which cost about $1000 or so depending on what online Acura part website you buy from.
here is the parts you need
It's direct bolt on without modification. But you do need to buy a list of item which cost about $1000 or so depending on what online Acura part website you buy from.
here is the parts you need
It's direct bolt on without modification. But you do need to buy a list of item which cost about $1000 or so depending on what online Acura part website you buy from.
here is the parts you need
my mechanic said I’ll also need new bearings since you have to pull them to swap in larger dust shields.
Not sure about the bearings. But for the base dust shield you need to trim it for larger rotor if you are not going to buy the dust shield from the Type S
I’ve been on the Racing Brake front and rear pads/rotors for 2 years now with zero vibrations. Pads can make noise from time to time although it is not obnoxious and I will much rather have that then a shaking steering wheel any day of the week especially when looking at the performance aspect of things. Link for the rotors/pads here: https://racingbrake.com/2021-gen-2/
my mechanic said I’ll also need new bearings since you have to pull them to swap in larger dust shields.
you can reuse bearings if you wanna do shield swap or just trim the shield to accommodate the larger rotors, I’ve done it both ways. Oem aspec shield Oem aspec shield trimmed
Got these coming in a week or so. rear 2 pc (11.81 pounds) are just about the exact same weight as the stocks(11.9 lb) . The front carbon ceramic brakes are 12.8 lb compared to stock 25.7 lb. Thats 12.9 lb savings per front rotor. Couple that with my custom forged Al wheels (21.8 lb per wheel) vs stock roughly 32 lb each.
Cutting about 23-24 pounds off each front wheel and 10-11 off each rear wheel. 66-68 pounds total unsprung savings.
Got these coming in a week or so. rear 2 pc (11.81 pounds) are just about the exact same weight as the stocks(11.9 lb) . The front carbon ceramic brakes are 12.8 lb compared to stock 25.7 lb. Thats 12.9 lb savings per front rotor. Couple that with my custom forged Al wheels (21.8 lb per wheel) vs stock roughly 32 lb each.
Cutting about 23-24 pounds off each front wheel and 10-11 off each rear wheel. 66-68 pounds total unsprung savings.
Whats the brand of parts that you're using for this swap? Also if its ok to inquire, how much did this set you back $$$ wise?
Whats the long term wear / service life expectations from the ceramic fronts, under say normal driving conditions to say 'spirited' driving conditions?
Like this set up alot. I have the performance wheel/ tire from Acura, with a set of Continentals instead of the stockers and am looking at doing something similar to my Type-S.
price per pound lost in rotational mass is pretty damn good.
Very possibly. Not sure what you paid for 4 new wheels, rotors, and pads but I'm guessing it wasn't a blue light special. That still doesn't address the heat issue. Those ceramics like to be hot to work properly. Usually for track duty. Are you planning on autocrossing it? Had a set myself and they would grind and squeal until you put some temperature in them, but when you did whoah nelly!
Very possibly. Not sure what you paid for 4 new wheels, rotors, and pads but I'm guessing it wasn't a blue light special. That still doesn't address the heat issue. Those ceramics like to be hot to work properly. Usually for track duty. Are you planning on autocrossing it? Had a set myself and they would grind and squeal until you put some temperature in them, but when you did whoah nelly!
not tracking just daily driving "spiritfully"
I spent all together about $5k BUT I have an inside connection because I own an HVAC company and I do work at a manufacturer that just happens to supply brakes/wheels for some pretty big name companies. NDA
It's direct bolt on without modification. But you do need to buy a list of item which cost about $1000 or so depending on what online Acura part website you buy from.
here is the parts you need
